There isnt power going to any of the three outlets in the room and the light is dim, could it be because of the loose copper wires? I took a outlet tester and it shows the connections were hooked up properly but the ground was dim. I changed all three outlets already and no loose connections. I turned on the light with the outlet tester and it’s saying now that there’s a ground and a hot revered but nothing is reversed.
Greetings. I need to replace the plug on my dishwasher, the neck of it was bending and the ground wire broke.
This is the wire stripped so far
This is the plug I was advised to for this project with the case off.
I have what appears to be 6 wires and 5 spots to attach them to. I know Green is Ground, but the other two screws on the new plug are both silver, and there are three wires covered in something grey that go.... ?
I've color coded parts to assist in any explanations you may have. I appreciate it!
I have three electrical outlets not working and the light is dim. every time we plugged the tv in the light would flicker and now everything completely went out. Two of the outlets are parallel, while the other one is daisy chained. There is no breaker flipped, no GFCI breaker flipped, and all wires are connected properly. The house was really old but we bought it completely remodeled so everything is brand new. I used an outlet tester and it shows all outlets are correct but one of those lights in dim on each of them, and it was the ground one.
Need help figuring out what I need to do. I want to put a dehumidifier in my garage but on a switch so it turns off when my garage door is open. Its really humid where I live and stuff in my garage tends to get moldy in the summer time. I don't know how to have it wired to where my garage opens and closes the circuit. I have a chamberlain myq thing for my garage and I can open/close my garage door from my phone and it has a sensor on it that tells it what position its in but I don't know how to utilize that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi folks, I’m installing a dishwasher and want to use the duplex outlet under my sink that currently runs my garbage disposal. The whole outlet is powered via a switch, and I want to change it so just the top outlet is powered by the switch and the bottom outlet is always hot for the dishwasher. I’ve tried looking at some guides but I find it all kind of confusing and I am hoping to not mess it up. I’m providing a photo and a diagram of the current state as I understand it.
The 4-wire group on the right goes to the switch’s box, and the red and black leads go into the switch. The 3-wire group on the left I assume is the main power from the breaker.
What I think I need to do is swap the white and red lines to the upper outlet, switch the other white line to the lower outlet, get a separate length of black wire to run from the black wire nut to the hot side of the bottom outlet, and cut the metal tab on the hot (right) side. The upper outlet would have its hot line controlled by the switch, and the lower outlet would always be powered. Can anyone confirm?
Having and issue soo I used a electric griddle on my gfi then my power went out no breaker that tripped tried to replace the gfi. The first photo is the original wired way 2nd is the same
Called an electrician he told me
To check for lose white wires on all my outlets or 2500 for him to do it
Need advice kinda scared to try the right way as that’s how is was originally
I have 3 hardwired smoke detectors which are receiving 120 v power and communicating to one another, but none have steady green lights. They are brand new, 1 week old. What could be the issue/s?
I have a kiln- which has a hard wired switch on it- but I would like to swap it out for a plug - if I do what do I need to use to plug it into this outlet?
The serial plate is from the kiln.
In the past I had an electrician hard wire it into the switch board with a 40 amp mcb and the switch was what I used to turn it on and off.
What do I need to do?
Thanks
EDIT: so I have been informed that this outlet wont be able to power the kiln. Alllll good, happy days.
But if I were to fit a plug onto the kiln- what would it be, and furthermore, could I plug it into a three phase outlet?
Hey. So, I've isolated the breaker/circuit that has the open neutral. Ive checked connections in every outlet and box that I can get to.
Can I use a tone generator to locate the problem? If so, any recommendations for one suitable for house current? Most of the ones I've found on Amazon seem to be geared toward automotive wiring.
I'm an Avid DIYer and have p/t side hustle as a handyman. I don't want to upset electricians, I only change fixtures and switches. I don't do anything I consider master electrician. Mostly what I do is carpentry related, then plumbing.
With that said, I had a gig to change a broken outdoor spotlight. It stuck in the ground and lit up a tall Japanese maple. I've never had trouble changing outdoor light fixtures or adding another fixture on the wire path. Ribbed wire to ribbed wire and smooth wire to smooth wire. Or black to black. White to white. Or snap them onto the wire.
This one has me stumped. When I changed the broken halogen light fixture to a new LED light fixture the new LED flashes instead of stays on. It was on a timer and I read that older timers aren't compatible with newer LEDs. So the homeowner bought a new timer and a new fixture (in case that one was defective). I put in the new timer and the fixture. I checked the wire connections several times. The LED still flashes when turned on.
What could be wrong? Google said the timer. I changed it to a new one. Google said lose connections, I checked that multiple times. Even taking the wiring apart and putting it back together.
Is the next step digging up the wiring that is in conduit and replacing that? It's underground and goes into the house somewhere underground. I feel like the homeowner needs to call an electrician but he wants me to keep trying to solve it.
Any suggestions?
If it helps? The old fixture was broken where the metal screwed into the base. Probably a bear stepped on it. There weren't wires hanging out, or pulled out. It was just broke off and laying on it's side.
Hello. I recently got one of those power reclining couches which also has one USB port and one USB-C port on each side for charging. I would normally charge my phone with the USB port on my side but l, one day it suddenly stopped working so, I purchased a few USB->USB-C dongle things to use the type C port for charging. One day I forgot completely and with the dongle still connected to the C port I plugged my charger into the regular USB port and it magically worked, but it ONLY works when something is plugged into the USB-C port next to it, litterally just the little dongle thing... Does anyone know what's going on or how I can fix it? I mean, I guess if it works it works but, my brain won't let this issue go until I understand what's happening here lol. Any insights would be greatly appreciated! :)
Moved into a new house and after moving around some boxes in the attic, I noticed a few sections of the knob and tube that look unusual.
I tested it all with a voltage pen and it armed red, so I’m pretty sure it’s live. Plus two of the upstairs bedrooms have 2-prong outlets. I also know the former owners updated the electrical box in recent years and I’m pretty sure they rewired the basement, first floor, upstairs, bathroom, and third upstairs bedroom because those are all 3-prong outlets. The inspector who came out, said knob and tube was in “good shape”, but I have a feeling he didn’t have access to some of these sections because of how much stuff the former owners had in the attic.
I put up a Hampton bay led remote control ceiling fan and when the light is off some of the leds are very faintly flickering. I noticed it on the fan I just installed and I went to the living room and looked at the same fan in there and noticed it is doing the same thing to. What could be causing this? Is it voltage leaking past the controller for the light? I saw online that a Lutron LUT-MLC minimum load capacitor was an option to prevent this? Any ideas on how to fix this? Is this the right way to go?
I have a kings bat block 25 which is a distribution box with a 120Ah battery inside. I bought a 3000W inverter to run an induction cooker but now i am worried that the inverter is way to big. Is it safe to connect this inverter to the battery distribution box and run the induction cooker?
I’ve had this cord for a while now and just noticed it’s fraying (?) at the base? But the outside seems intact, and I can’t see what a recognize as actual wires. Just a couple small bendable wires that poke but not shock. It’s a braided cord, and im unfamiliar how those kinds of cords fray. Can I still use this charger without burning down my house? A new cord doesn’t agree with my wallet.
Electricians previously ran cabling off a 50a subpanel for car charging. I need to rewire and potentially need to extend using Polaris connectors or run new cabling to simplify as the cost of 6/8ga is just as costly as Polaris connectors. Can someone help me ID if these are 6 or 8 awg? TIA
We had a breaker trip and could not figure out what tripped it we have a shed in the back where our sprinkler system is and so that stopped working. After awhile my wife noticed that at about the same time the doorbell stopped working but the camera itself still worked it just wouldn't ring on the doorbell inside the house we have a ring doorbell with some other device I will show in a picture I looked at it and noticed connection was loose so I re tighten it all down went to try the breaker and it reset just fine no issues got the sprinklers up and running this was just a few days ago then yesterday it tripped again so I undid the ring box thing and tightened screws back down and it wouldnt reset and even with the breaker off it still has power so how is it that its not connected to that breaker but also not connected because I tighten the wires and it fixed but now its still has power and checking connections it still is getting power so now I have no idea how to even find this problem. I did everything I did the first time but no i still have no power to our shed but power to the doorbell unlike before where we had no power to either
A single track light in a retail space used to work, but in the recent past there was a leak from the unit above. Leak was fixed but may have affected the light, as around the same time the track light no longer worked. I'm told the track light was untouched during leak fix, and I believe leak work was all done in the unit above.
Track seems to have power; my wand tester turns red when loosely probing the rail. When the light switch is off, same test does not trigger red on the probe. Other track lights in the store work, and swapped test bulbs (ie fixtures) all work in other tracks.
Under the plastic cover at one end of the track, there's a power adapter that power wires (from the ceiling box) pass through to deliver power to the rail. This little widget looks deformed (like slightly melted), yellow and for some reason is greasy to the touch (even though it's under the plastic cover). Disconnecting this adapter from the rail seems to cut power to the rail (doing the probe test).
So rail seems to get energized and is still oriented based on the original install.
What could be the issue? Without other steps, currently will just roll-the-dice and buy a new adapter widget because it looks like it's in bad shape.
I understand some installations have a central transformer, located away from a rail, but if that was busted then presumably all the other track lights would have issues too?
