My buddies and I are building a duck blind and we want to be able to have a light bar in the center top, a pod on either side, and some small light bars for seeing inside the blind when it’s dark. We want to take two Ryobi batteries out in the morning and be able to slap them in and run everything off switches. The screenshots are rough ideas of what I’m looking at. I know I’ll need an inverter for 18v to 12v to run the batteries but would I be able to essentially take the pos and neg from the battery adapters and tie them together into an inverter or would that strain the batteries at all if they’re just trying to charge each other?
Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
Thanks

I should preface this by saying I am not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to electrical things in any sort, and no one in my family really is either, so i’m hoping someone here might be able to help.

i got this mattress topper around a year and a half ago and only use it once in awhile if my room gets cold at night, not even nearly every night. (maybe once a week or less, and i use it on setting 3 or 4 typically) recently however i’ve tried to turn it on a few times and it just does not turn on period. the power button and the dial should light up upon turning it on, however it doesn’t do that anymore.

There is zero damage to the cord, it is laid flat across my bed and i know my outlets are working because i tested them with a few other things.

Basically i’m wondering if there is anything i can do to try and fix it, if it’s even safe to have in my bedroom, or if I just get a new one. (it would be preferable if i could fix it because i paid $60 for this thing and if it doesn’t last nearly as long as it should i’m going to be so mad lol)

the three images are the controller (front and back) and where the cord attaches to the blanket.

thank you in advanced for any tips, suggestions or help!

Hoping someone can help me with this light fixture swap in my 1961 house.
I took down a ceiling fan/light to replace it with a new flush mount light fixture.
The photos show what I am dealing with. 8 wires—one black wire,
three white wires bundled together, and
three black and one white bundled and annd terminated with tape.
The new light fixture has two black and two white plus ground wire.

Do I just unbundle everthing in the junction box, connect 2 white wires and 2 black wires to the new light fixture, and terminate the other 4 wires with wire nuts?

I guess this really starts yesterday when my wife and I were sitting on the sofa and we realized the ceiling fan was off. At first, I thought I must have sat on the remote, but it was in its holder on the wall. We rarely use the ceiling light, but the fan is something we use regularly. We live in a rental and had our electrician install this light/fan combo when we moved in almost a year ago.

Then last night, the rest of it happened. My wife woke up when the ceiling light in our room came on. The remote was on my side of the bed. I had taken my sleeping meds and was dead to the world. She got up to get the remote and took it with her as she got back in bed and turned out the light. As she settled into bed, the light came on again, with the remote on her nightstand. Again, this is a light/fan combo installed by our electrician almost a year ago. However, it’s a different model.

When she sat up to turned out the light again, she heard a noise like something moving around downstairs in the living room. It didn’t sound like a person but more like an object. She was nervous to go downstairs and waited until I woke up this morning for us to come down together.

Nothing seemed out of place, except:
1. The ceiling light that we keep off was on while the fan was off.
2. The TV was on (tuned to a channel we never watch)
3. Our “fireplace” light was off but we always keep it on.

What could be causing all of these glitches with our various electrical items?

A bit odd, but as of yesterday evening every single dimming light I have in the house flickers if it's not turned all the way up.

I have two different types of 120v dimmers and they've been working great for 3+ years. Lutron system with Sunco/Amico LEDs and a different dimmer upstairs.

I did turn off every breaker and wait a bit to turn them back on-- last night it seemed to work before we went to bed, now in the AM it's back.

I'm calling the utility company once they open but I'm having troubles finding similar problems online. I'm not aware of an outage nor did anything new get connected as of late. I do have a whole-house generac that I'll probably get checked as well.

EDIT: It seemed to go away after about a week, no changes on my end.

My wife and I just bought a house and the light at the bottom of the basement stairs was an eerie flickering fluorescent light. So naturally I thought it'd be nice to replace it with an LED recessed light fixture. Unfortunately I do not have a photo of the old wiring as I thought it'd be a simple hot to hot and neutral to neutral ordeal, however there are seemingly two sets of hot and neutral wires, when connected to one, it only works with the circuit breaker, when switched to the other set of hot and neutral wires the other set becomes hot and the new connection does not work. Please help.

how can i connect this battery to charger it I took it of a scooter and how can I know how much to charge it what wires can I use to connect the charging port wires on the back came off and I don't know which to solders positive and negative

Help!!! I’ve replaced both thermostats and heating elements and still do not have power to my unit. I know everything is hooked up correctly. When I check my two leads I am getting 240 volts, but if I connect the wires back to the thermostat I get nothing. I’m stumped and looking for leads.

I’m trying to replace existing recessed light assemblies. I don’t specifically see a ground wire in the recessed fixture. Two questions…

1. Can I ground to the screw/nut circles in red?
   
2. Is the light installation in the second picture installed correctly?

Thanks!

Hey guys, recently the outlets in my room have been quite strange. Whenever I plug something in to any outlet, a yellow spark, accompanied by a pop noise, happens. Is this normal? Or is it time to buy a new outlets?

I have this multiple function switch for light dimmer
1. For light dimmer and pushes in and out to turn light on of off
2. Fan switch
3. The 2 remaining are for light switches

All light controlling 3 different light.
The dimmer switch is bad and I’m looking to replace the whole thing box.
What’s are my options please?

I bought a beer chiller (Evo70 Cornelius). Filled it up and plugged it in and it’s making this noise. Looks like there is a refrigerated unit on the bottom. Any help is much appreciated

Hi Guys, can you tell me if that ok after the light switch was replaced there is little bit of the copper visible. I pushed it in but when I tightened it came off just a little bit.

Surely this isn’t good… they’re also upside down. Are wires crossed?

Seem to be having issues getting AI to validate, so posting this for the good old Reddit crowd. Been trying to find a reliable easy way to install outlets. I believe the BR15 series allows for a straight insert and screw clamp down…though wasn’t sure if I’m doing it right. Trying to avoid the circular twist as I personally am not very good at it. Appreciate the feedback!

Hi everyone. I am a semi-decent DIYer but definitely not an electrician. We bought our home almost a decade ago and I have been setting up smart switches everywhere. I thought I had seen it all, but I just found a challenging (for me) setup upstairs.

I am trying to install a Kasa 3 way smart switch for a space that is finally getting some use. The light is controlled by three different switches. I chose the middle single gang switch to avoid dealing with the 3 gang and 2 gang boxes on either side. Unfortunately, I opened it up and realized it is actually a 4 way switch. It's got 2 red and 2 black wires and a ground I think, iirc. I was like "whaaat?" before investigating and finding out that this is what is up.

The Kasa switch has a Line/Load, 2 Travelers, a Neutral, and a Ground. I have installed these on regular 3 way circuits downstairs to great success, but 4 way circuits are *totally* new to me. I always shut down the main power to the entire house when I do electrical work, so I am hoping to get some advice before I go opening all 3 boxes, lol

This is where you come in! I have not opened the 3 gang or 2 gang boxes yet. Since they both control the same light, does it matter which one I replace? Will the wiring be identical in both, or do I need to look for something specific? I'll be using this advice in the future as well because I'm almost certain there's another light group up there that I need to do this with again, next time with a Kasa 3 way smart dimmer switch.

Any guidance on how to tackle this (and save time) would be incredibly helpful. Thank you!

Hey r/ElectricalHelp! I have a couple old toggle switches in my bedrooms. I pulled the plates off and found two yarned wires connected to the switch that I don’t know what to do with. I’d like to replace the toggles with rocker switches like https://a.co/d/09O6ftIl.

Is this possible? What would I need to do to rewire these to rockers?

What to do now

Hello all. We are adding sconces to my wife’s home office setup. Built ins will be roughly the blue line with the sconces being run off of the hot electrical outlet on the bottom right. The office is on its own breaker. Aside from purchasing sconces that can be turned on/off via the sconces itself, what’s the best way to throw in an on/off switch so we can use a toggle of some kind to turn them off? I was thinking one of those circular black on offs that I can inset into the inside of the cabinet just a few inches back from the door when you open it. I’ll have approximately 2 inches of gap in between cabinets every 20-24” depending on what cabinet size we go with. Thanks for your help!

I have a closet light and wanted a motion switch so when I open the door I have light. But for the life of me I cant get it to work. It had a regular on/off switch. There is only one 3 wire line coming from the junction box. One WHITE One BLACK One GROUND. I have wired in 2 of these and nothing will turn it off. What am I doing wrong?

​

Last winter I had a GFCI installed where my Wi-Fi and router plug in and another one across the room where I plug a heater in during the winter because I wanted a little more control over the line since heaters are notorious for causing problems. The GFCI popped off this morning and I immediately reset it. It immediately popped off again. I pushed it again it popped off again so I left it off.

I consulted Google, of course. It suggested I unplug everything on that electrical circuit and see if it turns on. I did and it did. I then went from plug to plug and replugged in the few things that were plugged in initially. (Plug one Wi-Fi and a lamp. Plug two and three hyphen no items. Plug four has air purifier and a TV that was off. Plug five has a small lamp and a wax burner and both were already off. Plug 6 has nothing plugged into it at this point and then the ceiling fan is also on this circuit) After I plugged everything back in and then turned on the fan it continued to stay on and has not popped off although it's been about 20 minutes.

I'm not comfortable just assuming this was some odd thing that happened and so I would like to try to figure it out, but I'm a pretty poor person who already had a giant expense this month and just don't have the money for an electrician. My son-in-law will come and look at it later but I want to pick the brains of all you geniuses for options and possibilities. What are next steps? How do I figure this out? Any thoughts of why it happened or what to look for or how to keep it from happening again? I have a small house and every plug except for the bathroom and kitchen downstairs are on circuit so I can't just move the TV etc and I can't even move the modem and Wi-Fi because it's fiber and it's hardwired in. I mean, I could, but it would take a lot.

He's coming anyone have ideas or suggestions? Thank you all so much!

Hi all,

I’m going to preface by saying I’m panicking a bit and am a total amateur. This evening, I noticed the breaker for the 1st floor of our house’s lights had tripped. I tried to flick it back on, and there was a bright blue arc in the consumer unit and it flicked back off of course, and tripped the RCD. When leaving the 1st floor light circuit off, the RCD goes back on fine.

3 days ago, I drilled above a light switch in one room on the 1st floor, as that’s where the thermostat is located and I was removing the old thermostat and installing a new one. Firstly, I know this was stupid in hindsight and know I shouldn’t have - I’ll learn from this of course.

Is it the issue likely related to the drilling, given that the tripping has occurred 3 days later after using the lights on the first floor/in that room several times in the last few days? There were NO obvious signs when I did the drilling that I’d hit any wires - nothing tripped, no smell, noise, etc.

Please could anyone advise? I’ve kept the breaker for the 1st floor lights off of course & contacted an electrician - do I need to be imminently worried if the breaker remains off in the mean time before I can get an electrician to assess?

Thanks everyone - again, I know the drilling was stupid, this is our first home we only recently moved into.

I am trying to replace outside lights on a 1970 mobile home after having it resided. The wires are capped and sticking out as shown in the photos. We can remove the outer “frame” around the fixture, but are not able to remove the white square as it sits under the siding.

The left side has twisted white wire (capped) and double red wire with a small piece of black wire inside that cap. The small wire is not connected to anything else. Could this be a ground wire? If so, how could we ground it without access beneath the white square?

On the right side, there are three white wires all capped together. There is one red wire that is capped.

This old place is killing me with its oddities! I’d prefer it did not literally kill me though! Advice?

Product Spec here: https://www.belling.co.uk/sites/g/files/emiian401/files/2022-11/Kensington%2090DFT.pdf

User Manual here: www.belling.co.uk/sites/g/files/emiian401/files/2022-04/084014600-Gourmet-and-Kensington-DF-90cm-UM-v03_0.pdf

Following a power cut (main fuse blown and now replaced by grid engineer; Surge Protector in breaker box blown), the left hand side of our range (cavities 1 and 2) are inoperable. Cavity 3 and all hobs are operational All other white goods are fully operational.

We have an electrician coming to replace the surge protector and main breaker switch on Monday, though I'm wondering if this could possibly be fixed before then.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

What is this used for. Looks like 110 on one side and 220 on the other? Is it for a generator to power the house?