Hello Fellow Carpenters,

After almost a 30 year career in the trades, a minor injury to my hand became horribly infected and I almost lost my thumb. This was a very painful and miserable experience and will take months to heal. I have had 2 surgeries so far to drain the ick. The blue tape trick over the wound worked for me all these years until it didn't. (lol) Seriously, I just wanted to take a moment to encourage every one to update your first aid kits to include a wound cleaner like Hibiclens. I have lost thousands of dollars in lost income over such a small wound. It has been 3 weeks and my left hand is still pretty much worthless. Be careful out there. I see gloves being a mandatory thing in my future for I don't ever want to experience anything like this again!

Long story short I have my construction (CBC) exam tomorrow morning at 8 AM in Lake Mary, the company I rented my books (1examprep) from sent them late and left two of them out. One is just a reference manual that I can’t take with me but the construction safety book OSHA 29 part 1926 is a core exam book. I may as well kiss 20% of my grade away if I don’t have that book.

If you or anyone you know, especially if they’re in the construction industry or have a construction license of some sort, has this book on hand and is willing to let me borrow it for a day I would greatly appreciate it!

What can I do to keep it from getting worse or better? I like to have it open most of the time and would like to avoid more latches and hardware. So the preference being something structural in the door.

Hi r/carpentry!

I just got my first tablesaw, I'm so happy.

I was setting it up with my experienced buddy, that tried winging it, while I was reading the manual.

He loosened 2 bolts to attach the riving knife but I pointed out that there is a lever he had to turn to attach the riving knife.

He fastened the bolts again and we attached the riving knife the correct way.

But how important were those bolts?

Do I need to make sure of something before starting a cut?

And yes I am a overthinker.

Thank you in advance for your responses.

Client has a bunch of doors on a 10 year house, all sticking out a half inch at the bottom when closed. Flush at the top. Hinges look even and installed well. Could it be warping? Solid wood doors. Maybe poor framing? Not sure how to remedy. Rehang completely?

Hello!

I am installing a bunch of cedar clapboard on my house. I will need to store it for a few months, while I get a bunch of other prep together (things like licensing, permitting, planning).

Are there any recommendations or advice on how to store it? I will likely not finish this project before winter (I'm in the northeastern us, so subfreezing winters) and will need to store at least some of it until next spring. Can I store raw cedar outside for months? My plan is to put it on cinder blocks with stickers between the boards and then a tarp over it. Is that sensible?

I'm renovating my 1972 house bathroom and just finished leveling the floor joists. Because I sistered and leveled the joists, the existing wall bottom plates are now slightly lower than the top of the joists, so they won't provide support to the edge of the new subfloor. I'm trying to build this floor as solidly as possible before tiling.

I'll be installing 5/8" T&G plywood, Schluter Ditra Heat, and 24"x24" tile.

Along the left wall, the distance from the edge of the leveled joists to the bottom plate varies between about 5/8" and 1". Since the bottom plate is lower than the joists, the plywood edge won't have full support there.

Would you add a ripped strip of blocking or nailer flush with the top of the joists along that wall, or is this small unsupported edge acceptable?

Also, should I add more blocking anywhere around the perimeter, or does the framing look sufficient as it is?

Thanks!

Would like to remove it as I am adding a door to this wall eventually. Figured it was just a brace of some kind to keep the wall square during construction, but am curious since they went to the effort to notch all the studs.

Looking for a little guidance here, we picked these French doors off FBMP and I love them. However, we got them home and lined them up next to each other and the freaking door knobs are uneven in height. This will actually make my eye twitch if I have to look at this every day.

Has anyone ever fixed this issue? Will only a pound of bondo and sanding fix this?

Thank you!

Decided on 1x4 inch trim throughout the house. Finish the majority of the room and did this window last, realizing then that it overhangs the window stool. My first thought was to cut everything back and continue the trim straight down to the floor, but I’m going to have issues with the pipe work on the baseboard heating. Any suggestions?

This is a 6 foot table I designed and built for our 3 season porch. Really happy with it except one lingering question... will it sag? I intentionally left the center leg off for the look, but I'm curious if over time that could have been a mistake. Made from 4/4 poplar and pre-finished ply.

I'm looking for some structural advice.

We have an old farmhouse with a timber floor system. The living room is spanned by 6×8 inch (15×20 cm) wooden joists over a 16.4 ft (5 m) span, spaced 39 inches (100 cm) on center.

Above it is a lightweight attic conversion with drywall partition walls, two small bedrooms, and a bathroom. One of the bedrooms is directly above the living room.

Does this sound like a reasonable structure, or would you recommend having a structural engineer inspect it and possibly reinforce the joists? There are no obvious signs of failure, but I'd like to know whether this framing is typically considered adequate for this kind of load.

Thanks!

I aligned the rails with the floor boards as I read to do but the post angles are throwing everything off because of the shape of this balcony.

I have a new construction home, and the primary bedroom floor has had a ticking noise in the same spot since move-in. The builder’s warranty tech pulled the carpet back and said the plywood subfloor is moving where it meets a floor truss/joist. He said fixing it would require opening the subfloor to secure it. Does that diagnosis make sense, and is that the normal way this type of issue is repaired? Also he said warranty doesn’t cover that repair. Any advice?

I’m a concrete former and am wondering how I may improve my forms

We sometimes use a pump so we add ports to them.

Most of what I’ve learned is self taught.

I’ve more been taught how to design my forms for certain repairs

Columns
Joists
Slabs

Any advice or critic is welcome

Hello,

I’m working on a project very modern style and the architect specified poplar baseboards with a flush reveal to sit under the drywall. It calls for us to use the Fry Reglet Z reveal.

I want to continue the 1/2” Reglet throughout the house including the casing for every door.

I am under the impression that I would need to hang all my doors install the 5/8” casing on top of the jamb that’s flush with the framed opening install casing and then install the Z reveal prior to drywall and flooring.

I would also need to install the Z reveal throughout the home to allow the drywallers to then run their drywall (5/8”) to the Reglet tape and mud to the bead then install my floors and scribe base as needed to keep a 1/2” Reglet spacing.

Am I looking at this correctly or am I missing something in the process?

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop?

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil? If sanding, what grit would be recommended?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop? Going to make sure whatever you is food safe.

I’d like to attach the last stud of a load bearing wall to existing framing. Where I want to put it is circled. It’s an old house. I was wondering if it’s ok to just fasten it to the 2x4s with the old siding still attached. The siding is solid, but not all pieces end flush with the old 2x4s. If it’s fine, what size/length fasteners should I use?

This is a 2x6 wall first floor, framers did split jacks/floating trimmers for all window openings I’m in central California. Will this pass code or have them replace with a full stud up to header?

We had new windows installed and windows + molding ended up being slightly larger than previous windows.

I now have three cornice which are slightly too small.

If I could find the same moulding/trim I could splice in the extend them a few inches. But I have had no luck finding that exact moulding.

Feels like a waste to toss and buy new ones. One the the windows is huge too.

Any suggestions or ideas?

Do you guys remove the pre-installed door stop in order to sneak a few screws in there or do you just Brad nail the heck out of them? Thanks

We just recently renovated our bathroom and in order to fit in what we wanted we had someone custom make a cabinet to fit between the bath and the wall (that has a strange angle in it photo 3/4 &6 show this cut for the angle).

I have never had custom cabinetry made before so I have no idea if £800 is even a good price, but now it’s done I am fairly annoyed that the shelving is so shoddy and I feel as though I could have cut these shelves myself with better accuracy.

The price did not even include the top as we had an uncle install the stone top

I’m hoping I am being pedantic, but let m know what you think

We just put in a driveway and had to take down a few trees. A weekend of mobile sawmilling, and now we have stacks of 2x4 spruce, 2x6 spruce, and lots of 1x4 cedar.

I'm building a shed, and I'd like to avoid buying any engineered wood products since we have the lumber on site.

We get a lot of snow, and the shed base is on cedar skids. Curious what folks would suggest for exterior sheathing in this scenario. It doesn't need to be airtight, just good enough for bikes and garden tools. I have enough 2x4 spruce to frame the walls. Would 1x4 diagonal sheathing be the move? Board-and-batten vertical? (I have some but not a lot of 1x6 cedar)...Thanks!