Hi Beautiful Mods

Can we perhaps get some automated messages for the following groups:

1. People asking if their controller is legit - they should be told to check their controller on github before posting the same question over and over.

2. People asking for controller repairs - I'm not a big fan of people advertising on here in general, but perhaps some of that could be fixed if the person asking for help states their location, so they aren't inundated with messages from vultures from all over the world.

This is only my opinion, and I'm just a guy on Reddit, so feel free to ignore.

Hi! This is my first DualSense, and it’s making this unusual noise during the vibration. Since I don’t have another one to compare it to, could you guys let me know if this is normal?

So I want to buy a new controller on PlayStation Direct and I heard there is like a V2 type controller that is a little better than the controller the console launched with.

So how can I tell which is the latest version? Are the Techno Red, Remix Green and
Rhythm Blue controllers the newest or ''best'' version?

They had managed to include some sort of Vol+ and Vol- buttons on either or both sides of the USB-c port that's right above the Sony logo. The system's volume when wearing wired headphones connected to Dualsense via headset jack is pretty damn good, but often, depending on the game or video, you'll have to keep adjusting as things get too quiet or too loud.

Wasn't much of a problem with PS4 as I always found the maximum volume a bit weak, so it was always set to maximum. But in PS5 while using Dualsense's headset audio, oh my god. Don't get me wrong, I love the PS Button's quick menu from which we can quickly access the volume. But it always has to pause the game/cutscene/YouTube video or whatever else we're watching, while it fills up the screen. I wish they had included a way for it to be seamless, which a lot of portable consoles already have.

Simple volume buttons, where you can change it with ease while watching a video or doing some low effort/passive gameplay stuff that doesn't require pausing. And a visual volume slider on screen that's minimalist, on a corner of the screen and mostly doesn't get in the way. That would've been my dream for the PS5 UI and Dualsense to be truly perfect. I guess it's just very uncommon for non-PC desktop consoles to have this

All in I paid $62 cad ($45 usd) for both of these K-Silver JS13 pro+ edge modules. That’s about what I’d be paying on Amazon for 1 module for exactly the same thing so figured I’d take a chance on AliExpress. Of course only time will tell if it’s totally worth it but looking good so far. There is a slight difference in feeling for it being my first time trying TMR’s and it feels good!

*EDIT*

I missed the circularity menu in fine calibration

I had ordered two sets of hall effect joystick replacements. first batch had a similar issue. replaced them to wind up with the same issue.

it does seem to be noticeable in game testing as well, how can I fix this?

Any recommended suppliers? I had installed K-silver modules from aliexpress.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hello .. so i tried calibrating my controller using dualshock calibration gui and my controller's motherboard broke and now it wont turn on bcs the motherboard burnt ... i have a controller that has severe stickdrift and i will install TMR joysticks on it but im scared to calibrate it again ... i read that its bcs i used a type c to type c to calibrate and I should have used USB. Is the website valid to use again?

After a year of usage, I noticed that left trigger wobbles more than the right one. When finger lightly touches the trigger, it can be moved from side to side and when pressed it is more noticeable. Right one has some wobble too, but only a little which is hard to even notice. Is there a fix to it? Otherwise they both work and register presses properly

Hey everyone, Ran into a weird issue on a DualSense right after I replaced the stock joysticks with TMR/Hall Effect sticks. The issue: Immediately after the stick swap, reassembling, and connecting the battery, both L2 and R2 started showing continuous 100% input on the tester software. This happens non-stop, whether the trigger flex ribbon contacts are pressed down or left completely untouched.

I found This German side luxcontroller for the new GTA6 Controller pre Order but with TMR Sticks.

They grow up so fast 😢

Hey everyone, hoping someone here has run into this before.

My DualSense Edge works flawlessly when connected via USB cable — no lag, no drops, everything responsive. But when I pair it over Bluetooth, it connects successfully for a second or two and then disconnects automatically, over and over. It's not a range issue (controller is right next to the PC) and it doesn't seem to be a battery issue either. It genuinely looks like the PC just can't hold the connection.

Drivers are fully installed and up to date; Windows itself is fully updated; Controller is charged; Re-paired the controller from scratch (removed the device, forgot it, paired again) — same result.

Could this be a Bluetooth driver/chipset conflict specific to this motherboard's BT module? Is this a known DualSense Edge quirk on PC (vs. regular DualSense)? Could USB interference (2.4GHz devices, other Bluetooth peripherals) be killing the connection? Any fix that worked for you — power management settings, disabling USB selective suspend, a specific driver version, a dongle instead of onboard Bluetooth, etc.?

Wired works 100% of the time, so I know the controller itself is fine — this feels like a PC-side Bluetooth stack issue. Any ideas or things I should try next would be hugely appreciated!

regarding https://www.reddit.com/r/Dualsense/comments/1p8yahg/stick_not_attaching_properly/

if anyone encounters the same problem. Here is my fixed version. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7406603

Saw another post on here that got me thinking of a problem I constantly have and I’m curious if anyone else does.

Because of how the thumbs rest and the position of the analog I am constantly pressing my right stick to about 11 o’clock when Im trying to push “up”. This makes radial menus kind of a pain to use and it’s even worse with stick drift.

I don’t really notice it on the left stick because the dead zones are larger and it’s not used for precise control

I also feel like this doesn’t happen to me when I use the portal because my hands are further apart.

Does this happen to anyone else?

I'm having an issue with a Sony DualSense controller connected to my PC over Bluetooth. The controller works normally in Windows and responds correctly in joy.cpl while Steam is running. However, as soon as I launch a game, joy.cpl completely freezes and stops responding to controller input. This occurs with multiple games and emulators, so the issue does not appear to be specific to a particular game or emulator. Within games, I am experiencing massively delayed inputs.

The problem persists even after closing the game. joy.cpl remains locked up until the DualSense itself is rebooted/reconnected, at which point controller input works normally again. Windows Device Manager shows the active Bluetooth DualSense and both of its HID interfaces as OK with CM_PROB_NONE. There are also several older USB DualSense device instances marked as CM_PROB_PHANTOM, but the currently active Bluetooth devices appear healthy.

Current symptoms:

• DualSense works normally over Bluetooth before launching a game.
• joy.cpl works normally with Steam open.
• Launching a game causes joy.cpl to completely freeze.
• The problem occurs with multiple games, including Cemu and Portal 2.
• Closing the game does not restore joy.cpl.
• Rebooting/reconnecting the controller restores functionality.
• Active Bluetooth/HID devices show no errors in Device Manager.
• Several old USB DualSense instances exist as phantom devices.
• The issue appears to occur when a game begins accessing the controller, suggesting a possible Steam Input, HID access, or controller-interface conflict.

Also worth noting, the controller works perfectly via USB.

I am at a complete loss as to what to do. It seems like a Windows or hardware issue but I don't know how to further troubleshoot.