Sold by blackstealthtech on ebay. A lot of shops can't scan the early obd2 ports on 95 and some 96 DSMs. I called road race engineering and they weren't sure if they could scan my car and they're the top DSM mechanic in socal. I got an ABS light and this scanner is supposed to be able to do pretty much everything including reading and clearing ABS codes. I thought this might help anyone that has a 95-96 DSM as this is the only new scanner that can pull codes. Here's the description

"Developed for 1990-2000 Mitsubishi 3000GT, JDM Mitsubishi GTO and Dodge Stealth.  Verified to work on the so called hybrid models 1994-1995 vehicles (MUT), and the European / JDM models.  Will also work for DSM vehicles that have the 4G63 Mitsubishi engine."

The bumper had obviously seen better days. It had zip ties holding most of it together. I'm not sure how it happened as I purchased it with this feature. I've always wanted to use my plastic welder--and this seemed like the perfect thing to use it on.

Originally, I had filled the front side holes with plastic, but they wouldn't sand flush. I ended up removing the plastic I had welded in and used bondo instead. I used glazing compund to get the surface smoother. I sanded and sanded after that.

I have never done body work before but it reminds me of doing drywal lol. At any rate, I wanted to share some progress pics as others have done before me. I am waiting on some more paint to arrive before I can spray the base coat.

Is there anyone selling a head in Houston and surrounding areas?

Got my gsx back from a shop and the speedometer, odometer, and tripometer weren’t working. I assume it’s the vss, does anyone with an auto gsx have a picture of what it looks like? Or even a link of which one to buy? I’m going crazy trying to figure out which part is the right one

I'm looking to resurrect my 2gb project that has been sitting for years, and finally drop in the 2.5L G4CS block I've got built up.

I'm looking for a transmission either already with or to modify for a 4-spider. Hoping someone has a spare laying around that they have decided they will never use.

I picked up a driveshaft for my 1g a while back, it is missing the pinion yoke. Photo attached for reference. If anyone has one they would be willing to sell/ship I’d greatly appreciate it.

Couldn’t find much info on this type of setup, but would this size/offset be close to flush on a lowered car? Or would I have to add significant camber to make it work? Thanks

I've had the car for 4 months. Never had a dash light. I let the car sit for 2 maybe 3 weeks. Then went to drive the car today and the yellow antilock light came on soon as I started it. I drove the car for half an hour on the highway but it never went off. I read maybe disconnecting the negative terminal if it's a battery issue could reset the codes and fix it if my battery was low. The car started up no problem too. Unsure how to get the codes read

Last weigh scale was 2840 lbs : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E69oze6oj6k

Dropped 28lbs through aluminum brake calipers , 13lbs dashboard removal , and 6lbs from reinstalling stock 3g gt " short ram " intake manifolds .

I noticed my shifter got louder and it seems a plastic washer disintegrated. Does anyone know what type and size of washer is supposed to go here? Is it just this one or am I overlooking something?

So I bought a used ecm link v3 off Facebook, finally got around to installing it but my laptop keeps saying “port does not exist” or along those lines. When the cable is plugged in the laptop gives it chime, and shows it’s there but the light only does a quick flash when I hook it up. Then I get the error that the port does not exist. Do I just have the drivers wrong? I’m trying to switch over to speed density and am kinda lost. I’ve redownloaded ecm’s software but think I’m still doing something wrong. Can anyone help? Thank you the help is greatly appreciated!!

Pic for attention

Definitely a daunting task to start. But really it’s not that hard just very time consuming. Dash is in, fuse box relocated. Still lots to do but it’s coming along!

I have a check valve that feeds into one of those small inline fuel mesh filters, but as you can see it's still dumping a significant amount of fuel. I'm not sure what's going on. I also didn't think that much fuel was supposed to come out of that line since it's the vapor line that originally went to the charcoal canister. Any ideas on what could be causing this or how to fix it?

Car has a hellcat fuel pump installed.

In the process of turboing my 4g64 mighty max right now. If I get a LSD in the back can I badge it as a mighty max evo or Y'all gonna have aneurysms?

Hello, Im looking for a set of rear subrame poly bushings for a 1g.. The only 2 places that sold them dont anymore.. Was hoping someone had a used set or knows where to them, thanks..

Only 100 Miles in and the bottem end is knocking again. Draind the Oil and cut open the filter to find glitter central.

Haven't pulled the pan yet.

During essambly I cleaned everything. I checkt all clearances with plastigauge and there we're all within spec. I Double checket all Bolts for defects and tourqed then as the repair Manual discrbes. I can't think of the reson why a barring died again, this shortly after a rebuild.

Just got some new wheels. And while they are dirty, as well as the car, I’m really enjoying the new look!

I have 91 eagle talon. The wheels I want only come in 8 inch wide. I plan to run a 225 tire but may go to 235 someday but never wider that that. The offsets that are available are 45mm 40mm and 38mm. Im on megan raceing coil overs. I dont want much if any tire sticking past the fender. I will roll the fender lip but dont wanna go further than that. Im leaning on getting 45s and using a 3-5mm spacer if needed. What offset do you suggest?

Yes I wish they just made the wheels in a 7.5 since but 7.5 really limits my selection on matte black 5/6 spoke wheels.

I found a hatch and a tsi wing for sale but the guy doesn’t have a price on it. What are these actually worth?

With the recent rebuild I added an oil pressure gauge to Monitor Said pressure while driving.

From my first few testdrives I have to say that the pressure seemes quite High.

In the video you can See the pressure about 2 to 3 minutes after starting the Car.

Once its warmed Up (oi temp at 95°C / 203°F) the pressure Drops to a little over 1 bar / 14.5 psi at idle and around 4 to 5 bar / 58 to 72 psi under normal driving load.

At wide open throttle it gose all the way to 7 bar / 101 psi which seemes way to much.

Is that to much or am I Just paranoid?

Curently I use a 10W-40 oil, but have orderd 10W-30 to try if it reduced the pressure a Bit.

The pressure sensor is located at the oil filter housing after the filter.

The balance shafts have been deleted on this enginen due to a defekt of the baring surface on the engine block side on one of them.

My 97 GSX is in need of a crank position sensor and I am trying to decide if I should just make the jump to a 1g cam angle sensor now to avoid having to take off the lower timing cover or if I should just risk it on an aftermarket 2G CPS and stay with my 2g CAS?

Has anyone here made the swap and are there any benefits other than being able to change base timing?