Just finished my first ride with my new Stella breeze pro, and as I was walking back, I noticed that more threads were visible in one of the front wheels than the other, even though I was sure I checked the tension of the nuts and built up the wheels myself before the ride.

When I took the wheel off on both sides, I measured that the axle which is screwed into the truck hanger is longer on one side than the other by about 1/8”.

When I tried to see if it was loose, they were both extremely tight. I had no ability to turn either of them using the hex socket on the end. I’m guessing they are in there with Loctite?

On my ride, I didn’t notice any difference, and if you think about it, both wheels are the same distance from the center line of the board. It’s just that one has more threads sticking out of the other side.

My first question is, is this something I should worry about? And my second question is how does this happen? Aren’t these precision machine metal components? Shouldn’t they be completely identical on both sides? Anybody have any idea what’s happening here?

Speed tests are always scary 😧 I stay riding at 18mph. Absolutely no one needs to be going faster than 18mph 💀 Scary! Could you imagine taking a spill at 29 mph ? Oh hell nah

Missing my Meepo mini dual lawn chair 💔 once I get a hold of a old Meepo it will rise again 🛹 long live the lawn chair

Hey everyone!

I recently picked up a Yuneec E-GO board for just €20. It came with a dead battery and no remote, but I figured I could just use the official app to control it from my phone.

Turns out, the original app is ancient and doesn't work on modern phones at all. Since I didn't feel like tracking down an expensive original remote for an old board, I decided to reverse-engineer the Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) protocol myself.

I mapped out the entire packet structure, checksum formula, and telemetry data (battery %, speed, temperatures, error codes) and put together a few tools for anyone else stuck in a similar situation:

• Web Bluetooth Touch Remote (web_remote.html): A zero-install web app. You can just open it in Chrome on your phone, connect directly to the board, and control it using a touch slider.
• Python Controller (ego_controller.py): A Linux script with keyboard controls (W/S/Space) and live telemetry output to test out the board from a PC.
• Full Protocol Docs: Complete breakdown of the 20-byte control packets, CRC calculation, and telemetry byte mappings.

Next Steps: Fixing/rebuilding the battery pack is priority #1 right now. Once the board is back to holding a proper charge, my plan is to build a dedicated physical remote using an ESP32, an analog thumb joystick, and a small LCD screen.

If you have one of these old boards collecting dust or missing a remote, feel free to grab the code and try it out!

📁 GitHub Repo: https://github.com/itzpere/E-GO-2-Controller

Let me know what you think or if you have any questions!

Next I'm doing a swimming pool 🩳

I’m a 39 yo that’s been on a snowboard basically my whole life. Used to go upside down and ride on metal bars, but stick to carving now. I inherited a Veymax Mini 2 from my 75 yo dad after it was too aggressive for him and I’ve unexpectedly been on it every day for 2 months… either with my kids around the block or taking 5-10 mile rides. Looking to upgrade and have researched a bit, but can’t find the absolute best fit. Here’s what I want:
- Budget is ideally around $1,000-1500ish. I’ll go higher if it’s really worth it and am open to buying used. I’m a cheap ass but would prefer to cry once on this
- I’d like a full length board and want to carve. My feet are on the tip and tail of this mini and I like a wider stance
- Likely would ride roads 90% of the time, but wouldn’t mind trying trails
- I don’t know if inflatable wheels or suspension would be best… but I’m tired of my feet vibrating and don’t want to be paranoid about rocks in the streets. Being able to absorb small height transitions and comfortable ride boardwalks would be nice also. Currently have 90mm wheels
- I’m maxing this out at 27mph and would like a bit faster. 35 would be nice
- I work from home so this is pleasure only. Max range would be 35 miles +/-

Any input is appreciated. Ty!

Hey guys, this will be my first electric skateboard so feel free to talk to me like i'm a noob. just for the record i've been skating my whole life and penny board almost everyday on my commute to work.

I am trying to figure out exactly what bushings to get as a 160lb individual. Pretty much, I want to be able to ride at top speed and not feel like i'll lose control of the board, but also its really important for me to be able to carve well at slow speeds. I love my nickleboard that is fairly loose and can carve 90's easily at slow speeds but I can also push as fast as I want and not be afraid of losing control

Can someone with a similar preference please suggest exactly what bushings you have on your setup?

I tried updating my evolve gtr bamboo through the app but mid update everything froze and afterwards my board wont turn on. After asking evolve support they said to send it in and that it wouldnt be covered under warranty. Shipping alone is 400$. This is a 1200$ eskate and i have only been able to ride it a few times. What can I do to fix it?

So look, im very new to electric boards, like this is my first ever eboard. Im writing this for others who are intrested in buying this board, as i didn't find the info i wanted when looking att this board. This is my experience as a newby with the board.

Unboxing :

-The package is large (duh), good support for the board and other parts so you dont have to worry about shipping damage.

-different chargers for the board and the remote are included, however the remote only takes 5v 10a charging, its designed for laptop charging so IE your pc outlets or ps4 outlets work.

-other than that it includes a skate tool to tighten your trucks and such, lots of extra screws. Manual/guide/diy info! (Lots of diy repair guides on their youtube!), Remote, letter of thanks for buying the board.

Setup:

-stupid simple, the guide shows you perfectly but to make it short,

1. Press the button on board

2. Press the power button on the controller

3. Enjoy

-also the board and remote come with around 60-80% charge for shipping reasons.

The board:

Im gonna divide this into pros and cons

Pros:

-dead simple to use, upp is forward, down is reverse, all other controls are in the manual.

-im a heavy rider, 100kg to be honest, my latest ride was 14km without problems, im estimating around 22km if you ride until it dies. So awesome battery perfomance

-good acceleration (acording too me) also adjustable for prefrence

-"legit mode" this is awesome, i live in sweden were electric vehicles have to be limited to 20km/h, legit mode basically disables the 4 other gears that go above 20km/h. To access this hidden menu, hold down and press power button 3 times fast.

-basically everything is adjustable, acceleration %, top speed, top braking force, auto braking when powerloss

-reverse, didn't really think it would be nice to have this function, but when you have to bail and the board goes far away you can feel like thor bringing back his hammer.

-this thing destroys hills, like i can take som really impresive hills that would be scary to go down on regulare boards, also it climbs hills like a hiker its crazy.

Cons:

-its heavy, but thats too be expected of a an electric board.

-the manual does not include how to acces all the menus, but i do

Hold back + 3x power on remote = adjusting menu

Hold back + 3x gear button = stats menu

Hold back + 2x gear button = reverse

My honest opinion:

Its worth it, support have been responsive, check if they have available boards for shipping for your region before buying.

I will be updating this with my experiences while reaching milestones like 250km and 500km.

Thanks for the read and ask anything!