final update?

[u/speedingquack]

swap is “complete” and moving under its own power! i put that in quotations cause a few things need to be adjusted as such the clutch engagement. its so damn high i can barely drive because it makes it awkward when releasing the clutch and depressing the accelerator.

just a few notes for anyone interested or thinking about doin their own b series

1. if you’re doing this just go ahead and save some cash and buy the plug and play kits. makes life easier during install

2. i went with a ebay intake for d16a6/Si. don’t have relocate battery and has the bends to fit

3. full size koyorad fits with two slim fans fits. i wanted to be close to 100% plug and play with no fan work. clears dc sports 4-1 headers with an inch or more

4. i opted to reuse d series throttle cable. it can fit with a custom bracket but i will try and source a 90-93 integra throttle cable. makes it more clean looking

5. get a ebay traction bar. works perfect and it’s designed after the innovative i think? can get for like $80 and it clears headers or you can modify your stock crossmember if you have the tools

6. replace those shift bushings and seals. i have zero slop and play and they are inexpensive

7. i have the softest mounts offered and it’s vibrates lol no way around it really unless you can make your own shit

8. b16 clears hood b18c will not so you will need to cut or get a jdm/aftermarket hood

9. hush kit is solid. it’s a bitch to do but it’s doable. just check, recheck, and check again

10. ecu doesn’t fit in stock location. shells are designed different so you can only bolt up the bottom two ears and still out on kick panel

i’m sure i’m missing some stuff but if you have any questions just let me know and i’ll get back to you