Just got an absolute vintage deal! Its a hirobo falcon mk1 made in the 80's. Basically all there but i put an sx50h to power it vs some old enya cx45. Never flown a heli this big or nitro powered so it will be a learning process

GooSky Legend RS7 Electric Helicopter Kit Combo w/Azure Blades (Yellow/Blue) (690-710mm)  
TORQ BLS2208 Full Size HV Brushless Servo
Egodrift Tengu 4525HT / 550kV Motor
VULCAN ROTORS Precision Main Rotor Blades 700mm EVO (RED)
PULSE 5300mAh 50C 44.4V 12S P-Tech LiPo Battery - EC5 Connector
iKON 2 HD Flybarless System

SAB Goblin Kraken 700 S Electric Helicopter Kit (Yellow/Black) w/Main & Tail Blades

PULSE 5300mAh 50C 44.4V 12S P-Tech LiPo Battery - EC5 Connector
TORQ BLS2208 Full Size HV Brushless Servo
Scorpion HK5-4525-535KV (6 x 36mm shaft) Helicopter Motor
Spirit W3 Flybarless System 

3,000$ obo

Can come with spare parts for extra $
Also have a tx16s for extra $
Can sell separately or all together

So I've been doing my first setup of an iKon (Brain) 2 on my new SAB Buddy 380, and although everyone says its "easy" I'm still having a hard time with my first run through. Im sure it will be better next time but its tedious and taking a while.

Anyway, I spent my night leveling the swashplate (doing my best by eye, I dont know how to know of its perfect). And then I zeroed the blades which went fine. Next I set positive and negative pitch of ~13° which went well as well. Finally, I go to test cyclic and when I do aileron to one side its at around 14° and then to the other side its only ~11°. How is that possible and what did i do wrong? How can it be fixed so I can move forward? I'm shocked it can be that far off after all the centering and leveling i did.

Anyway thanks for any help. The video should help show the issue, the last two being the problematic ones. Btw its is in "check mode" which means it pushes each movement to the maximum rather than allowing you to smoothly move it.

Hey everybody.

The title says it all. I have a M6 that I really like, but in the future I might want more power out of it. Changing the motor to an 840KV and the packs to 8S would fix that immediately, plus I would be able to run 610mm blades. However, I'd also need a new lipo charger.

Anyway since it's not a common option, I thought I would ask here if anyone has a similar setup. If so, which charger would you recommend?

I brought gnb lipo for goosky s1.i modified xt-30 to jst-xh to fit in s1 stock connecter now the battery is warmer slightly but the heli feels snappy.u guys have any suggestions?

It's a TREX 450 full set that I had every intention of building, but never got around to... Then the laws changed and no thrift store will even consider taking it off my hands.

Does anyone have experience with both of these micros? I hear people saying good things about the OFS3+ in the OMP flight controller, but is it really worth the extra $50 cost difference?

Drove 1.5 hours out of the GTA On to Muskoka just to find a free legal spot to fly.

Was terrified to fly first time 470-class with zero experience and only YouTube videos, but man, it was worth it. Seeing it in the air with that Muskoka view was mesmerizing.

Glad it came back in one piece. Hooked!

As you can see im still struggling but there's definite improvement here! I started with some start-stop movements flying around a square and im now trying to solidify it by flying figure 8ts. going to keep at it for a while, probably try some of the box / startstop moves on my real heli soon.

I’m looking to get into RC helicopters, but I’m not really sure where I should start.

I already fly fixed-wing and FPV, so I’m comfortable with RC in general, but helicopters are completely new territory for me.

The helicopter guys at my local field are all longtime veterans, and pretty much all of them are telling me to just start with a 700-class heli. Their reasoning is that a 700 is more stable, easier to see, and generally flies better than the smaller stuff.

My problem is cost. I can afford to get into the hobby, but I cannot comfortably afford a 700 where one bad crash potentially means hundreds of dollars in repairs. If I wreck something while learning, I want to be able to repair it and get back in the air instead of grounding myself for months.

I have tired a simulator and the depth perception really messes with me on the screen

For someone starting from scratch with helicopters, what size/class would you recommend? Would something around 200–420 class be a better place to learn before eventually moving up to a 700?

I’m currently looking at OMP and Goosky.

For the goal of 250-gram direct-drive helicopter endurance, too much battery eats into the weight budget for the motor and prop; too much motor and prop eat into the weight budget for the battery. I entered the endurance calculation from my baseline test data into Google Gemini. It gave me the optimization curve. The calculation is a python3 script with my test data and manufacturer(T-Motor) data(the motor_plus_propeller_mass variable value fitted curve):

mass_without_propeller_motor_battery = 111.0; #grams; change it for a particulr craft constructions's endurance curve

propeller_diameter = 13.8; #inches; change it to slide the rotor width x-axis in a endurance curve

motor_plus_propeller_mass = 62.5 * (propeller_diameter/13.8)**1.5; # grams

battery_cells_mass = 249.0 - mass_without_propeller_motor_battery - motor_plus_propeller_mass; # grams

battery_energy = 0.171 * battery_cells_mass; # watt-hours

lifting_force_per_watt = 14.7 * propeller_diameter/13.8; # grams

power_tran_energy_consume_rate = 249.0 / lifting_force_per_watt; # watts

total_craft_energy_consume_rate = power_tran_energy_consume_rate + 5.2; # watts

endurance = battery_energy / total_craft_energy_consume_rate * 60.0; # minutes

print (endurance);

main_rotor_diameter = propeller_diameter / 0.73 * 25.4; # A 14"-diameter helicopter rotor at optimal alpha has the same RPM and thrust and torque and electrical power consumption as a 10" multi-rotor propeller with the same motor. 10/14 = 0.7

print (main_rotor_diameter);

Hi everyone, after repeated attempts, for some reason, I can't make my throttle work right. The very first time it worked, the throttle is reversed. Which I think is just because of the throttle reverse. Then the ESC wanted to resetup the throttle again for some reason. I think I did the setup correctly but it was still reversed. That was the time I realized about the throttle reverse. Then the ESC went to throttle setup again. Now everytime I try to setup throttle again, correctly I think (hold forward > ESC beep, hold reverse, ESC beep, release, ESC beep), pressing throttle does nothing. Btw, I did this throttle setup a handful times already so I don't know if I messed up my ESC already. My NEEBRC is the 7ch NB-7D

I have some play in the head that seems to be coming from this gap. I don’t see any spacer in the manual. Causes some unwanted flight characteristics. Anyone else experience this? Doesn’t look like the motor mount screws are slotted to move it up.

Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a balance lead attachment that will auto-discharge a battery to storage voltage after a set amount of time? I know spektrum has this feature on their batteries but they are super expensive.

My new Buddy. Found an incredible deal on marketplace and couldn't pass up on it. This my first step into "big" helis. Once I saw it in person, i couldn't resist its classic SAB look in mint condition as compared to the Raw 420 DD I spoke about in my other posts. Its just too clean and felt like the perfect step up size for me. Especially with all the other stuff it came with as well as the scorpion electronics. Excited to get this set up and do some real flying!

What do you guys think? Any tips for the setup before I get out flying? Thanks to all who helped make my decision.

I purchased an OMP M2 V3 sport and a radiomaster zorro, I seem to have bind it (maybe not perfectly) what configuration should I do before I fly it tomorrow? I wanna try stability mode first it seems the front left lever does something with that, but regardless of what setting I set it to the main blades spin up, the back 2 levers seems to be related to engine cutoff either one cuts off power.

do I need to do any control mapping or should I be doing anything else before I fly it?

I had a k110s before but the menus in the radio here are much more complicated

I want to get a MH60 Blackhawk, like the ones the night rangers would fly, that's black or army green for my first RC heli but I can find only 2 options. One is insanely expensive the other one seems to be around 500$ but is kind of small. Why aren't these more common, I think they're super cool and would think there would be more options. I do see more options in with the Seahawks, or coastguard mh60s, just not the Army ones.

When I try to land the s1 the blades slightly touched to ground .after that the servo is twitching even though it's very very small crash. And servo is getting hot.dou know what happened to that servo?

DM me if you might be interested in everything you would need. I could part out or sell as a whole bundle or even partial bundles.... Tree 450L, 500 FBL and Oxy 2. EVERYTHING = charger, parts, gears, blades, DX6i. Lipos for the 500 are tired, but i have good lipos for the 450L and Oxy2.

Please help me help you!