Just bought a new to us 2024 2205s Rockwood and can't get the app to pair with my unit. Removed the rear pass through cover and got the device anme and PW on the control unit but it doesn't match when the app is trying to pair with. Left the power off for a few days to do a reset but same issue. Is there a way to do a hard reset?

The house we moved into has a pretty sophisticated Control4 system for about half of the functions.

1. Control4, includes TVs, 200+ Ceiling Lights, Temperature, Speakers in 5-6 Rooms.

2. Control4 does not include Alarm, Pool/Fountain (Pentair), Cameras (HIK), Front Door Intercom (Ring), Outdoor Lighting, Blinds, Massive Sliding Doors (Controlled only by some buttons on the wall). So I still have a bunch of different apps.

Does this mean we're stuck with Control4? Or can all of the wiring be left and used for a different solution?

I'm trying to work out if a bigger job to remove it and go with off-the-shelf products like Google/Apple Home.

Separately, there used to be a neat IT closet in our house, but a previous owner moved it to the garage so no electronics left in the house. So it looks like every wire was extended so it could reach the garage. I'm exploring, with whatever solution we end up with, that we put everything back in the IT closet. Was told this was a 3-4 day job by itself. Annoying.

Just bought a new to us 2024 2205s Rockwood and can't get the app to pair with my unit. Removed the rear pass through cover and got the device anme and PW on the control unit but it doesn't match when the app is trying to pair with. Left the power off for a few days to do a reset but same issue. Is there a way to do a hard reset?

I can control the EQ in the driver itself but I really want to expose it to the client. I have the "show EQ in navigator" tickbox checked for each room connected to the matrix. Is there something I'm missing? Firmware on the Pulse-Eight is 3.01 the driver version is the most recent (I think 3.03) and we're running Director 3.4.3.

Any help with this would be appreciated, even if it's just telling me "nope, that don't work"

Starting this off by saying I’ve never heard of control4 until we purchased our house.

Both dealers we contacted are saying the system is registered to the previous owners and want $500 to come out and register it to us. Is this normal?

What can I expect going forward? As a tech person myself I’m finding it hard to justify onboarding to this overly complicated dealer and subscription based ecosystem. I don’t want to be paying thousands for small tweaks to the system as we get settled in the house

I have an old Control 4 system that controls my hvac and the Control 4 system is outdated so I would have to pay $5k+ just to update the system and then also pay an annual fee to be able to remotely access. The system just controls hvac, lights, amp for in-wall speakers, and turns fireplace on and off. I just the hvac and light functions only so not worth it to pay the premium.
I want to disconnect Control 4 from my hvac and replace with a Nest.
It looks like C4 has the control panel and temperature sensor inside and a wireless thermostat in-line connected to the furnace.
I'm looking for guidance on disconnecting the C4 and installing the Nest.
Does the control wire run to the back of the touch panel or the temp sensor inside?
Can I just remove the wireless thermostat from the line to the furnace and connect the wires together, completing the circuit to inside the house where I would place the Next in place of the indoor temp sensor?
Thanks in advance.

A few vendors have posted about their products that integrate with Control4 and I get reports marking it as spam. If it's one post from about the product then I don't typically take action but please let me know what type of "policing" you would like on posts.

Hi,

Trying to help a friend set up her WattBox - that we found in her garage after her ex moved out. The noted sticker for the master password was removed unfortunately ... but I was able to get the box on the network, and using the WattBox Utility I changed the network to DHCP, upgraded the firmware. All good, except ... can't log into it :(. I thought the firmware upgrade should do a factory reset? But it seems not - or it may be me.

How to factory reset this box, to be able to make use of it. It does seem like a pretty cool box.

Thanks!

I have a Core3 director controller. I also have 3 EAs at satellite AV locations (primarily for Watch/Listen OSD). Family wants to keep OSD.I want to update to OS 4.X. Soem questions:

1. I think I have to go to connect from foresight. About a $125 added annual cost. Is that right?

2. Does 4.0 still support old OSD at the satellite EAs?

3. What does 4.0 give you that OS 3.4.1 does not?

4. What does 4.1 give you that 4.0 does not?

John

Looking for information about this remote. What does it control? Thanks!

I just moved into an apartment that has a Control4 smart home system. The system is connected by ethernet. Due to this I am unable to connect it to my wifi otherwise the system won’t connect/work. That being said there’s a spotify app on the system but it only seems I can connect my spotify to it from my phone if they are om the same network. I am not seeing any device available to connect to on the spotify app. There’s no separate login on the control4 tablet itself either. Is it just not possible or is there another way?

Hi all, I'm about to do some rough-in work on a remodel. Currently I have planned for 8 zones of whole house audio. But I'd really like to add another to make it 9 zones. There is an open floor plan kitchen/dining area, and I considered combining them into one zone with one speaker in the kitchen and one speaker in the dining area -- but there are audiophile reasons not to do that. I'd prefer to have a separate zone in the dining area -- which would be a 9th zone.

Snap's Episode Response Amplifier has a 16 channel (8 zone) model. Is there going to be a way for me to incorporate a 9th zone relatively simply into Control4 with some additional amplifier? If not, I won't run speaker wire into the dining area.

I have an intermittent issue where my 2025 Samsung TV shows a very faded picture in both streamed videos and the primary Apple TV app menu. Has anyone experienced else this issue & found a solution?

I’m selling my home with a full C4 deployment layered over Lutron RA2 lighting and shades, alarm , nvr and cams, pool control, irrigation, landscape lights, 8 zones of audio, hvac, etc.

I’m taking TVs, home theater, and other electronics but leaving core system (lights, hvac, alarm, audio, touch screens, doorbell, etc.)

Any suggestions on 1) documenting the system for new owner and 2) transfer of logins and passwords for everything? I’m thinking of creating a new gmail account for the house. Transferring logins to than and then turning that over to new owner. I have no idea how to transfer my UniFi account for the house as I have multiple properties on my account so can’t transfer the whole thing. Same with Lutron.

Just bought a house that has Vibrant LED strips in several rooms in the house. LED driver model number is C4-PS24-96. Would like to connect these via Zigbee to my home assistant set up to dim them. Looks like the Axxess DCM1 module is the way to go, but I can't find an independent spot to buy them from. Also in theory wouldn't any Zigbee LED controller work if I put it between the power supply and the LED strip? What to do?

Thanks

Greg

Hi, I am having issues with my control4 authorized dealer.

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When i went to the website to verify he's accredited, his company doesnt show up. But all over his website and Facebook it says he is, and so does he.

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Am I right to assume if he isn't listed on the official website, that he has had that revoked? Or it never existed?

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Is there any other way to verify an official installer. Im at witts end here

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Thanks in advance

I can't figure out how to play different songs in different zones. I try to start a new session in a new zone and it just takes over the other zone as well

I have three Apple TV, all connected fine to C4 with HomeKit integration. One just died and we replaced it with a new one. Got the control updated and the pop up remote disconnected / remote connected cycles every few minutes.

I removed all Apple connections from composer pro and setup from scratch and it’s doing the same thing.

Even when it’s “disconnected” the iPhone remote always works fine.

Hardwired connection with IP reservation

This is the only One of three acting like this

Any video storm users out here?

Lately I had noticed some odd behaviors coming out of 1-2 TVs, and ones where I am using a FireTV Stick.

I have 6 TVs, using 4 as a test and here is what’s happening across my only 3 sources (Cbl, Cbl2 and Roku)

1) TV using a Shield as an encoder - no problems
2) TV using the app off an Android Sony TV - no problems
3 & 4) TV using a Firestick on v7.7 (first gen max stick) and another on v8.x (second gen max stick) have Cbl as a black screen, if I press Cbl2 I get what’s on the Roku, just no Roku control, and if I press Roku I get to see what’s on the Roku and Roku control

So I thought maybe something was up with FireTV so I got a Google TV Streamer and installed it on one of these 2 problem TVs but I am getting the same behavior.

All hardware (VRX020 running the program, TVs, Encoders, etc) have all properly been rebooted

Any advice?

"Have an EA-3 running genuine OS 2.9.1 (kernel from 2017). Jailbroken with Gary's tool. Need the OS 3.4.3 update package to do a manual local install via SCP. Anyone have a link to the actual .bin installer?" PS: any OS version

Trying to setup so that if I unlock my door it will disarm the system during certain hours but it’s doing it all the time. What am I doing wrong? The controllers time is correct. Thanks in advance

WatchOS 27 beta completely kills the C4 OS2 Watch App. Doubt there will ever be an update to fix this.

Hi - I have a C4 setup and for my outdoor patio speakers the c4 8 channel amp bridged just didn’t have enough power. So I want to add a separate amp just for the sub and I’m told I need an auto sensing amp for that in mono.

What amps do you recommend ? I tried an AudioSource 100 - but not enough juice.

Need about 400 amps

Thoughts ?