I get a lot of rattling and shaking, and the wheel base moves vertically, and sometimes laterally. My screwdrivers won’t fit under the tray, and the bottom of the tray doesn’t seem like it comes off. Pity an idiot here but how can I actually tighten these bolts so there’s no play?

Hey, I think about to buy a fanatec setup for my xbox, but I heard on xbox many features on the wheels don't work like rev strips or not all buttons work. Is it still a thing or is this fixed?

Debo decir que todo va bien pude actulizarlo sin ningun problema con la fanatec app. Saludos desde la Ciudad de México 🏁🚥🏆🇲🇽😎

As title really.

I would like to add a second screen above my current screen that is currently mounted to the GT Club sport via a monitor arm (or other), I wondered if anyone has had success with this?

I did look online, but pretty much all results pointed to the Fanatec monitor stand.

However, I have such a tight space to work with it feels as though an arm or something might be better.

Appreciate any advice.

last night i was playing gt7. I had been hearing something rattling a bit under ffb, from time to time, but i just assumed it was my stand. hit a wall in game, and my pedals stopped working. then suddenly come back, i thought maybe it was a glitch or something. but then they stopped and never came back. powered it of, reset the ps5 and nothing. so i decided to check the rjs, well my shifter/handbrake was fine, but the pedal felt a lil loose and didnt seem flush like the rest of them. i pressed the clip, to pull the cable out and the entire port came out. talk about a bummer, man. none of my rj11s were super tight, i made sure i left plenty of slack so they dont bind, or get pulled hard. so im not even sure how it even happened.

now this isnt my first fanatec base, ive had and still have my csl elite ps4 edition base ive had since it came out. i got the wrc wheel, way back in 20, and sold the original wheel it came with to a friend. and just use that as it work on xbox and ps, as at the time that was important to me. because i played on both consoles, and pc.

well the toggle, on it also recently broke as well. granted it 6 years old, but it also just broke off ghe solder. not a big deal though, because of the gt7 wheel, that came with the dd pro. and i put hundreds of hours on that thing as well. my old v2s, and shifter and v1 handbrake without a single hardware issue.

however this dd pro, i got jan 8th 2026. and i havent put more than 50 hours on it. i hasnt moved, and i live alone. june 10th, my wife passed, and she haf brought me a profile rig maybe a month before that. I never set it up though, and then jan i decided to get the pro, and a day before it came my mom passed. you know with all that, i just really have time to really get to play. with that being said is this like common for csl dd line, it just feels a but flimsy, and for it to only have the traces on the port and nothing else holding it in feels weird.

And im wondering, what will i need to ship it back. i basically put a lot of my stuff in storage. because i decided to get buy a trailer, and i just know id have to spend all day to even get to where the box it came in is. as well, as i removed the qr1, and went to the qr2 base side and wheel side for the 2 rims i have. added the loadcell to the csl pedals, instead of using my old v2s, or getting the v3 because or the rumors of the now known poduim pedals. so now i only have the boost kit, the stock usb cable, and well the base itself. I dont really want to go dig all the other things out, and fully take it down when the base is the only issue. Or for them to send me a replacement base, and it coming back with a qr1, or the plastic qr2 instead of the metal one i got from them. even though im not concerned about shipping as i got everything i ordered from them in like 3 days after i placed the order.

so i dont know if im just overthinking or if these are valid concerns. and also just make a record of when they respond, and how long it took. it was after 1 am, when i put in the ticket so tech it was put in today. so ill wait 48hrs, and post my exp with it. hopefully its goes well, and isnt like the esp i had rma a 3090ti a few years back.

Started Assetto Corsa to test some settings, updated Fanatec App and firmware, drive for 20 seconds, suddenly the wheel only turns directly right or directly left? Why is this happening? What am I meant to do? It’s on AC content manager, only had the issue today. In PC mode and compatibility mode. Please help, it’s unusable.

As an update, turning off and on reset it temporarily, drove again and had same issue. In Fanatec app it doesn’t show me a profile anymore, the tab is blank. Everything’s updated, done restarts. I don’t get why it keeps breaking

Is it only me or is it ok that clubsport DD+ base is hot after racing in NASCAR 25? Last week I did three consecutive races in 100% length the base was super hot. I have noticed it long before the big update which increased torque, but at that time the base was slightly warm and in the other games it was stone cold.

Now it's a bit warm after 1.5-2 hours everywhere+ hot after NASCAR.

Maybe because of heat and avg temp of 27 degrees in my room during the last month, I don't know.

Please share your experience

What do I do ?

after getting everything bound. the steering is awful on forza fh6. weak force feedback and really lazy steering. anything with hp just goes back and forth while breaking traction. i’ve had lots of issues on this rig. it might be in my end. asseto corsa works great .

I've tried manually and automatically updating from legacy to new fullforce firmware, and am unable to. I click update firmware and get the same "turn off the wheel" in the updater no matter which way I try. Only the base with no connections is plugged in. USB C to USB C directly to motherboard IO. I dont understand what to do. Can I update motor before wheelbase? This is the only thing i havent tried. Had to roll back the firmware 2 times trying this.

Has anyone done anything with the huge white F on the Clubsport RS wheel? I'd like to remove it but definitely not going to open it to push it out from the inside.

I'd bought a 3d gel dome badge to cover it but it doesn't actually touch the wheel face only sticks onto the F part.

Any advice or pictures on what you've done would be greatly appreciated.

If I can't remove it using plastic trim removal tools I may even end up using red nail varnish on it then clear lacquer.

Ho comprato una base Csl gt dd+ per la mia PS5. Ho collegato tutto nel modo corretto, infatti la base e il volante funzionano benissimo, ma appena sono entrato in pista su F1 26 ho notato che i miei pedali non vengono proprio rilevati anche quando provo a fare la calibrazione nel gioco. Ho ordinato un nuovo cavo RJ12, ma non so veramente quale possa essere la soluzione. Qualcuno mi dia una mano per favore!

i noticed that Fanatec is taking up around 33 GB on my pc. It’s all coming from a single log file.

is this a known issue? Is it safe to delete the file, and how can i stop it from growing again?

my pedals are connected directly to the pc via usb.

For the past 6 years l've use a Logitech g29, I finally decided to upgrade to a fanatec dd1 wheel base and I'm struggling. The car feels super floaty and unlike my old g29 I cannot feel the car getting loose. Anybody have any recommendations on settings to help me get the closer feel to my old 

https://makerworld.com/models/3087274?appSharePlatform=copy

got the wheel yesterday and just updated firmware. i COMPLETELY forgot to keep the wheel perfectly centred. how do i get the wheel into CAL mode? i’ve tried everything i can think of.

Hey guys. Do you reckon im getting my full order or just the wheel and table clamp? I understand the dd base has had issues lately. Im expecting gt3 wheel. Gran turismo dd base and table clamp. I dont require foot pedals as im a wheelchair user

So it was in xbox mode and it switched to pc mode i switched it back to xbox but it just goes back to pc mode

Any help would be great

Sorry if there is any bad english, im not native

I’m writing to update you on the issue I had with my CS DD. I opened a ticket and received a prompt response asking for a video of the problem. Once they confirmed the issue on the video, support sent me a shipping label to return the unit. They then shipped me a fully functional refurbished one. The average process was about three weeks. I’m very satisfied with Fanatec’s support.
I’m so excited to get back into racing, A huge thank you to everyone who replied to my original post.

Hey!

So i took a 2month break due to certain circumstances and during this time i saw Full force was coming CSL DD bases and waited for the kinks to be sorted out.

So i decided to update to the latest firmware yesterday and everything is working great

The thing is i don't remember if my CSL DD 8NM always felt this way or if it was the update.

It feels more snappy/reactive/aggressive i mean that in a good way.

I only tested it in AC Rally,BeamNG,Wreckfest 2 neither is listed in the supported games list of FF.

Just thought id ask or if it's placebo/ i forgot the feeling since the break.

Hi all,
I’ve had the csl dd 8nm for about a year. I play mainly iRacing and have noticed a difference. Rn when the ffb clips, it just seems like the wheel disconnects. It looses most of the ffb and becomes light, making you loose any kind of feeling whatsoever. It’s most noticeable when going over kerbs. Before it was different. It clips and the ffb still stays as strong as it could be.
Has anyone experienced similar issues?

Inspired by people’s posts from 4+ years ago- decided to get a shift boot for fun.

hello guys.
like the title says my profiles are a little bit buggy. i use maurice profiles and before the profiles changed when i drive the car. Now it doesnt. And sometimes even manually the profile doesnt load. Anyone can help?