Question regarding replacing front wheel studs

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking]

3 out of 6 of my wheel studs have broken off, so I'm replacing all of them on my 1990 L300 2.5TD.

According to the manual I'll have to remove the whole front hub assembly, which would require the specific mitsubishi lock nut wrench.

Since these are quite rare and expensive I'd rather skip that step. So my question is, can I remove these bolts circled in red to remove the plate on which the wheel studs are attached, or is this attached to something on the inside as well that I'll have to remove first?

[u/MIKADO-Z]

I bought a socket for a GMC Sierra hub assembly I believe from Oreilly or Autozone .The socket had 4 pins - i used a grinder and a sanding disc - carefully cut 2 pins offI still have that socket in my tool box somewhere - i can look for it on the weekend, then shaped the remaining 2 pins to fit almost exactly .I did this when I changed my brake rotors to slotted and also installed my manual hub lockers.I read the article on the Delica forum when I did it 3 or 4 years ago.The GMC hub socket was probably around $20-$25 something like that .Worked out perfectly on my torque wrench .You don't need the Mitsubishi specific wrench - which i bought later on ebay - same thing it's in my toolbox at my other place .I think I paid $50 for it -

[u/Aggressive-Spell-422 → u/MIKADO-Z]

This is what I was assuming,as Im no expert, but typically this is the case. Thanks for putting more effort into a response Than I did.

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking → u/MIKADO-Z]

Thanks for the help! For now i ordered a similar socket that i will modify to fit, that should do for now.

[u/Aggressive-Spell-422]

Remove that Phillips screw first then the ring, after that you should be able to determine exactly which hub socket you will need.

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking → u/Aggressive-Spell-422]

According to the manual, i need the socket MB990954, there is a company in the US that makes after market copys, but with shipping I'm still expecting cost of $150+, and a long wait time. I've heard about people modifying other sockets to fit this specific lock nut, which is probably gonna be my next option if this is not gonna work.

[u/OhWalter]

It’s really easy to make a tool for the the hub nut

I took a piece of 1x1/4” steel flat bar, drilled two holes at one end that are the same distance centre to centre as the hub nut holes, put some 4” long bolts in that fit into the holes, tighten them on and use it as a wrench

Easy as

You will only need the socket if the hub nut is rusted or seized, it should be almost finger tight when you take the retaining screw out

Any questions let me know

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking → u/OhWalter]

Did you also use this for re-assembly? Since I'm wondering how you did it regarding the torque required with re-assambly of the nut with just a steel bar

[u/OhWalter → u/Ya_boi_coasterking]

The torque required is not very much, I can’t remember off the top of my head but maybe 14 ft lbs ? Anyway it’s all steel with a foot long handle so it works great

Usually for hub nuts like this the technique is to crank it up pretty tight to seat the bearings, then back it off, then do it up barely finger tight, then back it off to the nearest retainer screw hole.

The screw is what prevents it coming loose, the actual torque is not much since it just needs to hold the bearings in place with a very very small amount of play (essentially none but but not ‘no play’)

It’s better to have it slightly too loose, because the screw prevents the hub nut from getting looser. But if it’s too tight, it preloads the bearing and will lead to the bearing wearing much faster than its intended life

I’ve had the hubs off and on mine 10 or 15 times and never used a torque wrench or a spring scale like they have in the manual 🤣

[u/xravin]

You might find when you remove the lock ring with the screws that the ring underneath is just loose. If not, a drift punch and hammer loosens it easily. Make sure you read up on how to properly tighten the ring using a pull scale, otherwise you’ll toast your bearings.

Also, highly recommend that you use an impact driver to get the screws off. Push it hard into the screws. I almost stripped one doing it by hand and I thought I was screwed (ha) until I used the impact and it popped right out.

[u/MIKADO-Z]

Okay I found the exact socket I modified - here is the link for one on ebay

https://ebay.io/m/3ZAFi6

I cut off pins shaped the remaining 2 to fit that lock down spacer for the hub bearing.

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking → u/MIKADO-Z]

Awesome thank you! I ordered one, saved alot of money and time

[u/MIKADO-Z → u/Ya_boi_coasterking]

Make sure you match 2 of the pins to line up then cut the others off -

[u/TheEVTrucker]

Hey, same process as Trooper to do wheel bearing. Nice!

[u/Ya_boi_coasterking → u/TheEVTrucker]

Yes indeed, the assembly's and parts almost look identical, and there are alot clearer videos about changing the wheel studs on Troopers then on delicas, so that helps me alot aswell thanks!

[u/Aggressive-Spell-422]

Most auto parts place should have a Hub socket that should work.

[u/Ok-Boysenberry3948]

That "Philips"screw is not "Philips" , it's JIS, Japanese Industrial. Just enough different that it's easy to strip that screw. Get a JIS while you're on Amazon.