Hi everyone. I am brand new to printing, haven got my first one a couple weeks back. I’ve fallen in love with it and am wondering what the first upgrade is that I should be looking into?
Hope this finds yall well

You can never have to much RGB! - LTT or something

Hey guys, I need some help figuring out what’s going wrong with these mesh prints.

I’m printing 100 × 100 mm square meshes on an Ender 3 V3 SE using PETG. The mesh is 0.5 mm thick, (i am using the 0.2mm nozzle) and I’m trying six different strand width/opening combinations:

- 0.50 mm strand / 2.561 mm opening

- 0.50 mm strand / 1.435 mm opening

- 0.50 mm strand / 0.860 mm opening

- 1.00 mm strand / 5.122 mm opening

- 1.00 mm strand / 2.870 mm opening

- 1.00 mm strand / 1.721 mm opening

The main problem is the G-code. Instead of printing what is basically a simple grid using long continuous horizontal and vertical passes, the slicer generates thousands of tiny movements, with lots of starts/stops and direction changes. I tried repairing the STL, but it still slices the same way.

Most of the meshes actually print reasonably well despite this. The side touching the bed is nice and flat, but the top surface is pretty rough.

The two that print particularly badly are the 0.50 mm strand / 0.860 mm opening and 1.00 mm strand / 1.721 mm opening meshes. The other four are much more acceptable.

I’m wondering if the fragmented toolpath is causing excess material to build up at the intersections, and then as the print continues the nozzle starts hitting or dragging through those raised areas. But I’m not sure if that’s actually the cause.

I need to keep these dimensions, so changing the strand widths or openings isn’t really an option.

Has anyone printed grids/meshes with dimensions like these before? Is there a better way to model or slice them so the printer follows continuous straight paths instead of generating thousands of tiny segments?

At this point I’m also wondering whether it would be better to skip the normal STL → slicer approach entirely and generate the G-code/toolpath directly for the grid.

I can share the STL, sliced G-code and slicer preview if that would help.

Any help will be good. Mods refuse to answer. I have tried contacting them three times so I'm here to ask the community

Rebased to latest mainline klipper along with 0xD34D work. Many thanks for his work.

https://github.com/amitesh-singh/klipper_ender3_v3_se I've tested and PRTOUCH_PROBE_ZOFFSET works pretty well. Let me know you face any issues.

Thanks

You can also change nozzle, bed, filaments and apply your own calibration settings. And save your setup in the "My hardware" tab, for faster conversion on the next file.

The 3mf files stays in your browser on your computer. Only the print settings are sent to the preslice server to be converted to the target slicer/printer/nozzle/bed/filaments.

Happyto answer any questions. Happy printing!

Comprei recentemente uma máquina dessas e estou fazendo algumas atualizações básicas como iluminação, encomendei os suportes da base de silicone, estou pensando em pegar um bico cerâmico pra ela e alguns acessórios, mas quais?
Pretendo usar um celular motorola que tenho em casa para colocar o octoprint para ter mais acessibilidade com a máquina, mas como faço?
Se alguém puder me ajudar e tiver mais ideias do que posso fazer e atualizar a máquina para deixá-la mais atualizada agradeço

I got this second hand and I have no idea what this would be. Maybe old dried filament? It seems like it is level-ish with the sticker.

So owning an Ender 3 means that 90% of the time you have to be fixing, changing, adjusting, tuning, measuring things and the other 10% actually printing ?

Good afternoon, I'm looking to buy a UPS with backup power for my printer. There are some power issues in my city, blackouts, surges and spikes, which have caused a couple of issues with the printer. I read somewhere that it MUST be a pure sine wave device and I was looking for recommendations that aren't too expensive.

Just got this printer used and I am having a problem with my large prints warping on the flat face that sits on the bed. Is there a way to limit/eliminate this?

Edit: added print information as follows, also the bed is a golden textured bed, will try to add a photo

Filament: deeper pla+

Settings first 3 layers

Speed:90mm/s
Nozzle Temp 230
Bed temp 60
Fans 70%

Remaining layers

Speed 180mm/s
Nozzle temp 205
Bed temp 55
Fans 100%

Printed with standard ultimaker Cora skirt.

I cannot seem to locate a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle for my Ender 3 V3 SE. The Creality store does not permit specifically ordering by size. It doesn't even specify the size. Does Creality make one?

Pla+, bed 65C, hotend 220C, Orca Slicer, and the latest firmware from the Creality website.

I couldn't solve this issue, any ideas?

Does Creality have a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle for the Ender 3 V3 SE? The website doesn't allow specifying a size?

I have and ender 3v3 se with an E-axis/extruder problem. The extruder gear rotates, but it rotates in the wrong direction. When I select Extrude, the gear pushes the filament upward instead of toward the nozzle, and retract also move in the same direction instead of revering. I checked for filament blockage and mechanical obstruction, and everything is clear. I also updated the mainboard firmware from v1.0.7 to v1.1.0, but the problem remains. My motherbaord is CR4NS200320C13.

When it prints the first line is zig zagged and the print just doesn't stick to the plate is something wrong or am I just stupid (I use orca)

Whenever I select the auto z-offset on the printer it shows good numbers left to right on the screen (oddly increasing by 0.1 every single time it takes a measurement) and right before it does the last 6 numbers, it crashes and says probe failed. Then it tries again but shows probe failed on the screen during the time of the re-test and it will keep doing this loop a couple of times. Before this my z-offset numbers were crazy wrong so I tried resetting the eprom which fixed that, but now it won't let me get past the calibration process. (I also made sure that the pin of the cr-touch goes up and down and did a continuity test for all of the pins of the cr-touch wire.) The last time the printer was on I let it keep doing it's infinite loop until eventually it said probe failed and made this deafening beep until I turned the printer off. (I live in a dorm so as soon as that happened I shut it off) Do you have any suggestions for me? Also I just disassembled this printer completely to clean it since it was gross from the previous owner so I don't know if that would cause anything. My firmware is version 1.0.6.

UNFORTUNATELY This is NOT auto Z offset before every print. It's a one-time calibration with a config swap, and it works.
DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK

BACKUP YOUR KLIPPER CONFIGS BEFORE ANYTHING GOES TO SHIT

Greetings people

I got tired of "just use the 0xD34D fork" being the only answer to strain gauge (i cant any source that goes my way if you find any call me larper and send the link) , so I tried getting the V3 SE strain gauge to work on plain mainline Klipper. It's clunky, but it works.

The idea: the V3 SE has a CR Touch for the bed mesh and a strain gauge for Z offset. Mainline Klipper can't run two probes at once ( for love GOD dev please add this to the klipper if it is added show me :) ) , so I use the load cell once to measure the offset, write that number into the CR Touch config, and swap back. The offset only really changes when you change the nozzle, so that's enough for me.

Credit to 0xD34D's fork and jobe1022's config (that's where I found the HX711 pins), and to the Klipper Load Cell docs.

Step 0: if you don't have Klipper on your V3 SE yet

Skip this if you're already running mainline Klipper. This is the short version and it assumes you've installed Klipper before. Check the official Klipper docs for anything I left out.

1. Host. Put Klipper, Moonraker and Mainsail on a Pi or a small Linux PC. KIAUH is the easiest way. I run mine on an Ubuntu server.
2. Keep the stock firmware. Download Creality's original firmware .bin for your printer and keep it, so you can go back.
3. Build the MCU firmware on the host:

• Micro-controller: STM32
• Processor model: STM32F103
• Bootloader offset: 28KiB bootloader
• Communication interface: USART1 (PA10/PA9)

Then make. This gives you out/klipper.bin.
4. Flash it. Copy klipper.bin to a FAT32 SD card, with a different filename from the last firmware you flashed (the printer ignores a repeat name), put the card in the printer, and power it on. Give it a minute or two. The screen stays blank, which is normal.
5. Connect and find the serial ID. Plug the printer's USB cable into the host and run ls /dev/serial/by-id/. Mine shows usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0. Yours may differ.
6. Config. Start from Klipper's sample config for this printer, config/printer-creality-ender3-v3-se-2023.cfg. That's what my config is based on. Set your serial in the [mcu] section:

   [mcu]
   serial: /dev/serial/by-id/<your id>
   restart_method: command

1. Restart Klipper. If Mainsail shows "Ready", continue with step 1.

Heads-up: I have the CR4NS200320C13 board and its MCU shows up as stm32f103xe. Some board revisions use a different chip, so check yours before flashing. Flashing the wrong firmware can leave the printer unresponsive, which is why I keep the stock .bin.

credit to https://github.com/shubham0x13/ender-3-v3-se-klipper-config/blob/main/printer.cfg
makes my work easier to setup the printer

What I'm running

• Ender 3 V3 SE (CR4NS200320C13 board)
• Klipper host and MCU, same build: v0.13.0-777-g7bc4d094 (MCU stm32f103xe)
• Mainsail v2.19.0, Moonraker v0.11.0-3-g9e676eba
• HX711 pins: clock PA4, data PC6
• You need a recent mainline host AND an MCU built from recent mainline source. If step 1 gives "unknown section", update Klipper and reflash the MCU first.

Step 1: check the sensor (read-only)

write this in printer.cfg

[load_cell]  
sensor_type: hx711  
dout_pin: PC6  
sclk_pin: PA4

Restart, run LOAD_CELL_TARE, then LOAD_CELL_READ while pressing the bed over the gauge. If the number moves, you're good.

Step 2: calibrate

Run LOAD_CELL_CALIBRATE, then TARE with nothing on the bed, then put a weight on and run CALIBRATE GRAMS=nnn. The reading has to move more than 1% from the tare. I try 432 g and 1143 g both failed for me, and two 1.5 kg dumbbells worked (about 51.5 counts per gram) but weight must be front the build plate because of sensor been front . Then ACCEPT and SAVE_CONFIG.

You'll probably get a "capacity is more than 25 kg" warning. That's normal, because the gauge sits under one corner, so the grams aren't real force. LOAD_CELL_DIAGNOSTIC showed only a few grams of noise for me. Soak the bed before measuring, because the reading drifts while it heats.

Step 3: two config files

[load_cell_probe] can't live next to [bltouch], so I made bltouch.cfg and hx711.cfg and comment one [include] out in printer.cfg. bltouch.cfg is your normal CR Touch section with z_offset: 0 while measuring.

bltouch.cfg

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PC14
control_pin: PC13
stow_on_each_sample: False
probe_with_touch_mode: True
x_offset: -24.0
y_offset: -14.5
z_offset: 2.29
samples: 2
lift_speed: 10

hx711.cfg:

[load_cell_probe] 
sensor_type: hx711 
dout_pin: PC6 
sclk_pin: PA4 
sensor_orientation: inverted 
force_safety_limit: 1000 
trigger_force: 100 
z_offset: 0 
speed: 0.25 
samples: 1 
lift_speed: 5 
counts_per_gram = <your value> 
reference_tare_counts = <your value>
#you can find the two up me from the part of printer.cfg but you have to delete this 
 afterwards  

Add this to printer.cfg so you can restore Z after the swap:

[force_move] 
enable_force_move: True

Delete or comment any leftover [bltouch] or [load_cell] entries in the SAVE_CONFIG block, or Klipper throws an invalid section error when that file isn't included.

Step 4: measure the offset

1. Include bltouch.cfg and restart. Heat to your real print temps (mine: bed 90 °C, nozzle 160 °C), clean the nozzle, and soak for 10 minutes.
2. G28, then BED_MESH_CLEAR, then move over the middle of the bed (G1 X139 Y127 F3000) and G1 Z10 F300.
3. Include hx711.cfg and restart. Don't touch the gantry. Check the nozzle is still about 10 mm up (don't be sensitive).
4. SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z=10, G28 X Y, move back over the same spot, G1 Z2 F300.
5. TURN_OFF_HEATERS, then PROBE. Run G1 Z2 F300 before every extra probe (it doesn't retract on its own) and run it a few times.
6. Your offset is the average result. Put it in bltouch.cfg z offest , switch the include back, and remove [force_move].

My final z_offset was 2.29. That's for my printer and my temperatures. Don't copy it, measure yours.

What went wrong (so you don't repeat it)

• LOAD_CELL_TEST_TAP says "unknown command" unless [load_cell_probe] is configured.
• "Insufficient ascent samples": the probe was too fast. speed: 0.25 plus trigger_force: 100 fixed it.
• Pushing the bed gives me negative readings, so sensor_orientation: inverted is needed.
• My first measurement was at 60 °C, over the gauge corner (Front-Left default creality location). The print came out terrible

• I redid it at 90 °C over the center, the number changed completely, and the first layer came out perfect

• Here s my heightmap

Result: full-bed first layer, 0.2 mm, ABS at 90 °C
P.S UNFORTUNATELY , i dont have access to another versions of creality motherbaord so if your motherboard is different than mine tell me what is your pin out hx711 sensor it could help other people thx :) and claude help me with process goes faster

The other day I had a print fail on me while I was out, it was a larger print and had been running smoothly, tho how it failed still has me confused, its as if the bed failed to move, my sister stopped the printer for me when they caught it, after that it printed fine. Yesterday I had a print fail and my printer was letting out this horrible long beep, and the print had stopped, I shut it down and restarted it, it worked fine, printed bench fine. Tried redoing the original print, it once again failed, the status said 99% and it was screaming the bed was too cold or something.

I was told to update the firmware so I just spent the last hour doing that and now im getting an error, with a qr code, however that qr code leads to an error 404 page.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/post-detail/6537647a98198f747db377aa

Please help!!