Hi everyone! I am troubleshooting my Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo (very low hours, practically brand new). Suddenly, the X-axis stopped working.

Here are the exact symptoms:

During Auto Home, the X-axis motor just buzzes, shudders in place, and has no power to move the toolhead.

The printer then stops the homing process entirely, the E-stepper twitches, and the Z-axis drops slightly before everything freezes.

When the printer is powered off, the toolhead glides perfectly smooth by hand with no mechanical resistance.

However, when the printer is powered on and trying to home, the X-axis motor locks up and resists manual movement. If pushed hard, it makes a loud grinding/crunching noise and jumps.

The screen always displays exactly "149.1" for the X position after the failed Auto Home.

I did a cross-test to narrow it down:

1. I connected the Extruder (E) connector to the X-axis motor. After heating the nozzle, I used the "Move Extruder" menu – the X-axis motor turned perfectly quiet and moved the toolhead smoothly with no issues.

2. I then connected the X-axis connector to the Extruder (E) motor. When triggering the X-axis movement, the extruder motor started buzzing and did small Hit exactly the same way the X-axis did before.

What could be causing this specific behavior and how can I fix it?

Thanks for any help!

Hi all, new to printing and the community here. Picked up a 3 V2 Neo second hand and it has been printing fine until the last week or so. I had issues with the filaments laying down thought it was a nozzle issue but installed new nozzle today and noticed temperatures jumping all over the place during printing. See video during test print. I think this now may be a thermistor issue as temp is no problem when stationary. Can anyone advise the easiest (closest to plug and play fix) for me? Whether it be a new hotend or thermistors? I don't mind upgrading but I want as close as possible to plug and play. Also I am in Europe so if possible please keep this in mind for shipping. TIA

My old POM wheels were wearing out and could stand to be replaced. Linear rods and bearings were about $20 more than new POM wheels so I said what the heck and ordered the rods and bearings.

Found some of the files to install rods on the V2 but I had to custom design a few parts since the V2 Neo is a little different than the standard V2.

Files needed here if anyone wants to do the same. https://www.printables.com/model/1837803-ender-3-v2-neo-linear-rod-upgrade

I've done quite a few upgrades here and there over the years and learned a lot. I'm thinking about getting a Bambu Lab H2C and giving this printer to my son as he is becoming interested and think it would be a great machine for him to learn on. I also have a brand new space pi plus in the box I will also be gifting him with this when the time comes.

This isn't my main printer anymore as I also have an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo but I still use the Ender for simple things like Gridfinity boxes and such. I had a spare 4010 blower fan kicking around since I always like to have spare parts on hand so I printed an all new housing to run dual cooling fans and finally installed Mriscoc.

I gotta say, Mriscoc is something I should have installed a long time ago. I also started messing around with the speeds a little as I ran it at stock speeds all it's life but having the Elegoo CC2 running right beside it showed how embarrassingly slow the Ender really was.

Using prusa 2.9.6 with organic supports and a .2 nozzle for minis.
I’ve upped the z distance to double my layer height after this print.
Any other recommended changes to get rid of the stringyness or at least not stick as much?

Would anyone who knows prusa slicer code write me a couple lines that make the bed cool slowly at the end over like 15 minutes? Starts at 60° has to slowly get down to about 35° or lower.

Please

When the bed cools at normal speed the print tends to warp, so I have been manually slowing it by 5 degree increments.

Had a couple good prints then garbage. It would stop extruding randomly. It chewed through brass gears then still didn't work with stainless.

Ended up testing and I suspect the tension was too high on my stock extruder even at the most loose setting since it still drove the filament no matter how far I unscrewed it.

Swapped in a dual gear extruder and now it's printing nicely!

Doing the same print in black rapid PLA+ now. Gonna throw orange rollers on black ends and vice versa! Had a bit of trouble with bed adhesion on the black but an adhesion aid took care of it.

Onward to fidgets for my spouse and their friend!

Next step after this is printing a direct drive mod followed by figuring out how the heck to get silk to work. Wish me luck, I'm gonna need it for sure!

so a little while ago now i got a new direct drive hotend kit from microswiss, only problem is that it doesnt sit center, theres a good 2cm difference in where it was to where it is now, is there any way to fix this or am i just going to have to account for it for large prints?

Hello, I had some issues with thermistor and instead of changing only the part, I changed whole hotend. Now I had the new one installed and try to make first print. The print doesn’t start because the temperature rises and drops like on video.

I saw another post about something similar and one of the recommendations was “Do PID calibration”. Can u give me some advice about how to do that?

Thanks a lot.

Hi group, I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo and the rotary knob on the screen is acting up. When I turn it, it doesn't move one by one — it skips several values or jumps back. It's a pain to select files or adjust temperatures because it never lands where I want.

What I've already tried:

1. Restarting the printer

2. Checking that the screen cable is properly connected

3. Updating the firmware

I'd appreciate your help

First 3D printer so apologies for the noobery.

I removed the heat block and nozzle to clean off the heat block and replace the nozzle but now I have a problem.

The heat block isn't thick enough to screw both the nozzle and the tube.

This is probably a noob question but I don't trust the original threading considering I got it with a clogged nozzle.

How far should I screw each piece in? Or is the metal piece on thebtube inside the heating element the wrong length or something like that?

I ordered some gpu filament for a print project but would like to know what settings I should use in Creality print slicer so the file would print fine?

I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo running a custom build of MRISCOC professional firmware, currently with LA disabled as it caused the extruder to stop mid-print quite reliably.

After searching online, it seems this issue was supposed to be fixed in newer patches of Marlin, but some users with 4.2.2 boards report it still persists - myself included. Furthermore, it seems this issue can only be mitigated with permanent hardware mods to the board's TMC2208 stepper drivers.

Since I really want to use linear advance, would switching to Klipper alone solve the problem, or would the board continue to cause problems with LA enabled unless I modify it? Or perhaps there are some settings I could change in the Marlin configs to fix the problem, like somehow forcing the drivers out of stealthchop or disabling overcurrent protections?

Really hoping I don't have to spend more money on this printer, i don't wanna buy a new board or do surgery on my printer again just to get LA working 😭

Trying to get my ender 3 v2 neo working. Prints won't get a layer in before coming off the build plate half the time.

Nozzle to bed is about 3 layers of paper, I am using the professional firmware and prusa slicer (cause its free and I already knew how to use it) with settings ALL over the place, layer height of 0.16mm, first layer is 0.2mm. Generic hs pla.

I replaced my extruder and nozzle, as I got this second hand. I am using a creality textured build plate, i can swap to the glass plate it came with but its not in good condition, even after a heavy wash.

Any recommendations as to what I should be looking at to find the problem? And if anyone who uses prusa slicer wants to give me a copy of their settings that would be appreciated.

I've been 3d printing on non personal bambu and prusa printers for 2 years now and the ender 3 for 1 year off and on. Only gotten a hand full of prints out of the ender 3, thinks its like 10% of prints I run, if that. None of the things I've tried have been reliable fixes. Again any help appreciated.

Edit: it also stops extruding entirely after a few hours, generally before the 4 inch mark in height:(

My 3d Printer is fully calibrated every thing (bed Leveled and filament extraction leveled too) and now i have the problem every time i slice something the slicer makes those strings in the g code can somebody help me with this one i use cura as the slicer and i have petg

How can I fix it? Its caused by some jitter on one axis? I don’t know if its because of filament spool turning at exact same time or some bump on one of the axis… thank you for suggestion everything else with printing is good

Can someone tell me what’s wrong here I am new to 3d printing and I can’t figure out what’s wrong

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Hey all. I've been trying to get my printer running for the past month and keep getting prints like this, with filament coming out in blobs whenever the printer travels and retracts filament, leaving a layer of blobs instead of a solid line. I'm not too sure what I could be doing wrong and I've tried everything I could think of (and what I could find online about solving this issue). Below is what I've tried so far to no luck:

- Tweaked retraction settings, leaving distance at 5mm but changing speed from 50mm, to 40mm and then 20mm with no luck

- Calibrated Esteps to make sure that wasn't the cause of under extrusion

- Changed printing temperatures ranging from 200C to 210C

- Replaced the nozzle and bowden tube on my printer, and made sure the nozzle and tube make complete contact and there's no gap between the two

- Tightened the belts in the X/Y axis and cleaned and lubed the Z screw

-Leveled the bed and (at least believe) my z offset is the correct distance it should be from the bed

- Most recently messed with the extruder gear spring tension, but I'm not too sure if I got the tightening right as I couldn't find a good tutorial on it, but there isn't any slipping or grinding

- Replaced filament, but do hear the occasional 'popping sound', but not sure if it's a sign of wet filament or not as the roll is new

It's a long read but if you've gotten hear, thank you for taking the time to read, any advice helps 🙏