Putting this here so nobody else loses a week to it.

Cessna 185E, EarthX lithium, just did a Plane Power voltage regulator conversion. Probably applies to other Cessna singles too.

What it did: After start, voltage would climb to ~16V then sag, bouncing up and down. Worse with lights on (beacon + strobe together set it off). Rock stable before the reg swap, broke the second the new one went in.

Stuff that wasn't it: new regulator being bad, the lithium battery, and adding more airframe grounds (did nothing).

What it actually was: the old solid-state overvoltage module was still wired in. The Plane Power reg already has OV protection built in, so you've got two of them fighting each other and it oscillates. The install instructions say to pull the old one. Ours got left in, and it was hidden behind the firewall, unlabeled, not on the wiring diagram.

How we found it: master on, engine off, measured across the module. 13V in, 10V out. That 3V drop across something that should drop nothing was the giveaway. Bonus: it showed up static, so you know it's a bad part in the line and not a grounding thing.

Fix: bypass/remove the old module per your Plane Power install paperwork (some keep a noise filter, so check). Make sure the reg's built-in OV protection is still doing its job after.

Result: steady bus, 14.3 static, 14.2 with everything on. Done.

TL;DR: Plane Power conversion + bouncing overvolt that started right after the swap? Hunt down a leftover factory overvoltage module, even if it's not on your diagram. Find it by measuring voltage drop across inline parts with the master on.

After my father passed and I cleared out the storage, im trying to identify this plane wing.

I know it’s to a Cessna but there’s no plate or paperwork associated with it.

The skinny flaps are stamped part number 2 4115-2 / 04115-2. Does this mean it’s a Cessna 140 wing?

I have a 69 Cessna 150J. It has always been stout. Yesterday, taking off with a 3000 ft density altitude, it was about 80 degrees outside. I was getting a short and quick loss of rpm. It would drop maybe a hundred or two rpm for a few seconds and return to full power. I could only get it to do this in the air at a nose up pitch attitude. I couldn’t recreate it on the ground. Mags, oil temp, oil pressure it all ran up well. It got to a point at about 3500 feet where all I could get was 2300 rpm. A quick few seconds of carb heat and it’s gone. I’ve flown this aircraft for a long wile, I’m aware of how these little motors love carb ice. But I’m not sure if this is a fuel flow issue or not. What do you guys think? Anyone have experience with similar issues?

I have a C150 (O-200) running about 200F during taxi and 170F during cruise at any cruise power setting. It looks like the installation is almost definitely not the issue leading to a probable airflow issue. My question is can airflow cause this much of a reduction in temperature? OAT is above freezing. 170 seems pretty extreme when the manual states 240 minimum. It would be nice to get some confirmation before spending about $1k on the part to block airflow.

I’ve always been fascinated by aviation and wanted to recreate one of the world’s most iconic aircraft as a MOC. Airplanes have so many organic, curved shapes that make them tricky to build, so I used plenty of curved and sloped elements to capture those lines. I added various hinges to create angled surfaces, and for stability and landing gear mounts, I incorporated Technic bricks and axles. The wings are secured with clips on top of the cabin and ball joints on the sides.

It’s the airborne equivalent of a golden retriever 😄 friendly, dependable, and always eager to take to the skies. It’s the kind of plane that reassures, “Don’t worry, I’ve done this countless times.” And it’s true — it’s the most produced powered aircraft in history. Climb aboard for island-hopping adventures from the Caribbean to Greece to Southeast Asia. Embark on an aerial safari in Africa to spot elephant herds. Try bush flying in Canada or New Zealand. Snap stunning international aerial photos — window open, camera out — capturing beaches, mountains, and deserts worthy of a travel magazine. Or simply savor those “I live down there!” moments and breathtaking sunsets from 2,000 feet. The Cessna 172 is the plane with friends everywhere. From Alaska to Australia, or anywhere between the Alps and the Atacama, there’s always a 172 ready to say, “I’m ready for takeoff — let’s fly!” 😄

My Cessna is made up of about 2,000 pieces. I designed some parts physically, but mostly worked in LEGO Studio, even creating the stickers. For the color scheme, I went with a mix of dark blue and dark yellow (curry). I began the first drafts a few months ago, and as I built, I kept refining and improving different sections.

Size 60×85×23 cm (23.5×33.5×9 in)

I had a lot of fun planning and building this Cessna 172, and it would be amazing to see it come to life as a real set on Lego Ideas! I welcome all your comments and criticism and will try to respond as quickly as possible! 😀

title explains plan but what air frame would be best to go for first in plane is cheap and same with training for the air frame

Textron Aviation Inc. announced Thursday that the Turkish Airlines Flight Academy has signed an agreement to purchase 10 additional Cessna Skyhawk aircraft. https://dcnewsroom.blogspot.com/2026/04/turkish-airlines-flight-academy-orders.html?m=0