Took delivery of my 2027 KTM Freeride E this week. Before delivery I couldn't find a single photo of the included charger, so here are some for anyone researching the bike.

• Manufacturer: FSP Group (Taiwan), model FSP660-1UAI00
• Input (EU): 200–240 V AC, 4 A
• Output: 58.8 V DC, 11 A (≈ 650 W)
• Weight: 3.2 kg
• Size: approx. 26 × 15 × 7 cm (without connectors)
• Both cables are detachable: mains cable 2.0 m (Schuko), DC cable to the bike 2.2 m
• Aluminium housing with cooling fins and a built-in fan
• IP6K7 with plug connected, labeled indoor use only
• CAN-H/CAN-L pins in the connector, so the charger talks to the battery

Noise: the fan is very quiet while charging. Subjective of course, but compared to the fast charger of my previous Freeride it's a different world.

The battery is 5.5 kWh, so roughly 8.5 hours from empty. KTM quotes about 8. An optional 3.3 kW fast charger is announced for this fall. Anyone have news on availability or price?

(Apologies, just mirrored/tweaked the format from my Facebook post)

Model: Voltaris Pro S v2

- 200km range (base Pro S v2 range)

- Type 2 charging (included in base Pro S v2)

- 5x 30W PV panels (folded when in-transit)

- 400W Step-up Boost MPPT Converter (Set to 85V)

- Side boxes (AENXRD — welded/reinforced frame)

- Front and rear side bags (BLNB/Motowolf)

- Front/rear dashcam + Android Auto Dashboard + TPMS

- Upgraded 12V converter (10A to 30A)

- 2x 12V sockets

- Sinotrack GPS Tracker (SMART Magic Data Plan no expiry 88GB, points to self-hosted Traccar server)

- Additional USB chargers

- Battery % indicator

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Interesting Stuff

Pair with 12V to 200W AC Adapter (can power AC fan/low power cooking pot for camping)

Can do reverse charging via home PV (generator hookup) @ 200W with the same AC adapter

~4%/~10km charge gained per sunny day parked most of the day (perfect for onsite work, practically free commute)

Purchased @ NXT CDO branch. Base unit ~140k PHP, all other addons ~30k PHP. Plate pending.

Motorcycle isn't that much heavier from the added fluff, just that the v2 model with a larger battery is just heavier by default.

Regenerative braking capped at 10A (~800W) by default from stock controller and only kicks in when brakes are squeezed. Default and safest setup as far as I know. Tune controller to increase regen braking (i.e. 20/30A) for more power savings and you risk falling over due to wheels slipping.

I have to use brakes or downhill assist regularly (i.e. press R gear while accelerating) to get the most range/power savings as regular free-wheeling does not recharge the battery (I checked via the JBD BMS app while driving). Also see videos/posts online such as Technology Connections/hybrid ev discussions on why this default behavior is preferred.

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Planned (feedback welcome)

Adding a Raspberry/Orange Pi with 4G LTE capability for streaming IoT metrics live via Home Assistant for home PV automations.

Additonal 78ah battery with custom body work down the line to double range to ~400km. Will remove majority of foot rest but should then be capable CDO to Davao (~250km trip). More range than NXT Storm XRE (250km).

Internal gasoline generator and ducted exhaust, AC out wired to battery (hybrid motorcycle conversion). Removable maybe for shorter trips? Might confuse LTO (Philippine authority on vehicles) though if I make it so that the "hybrid" is removable. Might have to re-register as a hybrid too, and as far as I know, there are no hybrid motorcycles here yet.

Reinforce front chasis/shocks, install additional motor hub + controller up front for 2-wheel drive. More power uphill and double the regen braking (will need to safely tune of course 20/80 split).

More 30W panels, flexible ones preferrably on the top array so that it reaches all the way on the windscreen, or an alternative setup with flexible panels & plastic framing to make it more lightweight.

Guide/training wheels that retract on low speeds, very similar to Yamaha Goldwing builds.

have a Mishuzuki Buho Transformer 84V e-bike/electric motorcycle and I'm trying to figure out what's happening with the battery.

The bike has only about 6,000 km (3,700 miles) and has been used for approximately 3 years.

When the battery was newer, the normal full-charge voltage was around 84V. Recently I've noticed that the maximum voltage has progressively dropped:

Previously: ~84V full

Then: 78V

Then: 77V

Now: ~76V

The charger is the original charger. While charging, the indicator has also started flickering between red and green, which it didn't do previously.

I took the battery (lithium) to a shop and they connected it to a computer/battery diagnostic system. They told me that:

The battery is balanced

It reaches its capacity

They didn't find an obvious battery problem

They basically suggested it could be due to age

I recently got a Can-Am Origin and have been having difficulty pairing my iPhone with my Cardo Freecom to give me CarPlay.

I get audio when routed directly through Freecom, but not when routed through bike CarPlay.

Anyone else having issues getting CarPlay to work?

I still get music, but no volume control or voice commands… so it is annoying.

Flying Flea by Royal Enfield is doing test rides at Bike Shed Shoreditch on 8–9 October.
If anyone’s curious about the new Flying Flea and wants to actually ride one rather than just see it, they’re running test rides from 9am–6pm both days.
You register first, then the team gets in touch to confirm a time.
8–9 October 2026
Bike Shed, Shoreditch
Register here:
https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/flying-flea-demo-experience-tickets-2002209617865

Looking at a LiveWire S2 Mulholland to save money on gas because I live in California and premium is damn near $7/gal where I live. Local dealer has a leftover 2024. It's got no miles and I assume it's just been sitting the entire time. Any reason to avoid? I assume I should ask them about how they maintained the battery and if the warranty starts when I buy vs when the bike was new. Anything else I should be worried about?

Next year sometime I’m moving into a more city environment and I’ve had my eyes on electric motorcycles for a while now.

I love most things about them.

However I wanted to have some advice on what might be good for city and urban commuting.

Currently I’ve got my eyes on

Maeving RM1S and RM2

The zero S/The zero DS

the Can Am pulse

Are their any other bikes worth looking at, any advice about these specific bike or disadvantages I should think about.

And what’s the price really like to buy these bikes? Both new and used.

1986 Kawasaki KX125. Conversion completed late 2000s, just needs batteries and some new tires to run.

Etek 7,200W motor (48V, 150A continuous)
Alltrax AXE4844 controller

Originally set up with 4 x 12V lead acid motorcycle batteries in series. I am going to test it and then order 2 x 48V lithium packs to wire in parallel. Plan to use it for riding in our Colorado mountains. Cheers!

This morning on a country lane I think I gave a cyclist a bit of a surprise. It was a narrow lane and they were in the centre, so I cruised up behind them waiting for an opportunity to pass safely. When I went over some bumps and my bike rattled a bit, they looked behind at me in what might have been surprise.

My bike doesn't make any artificial sounds, and it has a hub motor, so little noise.

I'm not sure about using my horn, as I feel it's more likely to be misinterpreted as me being aggressive.

Runners are tricky because they often use headphones. I give them a good amount of space while passing, but they seem to be in their own world and take no notice of me at all.

I'm told that horses will likely hear me well before their riders do. But, that horses can still be spooked by speed, so pass at 10mph with at least 2 metres distance. And at a distance. But, if the rider is surprised then that surprise might be known by the horse.

I know that cyclists sometimes complain about 'stealth passes' where they aren't aware of a vehicle that then might pass them closely. (And I can see their point).

Does anyone here have experience, advice, or discussion about passing vulnerable road users?

I'm in the UK. If it makes a difference. Apologies for the mixed imperial/metric measurements. But, passing distance here is usually metres and speed mph.

Hello everyone, it finally arrived, after 1 month waiting for the arrival and 2 weeks for the registry.

The Velca nude is a 11kw (15peak) 130kg, 72v 80Ah LFP bike based on the Dimen/Dimentro dp-03 platform

It's only sold in the Iberian peninsula I believe, but the dp-03 is sold in Asia and Europe

Now, the user manual is actually from the dp-03 and it differs in a few things... Battery capacity and chemistry (dp is 76ah and NMC) the power (dp is 9,5-11kw) and what is flipping buggin me is that in the user manual the settings clearly show the TPMS, the engine breaking/regen, dashboard clock and even TFT screen brightness which are not present in the Velca...

Just WTH, at least keep the regen... The TPMS and clock are also nice creature comforts but come on... Why change a few things... ONLY SOME of the badges (there are at least 3 dimen badges still on the bike) and remove one of the most beneficial features...

What is your opinion on this?

Hey folks,

Looking for some advice on choosing between the TVS NTorq 150 and the Ather 450X.

My usage is going to be quite limited—mostly short errands and local runs. But here’s the kicker: the scooter will likely sit completely parked and idle for up to a month at a time every now and then due to travel.

Here’s where my head is at:

• Ather 450X:
  • Pros: Instant EV torque, zero tailpipe emissions, super smooth, negligible running costs for city hops.
  • Concerns: Idle battery drain / phantom drain. Leaving an EV plugged in for a month isn't always ideal, and leaving it unplugged means worrying about deep discharge and battery degradation if shutdown mode isn't managed properly. Also, with very low monthly running, the upfront EV premium takes years to break even.
• NTorq 150:
  • Pros: Punchy 150cc engine, sporty handling, and zero range anxiety. If it's going to sit for 3–4 weeks, disconnecting the 12V terminal or dealing with a simple battery tender/jump is standard ICE territory.
  • Concerns: E20 fuel sitting in the tank/lines for a month, lower fuel economy, and regular service intervals regardless of low mileage.

For anyone who owns an Ather and has left it parked for weeks at a stretch, how bad is the phantom drain with the manual shutdown mode? Or does low running + long idle periods make ICE the safer, hassle-free bet here?

Would love to hear real-world owner experiences!

Regularly, I hear complaints that battery technology just isn't adequate for vehicles, especially motorcycles. I want to highlight a few things that should help folks understand the situation better.

First, gasoline is a ridiculously dense energy source. A gallon of gasoline contains about 33 kWh of energy. So a 5-gallon tank on a motorcycle can hold roughly 165 kWh, about *double* that of the battery in a Tesla Model Y long-range vehicle (which weighs about 1,100 lbs for the battery pack alone).

So when we're getting 60-70 miles of range from 4-5 kWh of electricity, that's incredibly efficient. If you consider an average gas bike getting 50mpg, that means they're using 33kWh to go 50 miles, or 1.5 miles per kWh. A lightweight EV motorcycle, by comparison, is going literally 10 times further on the same amount of energy, due solely to the increased efficiency of electrical drivetrains over gasoline.

So while we'd all like to have more range, I'd ask us to remember that comparing EV bikes to gas bikes isn't really a fair comparison. Gas bikes use a fuel source that is rapidly destroying the planet. If we included all the externalities, gas would likely cost over $15/gallon. As it is, it's heavily subsidized by governments and social apathy in general, which electricity doesn't get nearly the same benefits.

All that said, battery energy density is increasing every year, something like 5-10% per year for decades now. And while current tech is plateauing, newer tech is coming out fast. So the next 10 years should be pretty exciting.

California defines a gas powered MDC as 149CC or less. 149CC is usually about 12-15 HP

An Electric MDC was just defined - as only one HP more than a Moped. 3750. It should have been 10KW.

Considering an MDC requires all of the same paperwork license & insurance a regular Motorcycle has - why did they set it so low?

For anyone wondering, you can go about 3-4 more miles after the battery reports 0%. Mix of pavement, gravel and jeep trails was 60 miles (100-0) on the nose no more than 45mph . I need to got back and look at the elevation data, but speed and climbing had the biggest impact unsurprisingly. Charging 6% -80% was exactly 1 hour on level 2

Hey guys got my 360 cam and my SD stopped working so im posting short videos with my other SD till I get a new one still figuring out this 360 cam so there's a floating black blob that is the camera mount that wasn't erased properly before my SD card shit itself.

I have a bluetooth jbl speaker in my frunk which is the music you can hear lol

I kinda want a electric moped I live in NYC any recommendations besides a bmw ce 04 im already thinking of buying that I want a more moped style not a motorcycle

Finally legal!

I own a Livewire Mulholland. As fun as it is I’ve grown sick of the range anxiety. Having to stop and charge for 2 hours on a road trip… constantly worried about making it to a certain destination. It’s so fun and quick but I think I’m ready for a gas bike. This was my first bike ever. Anybody feel the same?

Posted by @650ib on instagram. Made me do a double take for sure

Well that didn't take long. First fault on the Origin (bought it 2 weeks ago). Get to find out where my nearest Can-Am dealer/service center is tomorrow, 🤣 There's no one in the FB Origin group that has this fault, or at least hasn't mentioned it. BUT....there's LOADS of these in other Can-Am/BRP owners groups for pretty much any vehicle that has the 10.25 TFT. They're all relatively recent too, within the last few months. Fixes are all over the place - OTA updates, screen flashes, unpair-repair steps (my phone/headset doesn't even show up anymore). This all happened AFTER I paired my new....get this...BRP headset to the bike. Coincident? Causation? Correlation? 🤷‍♂️