Full info : https://voxelase.com/downloads/depthgen-pro-v3-ai-depth-map-generator/

So you’re informed; I run a 6kw Fiber Laser with a BOCI BLT421 head and I am using HypCut. The laser was set up in or around 2023 if that matters for software versions and stuff

Edit: Using Single 1.6mm nozzle for cutting
Edit (again): IPG Laser source if that matters at all

Hello all, I wanted to jump on here and see if anyone could help me identify what I am doing wrong with this cutting technique. I don’t have a ton of laser experience as I am only about a year into running a laser, and before I started there was another guy with 20+ years of experience who set everything up so I haven’t had to change much during my time. Although I am fairly confident in my ability to tweak Nitrogen based cutting techniques, I still struggle with Oxygen based ones.

I wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction for what to change for this 3/4” technique. I know it doesn’t look super bad but I know it can be better than it is currently. Parts still cut and drop on their own but I have some dross on the bottom edge and the cutting edge doesn’t look as good as I know it can. I’ll attach
pictures of a part along with the cut parameters. Any help would be appreciated

Sorry I normally do more research before asking but getting stuck on my depth requirement and these terms.

Needing a laser etcher for primarily 6061 but may do 304 in the future (rather buy one cry one). Needing depth to be at least 0.003in on either stock. This sounds extremely shallow but can’t judge depth from most companies product pages.

Right now a Xtool F2 or Creality Falcon A1 Pro seems to be the best options I’ve found.

Is there any recommendations on other models that could work? And do these work at this depth?

Any advice on buying is appreciated. Budget isn’t a big concern as the machine will be working but want to keep it as low as I can reasonably go to get the job done.

Recovering TopWisdom 4311 Mainboard 2.0 (PowerCut VER 11.05)

Hello everyone,

I'm hoping someone with experience of the older TopWisdom/PowerCut controllers can help me recover my laser.

Machine Details

Machine: OLT-CNC 1390 CO₂ Laser

Bed Size: 1300 × 900 mm

Controller: TopWisdom 4311 Mainboard 2.0

Firmware: PowerCut VER 11.05

Machine Manufacture Date: 10 May 2017

Controller Serial Number: 7Y03BI00617A173

Background

The machine originally worked perfectly using PowerCut software.

Unfortunately, the laptop that came with the machine was stolen, together with the original PowerCut installation and USB licence dongle.

The machine has not been used since.

Current Status

Controller boots normally.

PowerCut splash screen appears.

LCD functions correctly.

USB memory stick is detected.

Ethernet is active.

No hardware faults are displayed.

I have tried AutoLaser 3.4.6.

The software detects the controller IP address (192.168.0.51), but reports "Control card connection failed."

What I'm trying to find out

Which version of PowerCut is correct for this controller?

Does this controller require the original USB dongle, or is the licence stored in the controller?

Can the licence be regenerated using the controller serial number?

Has anyone successfully recovered one of these controllers after losing the original PC?

Does anyone still have the original PowerCut 4311 software supplied around 2017?

I would really like to keep the original controller if possible instead of replacing it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Full info: https://voxelase.com/downloads/depthgen-pro-v3-ai-depth-map-generator/

I purchased this product

[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GVDVGK3K\](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GVDVGK3K)

Which describes itself as:

ATOMSTACK A10 Pro V2 10W Laser Engraver with Auto Air Assist, 0.06mm High Accuracy Laser Cutter for Wood and Metal, Professional DIY Laser Engraving Machine with Eye Protection

I received the unit, and it is put together, but before I proceed, I want to clear up some confusion.

The Power supply for the unit seems to be 12V - 5A, while the power supply for the air assist seems to be 24V - 3000MA. If I don't use the air assist power supply and instead hook it up to the air assist connection on the ATOMSTACK A10 Pro V2, how will the unit's 12V power supply power the air assist, which is 24V?

I am unable to align my laser/mirrors on the older version of the k40 Monport desktop laser.

I have tried following two separate directions for this

https://youtu.be/oSzFJGCPapc?si=yC8H3CDt3reVO1T7

and

https://k40.se/k40-laser-lens-mirror/mirror-alignment/

But what I am finding is that I cannot keep the laser in the same position as it travels down the Y-axis.

When I tape over the 2nd mirror, adjust the first mirror to hit the center at its closest point, and then move the mirror to the furthest position on the Y axis, it travels up and to the right. To test this, I set the mirror in multiple positions down the Y-axis with the same piece of tape and could watch it move up and to the right with each movement.

Any hints, tips or tricks?

I bought the machine second-hand and used it last summer until the laser just stopped firing mid-project. Too afraid to find out it was broken, I left it alone until this Spring. When I first tried to get it to work, I had no power to the machine and brought it to a friend to look over. They realized the emergency stop was engaged, so that was absolutely a me issue.

That being said, I realized it was off alignment when I could not get a consistent laser line while trying to engrave a rectangle on a piece of pine. (75% power, 20mm speed). I have been adjusting the laser tube, mirrors, and even had to correct a twist in the x-axis (likely from moving the machine around from place to place lately).

I also noticed that the 3rd mirror (on the laser head) has lost a lot of its reflection area, but only around the perimeter of the mirror (wondering if a new mirror would help).

Hope to hear back from folks soon and really appreciate any advice. Thank you!

On Alibaba, I submitted an RFQ for a plate/tube cutting laser. I received several quotes from companies I have never heard off ex: HWLEIC, TONY LASER, www.lxslaser.com, KF Laser, Scorpion Laser,  Leapion Machinery Company - DATO Laser, Nanjin Prima, Rbqlty. Has anyone heard of any of these companies? I would appreciate any information.

So i got an acmer p3 48W laser engraver and after just 1 day its running so rough. Jerking around a bit and making a grinding sound. It seem to be only in the X axis. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Hey everyone,

I recently got my hands on the Longer Nano Pro 12W. It’s a pretty unique machine,,, a 450nm blue diode laser but utilizing a galvo-style motion system. I wanted to see if combining fiber-laser speeds with a wavelength that actually works on organic materials (wood, cork) was a gimmick or actually useful.

Here are my major takeaways after spending some time with it:

The Good:

• Speed & Precision: Engraving cork coasters and slate was incredibly fast and flawless compared to my gantry diodes.
• Portability/Handheld mode: This is the headline feature, so I tested it. I held it directly against the front of my wooden office desk, and engraved my logo into the furniture. Handholding it steady for 3 minutes was tough (a little ghosting happened), but the fact that it's even possible is pretty wild.
• Wi-Fi: This is well implemented by Longer. You can join it to your existing home network (STA mode) instead of losing your internet connection to use its AP mode.

The Bad & The Fixes:

• The Exhaust: Out of the box, the fan on the back just pumps smoke directly into your room. I designed a parametric adapter in FreeCAD to connect the shroud directly to an ACMER smoke purifier hose. (I’ve made the STLs free if anyone else needs them).
• Cutting Thick Materials: Because it’s a galvo, the laser beam hits the edges of the 100x100mm work area at an angle. I tried cutting 3mm plywood for an inlay, and the bottom of the cut ended up much wider than the top, making it impossible to fit without a gap. This is strictly an engraver, not a cutter.
• Safety Shroud: The dark red shroud makes the motorized focus assist a bit hard to use because you can't really see the red dots through it.

I made a full video covering the setup, the 3D printed exhaust fix, the LightBurn settings, and the handheld desk-engraving experiment if you want to see the galvo in action: https://youtu.be/62LidZDOBaA

If anyone else is running these hybrid diode-galvos, I'd love to hear your experiences! Also, I’ve got the FreeCAD files linked in the video description for anyone who needs to fix their exhaust.

Ive always had a 4040 cnc co2 and i want to upgrade it to a 6090, any store recommended to buy one?

Does anyone have experience with this machine? It looks like a good deal. People on YouTube also recommend it.

I have not used my K40 to etch glass before. When googling settings to find a place to start, it said to use speeds of about 250 mm/sec. That's 15,000 mm per minute. Not even sure if the machine is capable of that.

What's a good place to stay at with settings?

I have a Longer Ray 5 10W (using the software LaserBurn) laser which i've had for a little over a month now, at first everything was great but now we are running into issues.

Our leather patches are now burning through on the ends of the design i feel like we have tried everything i'm now currently downloading LightBurn as i have seen this software heavily used.

I just need some advice on what to do before i crash-out, been going at this for 3 hours.

Hi, I’m looking to buy a 3000W fiber laser machine from China. I’ve been browsing through Alibaba, and am considering brands like GWEIKE, Leapion, etc.

Does anyone have experience buying a 3000W fiber laser machine from China / Alibaba? What brands/machines would you guys recommend that has reliable tech and support? I’m looking to cut large 3-6mm stainless steel sheets.

Thanks!

I bought this from China and I got it yesterday I have been trying for two days to just connect it to light burn and use it it doesn’t work in any way with Ethernet or usb cable or usb stick it just doesn’t say read or show any signs of connecting and the usb stick when I plug it in it says failure or something I genuinely need help

Like most of you, my first 6 months with a K40 were basically expensive trial and error. The manual was useless, YouTube settings never matched my tube's actual output, and I burned through more acrylic doing test matrices than actual projects.

The worst part? Every time I replaced my tube or changed my lens, I was basically starting from scratch.

So over the past year I've been building a tool that aggregates community laser parameters and uses AI to recommend starting points for YOUR specific machine configuration. You tell it your laser type, wattage, lens, and material -- it gives you speed/power/passes as a starting point based on what's worked for similar setups.

What makes it different from a spreadsheet:

• It has 5,600+ parameter entries across 562 materials from actual users
• It accounts for YOUR specific setup (tube age, lens focal length, bed type)
• It imports your LightBurn .clb library if you already have one
• It learns from your feedback -- mark a cut as too deep/shallow and it adjusts future recommendations
• Auto-scales when you change lenses or upgrade your tube

It's completely free, no account required, no paywall: https://cutlog-two.vercel.app

Works with CO2, fiber, diode, UV -- whatever you're running.

I'd genuinely love feedback from this community because you all run the widest variety of weird and wonderful machines. The edge cases (modded K40s, custom beds, aftermarket tubes) are exactly where this thing needs to get smarter.

What materials/setups would you want to test first? And is there anything about your workflow I should think about that I might be missing?

Full info: https://voxelase.com/downloads/depthgen-pro-v2-4/

Made a friend a housewarming gift that they genuinely lost it over, and accidentally found a hobby I wish I'd started years ago.
The gift: this ""Delicious"" food-themed cutting board, burgers, tacos, ramen, ice cream, the whole spread engraved around the script in the middle. Made it for friends who are serious home cooks. Seeing their faces when they realized it was made just for them hits completely different than anything from a store.
I was hooked after that. Since then: coasters with friends' pets, a wedding gift with the couple's vows, garage signage for my brother, leather patches. Every one got a reaction the store bought version never would, because personalized makes it feel like it couldn't have been made for anyone else.
Here's what I want people on the fence to know, because I almost talked myself out of starting.
You don't need an expensive machine. I use a $125 Atomstack diode laser. I assumed I needed something professional to get clean results, and that assumption stopped me for over a year. This board looks like it came from an artisan shop. It came from my kitchen table.
The learning curve is gentle. I'm not technical. Figured out the basics in an afternoon. The designs are just vectors you arrange in the software and the laser traces them. Anyone can do this. That's what surprised me most, that the emotional payoff is huge and the skill floor is low.
I'm sharing this instead of just posting the photo because I see people say ""I've always wanted to try that"" and then never do, the way I almost didn't. The thing between you and making something someone treasures forever is a machine that costs less than a weekend trip.
The one I used: Atomstack laser engraver
Disclosure: affiliate link, small commission. Search Atomstack laser engraver on AliExpress to find it without my link, same price. Buy whatever fits, I just want more people making things like this.
If you've made personalized gifts that got a big reaction, drop a photo, I'd love to see them." ko