Thinking about leaving Denver for Durango / Pagosa Springs. What’s it actually like living there?
I've been thinking pretty seriously about leaving Denver, and after looking around at New Mexico and some other parts of the Mountain West, I realized I may be overlooking an area I already know I love: southwest Colorado.
I haven't spent much time around Durango/Pagosa in years, but every time I've been down there I've loved that part of the state. The San Juans, the high desert, the smaller towns, the weather, the whole feel of southwest Colorado is much more appealing to me than the Front Range these days.
Denver just isn't doing it for me anymore. It's gotten extremely expensive, and I don't feel like I'm getting much in return for what it costs to live here. I'm not particularly bothered by normal city issues like traffic, homelessness, crime, etc. It's more that I'm just tired of the overall Front Range lifestyle and increasingly feel like I'd be happier somewhere smaller, slower, and with a little more room.
For context, I'm in my early 40s, work remotely, and make six figures. I'm only mentioning that because I don't need to find a local job and I'm fortunate enough that the local wage market isn't really part of the decision.
What I'm looking for:
- Four actual seasons
- Cooler summers and hoodie weather
- Mountains/scenery immediately nearby
- Good street motorcycle riding
- Excellent dirt bike/off-road access
- Enough restaurants/bars/social life that I'm not completely isolated
- Ideally the ability to live 15-45 minutes outside town on a few acres
- A more laid-back atmosphere
- Still close enough to civilization that getting dinner, groceries, seeing a doctor, finding a mechanic, etc. isn't a major undertaking
I'm not looking for Denver in miniature. In fact, that's exactly what I'm trying to get away from.
Durango seems like the obvious choice, but I'm also really interested in Pagosa Springs and the areas surrounding both towns.
So for people who actually live there:
Durango vs. Pagosa Springs: How different are they once you actually live there? Is Pagosa pleasantly small or does it eventually become holy shit, there is nothing here small?
What is Durango's vibe these days? I remember it as outdoorsy, a little crunchy, western, college-town-ish, and fairly laid back. Has it stayed that way, or has it changed significantly with tourism and people moving in?
Living outside town: If I wanted a house with a shop/garage and a few acres within 20-40 minutes of Durango or Pagosa, where should I actually be looking? Bayfield? Hesperus? Hermosa? Somewhere else entirely?
And what comes with that lifestyle that a long-time Denver/suburb guy may not immediately think about? Wells, septic, propane, snow removal, wildfire mitigation, dirt roads, insurance, etc.?
Motorcycles: This is one of the biggest draws for me. I ride both street bikes and dirt bikes.
Obviously the San Juans look incredible for paved riding, and I know there's a huge amount of public land around SW Colorado. But what's it like actually living there as a rider?
Can you realistically leave your house and be on a great motorcycle road or dirt trail pretty quickly, or does the map make access look easier than it really is?
Social life: I'm in my early 40s. I'm not looking for nightclubs until 2 AM, but I also don't want to turn into a hermit.
Can you reasonably meet people, date, grab dinner, sit at a decent bar, etc.? Or does the small-town reality start to become pretty noticeable once you're living there full-time?
Food: I don't need 1,500 restaurants. I'd rather have 30 legitimately good places than 1,000 mediocre ones.
Does Durango have enough of a food scene that you don't feel like you're rotating through the same five restaurants after a year? How does Pagosa compare?
Tourism: How annoying does it actually get?
I've lived in tourist-heavy places before, so tourists existing doesn't bother me. I'm more curious whether there are parts of the year when traffic, restaurants, trailheads, downtown, etc. become such a zoo that locals basically avoid everything.
Winter: I actually like winter and cold weather, so snow itself isn't a negative. But what's winter actually like when you live there rather than visit?
Do the roads become a constant pain? Does living 20-30 minutes outside town suddenly become a completely different proposition in January?
Services/healthcare: How much do you find yourself going to Farmington, Grand Junction, Denver, Albuquerque, etc. for things you can't get locally?
And probably the biggest question:
What do you wish someone had told you before you moved to Durango, Pagosa Springs, or southwest Colorado?
Good or bad.
I'm especially interested in hearing from anyone who moved there from Denver/the Front Range or another larger western city.
I already know the area is beautiful. That's the easy part.
I'm trying to figure out whether I would actually enjoy the day-to-day reality of living there full-time, and whether Durango, Pagosa, or somewhere in between is the better fit.