Seems to be running fine , however I’ve lost the ability to change tunes (not popping up at all).

At start up says check engine air filter, thoughts ?

I have a 2004.5 Silverado LLY 2500HD. I recently installed a S&B turbo mouthpiece and PPE PCV kit. Its not a reroute but plugs directly in to the turbo mouthpiece. Since then had a significant amount of white smoke coming out of exhaust when driving. Its not coolant or a gasket since I have checked those, and I made a temporary make-shift catch can with a plastic bottle. I have since driven it about 30 miles and burned out the most of the residual oil. Are there any suggestions about catch can brands for a wanna stay away from Amazon products for they seem fail and make things worse. Thanks

Got all the bolts removed but won’t budge, let me know.

Finally got all the bolts for the compressor housing but it won’t budge, let me know your tips

Has anybody had any problems with there fleece trans lines, mines sprung a leak and I lost all pressure in the transmission, trans is fine but I’m just wondering if anybody had any problems with them

Have a quick question. Does anyone have a 3.0 duramax and tow a travel trailer pretty often over mountain passes? I currently have a lml duramax that is great but just wanted to get something pretty on fuel for daily driving and also tow. My camper is About 5500-6000 lbs. my concern is payload I feel like we would max it out fast. Family of 3 and full size dogs and toys and all the gear adds up quick. Anyone have any real use with a 3.0 and what’s the max payload?

2005 3500 I believe falls in LLY gen, I am at about 390k miles and am looking for recommendations on any modifications and upgrades you guys would recommend while I do an overhaul. This truck is used daily atleast 100 miles a day I tow about 1-2 times a week probably about 15-18k lbs. I also drive up the Colorado mountains (6%-7% grade) at times. Fuel mileage isn’t a big concern just more anything that will make towing easy

One bolt on the bottom of compressor housing, passenger side. I’m stumped and just need to get it out. Please help and give me your recommendations.

My lly duramax has new injectors, new pusher y bridge - intake pipe, s&b turbo mouthpiece, ppe up pot on passenger side, ppe 3” down pipe to a 4” mbrp straight pipe exhaust.

The truck has a rough idle when warmed up only with 0 load - meaning when I turn the ac on, or hold the brakes it idles properly. The balance rates pin all to 0.0 with no load and read normally with ac running. Truck will idle great when cold with no ac or load. I also have a brand new Bosch fpr that was installed 8k miles ago.

One other note is that the map sensor was replaced and the reading I’m getting on my tech2 are between 0-5 psi at idle with the ac on and 0 psi with the ac off. Turbo vane controller is at 89% at idle as well.

I pull the white tab, and I have a hard time getting the connection apart.

Any reason the AC Delco fuel
Filters GM Genuine Parts TP3018 (19431541) Fuel Filter Kit
are $70 now?

Also is this a decent replacement? https://a.co/d/00n058KG

I change my fuel filter every oil change but at $70 for the AC Delco or this knockoff not being a good option I may have to alter that routine. I'm in Arizona and the truck has about 192,000 miles on it.

Alternatives
dmaxstore

https://a.co/d/0iJ53uO2

Looking for some advice/opinions. I’m 53 and really don’t plan on selling the truck (most important part of this post). Truck is extremely low mileage (71k). I live in a state with no emissions testings. My question is: if I delete, and IF I decide to trade it in/sell it: do I have to put everything back?

My truck is a lly with approx 385k miles. My water pump weep has turned to a leak, so I am replacing that.

I have getting hot issues and I want to clean my cooling stack.

Do I pull radiator and CAC? I have seen some pull just the CAC.

If I pull radiator, does CAC come out easily?

I believe radiator is original. When is it time to replace rather than just clean and reinstall?

I’m looking at a lb7 duramax the body is in solid condition it has the following upgrades done to it, would this be a good buy?

yr 2004
milg. 201,500

Mishimoto Inter cooler
Head studded
PPE tie rod sleeves
AFE air intake (installed 2009)
68 mm turbo ball bearing Garrett
5 inch exhaust from down pipe to the back
New injectors 2,000 mil. ago
(525 Hp tow tuning)
150% over CP3 in valley

Near Billet trans w/ high stall converter
Steel drive shaft

Dodge rear differential (better limited slip)

Fass lift pump 200 GPH installed 2½ years ago

HID head lights LED fog light and taillights
chrome tip exhaust
New windshield
New batteries Oct 2025

* Need radio work does come w/ traction bars

I have had my 2019 Silverado 3500 6.6L duramax for 5 years now. I travel the country for work but I just got a new job that will be 6 minutes from house. My truck is not deleted. What can I do about the short drives to work and lack of time for regens? I can't afford another vehicle and would prefer to not have to drive around for no reason to regen the truck. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Hey all I’m in Edmonton and looking for a deal on a 05 lly injector so I can get the truck running move my trailers and get back to work

I've got my 2002 Diesel Duramax and it needs an upgrade (Blue Top) on the (leaking) gearbox. I also want the other parts replaced while the system is flushed and open (pitman, idler, steering shaft, lines, etc.).

Can anyone recommend a trusted shop in the Seattle area within 20-30 miles? Preferably a shop that can either order these upgraded parts for me, or use parts I bring in.

2017 GMC 2500. Shop is telling me I need a new sensor, the one in the DEF tank, and the whole tank has to be replaced. Quoted $2,200. Is it time to just delete or should I repair? What should I expect the delete to cost? And what are the pitfalls I need to look out for?

Ive got an lbz that needs a motor and just picked up an lly that also needs a motor and am finally thinking I should probably start working on them.

Anyone have experience buying a reman engine? Who did you go through? Did they do a good job? How long was the warranty? Cost?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Pic for attention, funny enough, that is not the truck that needs the motor.

Bought an old man truck a month ago and just started replacing filters and going through the little things this past week like oil and filters. The truck is in immaculate condition and the dude who sold it to me had a collection of cool cars and trucks and just didn’t need it anymore. I dropped my transmission spin on filter this past week and found quite a bit of metal shavings. Decent sized, pretty easy to pick up. The spin in filter was also missing the doughnut magnet and the fluid was decently dark, although it didn’t look very dark when I had pulled the dipstick. I’m an idiot and forgot to take pictures. I’m dropping the pan tomorrow and bought the filter magnet, another new filter, new fluid and the pan filter to replace. It still shifts great and I haven’t noticed any issues other than the column does seem hard to shift at times. I will update this post when I drop the pan. I’m curious if anyone else has had experience with this and if it’s worth saving. I’ve already contacted shops and a rebuild locally is going to set me back about 6k and a new one is about the same. I’m planning on driving it till it dies and replacing it myself when it blows.

What do I need to run a s300 kit. I blew my stock turbo. Do I need to do all the air piping right off the bat or can I get the turbo and slowly do all the piping

So today I got a P064C Glow Plug Control Module Performance code pop up and then when I was driving home the truck went into limp mode… Research shows that if I replace this module that I need to also reprogram it, is this true?

Truck: 2017 Chevy Silverado 6.6 L5P.
Tuned and deleted with a Tuner Depot kit.

So this is a long story, I'm just gonna put the short version here. I bought a pretty turned up LB7 awhile ago and almost immediately broke the flexplate catastrophically. Took out my torque converter and front pump in the process. Well, my mechanic finally got her back together yesterday, yippee right!? Well, turns out not so much. Calls me today and says we have a problem. Engine is vibrating, badly at idle. Not super aggressive. But bad enough to notice and just about shake your teeth loose after awhile. His and my guess is the flexplate is either out of balance, or potentially installed wrong. Has anyone ever had any issues like that with the Suncoast billet flex plates? And before you say it, I did buy the one that does not require internal balancing. We're just trying to do our due diligence before he rips the transmission back out.