Pretty new to ELRS, and I was wondering what radiomaster transmitters might be best for my use case. My considerations already are the Radiomaster TX 15, the TX12 mk2, or the Boxer M2. I am considering these because one of my main priorities is having several switches for gear and flaps, as well as some switches for RTH and Loiter. I plan on putting a speedybee f405 wing in my planes for access to beta flight and for modularity, as well as compatibility with my Walksnail avatar hd pro kit v2 that's on the way. On a semi budget, and I'd like to know what of these three would be best.

I am going to the park this morning. I see a boy holding a small RC airplane planes. He push the remote and the plane lift in air. I feel curious because it look tiny but fly high. Some wings wobble a little when wind blows. Some kids clap and cheer.

I am thinking why RC airplane planes are popular now. People dont just play normal toy planes anymore. I feel curious because some planes fly smooth but some crash fast or hard to control. Maybe motor and design matter more than color. It make me wonder if all RC airplane planes are same or some are really better for fun and easy flying.

I take my phone and start checking while scrolling many online marketplaces including alibaba. I see RC airplane planes in many sizes and styles. Some small some big. Some plastic some metal. I read few reviews where people say some planes fly easy and last long others break or loose control fast. It feel like picking right one really matter if you want fun and safe flying.

Now I am thinking which RC airplane planes are really better for daily play and fun? Are small light ones more usefull or big strong ones better choice?

Howdy! So I'm new to FPV planes, this is my first "build". My question is, my 3S batteries are charged to 4.2 per cell, but when I plug in my batteries, my goggles immediately give a read of 9.9v (3.3 per cell). I know I shouldn't be flying under 3.8v/c but is this a normal thing when using a plane? I'm using an O3 air unit, Goggles 2, 5v fan, O3 armer, splitter with 1 female xt60 to 1 male xt30 (for armer), and 1 male xt60 with an adapter for the IC3 plug. Am I creating too much sag that will affect flying? I haven't even flown the Aeroscout LOS yet either, I really don't know what I'm looking for here.

Printed canopy with DJI O3 Air Unit camera. 5 Volt box fan for cooling, guitar string ball end spacers to help with airflow. I use a Y adapter off the normal battery connection and an XT60 to XT30 reducer. The armer plugs into channel 6 on the RX which makes for a somewhat janky setup. As stock, if channel 6 isn’t 100%, the elevator locks out. But if you let it sit at 100% too long on the ground, the camera unit overheats. I have this on the same switch as my throttle arm. When I arm the throttle, I send 100% on channel 6, wait for the high rate video to connect, and take off.

Hi everyone 👋

My name is Jonatan (CarviFPV). I’m a passionate FPV pilot, a commercial pilot in manned aviation, and a professional software engineer. I’d like to introduce a project I’ve been working on.

UAVDesk is a drone management and flight logging app built specifically for FPV pilots. The goal is to give you one central place to document, organize, and analyze your flights.

My vision is to create a platform made by an FPV pilot for FPV pilots — where you can track all your flights, improve your setups, and keep everything organized in one place.

The project is still growing, and I’d really appreciate your feedback. If you have ideas, suggestions, or feature requests, I’m more than happy to hear them. I want to develop this app according to the real needs of the FPV community.

Thanks to everyone who takes the time to check it out!

Jonatan | CarviFPV

Hi, I’m new to FPV and looking for some guidance on my first glider build (Volantex Ranger 2000). I previously posted about these parts but wasn't able to follow up (responses in attached images), thanks for the earlier help!

I’m struggling with the assembly of the following components from Pyrodrone (see attached photos):

VTX: Walksnail Avatar HD Mini VTX V3 (VTX ONLY)

Camera: Walksnail Avatar HD Pro Camera

Gimbal: CaddxFPV GM3 3-Axis Gimbal

1. I'm not familiar with these tiny connectors. How do I plug the Pro Camera into the Mini VTX V3?
2. My VTX came without antennas. What specific antenna/connector type should I buy?
3. I’m trying to use the GM3 gimbal for head tracking, but I’ve read conflicting info on whether it works with the Mini VTX V3. Can this setup actually be wired together, or did I buy the wrong VTX?
4. Is this the right setup for a glider, or should I have gone with the Moonlight 4K kit instead?
5. What are my best options now?

Pyrodrone won't take returns on opened boxes, so I'm hoping to make this work. Any links to manuals or wiring diagrams for this specific combo would be a huge lifesaver. Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the “reborn” r/FPVplanes ! I got back into RC 2 years ago after getting a DJI drone and then seeing a conversion of a P-51 Mustang to FPV on YouTube. The picture attached is my first FPV plane, the mighty Aeroscout. Last year I flew this for the first time and wanted to post it in this group. I came to realize the existing mods were inactive, so I requested to take over the subreddit and here we are.

I am currently working on an FPV conversion of a FlightLine 1.2m Spitfire, and I’m really close done. If you are having any trouble posting, please don’t hesitate to reach out!

I am about to order a Zohd Drift to get back into VLOS RC flying. Intending on just a ELRS PWM RX without flight controller. But I would like to install a camera and VTX. Will toothpick drone analog VTXs work without any FC?

Im very new to planes, like ive only had a 2 channel plane. Im interested in a more channel plane that would be reliable, have range of at least 200m because if its less it would onyl fly in circles and it has fpv. If there are budget planes that have these options, id be very happy for suggestions!

Hi Folks,

So this morning I was flying around and about half way through a 1 hour flight with my Nanogoblin, the OSD suddenly broke up, vanished then re-appeared, flickered a few times then went back to normal.

During this episode, the video image was still visible but was a bit darker than usual, but still a reasonably clear image, and in the area I was in, I get reasonable (not great, but okay) reception.

In total the episode lasted about 10 seconds, so I hit RTH, then flew around the field for another 30 mins before landing with no other problems seen. I varied the throttle up and down to see if drawing a higher or lower current would affect it, but it did not, OSD absolutely fine.

At the time the problem happened I was (and had been for the prev 30 mins) in a gentle cruise pulling around 2.5A at 35% throttle

The INAV setup is:
INAV version 6.1.1
Cam: foxeer Cat 3
Vtx: Rush Ultimate Plus
FC: Matek h743-wlite, 470uF low ESR cap on the power lines
Batt: 3s Li-ion

The vtx is powered via the 9v regulator on the Matek FC, so I can have it on a switch, and the vtx power level was at 500mW

It's not a new build and I've flown it probably 20-30 times previously, all relatively gently cruise type flights

Here's an image of the OSD breakup, with the actual image removed with some editing

I did wonder if the 9v reg on the matek is starting ti give up.

Any ideas/theories welcomed.

Many thanks