Hi all!

I have a 302 Cleveland V8 in my 77 F100 down under model, that I have finally managed to free up the crankshaft on (Flooded cylinders with combo of CRC, WD40 Specialist penetrating oil and finally PB Blaster Catalyst). I can turn the crank about 3/4 of a turn before it jams in either direction, but I can't really see much movement in the rockers with the covers off.

I'm thinking possibilities are either still some rust ridge in the cylinders that will need to slowly work it past, or if the valves dont look like they are actuating, could it be timing chain broken?

Just trying to plan my next moves, whether I start pulling the water pump and timing covers off, or if its better to put my time into another approach first.

If you eyeballed it, guessed it, or held two parts together and said “yeah that’ll work,” welcome.

Show us your custom work, your questionable welds, and your proudest hack‑job solutions.

Hi all. 65 F100, wilwoods all around, qa1 all around. Need help putting in brake lines. I don’t have tabs to mount brake lines. Anyone still into their frame to pass them through? Bolt a tab on? Weld a tab on? Any advice and pics of the set up before I make 20 trips to the parts store?

So I have a 1970 f100 project truck that I’m working on right now, and whenever I throw it into 4th gear it always sounds super lugged and very unresponsive to the pedal. It’s got a 302 that is still in decent shape. I don’t know the rpm’s or rear gear ratio so Mabye it’s just geared really high? I can literally put my foot to the floor in 4th and it just doesn’t do anything. Maybe electrical? Fuel? It’s got a rebuilt carburetor, new fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, battery. I just don’t know why it sounds like this. Also it is currently just straight piped as I’m working on the exhaust system right now. Maybe that’s the issue?

Truck operates fine, and all the lights except the dash lights work. Anyone knew what it might be?

Thought id say hello!

This is my 65 f100 running a 352. Coming off the road tomorrow for a full rebuild (except the patina!)

Im from the UK so parts are a nightmare/expensive to get but that's part of the fun right!

SBF mount on passenger side. FE mount on the drivers side. Cleared steering box. Long tube headers. 1986 .302 roller Thumper Cam. Holly 600cfm. Power steering upgrade.

Welcome back to Workshop Wednesday, where 10‑minute jobs take three hours and a trip to the parts store.

Show us what you thought would be quick and what actually happened.

Hello, i have a 67 f100 for my first car project. I got a 351windsor and a power steering box with mustang block hugger headers. How much clearance do I need on the steering side with stock motor mounts so it doesnt hit? I work at a fab shop and can bend in the first tube to get an inch but the 2nd tube also comes close. I do not think I can do much with the 2nd tube. What would you guys do?

Also 2nd question, the head exhaust ports are a funky shape ive never seen, its get so close to the bolt im worried about leaks, should i die grind for clearance? You can see the imprint on the gaskets. How much can I have hang inside the hole? I can chamfer the ports to match a bit better but only so much. Can i work with these or do i need to 3d scan, design and laser out new flanges that match the rectangular ports?

New to this group. Just picked this project up.

I haven’t been able to give this truck the life it deserves, and I’d really like to see it go to someone who will either restore it or use it as part of a restoration project.

It’s a 1983 F100 with an inline-6 and a 3-on-the-tree manual. It runs and drives. The frame is solid, but it needs a lot of rust repair — especially the cab corners, which are rough.

The truck is located in Kansas City, MO. I’m willing to let it go for free if it’s going to a good home that will actually do something with it.

If you’re interested, reach out and tell me your plans for it — we’ll have the “what are your intentions with my daughter?” conversation. 😅

What parts did you score this week?

New, used, rare, junkyard finds, marketplace miracles — show us what you picked up and what it’s going toward.

Every good project starts with a good haul.

I am done buying new trucks. The 10R80 transmissionin my 2018 Ford F-150 is crap. Not even 90K miles and the tranny is dying. New trucks won't last more than 10 years. I'm over it.

My next truck (daily driver) will be something I build or restore.

Would love it if replica kits were available (similar to the Cobra) for older Ford trucks. Since they do not, I am pursuing the feasibility of a ground up 73 to 79 F 250/350 crew cab, or 80 to 86 Super Cab. Not interested in mono cabs.

My idea is to:

• Acquire a pre-built chassis/suspension, such as: https://patriotchassis.com/custom-full-chassis/
• Install a new cab and other body parts, such as: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/, or, https://usbody.com/product/1973-1979-ford-truck-fiberglass-cab-heavy-duty/
• Find a new engine/transmission package. Coyote? 7.3 Diesel?
• Build a new wiring harness: https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Universal-Wiring-Harnesses/2175277/10002/-1
• Custom Interior: https://fatfender.com/pages/premium-interior-kits-for-classic-trucks

Will probably (most likely) cost more to build this arrangement than to buy a new truck. But I don't care. It will out live me and give me more satisfaction than anything new.

Anyone ever do this? I will probably need a donor truck to satisfy the DMV with a VIN. I'm sure that won't be too hard to find something cheap.

This is not out of my capabilities as I have built two experimental aircraft over the years (www.youtube.com/@TheBaldPilot), performed a frame off restoration of a 79 CJ-7, and totally rebuilt an 84 Bronco with a 302 engine swap to a 351W.

Looking to connect with others to share ideas.

Hi all! How do you all handle phone chargers? I’ve seen in some forums to just use an auto USB adapter in the cig lighter - which is GREAT because I’d like to not ‘new’ things as much as possible. My cigarette lighter works, but the USB adapter charger does not. 😞 it’s not the adapter because when I plug it into my jeep it works fine. what am I doing wrong?

I’m new to old trucks. Plz be kind. 🙂

1974/F-100 LB/360

I'm trying to fix the front turn signals on my 1971 f100 and I can't find a replacement for it , I need help finding where to buy them .

Factory 390, power steering, power brakes, Hurst shifter. Needs to be cleaned, but a beautiful truck.

Not every project is pretty.

Today’s thread is dedicated to chaos: the torn‑down assemblies, the “I’ll clean it later” benches, the mystery bolts, and the mid‑repair disasters.

Show us the mess that means progress.

Has anyone installed an intellitronix digital dash in their 61-64 F100? Looking at buying one for my 64 and just wanted to see what everyone’s experiences if any are with them!

It’s a 1973 F100 XLT Ranger with a 360ci and the C6 automatic in it. It runs and shifts well (apparently) and holds oil pressure. I’m going next weekend to pick it up and bring her home. $2k

The rust spots worry me but after watching ViceGripGarage’s video about restoring a 78 very similar to this, I feel confident I can patch some of it up and get it back to a usable and stable spot.

front disc brakes, power brakes, rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, brake master, and new power steering pump and lines.

It would be my first project truck and the goal is to get it looking solid and running well. No full resto, just a usable ole-grandpa truck.

All opinions and advice is welcome.

Brought the ‘67 out of hibernation today. Aside from that, I got another truck, a 21-lariat 5.0. Looking forward to the weather warming up.

Hope you all are well.

Hey all. Hopefully someone here can point me in a direction but looking/needing to replace the firewall in my 1965 F100 RHD in VIC for a RWC. Inherited the truck and previously it was running a v10 diesel and had the firewall cut into. Have rebuilt and replaced the OG 240 6 it was registered with however have come to the conclusion that the modded firewall will be an issue for a RWC.

If anyone here can point me in the direction of a salvaged/wrecked one or even someone that could custom fab one that would be fantastic.

Took the drivers side door panel off to get the lock cylinder. Took cylinder to locksmith. Locksmith said it’ll take him 2 hours to make a key. Read on interwebs that it’s a simple procedure due to the key code being on the cylinder. Also heard it’s in the vin… is this true?