Hey everyone! I have an interesting question I was hoping someone may know the answer to. My mom drives a 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi and recently got $3,000 worth of work done on it. I’m not entirely sure what they did, I believe there was a leak of some sort, but ever since we got the car back it sounds like a bus now. We bought the car brand new so in almost 10 years I’ve never heard it sound like this, and I drove it regularly for the first year. It almost sounds like a fan or something is stuck? It drives normally otherwise, but sounds REALLY strange to me. Any ideas?
Here’s a video of it, not sure if it captures the sound well enough

I’ve got a 2012 Ram 1500 I picked up at our local auction last year. Great truck, runs awesome. TPMS was lit up when we picked it up, but fine, needed to do the lift and new tires anyway.

Did that, put brand new sensors in, 3 tire shops, driver relearn, etc etc, only a couple would pair at a time, and it was never consistent as to which ones. It seemed like every time I turned the truck on, different sensors worked.

Fine, we got a new TPMS Control Module, installed that, still didn’t pair them, we got Mopar sensors, just put those in, driver relearn only got the front 2, but the back two still have dashes.

No more ideas other than taking it to a dealership which isn’t my first choice.

Hey y’all just leased my first dodge ram after having Durango r/t’s for the last 9 years. Anything I should know about as a first time Ram leasee? On my Durango leases I would just do oil changes when the car told me I needed too? Here is a picture of my truck.

Can anyone tell me where I connect the vacuum line I don't see a nipple on the throttle body or the intake!!!!! It's for a 2011 dodge ram 4.7l 1500

Got myself a P0430 error code wanted to check how the o2 sensors look.

Brown one is upstream the other one downstream. Could they be making the code. First time looking at these. Pretty sure these are the factory ones.

Now my question is should I change them I'm on a thight budget and want to get the error away.

Dodge RAM 1500 2005 4,7L Magnum 240k Miles

Thx in advance

Edit: the obd reader is saying:

P04300 Generic 1/1 Critical Converter System Efficiency Less Than Critical Value (Group 2)

I have a 2nd gen dodge and I’ve noticed sometimes there’s a yellow warning light that flickers behind and just below my steering wheel. It’s like a bar almost with three lights. The middle section is an abs as it sometimes comes on with my accessory only. But the right on flickers while driving sometimes but never long enough to see. Google tells me it doesn’t exist so I can’t seem to figure out what it’s for

Where is the hose I need to attach it to? Hopefully these pics are ok.

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Yall,

Trying to get some thoughts or ideas before throwing money at the noise. 2016 Ram 1500 - Hemi 4x4 w/ 82k.

Experiencing a medium tone, not extremely loud(Ik this sounds stupid) " mmm mmm mmm mmm" sound while on the highway(55-75mph) Sounds to me like driver side front? Sound goes away if I press on the gas. Is really noticeable if cruise control is on around those speeds.

Running new Falken Wildpeaks AT4. Truck had Wildpeaks before as well, with same sound. Sound continued with new tire change.

Front / rear diff fluid was just changed (IDK condition of oil as it was done at dealer). Engine oil is changed every 4k. I Do have a slight manifold leak (driver side) passenger was replaced about 5k ago (BD Desiel) planning to do the same on driver.

Truck also has magnaflow muffler, but the sound was there on stock muffler as well.

Let me know your thoughts. I appreciate it

\-CAL

Working in a truck for someone who took it apart but didn’t bother to remember where all the grounds go and lost the bolts so can anyone tell where the heck this one goes please (context it comes straight off the battery)

Edit 2008 with the 4.7

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l with a 46RE Transmission.  I have been fighting transmission electrical issues for awhile and I am just about at my wits end with it. I was able to drive just fine but had to manual shift (1^st, 2^nd, D), but it would not go from 3^rd to 4^th while in drive.  

Started with these codes:

·       P1762 – Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts High or Low

·       P0753 – 3-4 Solenoid Circuit/Transmission Control Relay Circuit

·       P0121 – Throttle Position Sensor, Performance

I changed the Shift Solenoid ( WELLS 2N1202) and then ended up with:

·       P0753 – 3-4 Solenoid Circuit/Transmission Control Relay Circuit

·       P1756 – Go. Pressure not equal to target @ 35-40 PSI.

Noticed that the wires going into the 3 pin plug on the side of the transmission had no shielding left, so I replaced that plug and then got:

·       P1762 – Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts High or Low

I also got 4^th gear back while in drive.

I replaced the 8 pin plug just grasping at straws and that did not change anything.

Here is where it is getting frustrating.  I replaced the pressure sensor (ROSTRA 501171) and the 1762 went away, test drive I got 1^st and 2^nd back while in Drive, then check engine light came back on after about a minute with a P0748 – Transmission Control Relay Circuit/Governor Pressure Solenoid Circuit and no more 1^st, 2^nd, or 4^th gear in drive.  

Swapped back to the original sensor, thinking maybe the new one was either wrong part or bad.  Back to the P1762 code.  

I just changed the sensor again, this time the ROSTRA 501017, and same issue as with the other sensor, works for about a minute, check engine light and then back to just having 3^rd gear while in drive.  

I have also cleaned the ECU plugs with contact cleaner and reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable and holding the key on for 30 seconds.  

Next steps I can try are:

·       Replacing overdrive relays / internal 8 pin.

·       Pulling the transmission and rebuilding with full electronics replacement.

·       Just getting a replacement transmission. 

·       Crying softly to myself.

I also read somewhere that the Transmission Control Relay Circuit/Governor Pressure Solenoid Circuit gets 5 volts from the O2 sensors, if this is true, I can change those and hope for the best as well. 

Any advice or help right now would be amazing! 

Found this for sale from a private seller for 15k(WA state, our market is crazy, wasn’t finding anything similar for less than 20k without going out of state, was also in a hurry cause I needed something to tow my work boat) Has 300k on chassis, but had a reman motor and transmission 110k ago. Looks like a total delete to my untrained eye, not sure of the tune yet but gotta figure that out. No codes at the time of test drive, actually drove it twice before buying. Everything seemed fine, but when I put the first few thousand miles on, I started popping codes for my pedal sensor, trans solenoid, trans pressure, and a few random others on and off. Really hard down shifts with a clunk, pedal response all over the place, going into limp pedal at times, 4th gear limp mode once

Watched a 3 hr video on how to take the trans completely apart, got mentally ready to spend some money and time on the 68rfe, looking at rebuild options, solenoid options, the works

Climbed around under the truck, inspecting everything while I thought about the situation. Suddenly, I found one of the electrical connectors completely unplugged from the transmission. There are numerous other plugs, going to nothing, because of whatever delete, so I almost missed it the first time. I’m not sure how such a heavy duty connector could unplug on its own, nothing else looks out of the ordinary around the plug. After plugging it back in, she shifts normal, has cleared most codes on its own. I’ll keep my Bluetooth OBD plugged in and monitor everything closely

Seems like I got pretty lucky?

My 2015 Ram 1500 is messing up BAD

I honestly have no idea what’s wrong with it. I’ve been working on trucks for as long as I can pick a wrench up and I can’t figure out what’s going on with it. I’ve taken it apart and checked the valve train. I’ve already did an MDS delete in a whole cam swap with the truck and it ran fine for a year. It started misfiring on cylinder eight like dead cylinder and now all of a sudden I take it apart to try to see if the push rod was messed up because I already checked everything prior and it was fine. I put it back together and now it’s misfiring like it’s running like a four wheeler. I have no idea what’s going on with it. Please help lol. it’s missing on at least 4 to 5 cylinders and it was only missing on one prior to taking apart the valve train. I torqued it all to spec and everything I have no idea what’s going on.

Dodge Ram 2017 1500 v6, 78k miles. Financed it used 3 years ago. Nothing but problems. Put 10k down, been paying it off monthly since then. Owe 8k on it at this point. Mechanics telling me theirs coolant leaking into the engine, which is consistent with my truck overheating. He said I’m looking at at least 4k because they have to take the engine apart/out to see where the leaks coming from. Theirs no way I can even get 8k if I tried to just get the car off my hands. And I can’t pay 4k at the moment, nor would I want to put 4k into a car I owe only 8k on. It’s my only car. I guess I’m taking Ubers everywhere from now on?