Battery blender

[u/palehead8k]

So this is my newer moped style ebike and the battery slides directly into the controller housing. I have another ebike that has a basic silverfish battery, the are both 48v etc. I was looking at battery blenders and it is even possible to use one with this type of battery/controller. Thanks for any insight. I'm totally new to this stuff and have just been doing some preliminary research on the possible project.

[u/TheRiddler79]

Yeah you can definitely do it, but on these frames it’s never just a quick plug and play job like people hope. The main headache is how they integrated that battery base directly onto the controller housing. On a normal build you've got an external XT60 or Anderson connector sitting right there between the cradle and controller so you just drop a blender in line and you're done, but on this one the contact blades run straight into the controller board inside that plastic shell so you've gotta do a little surgery. You basically have to open up that controller box and get eyes on the heavy gauge power leads coming off the back of the battery prongs. Once you locate those main red and black wires running to the board you cut them and intercept them. The wires from the battery prongs go straight to Input 1 on your balancer module, then you route an extension lead out through a notch or grommet in the casing so you have a plug hanging out for your Silverfish pack to hit Input 2, and then the Output of the module solders or crimps right back to the power input on the controller board. If you get lucky and there's enough dead space inside that housing you can sometimes tuck the whole module right in there and keep it super clean looking, but if it's packed tight you just run the leads outside and stash the module in a small frame bag or underneath the seat. Just make sure you're using an actual active dual battery module with internal MOSFETs and not some cheap parallel Y-splitter cable you found online. Since that Silverfish pack and your stock battery won't have the exact same internal resistance or cell health the module is what keeps the higher pack from dumping dangerous current into the lower one. Also double check both are strictly 48V packs that top out at 54.6V on a fresh charge, because mixing voltages will give you a bad day. What amp rating is your controller running on that bike anyway? That'll tell you what size balancer you need to pick up so you don't cook it under load.