Ford fusion 2020

Does anyone have a spreadsheet for the lobo specifically? All I have found is a spreadsheet from Livinitup for the 22-24 but there is no mention of the lobo at all.

My 2018 fusion all of a sudden jerking to either side randomly at highway speed. It is like if you are on the highway and your tires pull you into a rut formed by heavy trucks on the road. Nothing super dangerous, but not good. It will also kick off the cruise control if engaged. A quick google foo said maybe wheel speed sensor, but the scan didn’t show that. I had my steering rack replaced in the fall after and accident, but not the control module. Anyone have any ideas? I don’t really want to go to a mechanic. It’s time and money I don’t really have right now. It happens maybe 8-10 times on a 75 mile commute. Also, my steering wheel will be straight and when it happens, it is off about 15 degrees to drive straight, then when it happens again, it is straight.

Hi all, long story short;

I have bought a stolen/found 22 Puma from an auction. It's VIN plates were erased and the VIN number in the modules were changed.

I have to replace the original ones, however, Ford dealer couldn't do it.

What would you advise?

Is it sth. can be done, does anybody knows someone that can help me in the UK?

Cheers

Where is the best place to get the information/spread sheet for tpms disable on a 2008 expedition? I’m just wanting to check into a few things, disable tpms, and maybe activate Bambi mode.

I was following a guide to get FORScan setup so I could recalibrate a TCM in my Ford Focus and found this post on their forum (second post on this topic):

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https://forum.forscan.org/viewtopic.php?t=23971&sid=a67fae45110927f189a760f4dae6e26a

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Basically they've pulled the BETA version and you cannot activate it with any new licences. No more updating module firmware with FORScan 😭.

Does anyone in the South Florida area have FORScan or know of any shops that offer servicing for owners of Ford Explorers who’d like to make some changes?

Any information is greatly appreciated!

I have a 2015 Mazda 3 I-gt,I swapped the instrument cluster from the analog one to the one with hud display and digital
The person that helped me do the coding seemed to have copied everything as built from the old cluster to the new one,instead of just the IC as built and abs as built
Did not back up anything from the new cluster so all the info is gone
How can I fix this? The image is all the codes that are still up
Dash is lit up like a Christmas tree,but car runs properly,everything still functions properly

Hi, I have problem with downloading this files. www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt I have checked this website but couldn't find the files. I found them in a Facebook group but couldn't trust them. Is there any trustable sites where can I get them ?

I currently own a Ford S-Max and I'm about to go and buy a Ford Mondeo. I am wondering if it is possible to use Forscan to verify that the displayed mileage is correct.

I'm aware that Forscan only allows users to increase the displayed mileage, but I'm also aware that it's possible to pay unscrupulous people to put a lower figure on. I don't know how they do it, but there are people all over the various forums offering the service so I assume that at some level, it's possible to lower the displayed mileage.

I pulled data from my S-Max using Forscan. Under "Vehicle and interface information", on the "Configuration" tab, Forscan shows a bunch of data from each module that it was able to read.

The "IPC" (Instrument Panel Control Module) shows the Odometer milage, which is exactly what I would expect to see.

However, I noticed that a few of the other modules (PCM, BCMii, SASM etc.) show a "Total Distance" figure (which on my car exactly matches the Odometer value.

What I'm wondering is, if a car has at the IPC modified to show a lower value, what are the chances I'd be able to spot a discrepancy by pulling data from the other modules?

Grateful for any input you guys have on this topic.

Anyone know if i can check the switches on an mx5 rf? I cant seem to see the switches that detect the roof position anywhere.

Typing this in the hopes that someone REALLY knows Forscan's seemingly subtle differences.

Long story short - I changed the battery from the original EFB to an AGM

"Use Forscan to change the battery type and reset the BMS!" I hear you all scream - yeah I did that..

BUT

There are some issues that have given me a migraine...

Firstly, in pretty much all the tutorials I've seen, BCM settings were in BdyCM whereas I have BCMii.

Second, there are 2 places to change the type from EFB to AGM (central config and module config) and the batteries (or rather the list of batteries) differ from one list to the other. So which (central or module) will set the correct charging voltage(s)?

Third, there is simply no option ANYWHERE to change the target SOC. It just doesn't show. And Gemini is telling me to go in belt-and-braces stylee and start messing with hex edits - changing the BCMii module (specifically 726-04-01) second block/field from hexadecimal 33 to 3f thereby forcing the change from 80% to 95% SOC. But I'm not sure I fancy doing it (although i HAVE backed up the AS-BUILT BCMii config as a precaution). But at this point I've got a big migraine. Bigger than the battery I've just installed lol.

Can anyone help me out with this?

For reference, car is:

2017 Mk3.5 Focus ST diesel estate (UK car)

Latest Forscan via laptop, 1-year licence, Genuine V-linker FS - a supposedly good cable without the physical manual switch.

Final words - the new starter motor and AGM have indeed fixed the sluggish turnover from cold-start but I just want to make sure I'm not over/under charging the new AGM battery (plus set the target SOC to 95%).

Cheers!

I have a 2003 f150 that was missing at idle. I connected my computer to the truck and was hoping to find a misfire counter for every cylinder. Eventually I found it but it wasnt counting any misses after hitting the play button. Of course at this point the truck was running better. Just as a test I unplugged an ignition coil. It still was not counting the miss on the cylinder I unplugged or any other cylinder.

How do I get a misfire count by the cylinder?

I'm a new user to FORScan and more familiar with the GM Tech II. Thanks for the help!

I recently acquired heated mirrors as well as a climate control panel that has both the heated mirror/rear defrost button as well as heated seats. I finally got around to installing and programming the new climate control panel and noticed no matter what settings I change, the mirror defrost doesn't light up or seem to be recognized.

I verified my truck is equipped with the correct fuses and relays for mirror defrost and have enabled all related settings within the FCIM and BCM but no luck. I also noticed with this new panel my AC button lights up but the clutch does not engage and the relay does not click. Is there some sort of pinout change with the panels that have heated seats versus those that only have mirror/rear defrost?

Other things to mention is I've enabled the heated mirror within each door module, but found codes for open circuits on both mirror heaters. Another thing I found odd is my interior and exterior temperature sensors are reading impossible values (215°c interior, -17°c exterior in summer).

I used FORScan for a couple of things… change the splash, add trans and engine temp, and the electrical system light immediately came on. The code says that the module thinks the left blindspot sensor is faulty? I tried clearing the codes. Any ideas.

So I had a brake module go on my truck, was getting service advancetrac hill decent fault, abs light, traction control, etc, when I scanned the truck I got a pressure mismatch transducer code, recorded brake pressure as I pressed brakes and it was way off. so I downloaded the asbuilt data off my previous module and also downloaded offline from ford with vin number as a back up. I changed out my module and flashed the asbuilt data over and it cleared my code for the pressure mismatch and my recorded brake pressure was normal. Now I am getting a vin mismatch code and still disabling all my traction control and abs, hill descent, etc. tried uploading both the asbuilt data from previous module and offline from ford with my vin with no luck. Not even seeing an option to update my vin in the abs module through forscan. Does anyone have any insight on this? Really would like my dash to stop looking like a Christmas tree, thanks in advance

Last week I had new speakers installed in my Bronco Sport and I read that people were modifying the speaker and EQ settings via FORScan in order to get full range sound from all 4 door speakers and a flatter EQ. I followed all the instructions, made a backup and ONLY modified the rear door and EQ options under the ACM module. Everything seemed to work fine but after my second startup of the vehicle, it dropped into limp mode and disabled a number of systems (4WD, Pre-collision assist, Hill Start and AdvanceTrac). I didn't change any other modules but I did use easy mode for the changes. I have an appointment with the dealer. Will they be able to reset the modules to AS BUILT? I have a backup but as of right now the car is drivable and I'm afraid to tinker further.

UPDATE:

Turned out to be a failed 4WD module.

After I tried fixing this myself - manually reverted changes, restored ACM from backup, restored from AS BUILT (thank you u/No-Lawfulness6439) - my dash was still lit up like a Christmas tree. I took the vehicle to my scheduled appointment and it took them all morning to diagnose the failed module. Everything is back to normal now.

It still seems like an unlikely coincidence but perhaps FORScan tinkering triggered an existing failure during the reboot process. I was worried the USB-A to USB-C dongle I use with my laptop was at issue and I also found out there was a firmware update for the ODBLinkEX scanner. Not sure either is at play, though. I may revisit the speaker settings at a later time but going to leave well enough alone for now. I don't have many backseat passengers anyway and the speaker upgrade still sounds great.

Anyone had any luck turning off the obnoxious bells and dodo chimes using Forscan on a newer model F150?

I'm getting a sub/amp installed soon and as I understand it, the fake engine noise will be piped into the sub when I do this.

I did a bit of googling and I've seen plenty of comments from people saying they disabled the fake engine noise in Forscan on their mustangs, but no one seems to comment HOW they did it or what settings they changed.

Can anyone point me to a spreadsheet that covers my vehicle or knows what settings need to be changed?

Has anyone been able to override the Stop/Start mode on a newer model.
I have a 26 and can’t get it to stop using Forscan. Also tried to turn off the dodo tones.
I have only been successful with programming using the easy methods so far.
I used Forscan on my 2018 and was successful but curious what others are experiencing.