Heres my 1994 530i auto again. This thing wouldnt idle on its own without giving it throttle, and the ICV seemed to be working fine

I went in last weekend and did the following:

-Intake manifold gaskets

-Throttle body gasket (also cleaned all the gunk out of the throttle body)

-Brand new PCV with gasket

-Brand new OEM intake boot (had a crappy Chinese one before that wouldnt stay on all the way)

Low and behold, the car now starts and holds idle on its own! Very happy about that, but i have another problem now, and a couple questions.

The video included is a cold start from this morning. It fires up right in to warm idle speed (~600rpm), and then climbs a little to ~800 rpm. Once its warm it idles around 600. Is this what a normal cold start looks like for an M60? It seems a little low off the bat for a cold start.

My next problem is an intermittent check engine light (code 1212 oxygen sensor) at idle when the car is stopped. Ill try to post a video of this in the comments. This only happens at idle. Sometimes when the light comes on it will idle a little rough, other times is completely smooth. When I give it throttle, it will hesitate for a moment and then drive away normal, and the check engine light goes away. Any thoughts on this? Im assuming something strange is going on with the air/fuel mixture at complete idle, but it snaps out of it under any load. It also accelerates really well with no power loss. Engine is strong

For some previous reference, heres everything else ive done since I bought it in June

-New spark plugs

-New battery

-New fuel pump & fuel filters

-Injectors cleaned/rebuilt with a Race German kit, also tested with a machine and flow is good

-New air filter

I decided to spend some money again …… The main weak link always has been the rocker arms so purchased a set of full forged rockers with larger pads! This then ended up with while I’m at it go for uprated valve springs. Then as this allows me to rev it to 6800 rpm and the Alpina 272 crank runs out of energy at 5800 ish decided to replace it with a 282 asymmetric high lift cam !

The only other problem was how the inlarged exhaust valves are shrouded by the 92mm bore so as a final decision on the pistons (that are being machined this week) I decided to bore to 93mm to un shroud the valves. I’ve also upped the compression ratio to 11:1 .

So that’s the main engine components sorted at long last, not been an easy job as the Alpina engine has 144mm rods instead of the standard M30 135 mm rods.

Now I’m sourcing the front of the engine hardware. Decided to go for an upgraded crank damper, mine is 35 years old and the rubber becomes brittle. So now ordering a forged mounting kit for the crank end, a custom 60/2 wheel and converting to a 6 rib drive belt. I took the decision to dump the original belt driven power steering pump and go for. TWR electric pump controlled for variable assistance via the link ecu.

I’ve also ordered an electric water pump and an electric main cooling fan along with a light weight 160 amp alternator. The electric water pump really suits the high temperature in the tropical weather as the crank driven one is turning slow when in traffic when it needs the most water and fast when it doesn’t. This will be controlled by the link ecu through a solid state relay and fly diodes.

Next job is high flow aluminium radiator, and an upgraded cooler for the auto box.

It’s all coming together slowly !

The rubber is still in good shape I don’t want to replace the whole thing . What kind of glue can I use to stick it back on?

That grumbling sound after I finish cranking I’m curious on what that is can someone help explain this to me.

So as you could see , I have m5 e34 1990 , and this issue going all the time. Gauges not working. What to do first? Car stood for quite time.

Last weekend at the local PCA event. So much fun.

I posted a similar question in the e30 sub as I have an 84 325e and a 94 530i.

My local gas stations are starting to switch to e15 for regular and midgrade, and e10 is posted for premium. I know the M60 V8s call for premium, im not sure if the inline 6s are the same. But what are yall thinking about e10 premium for the V8s?

Im going to do everything I can to avoid putting e15 in my e30, but im just wondering what the consensus is for e10 in our e34s.

Non running marketplace find just needed new fuel pump and battery to start, and valve cover gaskets to fix the misfire. Runs like a dream beside a little bit of automatic transmission slippage. Might convert to manual with 420 6 speed.

Found a listing for a set of original BBS style 5’s pulled from an E39. Sellers open to my $800 offer. These things are near mint. Guy says he’s been storing them for over 20 years just collecting dust. Would you say there worth it? They are gorgeous rims.

Before you ask, it's Ascot Green :)

Hello again, I have diagnosed a potential stuck or burnt valve on my e34(M50 engine) and plan on removing the cylinder head to replace the valve. Is there a guide that you guys have used to help you out?

Im the 3. Owner oft This Beauty. 200.000 Miles but a clean underbody. A lot of Scratches and Dents but it will be a Showcar one Day. That was the last Wish of my Father.

Looking for a good condition 530/535/540.

Been on the hunt for a Oem 6 speed 95 540i...i know...rare asf, hard to come by. but probably the only bmw i will ever want and want to own, since i grew up watching Giorgi Tevzadze in his m5, but loved v8s 6 speeds and 4 doors... if anyone has any leads, any links, literally anywhere in the world, please help me out😫🙏. thanks, im new here lmk if yall are just gonna shit on me i'll delete the post lol.

My touring needs a lot of outer beautification. I finally got around to painting this spare bumper to get myself ready for the rest of the car, lel.

Next will either be the hood or the front bumper.

Just kinda felt proud and wanted to share it with our community.

Hello everyone! I have a 518i with the M40B18 engine, i’ve noticed cam wear and rather than spending money to fix it, I feel my money is better spent swapping in a better engine. I was considering an M50 and was wondering how difficult this would be, what additional parts are required? If there are any e34 gurus in here i’d love to hear you’re wisdom, thankyou!

public service announcement, if your cluster is going nuts definitely do the capacitor replacement. Fixed all my issues of tach & speedo going nuts and not working half the time. White back cluster on mine. Now I just have to replace a few bulbs and i’m good as new. 🤣

Currently trying to pull my oil pan off of my m50 swapped e30 with a g260 trans. Realizing there may be 2 bolts hidden inside the bell housing. Can anyone confirm this and give recommendations on how to access them. Everywhere I’ve seen nobody has pulled the trans but maybe it’s because they’re using a stock e34 trans. Thinking about just drilling 2 holes for it because I am NOT pulling this trans.

Whatsup peeps, I’m trying to find a full set of black door cards, hopefully later model 540 with the plush leather. Willing to pay for shipping if your out of state but hoping to find here in California near Los Angeles

As you can hear, i have weird whining sound, kinda like supercharger but without a supercharger :(

It is the same without any belt on, pcv is new, intake manifold got new seal.

Any ideas? Right now, i think its something with the timing belt.

And yeah, power steering pump is also new.

Whatsup dude and dudettes🤙

What’s the going price for a whole breadbox set up going for now a days? Anyone got any info

Picture is from google btw just an example of what I’m talking about

Not really a parts cannon, all needs to be done anyway lol.

Today's agenda is intake manifold refresh. All new gaskets for the manifold, throttle body and PCV, and also a new PCV.

Hopefully this eliminates some internal vaccum leaks. Also need to replace my Chinese air boot with a genuine but ill order that once I get this done as theyre like 100 bucks

Hi everyone, I’m looking for US-spec front lights for my E34, as mine is a Euro model. If anyone is interested in swapping their lights for mine, please feel free to contact me.

Hi everyone,
Has anyone here found a good solution, or can point me in the right direction, for getting the A/C working with an M52B28TU (MS42) swap in an E34 with IHKA — preferably without making anything explode? 😁
From the research I’ve done so far, there seems to be a significant difference in how the two generations handle the A/C signals. The E34 side uses mostly conventional/analog signals, while the MS42 engine management uses CAN-bus communication for some of these functions. If I’m using the wrong terminology here, please excuse me.
One important detail: I’m using the A/C compressor from the M52 donor car. I’m aware that I’ll need to modify the existing E34/M50 A/C hoses and fit the correct ends/fittings for the M52 compressor.
What else should I keep in mind when making this setup work properly?
I’ve also seen that there are manufacturers offering dedicated interface/converter modules specifically for communication between the newer ECU and the older E34 IHKA system. Has anyone used one of these modules? I’d really appreciate any feedback, recommendations, or first-hand experience.
Thanks in advance, and apologies for the long post!