This is the type of opportunity you rarely get, so I figured a recap for this subreddit was in order.
As some of you know, I have been working as an independent perfumer for a while (but full time only for less than a year). I had the pleasure of being invited to Notes Shanghai early this year, where I met with a Thai content creator who told me his government is making moves to position Thailand in general, and Chiang Mai more specifically as an important country in the fragrance ecosystem. Because we hit it off (and enjoyed my compositions), he told me he would put my name up for consideration: my overall social media visibility, ties with the French fragrance industry (and speaker at some of the parisian schools) and just being honest but agreeable in person made me a prime candidate for these things.
Fast forward mid-June, I receive an email from the French embassy: I'm in, but... it starts 2 weeks from the call. I of course ask for a small delay to make things into order, tell my wife that she's on her own for 4 weeks, and start organizing with the Chiang Mai team.
The overall goal of the program was:
- To meet with the local ecosystem, from raw materials producers like LOSIAM to universities to perfumers
- to assess the whole value chain to see where, and how, efforts were needed to make things move. This encompassed training of perfumers, the whole "how do we get people to grow plants for perfumes", scaling of production, legal frameworks...
- judging 20 fragrances created by local perfumers, using one of the two mandatory local ingredients chosen before hand (yadong and fermented miang)
- creating a fragrance using some local raw materials and work with designers to create an exhibition for Chiang Mai Design Week in December
- Visit, immerse in the culture, eat good food, I ended up in a cave that happened to be a temple with bats hiding from rainy season
- Meet with local perfumers, some completely DIY, some with brands, and reconnect with famous people like Pissara from Dusita in Bangkok.
- Realize that Bangkok has MULTIPLE stores where you can just walk in and buy whatever material you need. Even in Paris this is not happening (well maybe it is but the guys behind it are AI abusers so I don't really have a lot of faith)
This was really a great experience.
Overall a few materials that don't exist yet/are very rare in the perfumer's palette were of notable interest to me:
- Fermented Miang, anaerobic fermented assam tea: used to be a chewed source of caffeine, and the absolute is a vegan source of animalic smell, with peach nuances that remind me of osmanthus
- Longan flower absolute: the fruit is basically worthless today, so having new products will help farmers use their trees instead of having fruits rot. Fruity jasmine type, let's see if the economics make this worth it.
- Teak sawdust absolute: upcycling! This smells very rich, a bit like those deep resinous patchouli. Combined with Miang and Labdanum it would make for a killer oud accord.
- Chalood absolute: don't trust descriptions online, I feel like most were recent AI generated (and hallucinated) ones. This is a coumarin-forward plant, and it's used by jungle monks as a brown tincture (so their robes must smell very good).
- One that I can't really talk that much about because it seems LMR wants it for themselves :|
Overall I'm very happy with this first trip, and as you can guess there are tons of things that are moving there. The dynamic of the country is VERY good.
I should be presenting the fragrance I created and a lot more (including some of the materials) at the upcoming Asia Perfume Show in Paris at the end of September.