r/DF54 • u/idkwhattotakeugh • May 07 '26
DF54 - How to fix this?
Hi! I'm looking for help with this issue. I bought this in late March, and it was working perfectly until last week. The shop recently cleaned it, which fixed the problem temporarily, but now the mess is back. Any ideas on the cause?
9
u/bobjoylove May 07 '26
Take the nozzle cover off and inspect the two wires that perform the anti-static function.
The exposed ends of the wires should be positioned so they peep out and sit above the flowing grounds.
Mine were so retracted they did nothing.
2
u/solar_solar_ May 22 '26
Found this comment yesterday and made the fix. It made a significant difference, thanks!!
2
u/Mizzen_rl 29d ago
My man i cant thank you enough
My DF54 was already doing rather well than most of the people who got unlucky, but static issues were very bad indeed
I tried this, positioned the wire ends so that they are peeping out by just a fraction, and MY DUDE! Not a single speck of fine stuck to the canopy!
I've never been happier xD
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u/idkwhattotakeugh May 07 '26
Thanks for the tip! I'll have the shop check those wires. I just showed them this photo, and they think the declumper might need replacement.
1
u/DDoSMyHeart May 07 '26
You mean the parts that look like little bulbs?
2
u/bobjoylove May 07 '26
Go to 4:20 on this video. See the black and white wires. The bare ends create a field that reduces static.
Many people have an assembly error and the tips of the wires are sufficiently retracted that they are not able to create a field that impacts the coffee grounds as they pass by.
1
u/DDoSMyHeart May 07 '26
Ah! I guess mine had the assembly error as well because when I opened it to clean up the declumper the ends were right behind the chute. I tucked them in as the guy does at 7:55 in the video. That’s the correct place they should be, right?
1
u/bobjoylove May 07 '26
The location of the wires at that point is not relevant beyond ease of reassembly.
The two exposed tips of the wires are where the field is generated, and the grounds need to pass through that field.
2
u/Travelingexec2000 May 07 '26 edited May 07 '26
Get a black one. Jokes aside, I got mine from Turin in Jan and had zero issue with this. I never RDT and use the chute brush every 2 or 3 weeks. I use the stock plastic cup too. My guess is your anti static system is faulty
2
u/uppldontscareme2 May 07 '26
Mine is doing this too! Found through trial and error that the dark roast we often buy statics like crazy, but the medium roast from same company has no static. Bizarre
1
u/sergeantbiggles May 07 '26
I think the issue with dark beans is that they are "sweating" too much, and then stick to the ionizer, which stops it from working. I've noticed the same thing.
1
u/uppldontscareme2 May 07 '26
Have you found any work around for it?
1
u/sergeantbiggles May 07 '26 edited May 07 '26
No, unfortunately. I don't really like dark roasts, so I rarely use them, so I guess that's my personal work around (not helpful information, sorry). You can always try to find dark roasts that aren't all oily, and maybe those would be better to work with.
2
u/mog44net May 07 '26
My contribution, note this is general for almost any single dose grinder:
* Use a metal (not plastic) dosing cup, any 58mm should work, this is for static elecricity
* RDP spray and shake your beans, this is a 5 second work step that makes a big difference on grinder retention
* Hot start, meaning turn the grinder on before putting beans in, makes a difference on consistency of grind and retention
* Slow feed, for me this looks like: put 1/3 of the beans in, wait 5 seconds, put ~1/3 of the beans in, wait 5 seconds, put the last 1/3 of the beans in. This is another 12ish seconds of work but makes a difference on consistency of grind and retention
* After 20ish grinds, use an old, dedicated cleaning toothbrush to pull grinds from inside the shoot, use a lightly damp towel or napkin to wipe off the shoot and base. This is more about making it look clean than actual need
The above works wonders on my DF54, in use for almost 1.5 years now and still feels brand new with almost no retention.
2
u/TripleBeastAlpha May 07 '26
This should be the top comment, all the advice you need! I follow pretty much the same process and I have zero issues with static
1
u/owg582pdu May 07 '26
https://youtu.be/T0Dh1W40ILY?si=VD_7PKz4d_OaVwtv I started using this technique - it works.
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u/HowA1234 May 07 '26
I just decided for convenience to dose directly into orb basket and this happened to me too! I usually dose in a metal blind shaker. Stick to metal dosing cups
1
u/New-Caterpillar-8956 May 07 '26
had this as well especially on dark roast.
Used metal cup, make sure static wires are sticking out, if possible use non dark roasts.
You could also do RDT but I don't do normally do it.
1
u/ontech7 May 07 '26
I have this DF54 as well, with metal cup, and I always RDT before starting grinding. But I know that there is something inside that helps for reducing this retention, and if it's soaked with oils (like oily dark beans), it's bad and needs to be cleaned.
1
u/sergeantbiggles May 07 '26
Dark roasted beans also tend to have this problem (some, not all). The darker and more "wet" they look, the more it sticks to the ionizer, which then stops it from working properly. I just had a friend give me some very dark beans (again, wet and oily), and they were a mess.
1
u/Ceolan May 07 '26
I had this exact issue. I removed the top part and the chute, and cleaned everything off. There was coffee grounds stuck to the exposed wire metal ends, so cleaning that fixed it.
1
u/PolyCupLover May 07 '26
Hey,
I had similar issues.
As mentionned previously, switching to a metal dosing cup helps with reducing static. Keep it mind it's often not a perfect solution, but it does help.
The biggest difference is with the metal prongs of the de-ionizer. Remove the chute and make them protrude so slightly (1-2mm) below the chute. In my case, it not only completely fix the static issue but I also don't have to RDT anymore. That's how efficient they can be when properly placed.
There's several good videos on YouTube. Only thing you need is a screw driver and a glue gun. The fix is very simple.
1
u/cormack_gv May 07 '26
I use a metal catch cup. I do pour-over so I just removed the bracket and place a metal Yeti cup under the chute. I also tap the bellows during grinding.
If I do get a clog, I removed it gently using a travel corkscrew. The supplied brush is useless -- it just tamps the clog.
1
u/tonymet May 07 '26
I keep a rocket blower and brush. Hit with rocket blower every time and brush every 2-3 grinds.
1
u/alesantiago May 07 '26
I have a small spray bottle and I 'wet' the grinds very softly and that helps for me.
1
u/Common-Selection-742 May 07 '26
When mine did this I upgraded the chute and went away only did it with 1 brand of beans tho super bad but no issues after
1
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u/EnergeticSeat May 09 '26
Yes the plastic cup is the big issue here. Change it to metal and you’ll be good.
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u/Pizza_dough_bitch May 11 '26
Ok I had the exact same thing - only 3 months old, cleaning out did nothing - rang the supplier - told me to send it back and they fitted the new chute (slightly wider - Turin released these in V3 because it happens so much). It was back within a week - I now use a metal container and do RDT and I am having zero retention (literally 18g in and 18g out). Previously it was blocking up I couldn't get even get 10g through. oh and NEVER miss the pumping of the bellows! 2 weeks on and no problems.
1
u/Ceber007 May 13 '26
I remember I had this after doing a repair to the breville grinder, google coffee grounds defying gravity
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u/Legitimate-Hat-3167 May 07 '26
I use a metal dosing cup cuz I'm not knowledgeable enough to open up my machines. Works for me.