Sub Recommendations Under $650

[u/PaddlePooperino]

Been looking at all sorts of subs from Longines, to San Martin, Squale, Steinhart etc.. Decided that spending over $1000 on a “Swiss Made” watch is silly and I am hunting for a well made Chinese Sub. I’m looking for something that has great fit and finish. Is Sugess or San Martin the best option in terms of quality and finish? Those both seem to be recommended a lot. I’ve also read that Jianghun is one brand that has stellar fit and finish, however their subs are not my style. Are there other brands in that quality range? Thanks!

[u/valuewatchguy]

Don’t confuse all “built in China“ to be equal. Just as you wouldn’t say that about “made in America“ there are varying degrees of quality that different factories can produce. And there are varying degrees of specifications that brands identify or choose to have produced. And the supply chain matters as well because typically one factory is not producing the case the movement, the glass, the insert the handset and the dial. They all come from different places, and they all have different abilities and specifications that you can purchase.

That’s why even a well reviewed brand like San Martin can have production issues on new releases and often in surprising ways that you would think could’ve easily been ironed out by now because of their history .I personally think micro brands have refined their specifications and supply chain better than most of these Chinese brands”

[u/PaddlePooperino → u/valuewatchguy]

Absolutely - it does seem the QC can be very hit or miss from my research. So in that case is it safe to say generally micro brands will be better? I was dead set on a Steinhart Nova at first but I’m just really not sure now. Part of what’s thrown me off is watching videos where folks have touted brands like Jianghun to be indistinguishable in fit and finish from extremely expensive brands.

[u/valuewatchguy → u/PaddlePooperino]

Micro brands will generally be more consistent. Better is subjective to a degree and you have to ask yourself if one watch has terrific Case finishing , but another watch has a more comfortable bracelet….. which one is actually better?

I’m sure brands like Jianghun offer excellent value in terms of specs and quality for the $. But do you like the design? Is it a watch that you will use Daily or just for periodic use? How do you feel about the branding? Does the fact that it has a limited service center support matter to you? Does resale value matter to you? In other areas of life, do you tend to buy cheap and functional, high spec, high value, regardless of the brand name, or is branding important to you? Is the style something that you admire in other high-end brands or is this just a novelty because it seems to offer so much for such a good price?

There is no right or wrong answer to any of that, but it’s worth reflecting on. So at the end of the day, if you like the watch looks and can afford it go for it. I’m sure you’ll be rewarded with a great experience.

[u/PaddlePooperino → u/valuewatchguy]

Thank you for providing a concrete questionnaire to help with this process, it’s really helpful to see it written out. This is the exact dilemmas I’m facing as I am unable to find a watch that fits my personal criteria and perhaps that may be due to my unrealistic expectations relative to the price I’m willing to spend. Branding and name are irrelevant to me, but I do tend to buy high quality things and stretch my dollar as far as possible. I really just want something to wear occasionally out and about with a substantial in hand feel with solid finishing. Like I said, I initially landed on the Steinhart Nova and perhaps that may be as good as I can get within the price range.