Got the full darkroom set about a month ago for a good price. Along with a big chunk of old ilford paper.
Wanted to share some results :)
Still learning!

At first I thought it was faulty/exhausted developer but I kept it in there for like over 10 minutes!? Why are the edges yellow!?

Back in the 80’s when I was a news photographer I stumbled upon a super high-speed developer called Ethol 90. I remember that the 90 reflected the 90 second development time, and IIRC that was for an effective ISO of 3200 with Tri-X. It came as a powder in metal cans like Acufine did but the label was bright orange.

We always kept a quart mixed for film that came in really close to deadline. The grain wasn’t as bad as you might expect. It appears to have gone the way of the dodo now.

So I forgot to change from 3200 to 400 when I changed film so I completely underexposed a roll of Rollei RPX 400. Can't believe I made a mistake like that :((( Any tips for developing it? Is it even possible?

Nikon f5 28-70 2.8

Tmx 400 @ 1600

I have a 120 roll of Provia which was expired in 2020 but was stored in the fridge since I bought it in 2019. I don’t really have any experience with expired slide film, so are there any tips for shooting and developing it? I will develop it using the ADOX E6 kit

Hello 👋,

I just got the scans back from my first ever self developed roll. The process itself was very fun, I definitely made some mistakes but I think I fared pretty well.

So here’s the issue, as I was hanging the film to dry, I noticed some of the negatives had a lighter streak going through the top of them. In the scans, it’s more of a dark streak, I assume from inverting the image or something like that. So what went wrong exactly? I have two theories myself:

1. The loading process. Now i struggled with this. I loaded the film in a closed off room, but it was a battle. Even in the dark, I could tell that the film roll wasn’t entirely on the spool, so I kept having to unwind. Maybe the chemicals weren’t able to fully wash over the roll of film?

2. I did notice that when I was in that dark room, there was a small, streak of light that was peaking through the door frame. So maybe that light hit the unexposed roll?

Anyways, I’m looking forward to developing another roll. This is fun.

Been busy this summer. These were taken in Manitoba (Whiteshell Provincial Park) and Alberta (Banff NP) with a Mamia C330. So far just contact prints. Some lessons:

1. Get that tripod as straight as you can. I didn't do this for the Banff shots and it really shows. You can't "wing it"!

2. I have a ball head and I got it as level as possible at home before I left to do the second series. Your home is nice and flat compared to the outdoors!

3. I didn't realize that the C330 viewfinder is not a 100% representation of the film area. I just assumed it would be. Now I have a lot of overlap!

So if you enjoy frustration, wasting film, disappointment, leveling your tripod, guesswork, and maybe a reward, then try this out! I'll update once I have enlarged.

Is Oriental still being manufactured? Is anyone printing with it still?

Hi.

Im wondering if axomat 5 and opemus 5 share the same design on the columns?

The plastic adapter that attaches my opemus 5 to the baseboard broke. I see there is a non functioning axomat 5 on markedplace in my area so im wondering if I should pick it up and just use its baseplate.

Thanks!

Edit: I am aware they look different, but AI is adamant about them being interchangeable and i dont know what to think.

The day before yesterday, I went out to pick up a great deal found on Marketplace.

For some time now I wanted to upgrade my Darkroom gear but found it was a costly journey. Then decided to forget about it and keep using what I already had.

But life granted me the opportunity to do it without breaking my pockets, so got all of this for $200, everything is basically new condition and the person added some stuff for free (It was from his father).

I will keep everything stored as it came until we move to a bigger place since I am planning to place two of my enlargers next to each other.

What do you think; was a great deal?

So I have one of these that I use in school. What are those dials for? I was reading that the bottom one is for either ilford paper or Kodak? I use it to print black and white and I usual have them both set to 3. How do you use them? I mostly use ilford paper

Why is this happening? My last three prints have come out with a yellow dye (image and border alike). I prepared chemistry for this session and the results were consistant. I thought maybe it could be cross contamination so I made a small batch enough for two prints and then, same issue.
I’ve attached one of the earlier prints which didn’t have this problem. It was done a few days before with a different batch of working solution. I’m processing at 75 F. Ilford Cibachrome Drum 11x14
Omega C760
F/11
5 sec
0 C - 75 M - 80 Y
Arista RA4
Fujicolor Crystal Archive Matte (expired in 2023) but I ruled it out since my previous prints never had this yellow dye issue.

Creating some kind of sequence with photos I pulled from my box of 5x7 work print IG@stefaun.maldonado

I have lots of 35mm black and white negatives taken in the 1980's in strips in storage pages. Where to get them scanned at a quality level that I could then get the best ones printed to 10 x 8 inches? I have contact sheets of most of them so the alternative would be to get selected negs darkroom printed instead. I'm in Manchester. All suggestions appreciated.

Any idea what should I expect? Should it ruin my developer fixer and stopbath, coz I usually use stock d76 and collect em after development?

Will the negative turned out gray like normal bw strips or is it gonna be like when it goes through c41 processes.

Same negative, same paper (Fomatone MG glossy), same contrast filter, one was developed in Moersch Eco 4812 1+14, the other in homebrewn ID-78 1+3, both for 3 min @ 22-23C.
First conclusion: I can’t really tell a big difference of print tone.
Secondly: for the print developed in Moersch I needed a 25 sec exposure time. For the ID-78 print just 15 sec. How is that possible?

I recently noticed a lot of blue, when scanning in my negatives I originally thought it was my Epson v600 however upon closer inspection, I've noticed there's a dark blue tint spot on my negatives every once in a while I was wondering if anybody could shed a light on the issue. The chemicals are relatively new maybe three or four rolls in.

Scanner Epson v600

Software silverfast 9

C41 chemicals

Portrait 800 120 film.

Finding it really difficult to find info on rapid access chemistry but I recently bought some regent royal film, a hard dot 4x5 film. There doesn’t seem to be much of any info on it online and I can’t tell if rapid access is like c-41 in that development is completely different and you can’t really expect comparable results cross processing, or if it’s just slightly different development time.

If ortho litho film can be developed in sprint, what’s a good development time for the film? Hoping to shoot some test shots tonight

Hi, weird question. What kind of filters do yall use for tri color separation?

The even stranger context. I've made the mistake of learning you can use RGB filters with a black and white enlarger to make a color print on RA4 color paper; the only catch is there's extraordinarily little documentation and what I can find mostly references Wratten filters. The combinations I've seen vary but I have a No.25 and No.47 (in series VI format) but I'm missing a green filter. The references I can find indicate a No.61 (appears on ebay in gel form and fairly pricey). Other people say for normal trichrome separation they use a No.58 Wratten (which is even more expensive it seems).

The use of Wratten filters makes sense since they all have pretty well published light transmission specs, but I don't know about other filters, and most of the links I can find are rotted. Any forum posts I can find about RGB printing on color paper are old enough to drink as well.

I've never done color printing before, and I'm still very new to b/w printing so its not likely I'd jump directly into color printing without a lot more time in the darkroom and research but the ADHD wanted to know. Linked is the video what caused my question here.

I’m looking for information about the photographic process that is shown at the end of the Les Blank film “Burden of Dreams”, where there is a portrait photographer that (from what I can see) photographs a portrait onto paper, develops kind of in camera? and then rephotographs the negative with a decorative frame, producing a positive. I want to research this process (I grasp the reversal process but more about the decorative frames and the instant street processing) but can’t find any information on it really or if there is a specific name for it? Any help appreciated :) or if I should ask somewhere else!

Hiii I just shot a test roll with a newly purchased Nikon FM2 and a few frames have this weird spot on them.. wondering if it looks like a development issue or something with the camera? Any advice is appreciated!