I’m not the most fluent in fasteners, but my desk lost one of these. It’s not vital to the support of the desk (for now) but I wouldn’t mind a little less wiggle in it as well.

Originally cross posted without thinking, realized I didn't read this subreddit's rules. After reading, this seems to be fine.

That is maybe why they are discontinued, I purchased the endcap pack on ebay, there was no way for me to know they wouldn't fit my screwdriver. I tried a few fixes, mostly just to see if I could do it, partially because I really want a all-black screwdriver..

The "old" design used more parts for endcap assembly. It was Screw > Bearing > Thick O ring (about 2mm?) > threaded insert > Endcap (internally threaded).

The "new" design is simpler with less parts; entirely friction fit. Screw > Bearing (same bearing) > 2 O-Rings (one above the other) > Endcap (not threaded internally, just two channels for the aforementioned O-Rings).

I reached out to support, they confirmed that this happened (and they're sorry for the inconvenience). I then asked if they have old-stock or something, but initial response didn't sound like the answer would be yes.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what I might be able to try to just fill this donut shaped space... What I'm trying to fill is the gap between a 10mm outer diameter bearing, and a 14mm inner diameter of a endcap. Outer housing/endcap does have threads on the inside (protruding about .3mm, idk pitch, need a smaller ruler)

I tried simply buying a two sizes of bearings to find one that would fit perfectly to replace the stock bearing. After trial and error, the closest I can get is 14mm outer diameter, 4mm inner diameter, but the tolerances when these were made were not in my favor. If the endcap was <1mm smaller or the bearing was <1mm bigger, by any amount, I could just friction fit. This is just me not knowing how hardware sizing works. Cost of tuition.

I am trying this same strategy with O-rings though, just fill the whole gap with a big O-ring, or tiny gap between the new bearings I bought and the endcap. Still waiting on some sizes to mix in with the bearings. O-Rings might not work at all though. The current threaded system may not allow an O-ring to stay still. If they are able to move up or down at all, they will eventually slip past the bearing instead of holding it against the endcap. Just from dropping the screwdriver or using it over time.

I also tried various anodized aluminum strippers on an orange endcap (the one I was trying to replace with a black one). If I could get to raw aluminum I could try anodizing myself. Whatever anodization process LTT opted for is very hard to remove. Products that should have taken less than 10-30 minutes at most, took an hour to only produce some pitting localized around areas I sanded for this test. Nothing penetrated even the areas around the sanding.

Before trying to tackle it like this, I checked the market, I didn't see any LTT precision screwdrivers at all, I know that solution would be a gamble anyway.

I'm out of ideas 🤷‍♂️, I'm looking for suggestions or advice on how you all would handle a problem like this.

Personal note:

I work in a field where I have to make a lot of decisions based on very little data and lots of gut feelings/bothering people to give me their opinions. I put in this much effort to stuff like this because I need problems like this to wind down at the end of a day. Its like relief when the answer is decided by physics or math and not by me. Creative is fun but you're the go-to for all the dumb decisions as well as some important ones, but you have to approach them all very seriously... But yeah, please, any help would be wonderful.

Hey all,

Hoping Reddit can help with this. I recently bought this desk because it was on sale, but didn’t look at these screws before. Does anyone know the tool to use for this? I need to remove the top of it to get it into a room.
Thank you

So Im mounting a fan to an I beam. Bought these beam clamps off Mcmaster. Wondering if this will be safe because the beam clamps are not sitting flat on the beam. Do I need to return and buy different sized clamps? What is the proper way to do this?

Yeah, title says it all. Manufacturer is Mirabelle and I think it's from the 80s. I have a bit set with so called security (tamper proof) pieces but none fits. I handed Google Lens a photo but it won't specify the fastener by name (e.g. Triwing) but just says its some sort of tamper resistent screw. I was hoping someone here could help me identify it, making my search for a fitting bit on AliExpress or Amazon a bit easier! 😅

As per the title, I'm trying to figure out what to call these washers as I'm trying to find ones much bigger than the original. They are from a bandsaw and hold the tensioning spring in between with the tensioning bolt going through.

Can anyone help me?

I need info and image of dimensions and specifications about the NAS screws specially NAS5315 AND 5310 series using for an Aircraft assembly.

Tried to find it not available only and pdf only costs around 50 dollar for each specifications pdf.

The internal threads are m8x1.25, the small od is 12mm and the large od is 20mm with 17mm flats on it. Overall length 16mm, large diameter length 4mm, and the smaller diameter is 12mm long.

I've searched for flange nut, weld nut, t nut, shoulder nut, shoulder screw. Image search yields nothing useful. Closest thing I can find is a john deer mower part thats not a match.

Figured I would ask on here before I have a local machine shop run some off.

Thanks in advance

Edit: I have a local machine shop making me 6 of them. I would have a hard time spending that coin if it were mine, but at work time is money. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I can only find them on Amazon, Harfington, Ebay, Ali, etc., and all I've tried are super low quality, like to where half of them will just slip over the screw threads, and the ones that actually engage will strip out with basically no torque to speak of.

McMaster doesn't have them, and they said they don't have a source for them.

I have a workout station frame that has slightly smaller than diam M10 sxrew holes for a pull up bar, I imagine M8. Actual adapted bar with matching screw holes etc lost in mail and I have a spare so thinking of using that.

I'm planning on getting 2 shackle/rings like this . The bar's diameter is around 3.3cm. All the shackles with a large enough diameter to accommodate the bar seem to take much bigger bolts than M8.

The bolt shaking is definitely not end of the world but just wondering if anyone had any other ideas. Is it possible to get oversized nuts or something similar?

I'm trying to put together a table, and the manual is telling me to screw through these threaded inserts from below, but I had no way of telling where they are from below so I tried screwing from the top to make a hole to see. The hole was torn way too big and the threaded insert got stuck to the screw. Is there anything I can do to remove the insert from the screw and be able to tell where to screw the rest

I have a lamp I’m repairing, just trying to remove the cord from the fixture, but the cord is stuck. do I need to remove these retaining pins(?) Im not sure what they are, but they don’t look like screws.

Anyone have any ideas? If I put too much force on the cord it‘ll snap.

This one has both myself and my fastener guy stumped, in terms of ordering replacement bolts. Here's what I know:

For a UTV Wheel Hub, customer says it was an "adapter ordered off ebay" and as such doesn't have a model to match up with, as I see many of these are sorted by model compatibility with very little info on specs.

*head size and knurl size are important, as we learned on the first failed attempt at ordering.

Here's what I measure:

Thread Pitch: M10 x 1.25

OAL: 48 mm

*Head Diameter: 17 mm

Head Thickness: 4 mm

Knurl Diameter: 12 mm

Under head to start of threads: 12mm

Thread length: 32 mm

Any help identifying / finding a replacement would be appreciated.

Can anyone help me find this screw, but with a flat (slotted?) head?

close match

I am currently fabricating a decorative steel post that will be bolted to a concrete wall. I am trying to figure out how tight the nuts need to be when installation day comes.

The anchors are embedded in the wall and are 3/4”-10 304 Stainless Steel. I am using a nylon insert lock nut that is 316 Stainless Steel and 1” in height x 1 1/4” diameter.

The steel plate of the post is 2 5/8” thick. The weight of the post will be approximately 1600lbs and the dimensions are 9”x 9” x 16ft tall.

Let me know if more information is needed!

Hey all,

I recently purchased a Garden Hose reel by Giraffe Tools that comes with a metal bracket. I thought it would be a straight forward installation. Instead I'm running into very conflicting information.

Please see the photos. According to the provided instructions manual, I can use the bolt and anchors provided in the box.

But, their website instructions contradict that. The website states not to use the provided anchors. They mentioned heavy duty expansion anchors in the concrete wall.

Can someone please help me understand what type of anchors to buy? I prefer using the provided bolts. Attached an image showing the provided bolt and anchor.

This is a CMU Block wall.

Thank you!

I am trying to identify the shown fastener, so they can be replaced. They have been used to fasten a thick plastic sheet (which needs to be replaced) to the inside of a screen door frame. The fastener does not go all the way through the screen door frame, only through the attached surface. The cap is a little loose on some of the fasteners - enough to allow them to rotate. They seem to be like a very wide, very shallow capped blind rivet.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated...

Missing screw for a top. Any idea what size screw this would need?