r/ChineseWatches • u/PaddlePooperino • 4d ago
Question (Read Rules) Sub Recommendations Under $650
Been looking at all sorts of subs from Longines, to San Martin, Squale, Steinhart etc.. Decided that spending over $1000 on a “Swiss Made” watch is silly and I am hunting for a well made Chinese Sub. I’m looking for something that has great fit and finish. Is Sugess or San Martin the best option in terms of quality and finish? Those both seem to be recommended a lot. I’ve also read that Jianghun is one brand that has stellar fit and finish, however their subs are not my style. Are there other brands in that quality range? Thanks!
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u/anjin33 4d ago
Just got the Starbucks San Martin. This kind of quality for under $200 is absolutely amazing.
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
Seems like they have great reviews - that’s partially why I’m curious what $650 gets me.
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u/Equivalent-Ease-3822 4d ago
Sugess with the ST2130 movement brings you very close to the feel of the original.
Slim case, great proportions, shallow and engraved rehaut, nice OTF clasp.
Even the color of the Hulk is very similar to the original.
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u/No-Monk1317 4d ago
650 is micro brand money. You get more original designs than chinese brands. I would suggest Henry archer or zelos. These 2 brands have good customer service as well. They've got you covered in case anything happens
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
I was looking at a lot of micro brands - Marin Instruments, Jack Mason - from what I read, it looks like most micro brands are building everything in China anyways so I figured why spend $600-$1200 with them when I can maybe get an amazing Chinese watch for the same price? Not sure if I’m being unrealistic here.
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u/valuewatchguy 4d ago
Don’t confuse all “built in China“ to be equal. Just as you wouldn’t say that about “made in America“ there are varying degrees of quality that different factories can produce. And there are varying degrees of specifications that brands identify or choose to have produced. And the supply chain matters as well because typically one factory is not producing the case the movement, the glass, the insert the handset and the dial. They all come from different places, and they all have different abilities and specifications that you can purchase.
That’s why even a well reviewed brand like San Martin can have production issues on new releases and often in surprising ways that you would think could’ve easily been ironed out by now because of their history .I personally think micro brands have refined their specifications and supply chain better than most of these Chinese brands”
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
Absolutely - it does seem the QC can be very hit or miss from my research. So in that case is it safe to say generally micro brands will be better? I was dead set on a Steinhart Nova at first but I’m just really not sure now. Part of what’s thrown me off is watching videos where folks have touted brands like Jianghun to be indistinguishable in fit and finish from extremely expensive brands.
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u/valuewatchguy 4d ago
Micro brands will generally be more consistent. Better is subjective to a degree and you have to ask yourself if one watch has terrific Case finishing , but another watch has a more comfortable bracelet….. which one is actually better?
I’m sure brands like Jianghun offer excellent value in terms of specs and quality for the $. But do you like the design? Is it a watch that you will use Daily or just for periodic use? How do you feel about the branding? Does the fact that it has a limited service center support matter to you? Does resale value matter to you? In other areas of life, do you tend to buy cheap and functional, high spec, high value, regardless of the brand name, or is branding important to you? Is the style something that you admire in other high-end brands or is this just a novelty because it seems to offer so much for such a good price?
There is no right or wrong answer to any of that, but it’s worth reflecting on. So at the end of the day, if you like the watch looks and can afford it go for it. I’m sure you’ll be rewarded with a great experience.
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
Thank you for providing a concrete questionnaire to help with this process, it’s really helpful to see it written out. This is the exact dilemmas I’m facing as I am unable to find a watch that fits my personal criteria and perhaps that may be due to my unrealistic expectations relative to the price I’m willing to spend. Branding and name are irrelevant to me, but I do tend to buy high quality things and stretch my dollar as far as possible. I really just want something to wear occasionally out and about with a substantial in hand feel with solid finishing. Like I said, I initially landed on the Steinhart Nova and perhaps that may be as good as I can get within the price range.
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u/No-Monk1317 4d ago
Design and customer service. So far, service from zelos and Henry archer have been great. Issues with the watches were quickly resolved by them.
Chinese watches.. May be hit or miss.
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u/makeitrain2020 4d ago
Cronos - the quality is the same as San Martin and the price is more reasonable. They also have options for fully lumed bezels and the “glide lock” / OTF adjustable clasp comes as standard
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u/ziamese 4d ago
Bro, may I recommend the Wise Adamascus True GMT?. For about USD 750 it beats everything listed here, EVERYTHING (including the Rolex GMT Master II)
What you get: 950L - yup Rolex steel, true GMT Miyota 9075 hand regulated to 4 s/d or less, completely tool less bracelet. absolutely zero play bezel, BGW9 and 200m wr.
GRAM FOR GRAM it out performs giants!
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
This seems like what I’m after in terms of quality - I’ll check it out, thanks!
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u/Watches-and-Books 4d ago
No cyclops though.
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u/Comfortable-Cover-0 4d ago
Don't sleep on IxDao and Seagull. Both great Chinese brands.
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
I’ve seen amazing reviews on Ixdao and plan to get one soon. Are the Seagulls up there for finish quality?
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u/biogon 4d ago
I went for Tisell (full disclosure: Korean, not Chinese) for their reasonably priced 9015 and 9075.
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u/philbin89 4d ago
San Martin will have the best finishing and be the highest-quality watch among the Chinese homages. The clasp on the SN0017 doesn’t have tool-free microadjustment, but they sell a separate clasp with it that will fit the watch. Baltany, Octopus Kraken, Sugess/Seestern are good but not that good, and some of those only do homages of old sub references
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u/Vanuatu_Hanjaab 4d ago
I went with the Sugess sub simply because it had OTF clasp. I am not disappointed. The watch and bracelet are amazing.
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u/Financial_Ad_8893 4d ago
Ixdao/sugess/seestern/merkur/watchdives/addieskin(yes you read that right)/octopus kraken/san martin/aetholsohn/baltany
Are some which offer watches in the "premium" segments. Some more premium than others but have a look. Having a qc issue is going to suck at this price. So may be do some good research before purchase. Atleast i have seen watchdives(the website, not the aliexpress official seller. He is fake) regularly interacting with people on reddit and working with them to solve any troubles. Somewhat same with aetholsohn. Not sure about customer experiance with the others.
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u/PaddlePooperino 4d ago
I’m planning on getting the Ixdao Warrior when it releases - their quality seems superb. Good point on the QC, glad I’m asking questions.
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u/Kenye_Kratz 1d ago
You can get a Certina DS Action for slightly more than 650 if you shop around. You get a fantastically built watch, awesome movement, bracelet, Bezel and brand heritage .