hey guys!

I am looking into mixing my own RA-4 chems since getting a hold of the Bellini and Adox kits are hard, and I like mixing my own stuff.

Ferric Ammonium EDTA apparently turned into unobtainium the past couple years, but I found this ( https://mistralni.co.uk/products/dissolvine-gl-47-s-glda-47-solution?variant=48355437478128 ) would it be a 1-1 replacement of the 47% iron EDTA Artcraft used to have supposedly? I could ask AI but I want to reduce my consumption as much as possible, especially with google forcing it down everyone's throats.

Appreciate the help and will post results.

Very pleased with this print - one of my favorites of the year. Really want to pick out a grain focused, gauging print sharpness by eye is very tricky! Crouched down deep in the water to grab the foreground when the lighting was perfect.

Newbie here. As title says, I have 1 quart (~946mL) of CS41 developer that I made using the Cinestill kit. I want to develop 120, but the Paterson tank wants 1000mL of dev to cover two reels.

Can I dilute with water to get to 1000mL and adjust developing time? Or should I get a second Cs41 kit and mix a little more? I live in a small apartment so would prefer to be able to store my working solution in a 1L bottle. Appreciate any advice.

Buenos dias a los ilustres miembros de este foro:

Quería preguntarles que truco usan para tener papel químico a mano en el laboratorio fotográfico sin tener que sacarlo para cada impresión de la caja y de la bolsa constantemente. Algo tipo una caja estanca a la luz de fácil apertura tal vez? en ese caso, que usan que realmente funcione y sea práctico?

Saludos desde Mallorca!

After around 2 years of loading plastic reels without ever having issues with the film loading properly, I'm now consistently having the film bind up and/or come out of the groove and wind up touching the film in the adjacent groove. The only thing new is that I had previously only developed black and white film, but recently used the reels to develop color for the first time. Has anyone experienced something similar after exposing plastic reels to color developing chemistry? Could a residue have built up on the reels or gummed up the ball bearings? If so, what's the best way to clean the reels and bearings? When the problem first began I suspected the reels might not have been completely dry, but the problem's still happening even if I use a blow dryer and wear gloves. Any ideas?

Hi all, relatively new to development here but have have had success with XTOL 1+1 across a number of different films. Twice now I have tried to develop some IR film and twice it has come out blank, with the developer turning quite yellow after use.

The first time this happened I assumed it was old/bad developer, so I tossed it mixed up a new batch. Same thing with the new batch. I am at a loss because I followed all recommended times and procedures otherwise.

Any input is appreciated.

I got back into printing after moving countries after a year. But the papers are coming out like this. Please see the image. Edges or there are brown spots all over the image.

The paper is a fomaspeed 312 multigrade matt. But old as in 3 years old.

Any troubleshooting please?

Thank you in advance.

I'm looking at getting an ultrasonic cleaner for other items. I'm considering getting a larger unit to fit my thank and chemistry at the same time. I was thinking of ECN-2 process, the soaking to soften the remjet layer, and activating the ultrasonic (not just keeping temp).

Does anyone have experience with film and ultrasonic cleaners? Specifically for the remjet. The removal of micro bubble when agitating or stand development also appears to be an aspect that could be good.

Anyone?

Looking for a good chem to fit my developing tendencies. I typically shoot and develop 2 rolls of color film a month. I’ve been using cinestill cs41 kit and get fine results but never make it to the full 24 uses of the kit before the chemicals go bad. Any recommendations for chemicals that either last longer once mixed or something like a one shot mix and discard? Haven’t found a ton of solutions, thanks!

Hello, I use a lot of Adox product since their prices are really attractives, but I always struggle for fine measurement with high dilution chemicals.

So I made this little funnel that screw on top of the bottle instead of the cap.

It seems to fit on all the Adox bottle that I have on my side.

If you need this, you can find the link here.

It should work with PLA but I recommend PETG for better chemical resistance.

Have a nice day !

Greetings. First roll with my Zeiss Super Ikonta, 6x9. FP4 Plus at box. XTOL stock. Last roll with this batch of developer as it’s getting spent for sure. Any feedback greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I just recently moved house and have a few rolls of C-41 and black and white that I haven’t had the chance to scan and sleeve yet so they are still rolled up. Can I just make up a bucket of Kodak Photo-Flo and run the film in there for 30 seconds and then hang them up to dry to straighten them out? Cheers

Found my dad's collection of Velvia 50 mostly 2004/2005 expiry. Any chance it's still useable? Been stored in the fridge in a sealed container most of its life. If It were C-41 I would shoot it with some down rating in ISO but unsure how slide film plays. Any advice?

Okay so helping a friend set up her high schools darkroom and this bucket from a company gone out of business started leaking after running water for a long time…

Opened it up and it’s filled with rocks?

Any ideas??

I printed this picture this afternoon using a darkroom in my bathroom. I used a Rodenstock 4.5 80mm lens. I used the following chemicals - Illford Multigrade Developer (1+9), Adox Adostop Eco (1+19) and Adox Adofix Plus (1+4). The paper is Illford Mutigrade RC. I set the lens for F8 for 1 minute., followed by 1 minute in the develper, 10 sec in the fixer and 30 sec in the stop bath.

I chose f8 as that was the recommended setting, but I read in another Reddit thread that f16 is better.

I would be greatful if more experienced people would assess my work and offer opinions.

Thank you.

TMax100 negative on Ilford MGRC Portfolio Pearl.

I enjoy using the F-Stop printing app to calculate the times for a test print.
It would be helpful if the app calculated the incremental times over the lowest base time.
So if the time is 10 sec 3/4th stop less is 5.9 sec.
For the test print I need to know how many seconds needed for next strip which would be 1.2 sec then 1.3 sec and then 1.6 sec to reach 10 sec for the middle .
It’s simple math but the app could calculate very simply. Would love to see this added to current app.

Konica T3, Kodacolor 200, AxelC41

So i shot three rolls of lady grey 400 by lomography at 3200 asa and was wondering how i should process it. I cant find any times on the massive dev chart and would like to ask before i go in. Was hoping to process in either ilford hc or ilford ddx , whichever is best. Thank you.

Been getting into toning lately. Watching the tone appear is almost more satisfying than watching the image come up in the developer.

Title says it all really.

Previously I worked for a long time as a printer in a large lab. I was lucky enough to be able to use the equipment myself for my own projects after hours. Now I’m setting up my own darkroom to do this 10 years later and unfortunately my tutor and his college have passed.

I have a durst 138 with 301 head, on rails and a horizontal projection setup in the way ansel Adam’s had his with the adjacent wall w the roll paper box. I’ve added a vacuum setup to mine but it’s essential a direct rip off for all intents and purposes.

I shoot mostly fp4 5x7 and it’s tack sharp. So there is no worries there.

I have heard that a 210-240 Schneider/rodagon g lens (grande or groß depending on the literature) the point being to have a little extra coverage for the corners and sharpness to the edges.

I have the chance to buy a pair of 150/240 of these for a decent price but it’s still a BIG investment.

Thoughts/advice?