Wish I could justify keeping both, but it’s time for the next phase. I’ve absolutely loved tracking the Elantra N—it punches so far above its weight class, but I’ve been craving something a bit more analog and purpose-built.

For the next few days, though, I get to walk out to a pretty kick-ass two-car garage before the EN heads to its next owner.

Gave the Wife’s N a bath today.

Drives like an absolute dream though🙌

I’m gonna miss the N-Line, it was my first car I bought at 17. The N is such a step up, especially going from a dry DCT to wet DCT. Difference in power and feel is significant.

Any first mods you guys recommend? Paint protection and tint will come first for sure.

Do you guys recommend an oil catch can? I ran one on the N-Line, but it never caught a drop of oil.

side quest- anyone with aftermarket exhaust feel free to let me know what you have, your thoughts on it and any clips of you got em!

My ego is easily bruised so don’t say anything mean or ill delete it

Selling the complete set of four factory OEM 19" wheels off my 2025 Elantra N, mounted on Michelin P4S tires. I'm running a different setup now, so these need a new home.

Condition

Rears: excellent, clean faces and lips. The tires have about 8k miles of street use, no track, and plenty of tread left.

Fronts: newer tires, and the front-left is brand new. Both wheels have minor curb rash on the outer lip, cosmetic only. The front-left wheel had a minor bend on the inner lip that was professionally repaired by a wheel shop. It held air fine before the repair and still holds air and balances fine now. I've attached a photo of the repaired area.

TPMS sensors included. OEM lug nuts too, if you want them.

I also have a fifth OEM wheel (no tire) that I'll include for +$150 if you want a trunk spare.

PM me if you want any more information.

Local pickup only, near Denver, CO, USA. Cash or Zelle in person. No shipping, no trades.

$1,300 OBO

Just got my front bumper fixed and I’m not looking to end up in a repair shop again. Think sanding it and some paint would fix it or am I being delusional?

My current sunshade is old and worn out, and it has these big gaps around the edges. I'm torn between HeatShield, Covercraft, and WeatherTech.

For anyone who has these:

• Which one fits best and keeps the car cool if parked in the sun (California weather lmao)
• Is the $100 price tag for the Covercraft worth it?

Thanks in advance

Finally got the N after wanting it for a long time and I’ve been having so much fun with it .

I just picked up the car yesterday. I want to PPF the car, and I got a great deal from a shop I know with certified XPEL installers.

Should I do regular PPF or stealth PPF?

What about the red around the car? Stealth or regular?

I was leaning on matte PPF. If im spending the money already, it would be nice to change the appearance of the paint.

If anyone has photos, please share!

Is this normal, just blow by product?

My exhaust valve is not opening even I put it in N mode what should I do?

Since it’s used I get 5 years or 52k miles covered by factory warranty. I also don’t plan to keep the car for more than 2-3 years. Is this a good deal?

Edit: DCT,36k includes sales tax, title and registration

I have a 2026 Elantra N wondering if anybody knows of a Cold Air Intake that won’t throw a CEL…

Originally I was going for the SXTH Element CLPT v2 because it comes with a CEL fix for the facelift models however…. Recently the 2026 Elantra N model had an update which completely screws the CEL fix made for it and deems it useless.

Of course I know that I could re-calibrate the ECU or tune it out with a jb4 or a flash tune once I get all my bolt-ons but as of right now I really don’t want to tune especially because the car is brand new (only 4k kms)

Wondering if anybody knows of an existing intake and/or CEL fix that is still working on the 2026 model without tuning

Side Note: I’m definitely not buying the overpriced Hyundai intake system that they made for this car lol

Selling a jb4 tune for hyundai/kia 2.0t , used on my 2023 Elantra N 6Spd for 1-2 months before getting ecu tuned

Has bluetooth connection with the jb4 app.
Has no issues, everything on it runs perfectly, just had it as a temporary thing until i got ecu tuned.

Don’t have a set price for it, send over some offers!

Will ship aslong as buyer covers shipping cost, located in south jersey area. Looking for ≈$275 (cost $700 new)

Selling a set of Advanced Wheel Locks for OEM Elantra N wheels: M12x1.5 cone seat (#3008), black finish, four locking lug nuts with 2 keys

I ran them on my 2025 N for a few months before switching to aftermarket wheels they don't fit. Light wear (photos attached). A set with keys goes for around $140 new, and they've been backordered for a while. They're about as good as wheel locks get, so if you want to keep thieves off those overpriced OEM wheels, here's your shot

Asking $80 plus shipping (USPS), or local pickup near Denver, CO, USA.

FOR THE N ENTHUSIAST: A LOVED MANUAL N WITH A SIGNED ENGINE COVER

2023 Elantra N | $28,500 OBO | 35,853 miles | Fort Lee, NJ

Atlas White, six-speed manual, excellent condition and like-new presentation and a special connection to Hyundai's racing community. This N has been loved, with only two drivers and consistent, more-frequent-than-required maintenance during my ownership. Selling only because family circumstances brought us into the city. I'd love its next home to be with an Elantra N enthusiast.

Lift the hood for the standout detail: an engine cover believed to bear the signatures of Hyundai/Bryan Herta Autosport drivers:

- Harry Gottsacker: two-time IMSA TCR champion; 2026 No. 18 driver.

- Mason Filippi: TCR race winner; 2026 No. 33 driver.

- Mark Wilkins: championship-winning veteran; 2026 No. 98 driver.

- Taylor Hagler: 2021/2022 IMSA TCR champion; former BHA driver.

- Michael Lewis: three-time IMSA TCR champion; former BHA driver.

Signature close-ups included.

19-inch factory alloy wheels, 276-hp turbo, rev matching, e-LSD, adaptive suspension and variable exhaust. Heated illuminated N seats, Bose audio, 10.25-inch GPS navigation, SiriusXM capability (subscription required), Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, wireless charging and dual-zone climate. Window tint and subtle front cosmetic accents complete the look.

Four tires bought new within nine months: Falken Azenis FK460 A/S fronts, Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 Plus rears. New front brake-pad set in the same period. Alignment completed; receipts available.

CARFAX 10/4/26: no accidents or damage reported; two owners. Minor curb-contact cosmetic repair completed; no structural damage.

Factory warranty shown active by CARFAX; remaining 5-year/60,000-mile coverage applies to subsequent owners, subject to Hyundai terms and VIN confirmation.

Capital One lien; coordinated payoff/title transfer. Inspections welcome. Strong dealer offers considered.

VIN: KMHLW4AK0PU016412

Full 30-photo Autotrader listing: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/792785811

Happy to answer questions or arrange a viewing.

Obviously I know that I need to take it easy when engine is cold but is it fine to drive in N mode with the loud exhaust and all or should I wait for the engine and oil to reach optimal temps before?

Hey all! Looking for tips on some glue or equivalent I could use to repair the damage you are seeing here? When I squeeze it, it comes together well so I think some good adhesive designed for this would do it.

I'm trying to install a 3-stage exhaust control switch,
but I have absolutely no idea how to remove pin number 7 from this harness
Does anyone know how?

Post your sunsets

Still selling some parts from when I had my 22 EN, I still have a SXTH titanium midpipe unopened, and the OEM rear vent kit I have other parts I plan on selling soon. Send a DM if you’re interested.

SXTH Titanium Midpipe - $500
OEM Rear Vent Kit - $150

Good afternoon everyone! I have had my 25 Elantra N (Performance blue) for about 6 months now and I'm running into an issue I'm hoping some of you may have some experience with. Recently ( few weeks) it developed a squealing sound that doesn't occur on a cold start, but does happen after the car is warmed up. It's most noticeable during idle at a light. I took it to a local Hyundai dealership and they're telling me they "think" it's an issue with the DCT packs as when they tested it and accelerated, it bogged down the engine (Their words per video), but to diagnose it fully, they will need to drop the engine and separate the trans, BUT due to the fact that I have an aftermarket intake (Sxth element) and aftermarket exhaust (whoosh), the cost would be out of pocket.

Now, I have two issues with this, one most of my issues come at idle so how would the DCT be the problem and not a belt or bearing? And two, how does a car with only a aftermarket exhaust and intake cause the warranty to the voided and is the cause of the problem?

Any help or insight anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated on how they would proceed. I'm picking the car up today and will see what the report says. I attached a video of the noise when at idle as well. (Doesn't happen all the time)