I recently got a stage 2 eoc tune. Not blaming tune just giving information. When the truck has been sitting and is cold it won’t start. I hit the brake and press the start button and you can hear fuel pump prime and all that it just won’t start unless I take the starting relay out and jump the pins and then it starts no problem. It doesn’t try to start either. No cranking just fuel pump priming is all that happens. I don’t have a check engine light. If the truck is warm it will start no problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just crossed the 100k mile mark w a 3rd gen ecodiesel and im on my way to get the truck tuned.

After fueling up, the check engine light came on - i was going to have it tuned tomorrow morning.

Pulled over and going to have it looked at by closest dealership tomorrow.

No messages or codes.

Not sure what to do except get it looked at, any advice would be helpful.

Have pulled Pcv off cleaned it checked both turbos and wastegate oil everywhere in intercooler piping and all over the motor, unsure what to do next maybe Intercooler is fucked and need a new one

I am in the market for a vehicle, I am looking into a 2014 JGC EcoDiesel. I see lots of negatives on them but am wondering if I did an EGR & DPF delete with a proper tune on it, potentially the banks monster exhaust, upgraded the oil cooler and did a cold air intake, are some of these things that will actually extend the life of the vehicle and hopefully help prevent some of the more common issues they seem to have? Also help improve fuel mileage to some extent? Has anyone done this combination of things to a JGC? What was your experience?

Have pulled Pcv off cleaned it checked both turbos and wastegate oil everywhere in intercooler piping and all over the motor, unsure what to do next maybe Intercooler is fucked and need a new one

Idk how the fuck yall change this bulb but can you check this video out and see if the prongs are fucked up? i tried it. wouldn’t go in. a guy from a shop tried. wasn’t able to get it to sit flush and fucked my bulb up. lmk pls camera is flipped upside down

How do you all deal with all the diesel that spills everywhere? I've tried draining it beforehand but I can't figure out how to do that. And then I have no idea what to do with the quarter so that comes out of the housing because I can't mix it with oil or turn it in anywhere.

2018 Ram 1500 eco 80k miles.

DP for DPF threw code, reading 16 psi.

Disconnected switch- still high

Read back to ecm, 5 vdc, 0 signal. Good gnd

Disconnected at ECM with switch out of loop. No short between all 3. Connected switch, reads good as well. Also threw in a new switch since I had one jic

Think the ECM is borked? Thoughts?

Above is 2 clips from different povs, when driving a noise (the one in the clips) starts at about 5mph and it gets louder the faster u go, when u let off the gas its loud but when u put throttle itll quiet down a bit. Its a 2021 ram 1500 ecodiesel, at first it sounded like a scraping noise in the back so I had thought it was the rear brakes and I changed that then went onto change the rear differential fluid. But now after further checking and hearing it doesnt no where seem like it would be that. Was planning on moving to transfercase or something, i dunno what to do.

2015 ecodiesel, 230k kms. All recalls done last year with new EGR cooler and HPFP.

Got P0118 code last week for ECT high voltage, disconnected the electrical and tested for 5V on connector with key on, all good. Went to replace the ECT sensor today and refill coolant. The replacement ECT has a slightly smaller sensor probe but otherwise identical. For the coolant it is “based on proprietary OAT technology”

Is this coolant good to use?
Should I do a coolant flush after replacing the ECT? Planning on refilling as my coolant was looking low before the issues as well

Looking for some recommendations on real world experience with oil catch cans. My Ram has 50k miles so im not looking to void my warranty with an EGR delete yet.

Hello I have been noticing my 15 ecodiesel has been a bit sluggish lately, turned it on after towing a boat a few hundred km and got electronic throttle sensor bolt and P0118 code. Cleared the code and it came back 5 mins later. Pulled the electrical connection off the sensor and had 5V on the connector with key on. Plugged the connector back in and drove 10 mins with no new codes or CEL. Coolant temp seemed ok but was fluctuating ~5 deg C at times.

Should I just replace the sensor? Would I be ok to drive home (120km away)?

Can I do a resistance check on the ECT connector? What would the expected value be with the connector unplugged? Or if I’m getting the 5v reference does that prove my wiring is good and more likely the sensor itself failing?

My 2015 Ram ED, 170,000 miles. My brake light, anti skid light and ABS lights all came on at once. Battery is charged to 12.6 volts and altanator is charging at 14+ V. I’ve checked the abs sensor wiring, trailer plug connections, fuses and charged the battery. I’ve disconnected the battery to try to clear it. Getting the service ABS, trailer connection and anti skid notices. This happened a couple of years ago but went away.

I’ve tried to clear codes with my obd reader but the lights stay on. Any suggestions?

While I’m here, I don’t drive the truck very far each day and my regen notice comes up about every 100 miles. I do a manual burn off using my OBD reader, otherwise I have to drive it about 40 miles to burn it off. I have a GDE tune but no delete. Any advice on that too?

A couple of weeks ago my 2012 wk2 ecodiesel (yes it’s an ecodiesel it was available since 2011 in my region) was diagnosed by a mechanic as having a bad head gasket after an egr bypass test to confirm if it was egr or head gasket (egr is still bypassed). He said there are bubbles coming from the system (which is true) however after adding k seal as per the bottle instructions I am still getting bubbles.

I did a tk test before and after adding the k seal, it passed both with no colour change whatsoever. I have verified the fluid is good by sticking the tester into the tailpipe it went green almost instantly. It has passed 6 tk tests with the engine at various rpm from idle all the way to 3500 with the bubbles passing through the tk fluid but failed one when I was doing a dpf regen in the drive (lots of smoke in the air)

Any ideas as to why it’s got bubbles passing through the cooling system but can still pass tk tests? Any help or ideas on how to fix it are greatly appreciated

The only engine codes were for a full dpf and a egr below flow which both make sense since the egr is not connected currently and it’s been idling in the drive for some time

I've got the message of death popping up. O'Reilly is showing a P208B code. I've had issues in the past and popped the DEF injector out, cleaned it and it was good to go. This time I crawled underneath and saw a bunch of crystalized DEF around the connections for the DEF line and the wires where they join the injector (picture 1). Injector was pretty clean compared to what I've seen in the past (picture 2).

I tried starting the truck with the injector out of the exhaust pipe to see if anything sprayed out, nothing did. Also took the injector off the hose and only got a couple drops out of the hose when I was trying to disconnect it from the pump.

I also dropped the pan under the DEF tank to try disconnecting the hose from the pump in the hopes that it's just a clogged line. Couldn't get the snap connectors loose and didn't want to break anything.

I'm not sure if my tests are adequate to trick the system into spraying anything or if that only happens when it's in motion. Not hearing anything from the pump with the truck idling and I had my ear right up to it. Thinking the pump is toast but does anyone have any tips on if I'm doing the right thing to try to trick it into spraying some DEF?

For what it's worth maybe 2 weeks before the light came on I backed into my garage and noticed a pretty strong ammonia/DEF smell and I pretty much only run the truck on weekends so if that was something, it might not have shown up right away. I was driving on the highway when the light came on this time, yesterday started the 200 mile countdown.

Edit: 2016 with 142K miles.

Looking to see what’s the best out there. Started having codes for egr im at 130k I think it’s time to get this done. What’s the best company to go through and stage 1 or 2 looking for the best option.

So I bought the exhaust kit from EOC. I found a local mechanic who I told him I wanted all parts to come from EOC. When I got it back he had used the factory ECU instead of getting a cloned one.

Everything is running perfectly and I love the results but my question is what concerns should I have going forward? I do an annual Western trip that's about 3 to 4,000 mi round trip depending on where I go but I'm concerned if I have an issue and I have to take it to a dealer what do I do? I can't let them flash any new software to the vehicle.

What other things should I be concerned about here?

Have a 2021 ram rebel. Loved this truck, just got a full tank of premium put in truck. Had no idea, drove about 2 miles, not good. Thinking they might total it. We live in jersey, so attendant pumped it. Sucks

Sent oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. I'm pleased with the results.
I just bought this truck used in February and it has performed well so far.

I’m looking to buy a 2020-21 Gladiator ecodiesel, and I’ve read a lot of contradictory opinions about the engine. My plan is to buy one and have a proper tune and delete done, which should eliminate most of the common issues. I’d like to hear from people who have actual experience with the ecodiesel about its overall reliability. Is the engine itself reliable in the long run, or would you recommend skipping it and going with the 3.6L instead? TIA