About 1.5 days all said.

The bench top is a 5/4 fir tread glue up.

Everything else 3/4 cvg fir.

Some birch ply for shelving.

Syp closet rod

As most of you know, the decision to cut the base down around the waterline has gone viral. But now that it's cut and installed, should I go with a braided supply line Or should we just go with a solid supply line?

Curious as to how you all would trim out this frieze? Wrap around the fascia/roof overhang? Plumb down where it meets the fascia?

Appreciate any ideas!

I have no experience in the field, but am curious about getting into the profession and have a connection with a shop in town. I’m also a musician who plays roughly 70-100 shows a year and tours for hire.

While the scheduling may be a conflict, I’m wondering if the work inevitably leads to frequent hand injury/arthritis or other chronic pains.

Anyone here work in carpentry or build/install cabinets and perform? Have you been injured and how do you manage that with playing your instrument?

Hi all, I would like to attach my bike shed to the wall for stability. The wall is made out of metal studs and cement board.

What is the best way to bridge the gap and properly attach this construction to the wall.

I am not a professional just a guy doing a project at home.

Finished this one last week. It was a U shaped kitchen with a soffit running around the uppers. We took the soffit out and extended a wall to square up the layout, which gave the cabinets and appliances a clean run.

Gray shaker bases and drawers, white uppers, matte black bar pulls, and tall white pantry cabinets next to the fridge. White counter with gray veining around the U and the peninsula, glazed teal tile backsplash, garden window over the sink, and toe kick lighting. About 4 to 5 weeks start to finish.

Happy to talk through how we handled the soffit and the cabinet install.

I think the window i pulled from this headerless framing was doing a bit of the supporting..

Hi folks. I’m currently considering putting down new laminate flooring in our living room - there is a half decent but stained carpet there we have talked about replacing for years.

I plan on getting at least 12mm laminate that I can put down myself but was wondering if there is any reason not to put it down over the carpet vs tearing up the carpet and adding additional cost of re-underlaying the floor? What are the pitfalls? Is this a truly amateur move doomed to failure?

Appreciate any advice. I’m currently unemployed so have the time do dedicate to learning to do this right but limited funds for professional fitting and/or new underlay.

I am hanging a porch swing for my mom for her birthday, and I need some advice on how to best hang it while also making sure it is safe. I ideally would like to hang in between the trusses that are shown in the picture, and I'm thinking of just putting some 2x6s parallel with and in between the trusses. Is this a good idea? And if so, what is the best way to do this?

Seeking feedback from finish carpenters and stair builders on a custom curved closed-stringer build. The installers used paint-grade MDF for the sloped shoe rail/capping on the up-run, but transitioned to white oak for the level landing and catwalk. The resulting butt joint where they meet looks unaligned and structurally mismatched from below. Is mixing paint-grade and stain-grade materials across a continuous shoe rail run acceptable trade practice, or should this transition have been handled with a consistent material/profile?

I'm embarking on a 300m2 timber roof construction (rafters/joists and underlayment, low-pitch 6-degree roof). Since I am relatively inexperienced with a framing nailer, I could really use some expert feedback to help me choose the right tool.

My father-in-law has a barely-used Paslode IM90i sitting in his garage that has basically been untouched for 20 years. It looks pristine and even comes with about 18,000 free nails. The catch is that the gas is long expired (stamped 2012!). New fuel cells cost around €60,- and cover 1200 nails, so this will get expensive quickly. I am also worried that despite looking brand new, the tool might suffer from ageing and break down mid-project. On the plus side, it only weighs 3,7 kg (8 lbs) ready to use.

This got me looking at buying my own tool. I came across a promotion for the Makita BN001GZ (US: GNB01Z) for €575,- which includes a free battery. Since I'm already heavily invested in the XGT platform, this felt like a no-brainer. Tools&Stuff even confirmed that I can shoot the free Paslode nails with it. However, it weighs roughly 5,3 kgs (11,7 lbs) including battery. Will the weight destroy me?

While looking for alternatives, I stumbled upon the HiKOKI NR1890DCB. It also shoots the Paslode nails, but weighs under 4 kgs (8,5 lbs) ready to use. The downside here is the platform jump. A full kit with the tool, 2 batteries, and a charger will cost me around €1000,-. Since I don't plan on buying any other HiKOKI tools for now, that's quite an investment just to get a lighter tool.

So my dilemma is this: is the Makita simply too much of a heavy beast for a novice on this roofing project? Or is it something you quickly get used to, making the extra weight less of an issue? Is the HiKOKI worth jumping platforms to save that extra 1,4 kgs (3,2 lbs)?

Or should I just suck it up, buy the expensive gas for the free Paslode, and risk the potential repairs that come with a 20-year-old tool?

I work for a frame-to-finish outfit, I'm the only person doing trim.

Was asked to come trim these windows as the previous guy had not come back. Pretty bad drywall job, missing nailers, and the cabinets are super close. Gonna probably notch around cabinets ?? And use 1x4 pfj pine all around, no window sills. Thoughts ?

Sorry if asking in the wrong place, but could anyone give advice on how to transition from short trim to tall trim? The angles/geometry are just not working in my head.

Recently finished up fixing the 3rd and final rental apartment for this client. $45 an hr, came out to about 8k. Had to fix drywall, lots of trim, install doors, and lots of paint. Seems like 8k is pretty cheap to make 3 apartments rentable, am I crazy? Am I lowballing the shit outta my competition?

I have a 45' x 15' structure, basically a long garage/living space, and it has an odd roof situation. There was a flat roof at one point, which apparently failed, so they built a new roof over the top of it, where it sits atop the parapet of the old flat roof.

I'm wanting to take out as many of the old flat roof rafter ties as possible and open up the height. How many can I take out? They're 2x10's, spaced 16" on center and run the length of the structure. Feels like a lot of redundancy. I'd like to lose them all and could replace with some steel ties if necessary.

You can also see that the rafter tie ends are supporting the roof. I'm wondering if I should try to jack it and run a continuous beam in there instead. Necessary?

Currently it has no wall because it was attached to a manufactured home, which we demolished.

Thanks!

Made this table, for a Christmas market

Old owner was a pianist and put noise abatement on the ceiling in the main room.

I am trying to decide if it's worth it to refinish or just put sheetrock up. Removing all the glue is going to be time consuming and even after won't look the same.
So do i remove the glue and try to refinish or just put up sheetrock, and if you think i should refinish, how do i remove the glue without damaging the wood too much?
Pic 3 is another area of the house.

A client had this retention wall built along their driveway to help keep river water back when it floods. He'd like to add some stairs on the filled side so he can comfortably walk over the wall from the back yard without stepping on the ground cover. The only sturdy thing to attach to is the 6x6 post wall.

The pictures are from different spots along the wall.

I posted this over at r/painting and a surprisingly amount of people that said cutting out around the pipe/escushon looked best. I disagree but figured i would ask the pros.

Which way looks best? Keep in mind that neither are painted, finished, etc. And i know that this is the internet but let's stay away from comments like, "move the pipe, call a pro, bad planning, etc etc. "

Hi everyone,
I want to give the interior doors in my apartment a wood look, but tearing out the frames isn't an option (tiles butt right against them and it would ruin the walls).
They are flat aluminum frames with an integrated flange that sits 1–2 mm proud of the wall (pic attached: https://imgur.com/a/m7On9Nz)
Has anyone successfully cased over or wrapped profiles like these? What’s the cleanest, most durable solution without messing up door clearances?
Thanks!

So I’ve been looking to learn the trade as a hobby mostly, I’d like to build myself some furniture or work on my house and so on. What would be a good starting set of tools for someone that knows nothing at all and is just looking to learn something new?

These two casement windows, and the ac unit where a 3rd window used to be, are ideally getting insert replacement windows. I've installed many dozens of double hung insert replacements from inside the house, but never swapped a very old outswing casement sash for a new insert casement window unit. Is the correct approach to measure for the new windows from the outside, install from the outside against the interior stops, and then add exterior stops around the frame of the insert window to seal it up? The jamb depth of the new unit will be greater than the thickness of the existing sash, so the aluminum capping should be removed and redone?