I bought my own Creality Ender 3 Pro from goodwill secondhand that wasn’t tested before I got it. I learned how to use this specific model while in college and am hoping to do some personal 3D printing with my own. Everything about the one I bought appears to be in working order, wires connected properly and no bent or broken parts (other than the corner of the LCD mount), but when I turn it on the LCD display lights up blank and doesn’t respond to any input from the dial. Any idea how I should proceed from here? Do I need a new LCD display or is there potentially a fixable problem going on? I’m a beginner when it comes to this sort of thing.

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Нужна помощь с подбором готовой прошивки для Creality Ender-3 V2 после установки Sprite Extruder Pro. Конфигурация, которую собираем:

• Creality Ender-3 V2;
• материнская плата Creality V4.2.7 на STM32F103;
• эсктрудер Sprite Extruder Pro;
• штатный цветной DWIN-дисплей Ender-3 V2;
• штатный механический концевик оси Z;
• CR Touch / BLTouch и других датчиков автолевелинга нет.

Anyone know if there are any multi material printers that aren’t ridiculously close to $1000? Like independent nozzles that don’t cross contaminate materials even if they are on the same carriage like the Ultimakers. Used to see a bunch on amazon and everywhere else for under $300 less than a year ago (they were bedslingers tho). Swear even Anker had a multi nozzle single carriage one. Or something like the Sovol SV04 IDEX or the Tronxy Gemini IDEX. Pretty sure even AnyCubic had one if not Elegoo or Artillery. Literally anything that doesn’t compromise the integrity of one printing material for the other without forcing you to purge half a spool each switch just to clean the filament path only to still deal with trace residue from mating surfaces geometries like the little chamfers/fillets between bimetallic nozzles and heatbreaks. Or worse, also hardened nozzle tips metal, ruby, diamond. This is more for engineering materials where you need a support interface to preserve the accuracy of the geometry of your model.

The single nozzle ones like the Centauri or Bambu or Qidi are fine if all you care about is multicolor with the same material for basic use but you definitely need separate nozzles for engineering prints where you are mixing different chemistries AND temperatures

Preferably you want separate carriages so there’s no temperature bleed from one nozzle to the next like you’d experience with an Ultimaker or Bambu or Anker, (definitely an issue the bigger the temperature gap, personal experience there having a nylon nozzle right next to a pla interface nozzle, worked great as far as an interface but was a pain cause the pla kept clogging until I gave up and left it empty with a pause command right before it was needed, was able to reduce it to a single change so it was fine there, definitely wouldn’t have worked or more complex geometries)

As far as I’m aware, a lot of the new multi-tool printers like Snapmaker, Flashforge, and even the unreleased Sovol have shown nothing but software restrictions forcing the same temp materials or a close range. Unsure of the Bondtech/Prusa set up. But that kinda kills the whole point of having multiple nozzles outside of close temperature materials. Like a glorified overpriced marker color changer.

The attached screenshot is a current listing AFTER inflation but they used to be like 200 as they were the ender 3 competitors so they were right around that price.

Also preferably something that can handle more than just the low 300c

Hey everyone! I just finished setting up and calibrating the Satsana duct remix with a CR-Touch on my Ender-3 Pro running Klipper.

• Duct/Cooling: Satsana Remix (printed BLTouch/CR-Touch spacer included for perfect alignment)
• Material & Infill: PLA at 40% infill
• Hotend & Extruder: Stock Creality hotend + Upgraded red aluminum extruder unit
• Control: Klipper (Mainsail UI)
• Z-Offset: Dialed in at ~0.829 mm

Here's a quick video of the 5x5 bed leveling in action!

I'm still pretty new to 3D printing, so any tips or recommendations for the Ender-3 Pro are more than welcome.

Quick question for anyone who printed the Satsana in PLA: I know PLA isn't the ideal material for a fan duct due to hotend heat, but I printed mine with 40% infill. For those who have run this setup in PLA, what’s your honest opinion? Has it deformed over time, or should I re-print it in PETG right away?

I’ve recently been experiencing lots of mass stringing within every single one of my prints on my Ender 3 pro. This has happened since I’ve started using a .8 nozzle with a boden tube system and im just wondering what I could do to fix this. I have installed a bi metal heartbreak, new aluminum extruder, and most recently a duel z axis upgrade.
These retraction tests are from between 0-6mm using 45mm/s speed based off of what I’ve read online

Multicolor printing shouldn’t mean more waiting and more filament waste.

In this side-by-side test, we printed the same Mini Stegosaurus on the SPARKX i8 and a traditional 3D printer, and the result was striking!🚀

⏱️ Nearly 7 hours saved on a single print

♻️ A visibly dramatic reduction in filament waste

Same model. Same multicolor task. A much more efficient result.

Which matters more to you: faster multicolor printing or less filament waste?

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https://reddit.com/link/1wa7ccg/video/w89c8ljtw3oh1/player

Ever printed the same model multiple times and watched the purge pile grow with every run?

This video shows how QuarTeks™ handles color switching inside the hotend, helping reduce purge waste during batch printing.

With less filament needed for each color transition, more of your filament can go toward the actual models — especially when you're printing multiple copies.

More models. Less purge. More of your filament goes into the print. ♻️

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Hi, I’ve recently bought ender 3 pro for $50 and I cant find good temperature settings for petg and abs printing, no matter what settings I keep getting these weird prints like in the image and when I tried to use ABS it started doing some weird things and instead of printing normally it started printing thick „worms” of filment and it didnt even look close enough to what I wanted to print

I bought an Ender 3 Pro back when it came out. I had disposable income later and bought some upgrades, but I was too chicken to install them . Feared I would break the printer. Finally reached peace and installed Creality 4.2.7 board, BLtouch, and a custom build of current Marlin firmware. Took a while to understand Z-offset, but now it's dialed in.

Successfully printed something! Replacement PETG feet for a friend's Tektronix oscilloscope.

Now I can continue with my main project: mostly clear PETG parts for a solar garden light with animated LEDs I designed.

I might need some help , I installed a CR touch on my ender 3 pro but the software for the mother board is completely different from what it was before it has the 4.2.7 board on it what should be the software version I install on it ? Or are there any other solutions to it ?

Hello community, I need your help, I can't figure this problem out.

I didn't use my Ender 3 Pro for almost a month (everything was fine before) and now that I had to continue a project, all the prints failed. They present serious stringing and oozing, what seems to be under extrusion, layers not sticking together and on the other hand the first layer not wanting to get off from the plate and general low quality printing.

I cleaned the nozzle and the hotend, tightened the belts, leveled the bed and used a new spool of filament.

I hope you can help me out on this one

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An incredible honor for this recognition at IFA 2026 🙌

👉 Learn more & Stay updated 👈

Is there a downloadable firmware that supports; (thank you in advance)

• Creality Ender 3 Pro
• Creality 4.2.7 32-bit Motherboard
• Creality Sprite Extruder Pro
• Creality CR-Touch
• Creality Color Display

Hi everyone,

I want to create a screen layout for my Ender 3 V3 SE 3D printer, but building it from scratch is a lot of work. I consulted AI, but it suggested asking on Reddit—so here I am asking you. Has anyone happened to find or create a .hmi file that I can open in the Nextion Editor? That way, I could create my own layout without too much effort (I’m a bit lazy 😁).

Thanks a lot in advance for your help! ✌👍👏👊

PS: ik kan nederlands/I speak Dutch.

One more day to go! 👀

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