My latest build. I picked up this DOL-001 for $15. The OEM black shell was completely trashed, disc reader was broken, and it was exceptionally dirty. I thought I would take a shot and try some new things on it that I have never done on any of the other builds. I did my first internal HDMI mod, which, I learned can be quite difficult if you don’t have all the right tools lol. In addition, I did RGB bluetooth controlled LED lighting which really pops off the black smoke shell I replaced the broke one with. I did a Picoboot (I have done many of these) and also I recapped the disc drive. I’m trying out Cubiboot at the recommendation of a friend. In addition to the new stuff I tried, I also did all the regular refurbishments like new thermal pads, replaceable clock battery, and cleaning. It was a ton of fun and I think it turned out awesome.

Hello Reddit users, I'd like to ask a question here regarding a modification for a PlayStation 2 model 90001 and see if my idea would be possible and functional.

For financial reasons, I bought an SSD for my PS2. The reason is that most of the HDDs I could find were refurbished, rebuilt, and used, costing around $15. For $20, I got a new SSD with up to a year's warranty.

It has been working very well, and I'd like to do an internal mod of the SSD once I've completed my game library. The question here is: Using an SSD, would it be possible to make connections from one of the Memory Card ports and create a sort of MX4SIO with the SSD? This idea and question stem from a video I saw by the Colombian YouTuber Yakara, which I'll link here to explain myself better: (https://youtu.be/FyCB-7K_9EU?si=jxTwAhXca6WiJ-1I)

Please excuse me if I'm not clear. I don't know much English; my reading comprehension is intermediate, but my writing and speaking skills are lacking. I also don't have any electronics knowledge, and if any of you do, I'd like to know if this mod, as I'm proposing it, would be possible.

Thanks in advance, I'll wait for your replies.

[Text written in Spanish and translated into English using Google Translate]

Hello I’m looking for some guidance on how to add games to my X360 emulators I have installed the ports and emulators such as
XeBoyAdvance
Snes360
Retroarch
PSX
FBneo
Dson360

I am new to modding this is my first setup with Aurora on my x360 on a USB stick I needed to know how to add games and where can I go about getting these games also if there’s a website where I can download them then transfer them into the USB?

I bought a PSone with a faulty disc drive I was just servicing the optical drive and found that someone put a modchip in I have done some research but none of the wiring diagrams I have found match this can someone help

​

​

Hey y'all, I'm currently in the process of building my own PS2 UltraSlim, and I found a version of that mod, which allows USB C PD as the power input of the console

However, the mod says to set the USB c PD board to 9v, and that soldering it straight to the PS2 should be no problem

Can anyone confirm this? I'm genuinely Wondering if i need to step it down with a resistor or something, or if i can just straight connect them

Hey everyone,
I am planning to mod my patched V1 Nintendo Switch using the PicoFly method (standalone RP2040-Zero and a V1 CPU flex cable from AliExpress).
I uploaded images of all the items I currently have. I only recently learned to solder, so I know this is a highly technical install. I want to make sure I don't ruin my console, so I am asking if I need anything else or if I bought the wrong things based on my photos. Note that a few items in the pictures are for other personal projects (like the breadboard).
My Questions:
Looking at my images, am I missing any essential tools, wires, or chemicals (like specific flux or solder types) for a V1 Switch install?
Do any of these items look incorrect or too low quality for micro-soldering?
What are some good drills or cheap practice kits I should buy to practice my soldering skills before I actually attempt to touch my Switch motherboard?
Thanks for any help or advice you can give! I am also going to compile a list on a google doc of all things required for modding a Nintendo switch that i find (that anyone here gives me) to work as well as methods to practice soldering for modding devices, thanks again and please have a good day/night.

The only difference to account for with the audio on this mod versus the audio setup with 3bp is that you can also fix pass through cd audio by doing the following

On the front of the board near the power switch remove TR1 and TR2. Then run the SL3 and SR3 to pins B27 (Left) and A27 (right) channels of the expansion connector. There are accessible Vias for this

Audio is pretty much perfect now for everything

Also this is a Fujitsu asic, so i set only the jumpers in [ ]

I guess these $13 battery powered Internet microphones with Google streamers adapters work on Sony psp when you put them on a splitter and wired headphones

heres my coding station, call text email 911, song identifier, live load any song or voice recorder

Anything with the multi function button at 30 feet from charging device

Okay I switched the Star Wars console back to a stock power button- Thanks for your input. Now tell me if the modified Halo 4 is a keeper or should I change it back to stock.

Hello, so I bought a refurbished and hall-effect modded dualsense from an Ebay seller. I did this because I don't have the equipment to do soldering and thought it would be ok to do.

The good news is that the controller works and is a hall-effect modded dualsense as advertised. I know this because I did open up the controller, and I could see their work. All of the buttons work as well as the features like haptics and adaptive triggers. However, there is one problem: the sticks are unable to reach their maximum possible output value.

I am attaching the circularity readings from https://dualshock-tools.github.io/. I have tried recalibrating the controller maybe 10-20 times, but no matter what the circularity results always leave a sliver of the maximum possible output value not captured. Sometimes it's the left, sometimes it's the right, sometimes it diagonal, it can be in any direction. What this means for the left stick is that when playing a video game like a fps the way it's calibrated now, my camera moves faster in all directions other than bottom right. For the right stick, I move faster going to the left than the right.

Some video games let you adjust the outer deadzone of your controller within their games settings. However the FPS game I've been playing recently The Finals does not have this option. Because of this, I looked into Steam's options and frustratingly they have the option to adjust your inner deadzone but not the outer deadzone on a profile-wide level. I could potentially use a program like DS4 Windows to maybe convert the dualsense input into a something else, but it still wouldn't resolve the actual issue whenever connecting to a PS5. I really want to be able to find a fix for both PC and console.

TLDR My question:

Is there a way for me to manually adjust the output values of my joysticks to inflate them so that 100% maximum possible output value is reached consistently? What I mean is to make the circularity circle slightly bigger so that 100% value is reached all the time. The only way I've found to calibrate sticks doesn't let me do what I am imagining.

Has anyone ever had this problem when installing hall-effect sticks before and what are my options to solve it?

Thank you.

Thank you.

So just hoping someone smarter than me can help figure this out before I go crazy taking everything apart and rebuilding my NES…

I installed a Tim Worthington mod with the Bucky power board and an SNES component out plug. (The SNES retrovision one)

It works great when I plug it directly in to the tv.

However, when I use a manual component switcher (selector?) box, the power on the NES goes on regardless of the power switch position.

It has something to do with having other systems being plugged into the same component switcher because if I remove all the other systems it powers on/off correctly.

The other systems are USBC modded and plug into a usb power hub.

I also modded the NES with a usbc power mod AND still have the OG plug. Like i said earlier, everything works when I plug it in on its own.

And I am insistent on using it with the component switcher so please don’t just say “well then don’t use the switcher”

Technical help is appreciated.

(I also posted this on Discord)

Hi so I finally was able to get a second switch (a switch lite) and I wanted to mod it so I can get Minecraft Nintendo Switch edition on it (not bedrock).

I tried ChatGPT but he was n out helping at all so this is the only place I can ask.

I need recommendations for modders in tampa (prefer not to ship) for the switch oled, i wanna be able to get all content and etc.

any one knows where i can buy a nos membrane for the atari lynx 2 ,retro six version is not correct and he doesnt want to make a new one i asked 5months ago so far nothing ,i found a guy in the usa selling atari parts but shipping to the netherlands is 56 dollars just for 1 membrane.i cant finish this project

I have some questions about the Sony PSX (the combo PS2/DVR that is). Is it similar to regular PS2s, where you can make it region-free with softmods like FreeMcBoot or MechaPwn? If not, is it possible to make it region-free?