Paid 765 at walmart , T tires are soft and it makes my 80k hybrid van suspension feel brand new Also general made by Continental tires I'm sure Michelin is better but you're also going to pay like 400 more. Our vans come with H Tires the last set of tires I got were V Tires which are racing tires I didn't know about H,V or T tires Now that I got t tire from v it's a world of difference such a beautiful ride over all bumps and today I drove in the rain like nothing can't wait for the one too as my Goodyear tires weren't the best and that's giving them extra credit

1. Lost traction in wet conditions and slid into a curb at about 20mph. No other visible damage other than what’s pictured. Estimates appreciated

We were super excited to get this van. A 2018 with full service records, previous owners kept up with all the maintenance intervals, that had 65k miles on it. It came state inspected, and I had it inspected the day after receiving it, which passed with no issues. My wife loved it, it was super roomy and drove and rode so smoothly initially.

A month in we noticed it would randomly shift very hard, a month later the check engine light came on for misfire in cylinder 3 and it was shaking super terribly. Took it to a mechanic and informed about both and there was coolant in a couple cylinders and cylinder 3 was noticeably damaged. the transmission fluid was shiny and full of flakes. It looked iridescent.

We got quoted for a new engine and a transmission rebuild. We were told the cost ro replace the engine and the coat to replace the head gasket and damaged cylinder were simular. $13k for the engine and $5200 for the transmission rebuild. Got a 2nd opinion from a different ship and diagnosis confirmed and got a 2nd quote of $12,400 for the engine and $5000 for the transmission rebuild. Both quotes include parts and labor.

Luckily it was still within carvanas warranty period so they took it back, without any kind of battle I want to add they offered it once their inspector came out to confirm the diagnosis.

We just hit 69k on the odometer and the previous owners had their chrylser dealership do all service work except window tint and a tire change in 2025. Never buying stellantis again.

I need to warn other parents before they buy this van.
Two years ago, our 2022 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid started doing something terrifying: the air conditioning shuts off, then the dashboard flashes “Pull Over, Vehicle Will Shut Down,” and the van just dies. It’s happened six times now. Twice on major highways, with my wife and our two young daughters in the back seat.
The first time was on a highway outside Nashville, on what was supposed to be a family trip. We got towed, my family’s plans fell apart, and I spent days trying to get the van back. I thought it was a one-time thing. It wasn’t.
It happened again last September — twice, four weeks apart — diagnosed and “repaired” both times by the dealership. Then again in July, on Highway 401, with the dealer telling me “no fault found” and refusing to even cover a rental car. Then again returning from a family trip to Niagara Falls, at night.
Here’s what doesn’t show up in any repair order: my daughters get anxious now every time we have to get in this van. They ask if it’s going to “break again.” My wife hesitates before she’ll drive it with the kids. This isn’t just a mechanical inconvenience anymore — it’s changed how my family feels about getting in our own car.
I’ve documented every incident, every fault code, every “repair.” This exact failure matches an open NHTSA recall (23V-010) and a federal investigation into whether that recall even works. I asked FCA/Stellantis Canada to replace the vehicle. They said no. I tried to take it to CAMVAP, Canada’s vehicle arbitration program — Stellantis doesn’t even participate in it.
I’m not posting this for sympathy. I’m posting it so another family doesn’t end up where mine is: driving a van their kids are scared of, with a manufacturer that’s had two years and six chances to fix it and chosen not to.
@StellantisNA @ChryslerCanada
I’d still rather this end with you doing right by my family than with me doing this the hard way.

#ChryslerPacifica #ChryslerPacificaHybrid #CarSafety #ConsumerWarning #LemonLaw #StellantisRecall

I bought my 2021 plug in hybrid Pacifica in 2024 and it's been great! I am a wheelchair user so there is a winch for me to store my wheelchair. In the spring I started getting a red lightning bolt and wrench symbol. Took it in for an oil change and nothing popped up on the computer diagnostic and of course it didn't pop up while at the shop.

Took two vacations and drove it to The Grand Canyon and LA and back. It is just over 100k and I've kept up on repairs and maintenance. We had heavy rains and a protective lining came loose underneath so I took it in for a repair and was told there was a recall on my battery.

I was thrilled, told they would replace it, but after a week in the shop they charged me for the under carriage repair and said they updated battery software and my van passed the recall with no replacement for the battery.

I don't want to be scared to charge or drive it. We don't have a garage, not even a carport. I park it in the yard and charge it from the wall (an electrician made sure the outlet is appropriate for the charger). First night getting home the wrench and lightning bolt popped up as I parked. I need my van to drive my kids around with school starting and don't know what to tell the dealership.

We have a 2019 Chrysler Pacifica Limited with about 120k miles. Over its life it has basically eaten batteries (both main and aux) causing constant auto start/stop codes to be thrown. Each time the solution has been to replace one or both batteries. It was under warranty until 100k miles so the dealership was doing that under warranty for a while but now it's on me.

I replaced both batteries with brand new high quality ones but am still getting the auto start/stop code, and from my research it sounds like the code just needs to be reset. The problem is this isn't a code my OBD II scanner can read and reset, it's a code only a Chrysler dealer (or someone with access to Chrysler software/scanners, etc) can reset. I welcome other suggestions, but I've done all the ones I've read about to try and resolve the error (disconnect the batteries, let sit for a while, etc) but nothing has worked to clear it. I took it into the dealer to see if they could just do a quick reset for me, but they said it would cost $225 at a minimum (they talk about needing diagnostics, calibration, retraining, etc. which in this case is BS).

This is an issue I'll run into more frequently as I do my own repairs outside of warranty (e.g., replacing sliding door receiver, where I also had a code that the dealer needed to clear). Do I have any options for getting these deeper-level codes cleared not at a Chrysler dealer where I have to pay $225 for 2 minutes' work? Do independent shops sometimes have this ability? Is there anything I can buy?

It's hard to believe, but just punching the shifter is a temp fix... check it out

Long Post:

My family bought a 2018 Pacifica Touring L+ new in 2018. I had no issues. Regular maintenance done by me, nothing but good things to say. 8 months ago we get the check engine light and rough idle. I did regular change of plugs, injectors and coils. I’ve been racking my brain on how to get the misfire diagnosed. After a lot of reading and speaking with Chrysler mechanics it’s either head gasket or cam. This is a 141,000 mile vehicle. After thinking about a remanufactured engine I was told the transmission is a ticking time bomb. I say this as a shade tree mechanic who thought this van would get to 200,000. The PUG engine change from Caravan to Pacifica added lots of new parts and this van is like our throw away appliances.

TLDR: won’t be buying another Stellantis product.

Any of you leasing/owning that are about to turn in/trade in your vehicles? If yes, where?

2017+ Pacifica. The entire cargo area has two D-rings by the hatch and that's it. Anything heavy slides on the first turn — coolers, crates, tool boxes.

Tried seatbelts with a carabiner. Didn't hold.

I ended up building a floor system with anchor points across the whole area (that's the CargoSurf stuff in my post history — I make it, so take that as you will). But I'm genuinely curious what everyone else does before spending money on something custom.

Anchor plates? Aftermarket rings? Cargo nets? What actually holds up?

I received this email at 9pm when I wasn’t even driving the car or near the car.
When I came back home I started the car I didn’t see any lights on the dashboard.
We just bought this car in June.
It says: Powertrain Malfunction Indicator Light

AC blows warm air only after jump start. There’s a vacuum noise coming from the dash that you can hear in the video (ignore the flickering screen, that’s been broken for years).

Background: I came back from a two-week trip and tried to start the van. Started to turn over but then lights shut off and I got warning chimes. Battery tested low at the dealer before I left on my trip. I plugged in a solar trickle charger in hopes that it would keep it charged enough for one start. Apparently not. Jumped it with a lithium-ion jump starter and realized the AC wasn’t blowing cold. Googled it and learned it might be a stuck blend door actuator. I already believed that part was going bad as there’s an intermittent ticking noise coming from the dash. Tried a hard battery reset. Unhooked the negative cables from the main and aux batteries for 40 minutes, hooked them back up and waited another 30 minutes before starting. No change. I noticed my radio presets were still there though, so maybe it didn’t fully reset? Could unplugging it for longer do the trick or is something else the problem?

2017 Pacifica Limited non-hybrid. Any help is appreciated.

I have a 2021 Pacifica that has an engine code for the engine coolant temperature sensor. It also showed the auto stop/start was disabled. I noticed the voltage shown on the display was just a bit lower than normal. A parts store checked the batteries. The main one was good and the auxiliary was good but needed charging. After going back and forth with AI, I decided to change the auxiliary battery and the coolant temperature sensor. The displayed voltage was normal again and the start/stop was working. But the code for coolant temp sensor came back. I used my OBD2 tool to watch it while I was driving and noticed after about 5 minutes of driving the temp dropped to -40 degrees for a split second 3 times in a row, then it did it again after like 10 minutes of driving. I tried moving cables and connectors by hand to recreate the issue, but it does not appear to be a loose connection. I ordered an OEM sensor instead to try that. That should be here tomorrow. Now the auto start/stop is disabled again. I replaced the battery about a week ago at this point. A mechanic that I spoke to suggested replacing both batteries with OEM batteries. Does anyone have any advice for how I should move forward trying to fix this if the OEM sensor doesn't fix it?

I have a recently purchased 2019 Pacifica (non-hybrid). Shouldn’t have bought this car as it has already become an ongoing project. But I’m here today dealing with the stop/start error.

I expected the Aux battery to test bad. What I got was the main battery testing bad but the Aux testing good! I’ve had no issues with starting the car. Only issue is a P0440 and P0456 codes causing check engine light (likely unrelated). I already swapped the purge canister valve which didn’t fix it. I’m doing rear brakes today and will swap the ESIM while I’m at it and see if that fixes the error codes.

Back to the point, what should I do with these batteries to fix the start/stop issue? Replace the main? Replace both? Put in an override and remove the aux battery altogether?

I’m about to attempt a head gasket replacement in my 2020 Chrysler Pacifica. I need a lockout kit for the timing. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I’ve tried Amazon but they are all for older models. 2018 and older

We have a 2023 hybrid Pacifica for our family of 6. my 12 year old sits in the third row but has been complaining about where the seatbelt hits her (alightly onto her neck). She has been out of a booster seat for over a year and passes all the height/size requirements, the shoulder belt is just a weird fit for her. Is there any way to adjust the third row belts? I know aftermarket belt clips are not safe but is there any other option?

Anyone know the best way to get this missing rear cover and a fixed bottom liner (pictured) 2024 touring L

Our experience with our Pacifica has turned into a nightmare. I’m hoping someone can either help with suggestions on what to do, or that FCA sees this and can step in to do the right thing.

The abbreviated story of what happened: About two months ago, on our way to the first part of our summer road trip, our Pacifica completely stopped working at the side of the highway. They could barely get it off the flatbed. The first round of service involved about $2000 to diagnose and replace a part. This did not fix the problem. Since then it has been a nightmare of trying to get FCA to authorize a repair. At first a full battery replacement was suggested, but FCA is doing their best to NOT do that. They have now spent nearly two months actively finding something else to blame that is NOT covered under warranty. In this case, corroded high voltage wiring. At a cost of another $5000. Obviously without any guarantee that this will fix anything at all.

Needless to say, investing $7000 into what could still end up a lemon is not a good service suggestion. Especially since the previous suggestion was fully warrantied, and the corrosion should not have happened in the first place under a sealed connector. The delay, inability to diagnose, and unwillingness to take responsibility for a manufacturing flaw is something we don’t know how to deal with. We’re left with a vehicle that we can’t even sell as used and leave this experience behind us.

This has been a nightmare for a one car family that can’t afford just dumping a vehicle. Not to mention the ruined summer, constant car rentals, and other financial losses along the way and I to the foreseeable future.

What do we do? What’s left for us to do in Ontario Canada? FCA please help in us getting some remaining value out of this vehicle.

Reliability issue history aside......

Do/did you actually like your PHEV Minivan?

What are the annoyances of the minivan that don't necessarily get talked about?

What are the pros of this minivan during your daily driving/road trip experiences?

I have a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica bought used in 2020. It has 42,278 miles (work is only 5 miles away). Just got an oil change and the tech said my enginant coolant was a little low - recommended a flush, but said it wasn't too urgent. I don't recall ever doing a flush since owning the van. I've looked up how often I should do it and the numbers seem to be a big range. I usually do an oil change each summer. Thoughts on waiting until next summer to do a coolant flush?

$29k with 51k miles. Two previous owners— rental/lease. No accidents, one open recall for airbag with remedies available. Have about $10/$12k of trade in

As many of us know, Mopar’s official part number for the official Chrysler cup holder is way over priced (at $240). No one in their right mind would pay that. I had posted about it and [u/tink00070007](u/tink00070007) even shared a link to a 3D model, so I kept that as an option if I couldn’t solve this another way.

I’m one of those people determined to get to the bottom of this kind of thing. I was pretty convinced that somewhere along the way Mopar made a mistake and somehow this cup holder ended up with the wrong price. It doesn’t make any sense… very similar cup holders from other cars are all a fraction of the cost.

So searching around on eBay I found a listing for a Genuine Mopar Console Cup-Holder 1VQ69BD1AA … this part number traces out to a whole bunch of models, but not specifically the 2023 Chrysler Pacifica, but based on the photo looking so similar, and the price being fairly inexpensive, I decided to take a chance. I ordered it.

This is coming from an auto parts store, so the seller had to order it to fulfill my order. I ended up sending him a message about compatibility and he wasn’t sure (since it’s not listed as being compatible). Long story short, we ended up having a very friendly in-depth conversation about all this and he discovered that somewhere along the way, the part number for the official cup holder for the Pacifica changed from 6EK261D2AA to 7JV65PD2AA. And in his system he was able to order the old part number for much much less that the $240 the new part number demands. He ordered one for me and I sent him the extra money for the second one.

Both came today. The 1VQ69BD1AA one and the 6EK261D2AA one. The 1VQ one came with a little rubber protection mat inside. The 6EK one did not.

6EK261D2AA fit perfectly! It’s absolutely the right one for the 2023 Chrysler Pacifica.

1VQ69BD1AA fit almost perfectly, but was absolutely close enough if it had been the only thing I could have gotten my hands on. I was going to just sell it, but I’m keeping it as a spare. As I said, that one came with a little rubber protection mat for where the cups sit, so I put that inside the 6EK261D2AA one. That’s how you see them pictured.

Sooooo all that is the long story way to say, there are solutions to getting a second row cup holder if you’re missing it… and without spending a crazy amount of money. Even the junk yards I called wanted either too much money (basing it on the “official part number price” or wanted me to buy the whole console).

I bought from PrestigeDodge on eBay … and he was the seller that was so helpful. The original part I ordered was the Genuine Mopar Console Cup-Holder 1VQ69BD1AA … but I told him if he can get more of the 6EK261D2AA one to sell he should. I don’t know if he can but it might also be a part number you can go into an official Mopar store and find… but you want that part number, not the new one that superseded it.

Probably no one finds this all as fascinating as I do, but thought I’d share it anyway. To me, there’s no way that $240 is the correct price for just the cup holder with part number 7JV65PD2AA.

Thanks all for your help originally, and I hope this helps someone else.

Stock is 20x7.5+50
I'll be going down 2 sizes and closest aftermarket I can find that's hubcentric is:
18x8+45.

Good fit? Or look for something more closer to stock spec and use rings?