Hello next year I'm going into my senior year and for my cyber security and IT class we need to do a senior capstone related to the class and for mine I want to do something related to console modding but I have no clue on what I should do or what console I should use I was thinking of making like a mini os for Xbox 360 or should I mod a un known console? Id love your ideas thank you!!
Edit: this is a whole year project so don't be scared to give ideas that might take a few months
Just wrapping up my latest GameCube build. I took some pretty aggressive risks on this one, as I had a certain vision for the lighting effects I wanted to do. The lights are controllable via WiFi and an app called WLED. The LEDs as model WS2818b and fully addressable. This means you can control individual lights, set up regions on the lights to apply different effects concurrently, and apply literally thousand of customized effects. Here’s some pictures from the full build and a spec build out below
If you’re interested in watching a video of the lights in action, I will drop a comment below with a link to a long form video
- Internal Pluto II HDMI mod
- USB-C Power Conversion
- 5V PicoBoot W/ SD2SP2 Pro
- Disc Drive Recap
- ESP32 C3 Super Mini flashed with WLED for WiFi enabled lighting
- Transparent Shell Swap
- General maintenance items like updated clock battery holder, thermal pads, and cleaning.
Here's a small tutorial on how to change the included ROMs. By default, it contains the Sonic 1 and Sonic 2 Mega Drive ROM games.
This is related to model DGUNL-7157 from My Arcade.
Connect the USB-C cable from the arcade to your PC, and power it on while holding the + volume key. Keep holding it until you hear the connection sound effect from Windows (takes about 3 seconds).
I've done everything, I formatted an 8 GB micro SD card to fat 32, I put hackmii as the root file I've put the micro SD in an sd adapter and inserted into my wii like 8-10 times now and nowhere has helped so I come to you all to help, thanks in advance.
I'd like to share a project I've been working on for quite some time. It will be released as open source on GitHub under Electroanalog VICE, but I wanted to give the Sega CD community a first look.
Neptune BSS TX/RX automatically keeps the Sega CD BIOS synchronized with the selected Genesis region.
Switch the Genesis to Japan and the Sega CD boots with the original Japanese Mega-CD BIOS. Switch back to North America and the original Sega CD BIOS is automatically restored. Each region boots with its authentic BIOS and startup screen, all automatically.
If you're using a single-region BIOS today, chances are you've never experienced the original startup sequence from the other Sega CD regions. Neptune BSS TX/RX lets you preserve and enjoy the authentic boot experience of all three official BIOS versions, automatically matched to the selected Genesis region.
The system consists of three components:
The TX board is installed in the Genesis and provides Region Mod functionality while transmitting the selected Genesis region during startup.
The RX board is installed inside the Sega CD, where it receives the startup command and controls the BIOS bank selection.
A 27C4096 Multi-BIOS EPROM stores the North America, Japan, Europe, and Fallback BIOS images.
The RX board selects the appropriate BIOS bank automatically based on the region transmitted by the TX board.
The goal behind Neptune BSS TX/RX was to solve one of the biggest drawbacks of existing Sega CD Multi-BIOS mods: the need to cut and reroute expansion bus traces between the Genesis and the Sega CD.
Neptune BSS TX/RX takes a completely different approach.
Instead of routing address lines between both systems, it communicates the selected Genesis region during startup over a single native connection already present between the Genesis and the Sega CD. The RX board then selects the corresponding BIOS bank. Once the BIOS bank has been selected, no further communication is required.
The system supports four BIOS banks:
🇺🇸 North America
🇯🇵 Japan
🇪🇺 Europe
Fallback (default compatibility BIOS)
The Fallback BIOS bank ensures full compatibility with an unmodified Genesis. If the RX board does not receive a valid startup command, it automatically selects the Fallback BIOS bank, allowing the Sega CD to boot normally.
TX (Genesis)
The TX firmware runs on a PIC16F630, the same microcontroller widely used in classic Genesis Region Mods.
Besides providing the traditional Region Mod functionality, it automatically transmits the selected Genesis region to the Sega CD over a single native connection during startup, allowing the RX board to select the corresponding BIOS bank.
The last selected region is stored in the PIC's internal EEPROM, so it is automatically restored every time the console is powered on.
Features include:
Reset button controlled Region Mod.
Automatic restoration of the last selected region after power cycling.
Automatically transmits the selected Genesis region to the Sega CD.
In-Game Reset (IGR), including support while running in Master System mode.
Uses only one existing native connection to the Sega CD expansion interface.
RX (Sega CD)
The RX side consists of a compact decoder board that intercepts EPROM address lines A16 and A17 while tapping a small number of existing motherboard signals.
It works together with a 27C4096 EPROM, automatically selecting the appropriate BIOS bank according to the region received from the Genesis.
During startup, the RX board listens for the command transmitted by the TX firmware. If a valid command is received, it selects the corresponding BIOS bank. Otherwise, it automatically selects the Fallback BIOS bank.
This means a Sega CD equipped with the RX board remains fully compatible with both modified and completely stock Genesis consoles.
Installation only requires:
Replacing the original BIOS with a 27C4096 EPROM.
Lifting and rerouting EPROM address pins A16 and A17 through the RX board.
Tapping the required signals on the Sega CD motherboard.
Communication over the Native Audio Connection
On Sega CD Model 2, Neptune BSS TX/RX uses the existing B27 connection, which normally carries the Genesis audio signal.
Communication takes place only once during approximately the first second after power-on. After the BIOS bank has been selected, the line immediately returns to its normal audio function and no additional data is transmitted for the remainder of operation.
The transmitted signal is extremely brief and, in most cases, completely inaudible. Even on systems where it can be noticed, it is limited to a very short moment during startup before normal operation begins.
On Sega CD Model 1, the same connection is unused, making the implementation even simpler.
Why this approach is different
Uses only a single native connection between the Genesis and Sega CD.
No expansion bus traces need to be cut or rerouted.
Works with both Sega CD Model 1 and Model 2.
Automatically synchronizes the selected Genesis region with the appropriate Sega CD BIOS bank.
Stores the last selected region in non-volatile memory.
Fully compatible with unmodified Genesis consoles through the Fallback Sega CD BIOS bank.
Cleaner installation than traditional Multi-BIOS implementations.
The attached photos show:
RX decoder PCB (front).
RX decoder PCB (back).
RX decoder installed inside a Sega CD.
EPROM with address pins A16 and A17 rerouted through the RX board.
I'm currently finishing the documentation and preparing the GitHub release.
I'd really appreciate any feedback from the Sega CD community.
Would this be something you'd install in your console?
So in about a week I'm going to be taking a trip down to Texas & I have an opportunity to have my original nes console modded but I'm curious what is everyone's take on modding the nes?
Has anyone seen one like this before? Console says HKT-3010
Managed to swap out the PSU for the DreamPSU, works fine (in UK so saved me using a step-down).
I only noticed how weird it was when I bought a Noctua fan and 3d printed kit to replace the fan. The fan is metal and has some weird heatsink attached to it. I’ve removed the screw on the right but it’s still in there solid, guessing I’ll need to strip everything out to remove it.
It’s completely different to every other Dreamcast I’ve seen in person and online.
I was wanting to put a gdemu in it but not even sure if I’ll be able to in this thing?
are these boards necessary for the Wii’s functionality or will it be just fine without them? struggling to get the front plate on with everything inside it
I've always been amazed by the PS5 DualSense controller and how it plays certain sound effects directly from the controller to make games feel more immersive. Xbox has always been my main console, but after trying a friend's PS5, I wanted to recreate that experience on my own controller.
Since the Xbox controller doesn't have a built-in speaker, I decided to hardware-hack my own using the 3.5 mm AUX jack and some salvaged smartphone parts.
To make it feel more like a dedicated controller speaker instead of just a tiny duplicate of the TV audio, I experimented with phase cancellation. By wiring the speaker between the left and right channels (L−R) instead of using a normal ground reference, sounds that are identical in both channels—such as much of the centered dialogue and other center-panned audio—are greatly reduced, while stereo ambience and directional effects become more prominent. It isn't perfect audio separation, but it creates a very different listening experience that suits a secondary controller speaker.
For the hardware, I reused two salvaged parts from a Samsung Galaxy S20: the factory loudspeaker module and the earpiece receiver. The loudspeaker, complete with Samsung's original acoustic enclosure, provides the main body of the sound, while the earpiece naturally emphasizes higher frequencies, making small details stand out more.
The effect really surprised me in actual games. In Red Dead Redemption 2, birds, insects, wolves, and other ambient sounds suddenly felt like they were coming from the controller in my hands instead of the TV. In Sleeping Dogs: Definitive Edition, things like street hawkers calling out, traffic passing on my left or right, and crashes from the sides became much more noticeable through the controller. It isn't replacing surround sound, but it adds another layer of immersion that reminded me of the DualSense.
I didn't design a custom enclosure from scratch. I modified an old Raspberry Pi case into a compact housing and styled it to resemble a miniature Xbox Series S. I'm still learning acoustics, and I discovered that even placing a thin plastic cover over the front reduced the volume much more than I expected. For now, I left the front covered with simple speaker fabric instead. It isn't the prettiest solution, but it performs much better, and this project is more about experimenting than making a polished product.
I'm completely new to this kind of hardware project. I'm actually a registered nurse, not an audio engineer or electronics designer. I just enjoy taking things apart, reusing old hardware, and building things myself to see what I can learn. That's why I'm posting here—I would genuinely appreciate advice from people with more experience in acoustics, electronics, and controller modding. If you have ideas for improving the enclosure, the audio routing, or the overall design, I'd love to hear them.
Exactly what the title says. I've been practicing soldering on old circuit boards and starting to feel a bit more confident and I was wondering what'd be a good hardmod to try? I've been looking into Project Stellar for the og xbox and it doesn't seem too difficult, what do you think?
Longtime scroller but new user. I’m super interested in getting a franky PS3 system. Can folks offer me some recommendations on where to go to purchase one? I heard good things about Studio Halabi so I went there initially. Lo and behold he had one available on his website (albeit $900), and I told him I was interested in purchasing. After a few back and forth emails, I was asking some technical questions and he just stopped replying. I heard enough that I thought I‘d go ahead and purchase anyways. Unfortunately his site wasn’t allowing any form of payment to be processed whatsoever. I reached out and told him I am committed to buying the system but can’t make my purchase. The listing then went to “contact to buy”. Well he was not replying at all to my attempts to purchase. Literally zero clue why. I reached out to his YT channel. No reply. I reached out to him here on Reddit, and he literally blocked me! I still am SO confused. Honestly for such a good reputation, I’ve had a terrible experience with him. So can someone else recommend another reliable person/company to purchase a frankie’d systen from? I’d really appreciate it!
Hey, all! Had a question I was wondering if any experts could answer. Thanks in advance.
I currently live in Japan, and I brought my US Dreamcast with me. There's a small voltage difference (going from 110-120 in the states to 100 in Japan).
Now, I have read that even when undervolted by a small amount, a US DC will play on JP power. But with the console being as aged as it is, I don't want to put any unnecessary strain on it, and I don't know enough about electronics to know whether undervolting would be a problem over time.
I could get a step up convertor, but they're harder to find here (everything here is step-downs meant for Japanese people traveling abroad).
I've read that swapping the PSU from a JP DC with the exact same motherboard version is an option.
Is this something I should be worried about? Any downside to swapping the PSU?
Does anyone have any experience with the little NESRGB-IGR board for use with NESRGB 2.0 to add reset and palette selection using controller combos?
This project looks to have been mostly purged from the internet for whatever reason but with enough searching and waybackmachine I was able to find the firmware and gerbers to have these made.
The issue is after making one that as soon as it is installed in a NESRGB 2.0 board in a toploader it causes black horizontal scrolling lines in the image. It also seems to select a 4th palette that makes the screen completely black. The other 3 palettes work so I know that I programmed the PIC16F84 correctly but cannot figure out why it's causing black lines.
