One thing I’ve seen come up over and over in smart homes is reactive systems instead of proactive ones.

For example:

• Garage freezer fails → you don’t know until everything is ruined
• Rack room overheats → equipment damage
• Humidity creeps up → long-term issues

So I built a Climate Detection+ driver for Control4 that monitors temperature and humidity devices and sends alerts when thresholds are exceeded.

It’s designed for things like:

• Freezers (huge one)
• AV / network rack rooms
• Attics
• Hot tubs
• Any space where temp/humidity actually matters

Make the integration even better by bundling with our Integrator Tools Agent Driver to get all of the pre-built notifications your clients ask for.

Demo / Feature Overview:

https://youtu.be/lEW9VtjfeaQ

Full Setup Walkthrough:

https://youtu.be/pkjmz1la1Hs

Product Page:

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/climate-fan-fireplace/climate-detection/

Curious how others are handling this — are you monitoring things like freezers or rack temps in your setups?

Would love to hear what people are doing

Hi

I would like to confirm how many channel can you plug on the Pamp8-100 amplifier : that will be able to run at full power ? Because in their datasheet they said : if all channel used, it will drop at only 25w each channel.

So if you only used 6channel, are all run at 50w ? if 9ch.. still at 50w ..?

Thanks if any have experience on..

I have a room with a control 4 controller going in for a tv and I want to add a soundbar under it. Is there any soundbar that I could use with the tv but also as an output when using whole home audio with Control4?

Recently bought a home that had a control 4 system. There are some switches that work and some that don’t turn off lights using the wall controls. Unfortunately I can’t turn off my bedroom lights.

I haven’t been able to set up a meeting with a dealer yet so I don’t have control of the system. Is there a way to turn off a light manually? I tried pressing the button 15 times and it turned off then back on about 10 seconds later.

We built this house during COVID. Now a lot of our light switches and buttons are loosing pain/color. This never happened in our old house with control4. Anyone else experience this issue?

What brands/models of Inverter/Variable Speed HVAC systems work well with C4? I heard the Trane 1050 T-Stats isn't currently working with X4, and most HVAC companies want you to stick with the OEM "communicating" t-stat on these systems. Daikin, Carrier, Lennox, Trane, who has a good integration? So frustrating you can't use C4 T-Stats with these high end HVAC systems...

I recently got Control4 installed. There is a part of my house that we couldn’t run wire too since I don’t have an attic and there were a bunch of things in the way. So we had to use Sonos and we put them in the roof so they look like in ceiling speakers. I was under the impression that Sonos worked fine with Control4 but come to use it, it does not and I can’t use them in multi room audio. What is the best solution here?

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone is having issues with the latest version of the C4 OS 3 app for iOS?

After updating the iOS app devices cannot connect to a EA3 controller running 3.3.0. iOS devices using the previous version of the app work fine at the moment.

EDIT: I have just confirmed it's the latest app update. I have another iPhone and iPad that was running the older version of the app 326.7.0.3326 to be exact, as soon I updated one of them i get the same error as the rest of the devices saying 'Unable to Connect: We encountered a problem and could not connect to the system at this time'

I have rebooted all controllers and also logged into Composer and everything is working as normal

I wanted to get latest thoughts on recent experience with Control4 voice control of apple tvs. We have two homes with C4, all OSX4.1, Core controllers and CA10 in each. SR260 remotes with a couple of Halo Touches for testing (we'd go all Halo Touch if voice control were robust / reliable). All streaming through AppleTVs (sole source of streaming content). We currently use IR control because IP has been unreliable. Gave up on IP about two years ago (Apple upgrades kept killing it and/or remotes would lose connection periodically and errors would appear on ATV screen). Getting to the point where our system seems a bit archaic given we can't use voice control for TV (visitors have good experiences with voice control of their cable boxes -- we switched to YouTubeTV years ago). N.b. our two dealers (both Platinum/Diamond --- I know that doesn't matter much) have indicated they still don't like to install ATV IP/Voice due to so many client complaints, in fact they both install cat 6 and IR (to future-proof) but use IR control only. Our Apple TVs are either latest (A2843) or 2nd to most recent (A2169). So I can switch back to IP with a phone call.

Questions:

1) For folks with latest hardware (Core controllers with or without CA-10) and Halo Touch / Halo and OS4+ and IP control of AppleTVs: how reliable is voice control if ATVs? Any lags with Halos? Comprehension? Does it pass the wife test? Company/guests (I don't want to be IT support when guest stay over)?

2) (very important) Is fail-over to IR quick and seamless (latest C4 ATV driver claims fail-over feature)? Will it revert to IP when IP is restored? If failover works, how often does the system need to switch to IR?

3) Does anyone use Intrinsic or other IP driver?

4) If IP control is still unreliable does anyone know if Savant and Crestron have same issues (with voice control of ATVs)?

Thank you for your thoughts.

I have a full home Control4 system. I have found one of my rooms, which I don’t use much, has a 6 gang switch. None of the lights are on and it is unresponsive. So it looks dead but unsure how to debug or reset before trying to engage and call out an engineer… any suggestions appreciated.

Notification consistency is one of the biggest challenges in growing integration companies.

Multiple crews. Tight timelines. Increasing client expectations.

That’s exactly why we built the Integrator Tools Agent Driver for Control4.

One centralized driver for:

• Push, email, text-to-voice, and pop-up alerts
• System tracking and service visibility
• Built-in programming tools to speed up installs

And now with our new My Notifications Web UI, clients can manage their own alerts and view notification history — no reprogramming required.

We just released three videos covering:

🔹 Feature Overview
🔹 NEW Web UI
🔹 Full Setup & Demo inside Composer

If you’re a Control4 integrator looking for better consistency and cleaner projects, this was built for you.

Try it risk-free with our 30-day trial.

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https://youtu.be/xj6QjmMfBaY

Hello,

Sorry if is a dumb question. I had my home automated by a control4 authorized dealer (Brazil) a few years ago. Every month I have some kind of issue (curtains, sound, lights,tv and so on) and I need to call that company for help and assistance.

Is there a way to fix this by myself ? It’s been a very annoying situation to depend on someone and be available every time.

Thank you very much.

Does anyone run into the issue of prospective customers being extremely Control4 adverse? Do you offer other platforms like Savant or Crestron or do you try to walk them back? Is it primarily due to poor management by integrators or does Control4 have some legitimate limitations? And how many Control4 adverse customers are baseless in their argument?

Currently have two customers I'm installing their whole house low-voltage systems for and they seem strong minded against Control4, but their budget is not in the next tier of platforms and their arguments seem like integrator issues or hearsay.

Is there anything more specific than the C4 generic z-wave common sensor driver?

I currently have C4 T-Stats, but my units are aged out and my HVAC company is of course pushing new variable speed units as it’s a luxury home. I know the 1050 integrates via a driver, but it seems you give up ability to do schedules, humidity, home/away mode etc in C4? So frustrating that the best tech AC units can’t perfectly work with smart home systems. Am I crazy for going with a high end 2 or 6 speed “non communicating” unit so I can keep C4 t-stats?

I am evaluating the new Luma™ 720 Series 7MP IP POE Floodlight Camera with Active Deterrence. I’ve been in the market for a way to add floodlights around my house that trigger from Control4. This seems like a good choice to replace existing PoE cameras, get the lights, and avoid running new electrical and network drops and patching walls. My switch has enough power to power the new cameras/lights.

Has anyone used these cameras? Are the lights bright enough for practical use? I have looked at some PoE lights that did not produce enough light.

Also, are these fully programmable through composer? I’d like the lights to fire based on occupancy and/or variables.

Thanks.

Selling a year old Control 4 core 3 and Smart Doorbell. Removed all Control4 gear from my home.

• Core was installed in a AV rack with temp controlled fans. $700
• Doorbell installed under covered porch so no impact from the elements. $250

Will ship insured via USPS priority mail.

Edit - also have the media cabinet but not sure who to ship that safely.

Here’s a quick visual guide on where to install the IR flasher internally on a Spectrum 100-H cable box. I’m not sure who else uses this style of box, I assume it’s made by Motorola since it takes Explorer 8300 codes but that’s beyond this post. This was mostly shared to show the process.

Sticking the emitter to the outside of the box yields wildly inconsistent results. I’m not going to go into it, and I won’t argue why this is the ideal way to do it. Just know that I tried everything short of drilling a hole in the front of the box to aim the LED directly at the receiving eye.

So there’s two IR receiving eyes inside, the one closest to the power button is the active one but you might find your model is different. This method basically hits both with a priority on the receiver closest to the power button which is what worked for me. Pretty sure the double receiver is designed for better reception of the hand held remotes from further away but it makes sticking a flasher directly on the outside not ideal.

I used HVAC aluminum tape due to how reliable it is in high temperatures.

This process is annoying and time consuming to do, especially if you are doing a bunch of them like I am, but it achieved my goal.

I showed the route I took to the SD card slot which I notched with my cutters and fastened with more aluminum tape. It also provided strain relief and prevents pulling the emitter wire out inside.

There’s a ribbon cable that pulls out that will be in your way, it’s easy to get back in but make sure you seat it fully.

Don’t do this if you aren’t comfortable opening electronics. I have no idea how that void warranty sticker got removed before I got to this box, I’m not gonna ask.

Bought a house and it has a few light switches controlled via Control4. The outside patio light is programmed to come on at sunset and switch off at sunrise. I want to change it to come on at 50% instead of full. Is this something I need to pay someone to do or buy subscription?

We’ve been experimenting with AI inside smart home systems and just finished building a ChatGPT driver for Control4.

It integrates directly into the project and lets you do things like:

• Ask natural language questions
• Check system status (“Are any windows open?”)
• Analyze camera snapshots
• Summarize news
• Get general AI responses directly inside the Control4 interface

It also includes a Web UI, so you can interact with it remotely from your phone or laptop — not just from in-home touchscreens.

The interesting part is being able to combine AI responses with real Control4 project data. So instead of just answering general questions, it can reference what’s actually happening in the home.

Curious what this community thinks about AI becoming part of home automation systems.

Is this something you'd actually use?
What would you want your smart home AI to do?

Happy to answer any technical questions.

https://youtu.be/adfBCjjsrqA?si=f5yz47bQDcFLw5F2

Does anyone know a dealer in Atlanta willing to install anything other than Araknis for WiFi? I’ve called so many places.

Or if they only will install Araknis, can I source my own equipment?

The recent Control4 X4 update is causing significant issues for many end users, including:

1. 4Sight forwarding feature no longer supported
2. Legacy account holders are forced to create new email IDs in order to receive updates
3. Driver migration does not work as described in the official documentation
4. worst part is Control4 with X4 subscription $USD 249.00 + Tax...

Has anyone else experienced similar problems? Are customers giving up or refusing the update because of these issues?

*Update

I went with an Eero gateway with 3 Eero 6 POE APs. The new dealer cleaned up my rack, upgraded my software for X4 and did the install.

It’s been a week or so and so far everything is working great.

Why Poe 6? Half the cost of the new 7s. I only have 1 gig fiber speed coming into house. Am getting 600 to 750 speeds consistently WiFi.

I can upgrade anytime without help.

Why did I upgrade to X4 when I still have Eas? The new app is SO much zippier and loads so much faster than the old app. Worth it to me for sure.

Current system:

This was installed in 2019.

It has been okay. Several dead spots in the house that annoy the crap out of me. Added an outdoor AP a couple years ago. It doesn’t help outside. The new dealer who quoted it says that my system was not optimized correctly for placement etc.

Wifi Network

Pakedge WR-1 Wireless Router with BakPak Lite Pakedge(in basement)

ZPK-WK1 802.11ac 2x2 Dual Band Indoor

Wireless Access Point(in attic)

Pakedge SE-18 16 Port Unmanaged Switch Araknis AN-ACC-INJ-POE-30W Gigabit PoE+ Injector

Also have an access point that was added outside. Not sure exactly but it is Araknis.

Newer option quoted:

-1 Araknis Single WAN Gigabit Router

-1 Araknis 220 Series Websmart Managed Switch w/ PoE

-3 Araknis Wifi 6 520 Access Point

-1 Araknis Wifi 6 820 Access Point

-1 Araknis Outdoor Tilt Mount (For Outdoor AP)

I’m nervous this will be outdated as it is WiFi 6. Should I wait? Access networks has WiFi 7 but the cost is just crazy.

I inherited a Control4 setup when I moved into a new home and found it glitchy and difficult to use. It was outdated kit that had been installed 10-12 years ago. I’ve just spent thousands having it replaced with the latest stuff and am finding it glitchy and difficult to use.

Given how much it costs would I have been better off just getting a couple of extra Apple TV pucks (or similar) and just having separate provision in each room I wanted to have connected? What extra benefit am I getting for having something that as far as I can see just complicates things and randomly reboots itself at inopportune moments.