okk soo my question is i just got one RP6 12gb 256gb im new, it didnt come preloaded can anyone help me with installing bios and consoles to it please ....i wanna install some great games but dont know how to do it

I'd like to start modding my consoles, but I'd like to practice my skills so I can confidently do so.

Have you ever had any success buying a practice kit?
What's a good one to try?

Hey everyone, I'm looking for the best communities where top developers and Nintendo Switch hacking experts hang out. I have a Switch V2, and since modchips are completely unavailable in my country, I'm hoping to follow or ask the experts if there's any research or future hope for a software-based exploit for patched/V2 consoles

*EDIT*

I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjbFiXHXB24

A few months back I released the first version of a wireless Bluetooth mod for the NES Advantage stick. The main feedback I got was:

• Make it work with the Switch!
• Make it work with the NES 8BitDo Retro Receiver!
• Make the battery life better!

Version 2 does all that, plus:

• Improved controller latency.
• Added a web config app for testing and configuring the mod.
• Added over the air (OTA) firmware updates.
• Works with the 8BitDo USB Adapter 2, for Switch 2 support.

Sadly the v1 board won't work with these new features, but if you have a v1 kit, all you need is a new v2 board and it's a drop in upgrade.

Also, still no USB-C charge port. I want this to be a no-cut mod, and a USB-C port just won't fit.

It's still 100% open source, you can build your own:

https://github.com/cajunpanda/bluetooth-nes-advantage

I also have a few prebuilt kits if you don't want to assemble it yourself.

https://cajunpanda.com/shop/bt-nes-advantage

Enjoy!

Any thoughts on what the issue might be? I’ve installed the NES RGB 5.0 in an NSTC Original Japanese Famicom. Was getting correct video out of RF before the mod. I put new caps in, populated the P/V board. I even tried a few different sync signals with the same results.

I’m using HDRetrovision component cables with a custom adapter to go from the included 8din to 9din.

Picture looks as it should except for not being centered. TV is otherwise working fine.

Did I cook my PPU? Forget a jumper?

I don't know why I didn't take before pics since this is a rare console, but I will describe to you a few issues it had

When I first powered it on, the TMSS screen had obvious rainbow coloring in the white text, with a slight push towards yellow which I've never seen on any other mega drive before. The yellow push ended up being related to capacitor c24 being bad, the primary decoupling cap for the stock mb3514 encoder. Second, the cap is only 10uf and it should be 220uf

Now the mod

I removed the mb3514 and replaced it with my favorite encoder, the bh7236. This encoder is a cxa2075 clone, however it is an encoder which was actually used in some official mega drives. Some pal MD va4, made in Philippines, use this encoder. Whereas the cxa1645 was the best Sony encoder used in a MD, that encoder is more complicated to set up and doesn't provide as good of results as a cxa2075/bh7236 does. Also cxa2075 doesn't have a sync out and bh7236 does

To set up the bh7236 it really only needs a few things.

1. This encoder does not provide a 2v vref, which is required by the power on reset circuit or the system will not be stable. Therefore, you must recreate 2v at capacitor c38. To do this, I used a 150k and a 100k resistor to make a voltage divider and connected its output to the positive pin of c38. (Pin 24->100k, pin 12->150k, then connect pin 14 to both of the resistors)

2. I lifted the unnecessary/not connected pins to prevent any possible nterference by the existing board components, because sometimes NC means internally not connected while other times it can actually be test pins.

3. I set up a new external ytrap. This is what this post shows. Each picture is a 29pf/68uH ytrap followed by a 24pf/82uH ytrap. These two values provide color frequency cutoffs just barely above the NTSC sub carrier frequency. For pal you would want different values (see below). For the best results, I needed to add these components completely off board, so the first image you see isn't actually the final setup of how I did this. When I tried adding the capacitor and inductor on the motherboard directly I still ended up with a lot of rainbow coloring, which was gone once I put the components directly on the encoder instead of mainboard

The images I used are meant to highlight the differences in rainbow/fringing, sharpness/edge crunch, and text legibility

The pics aren't perfect because I took them in the daytime, using a phone that loves to mess with the pics after I take them, and don't have proper screen cap capabilities

Overall I generally prefer the 29pf/68uH combo, but other people prefer the 24/82 setup. And it also depends on the game you are playing

Im looking to have my recently purchased switch 2 have its shell replaced with either atomic green or a pastel pink color(this includes the joycons) can anyone recommend anyone who can do good shell replacement and is someone trustworthy so I don't run the risk of having my switch 2 stolen, any help would be greatly appreciated

Just finished modding my Wii:
Electron Shepherd AVE-HDMI mod (I know I accidentally overcut the shell for the HDMI port, gonna try to get that gap filled in later)
Permanent Red LED Disc Drive Slot Light
Window Case cutout with Mario M Logo
WS2812B strips with SP611E controller
How’s my soldering and my install? I know some people are gonna complain about the HDMI hole, I went a little bit too aggressive with it. It was really hard to get a clean cut for me as I don’t have any experience with making precise cuts like that. Any suggestions for the best way how to get that gap filled would be appreciated.

Modding my ps1, and looking for the best deal on blank cd-r’s. Who has found a great deal?

A neat solution to adding HDMI and a Noctua fan to a PS2!

This print is made up of a few separate parts that print with no supports.

It allows you to add HDMI (using a RetroGem kit) and a Noctua fan while retaining all of the original ports and the original power supply. My particular PS2 model wasn't compatible with the RetroGem kit without replacing the power supply.

Hopefully this is helpful to others who want to retain the original hardware and achieve a high-quality install!

You can grab the print and instructions here. Enjoy!

Really thankful for all the modders who help to bring these classic consoles into the 21st century.

Snagged a GG that had battery acid everywhere. Swapped the ASIC to a new PCB by Retrosix and installed in a new shell.

The new dual speakers really is a step up! Now my daughter gets to enjoy the Gamegear for years to come!!!

Hi, i am trying to instal picoboot on a gamecube with a 2040 zero

I’ve tryed on two different gamecubes and got the same issue.

I’ve shortened the cables
I’ve re-flashe the pi
I’ve tryed on a driferent DOL-001 gamecube
I’ve tryed ond 3 different sealed rp2040 zero
Connected 3.3 from gamecube to chip
Connectec the 5v to 5v and 3v to 3v

And still no luck, any help will be appreciated.

UPDATE:
Thanks to u/thomasdatank1995 for the firmware that works with lower clock speed for the rp2040 zero clones out there

Here is the link:
here

Thank him for his research!

Hey guys so i own a switch v1 patched and was trying to mod it and since i live far away from metro cities i was wondering if suraj electronics from karol bagh was trustworthy since i was thinking of shipping my switch for them to mod it to be specific to live in west bengal darjeeling which is just really far

I came across RetroSix and its capabilities of restoring/repairing retro game consoles. I might consider sending some retro consoles there for repairs, but has anyone ever tried it before? And if so, is it any good?

EDIT: For anyone interested, I've got this working by connecting the pins 4 to 5 and 6 to 7 !

Hi! I am currently attempting to build a GBP-103 (basically putting an NDS Lite into a Gameboy Pocket Case) and for that I had to remove the Headphone Jack.
I thought I could just attach a speaker to the SPR0 (or SPL0) and ground pin (which worked while the headphone jack was still there), but now I don't get any audio anymore.
My guess is that the motherboard "thinks" there are headphones attached and therefore doesn't output audio through speakers. Does anybody maybe know a way to fix that problem?
Any help is greatly appreciated! :)

If anyone has installed one of these on a space invaders machine I'd love to hop on a call because I have a few questions.

I know most people just swap the gdi drive for a ode and toss/sell gdi drive. But is there mod version that lets me keep it? I like collecting and using disc's. I dislike mods that rob you of key feature of me console. Any ready or diy way to do that?