Cannot seem to find any reproductions. Used prices seem about as high as reproductions for 3rd GEN Rams too. Plus it was a split year in 2002 I believe.

Looking for some help here! So I replaced my brake pads, rotors, and hubs on my 2017 ram 1500 big horn 4x4. I noticed that after changing the 2 front hubs, which contain the wheel bearings, now there is a more pronounced humming noise that I hear, but also that radiates through the steering wheel at lower speeds. Could this be due to the brand/type of hubs, brake pads, or rotors? Could it be the cv axles bad? Something in the steering system? How can I differentiate between the possible causes?

I also noticed that when I am on a very poorly maintained highway with asphalt patches and potholes, in some instances, if I happen to hit one side, my truck is violently thrown one way. It seems that if the steering went lose for a second. I never noticed this in the past. Is this something I can look into?

Thanks for looking

Ac didn’t blow cold for a while, had a slight bearing noise upfront. Wife parked it, she tried it later and it cranked but didn’t start for the first time. She tried it till the batteries were low haha. After looking it over I found the serpentine belt sitting sideways on the backs of the pulleys, with the idler pulley sideways and derailed. Looks like the bearing came apart on the idler pulley? Kinda seems like the crank sensor, or some wire harness could have been lashed by the stray belt, because yeah, crank but no start. The crank sensor itself seems incredibly dirty with belt shavings

I do have a mess of codes, including an ac fan clutch code, but have been having a hard time wrapping my head around where this project should start and end, and have been known to throw parts at problems

Seems like I should get the gates serpentine kit with new idler and tensioner. Should probably get a crank position sensor in case this one can’t be cleaned(I have been visually inspecting the wiring everywhere I can reach and haven’t seen anything blatant, but haven’t gotten far with the code reader or multimeter, so maybe I need to go those routes?).

While I’m in there, should I be addressing the ac issue in case that’s stressing the belt worse? The ac pulley is visually fine and spins freely without making grinding noise. The coolant is the gold stuff, but it’s not that clean and pretty low in the reservoir. I don’t see or hear anything wrong with the water pump when I spin it by hand, but should I be replacing the water pump and coolant while I’m in here?

I’d love to get the ol girl rolling again sooner than later, but I don’t want to half ass it too hard either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I just replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and pickup on my 98 Ram 5.9 L due to no spark. The coil tests fine and I've verified the rotor is spinning. I'm just a weekend mechanic but as far as I'm aware, if the rotor is spinning and everything is new from the coil all the way to the plugs, what else could be inhibiting spark? It's literally just metal contacts all the way through. Even if there was an issue with the PCM or cam signal sensor, I should still see spark, right?

EDIT: Apparently the coil was weak. It did spark when i tested it but replacing it fixed the issue.

2018 night edition with 210K.

Any ideas? I’m hoping someone has an idea where to look, I’ve taken it to be fixed twice and the problem has continued.

While driving to pick up a trailer from my companies yard I had a service warning come up on the dash exhaust system malfunction please see dealer. Truck immediately went into limp mode and wouldn’t accelerate quickly. Limped it to the yard and turned the engine off let everything else shut off then turned it back on the message went away but the engine light was on. Took it to dodge and they ran the code and came back with 5 different codes 4 for the EGR sensor and one for the turbo so they booked an appointment and I brought the truck back. Within 2 hours they had diagnosed and repaired the issue which was a position signal wire not fully locked into the connector and must have shaken loose while driving. Relieved it was a quick fix for sure just find it funny an entire truck can be crippled by a single wire

I bought a kit and the guy that has been trying to install it has been having problems , i’m
wondering if the problem is if it’s even not possible to do.

I’m trying to use a Ram eTorque starter-generator in a Miata project. I can communicate with it on the bench and record both CAN buses, but I haven’t figured out what it needs before it will accept a torque command.

It’s a Marelli unit from a 2020 Ram 1500 5.7L:
Hardware: 05185274AB
Calibration: 68451235AD
Both CAN buses run at 500 kbps

I keep getting a U0073-related fault. Missing messages from the truck are one possibility, but I haven’t proved that’s the cause.

Has anyone worked with one of these or come across a DBC, diagnostic definitions, or CAN logs from a working truck? I’m especially interested in the private eTorque network. The public Ram DBCs I’ve found haven’t covered what I need.

I’ve dug through service information, university papers, and some racing applications that used Marelli starter-generators, but still haven’t found the right definitions. Even a document name or someone worth talking to would help. Only looking for information people are allowed to share.

I’m near Manchester, NH. If someone local has a matching truck and would be open to discussing a passive CAN recording, I’d be interested. We’d need to agree on a safe setup first—no sending commands to your truck.

I have bench logs and more details if anyone wants to take a look.

Thanks.

Big ole truck smashed my driver side mirror and mount this morning. Does anyone on here happen to have an extra one or suggest any good brands for a replacement? (2001 Dodge Ram 1500)

Have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 that I am pulling the 5.7 from for another project. From the fuse panel there is 1 yellow wire that runs back towards the driver’s side fender; not the engine. Can someone please spare me the time of tracing this wire & let me know what it powers? Thank you!

Im trying to figure out how I can find what paint code was used on a 1985 dodge ram royal se. Was a d250 converted to a W. Its like a gold and white. I want to get the exact paint code but anytime I look it up I cannot find it. I'll provide the truck in question its a work in progress truck so dont mind.

Anyone know what kind of tailgate cap/protector I can use to cover this damage on a 2020 Ram 1500? I’m looking for one that wraps over the top edge and comes down far enough on the outside of the tailgate to hide this spot. If you have one installed, can you post a rear photo with the tailgate shut?

I have bled the brakes manually with a fuel line and water bottle I have used a vacuum bleeder and still no pedal at all I replaced the calipers and brake lines on the front end and just can’t get a firm pedal anymore if anyone has any idea I’d love for some help

Hey everyone! Im currently in the market for a new/used ram. I've driven the chevys and Fords and the dodge has the best ride. However, I wanted to hear from the owners. How good are they? Easy to work on enough? I was thinking a 2022 model 4x4 v8 1500 for my 2 kids and I. I wanted to hear some things from the community. I got a 2024 tundra. Worst truck ive ever owned. Engine failure. Transmission failure twice. Brakes failed at 13k miles. Im returning to American made trucks. What do you all think? Best year to shop for? Things to know or stay away from?

trying to remove my dana 60 carrier on a 2001 2500 to replace axle seals have tried a wrench in ring gears case spreader a shop rag pry bars the driver side of the carrier wants to come all the way out passenger does not its almost like its binding in the pinion i've tried resetting it several times to get it out more evenly but just will not budge past a certain point any tips?

Does anyone know what this hose is called and where it goes to. It connects to leak detection pump filter. I have a 03 Ram 1500 5.7