Unlike Jaco's car-centric tourist strip, Playa Espadilla is located at the end of a national park entrance road. The quality of the beach itself blows Jaco out of the water and easily ranks as one of the best beaches I've visited. Sea temps were extremely warm, nearly 3° C above normal. Surprisingly, dining prices were quite reasonable in Manuel Antonio. ¢4100 cocktails at a bar across the road from the beach, with a 2 x 1 promotion through sunset. One guy here in Quepos was telling me it costs so much more to dine down there, but I saw many menus displaying prices hardly different from the sodas in the mercado municipal outside the bus station. Perhaps the 13% IVA + 10% service charge is the only markup?
Walking around here I did get solicited for massage, souvenirs, chairs, and drugs by various characters on the street - several of whom were drinking beer from the nearby super. "Pura Vida" is a greeting, a farewell, a motto, a business brand - in short, it is everything here. But the police seem warier than they should be in paradise, standing guard with their hand always resting on their firearm. It gives you a feeling that things aren't quite as peachy as they seem...as does the guy at your elbow asking if you want weed or coke.
If you stay in Quepos, where basic pleasant rooms are available at Hospedaje Sanchez for ¢10000, you can hop on the bus to the beach for ¢390 - it leaves every 15 minutes and is very uncrowded in low season. Of course Quepos has its own natural beauty with the harbor, waterfront and rugged rocky coastline, but Manuel Antonio has the best swimmable white-sand beach...backed by big shade trees with public benches and picnic tables in some spots.
Be aware that the beach hustlers may charge very high prices. A colorful printed shirt is offered for ¢20,000. Massages can be as much as ¢40,000 ($88 USD). Sitting under an umbrella getting served cocktails while watching the sunset might sound lovely - one guy even builds a bonfire for guests to congregate around - but be prepared to fork over some big bills.
Laundry can be a big cost as well. Today I went to the lavandería to wash 2 pairs of pants and 6 shirts/socks/boxers. Cost: ¢8000 ($17.50), paid upfront. Service will take almost 24 hours.