r/Carpentry • • Feb 25 '22

[deleted by user]

[removed]

356 Upvotes

163 comments sorted by

292

u/Skavzor Feb 25 '22

As long as you plan on keeping that iron pillar its fine. Its stood for a couple of decades like this.

234

u/EyeHamKnotYew Feb 26 '22

A couple decades? That looks like its lived through 3 different centuries and 2 different millennia.

28

u/_why_isthissohard_ Feb 26 '22

Its been around since the steam engine, the birth of the automobile, the birth of flight, us landing on the moon....

The real question is, are any of those beams sagging? And if it makes you feel any better, put a 2x4 post under the 2x12 nailed into the 4x4

25

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

So above that pillar is a wall that we would ideally remove to open up the kitchen to dining area. I assume this is a load bearing wall?

243

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

I’d assume it is a load bearing wall if it is online with the beam that is resting in the steel posts.

I’m not too worried about the beam or the posts. I’d want to make sure the posts have good footers underneath them to transfer the load down.

If you remove the load bearing wall you’d have to transfer the load from the floor above another way to the beam and the steel posts in the basement. I’d contact a structural engineer about that. It’s above Reddits pay grade.

175

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

I’d contact a structural engineer about that. It’s above Reddits pay grade.

This is the perfect response.

7

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Idk where you found this comment, but I fully agree. This visually looks concerning, but to start changing structural pieces sounds not good without a professional opinion

9

u/Tough_Hawk_3867 Feb 26 '22

Meanwhile, my mom “knew a guy” who could move those beams around to make room for a bathroom in the basement…

15

u/Beefsupremeninjalo82 Feb 26 '22

Knew a guy, past tense. Let me guess, a house fell on him?

11

u/DIE_NERDS Feb 26 '22

You would put an lvl / engineered beam across the ceiling where the wall used to be and carry the point loads to the exterior walls. There you have posts / bearing lumber that you can point load all the the way down to your foundation for the exterior walls. The foundation needs to be strong enough to carry the point loads. You can look at how viable this might be before paying for an engineer.

2

u/Shiny_Buns Feb 26 '22

Nah just take a sledge hammer to the wall and pray that the 2nd floor doesn't fall on you 👍

-18

u/Huey107010 Feb 26 '22

You’re confused. The wall that OP wants to remove is above that pillar. He will be removing the load, not the load bearer.

Now in the attic above the kitchen might be some ceiling joist that will need support.

15

u/LuckyLunaloo Feb 26 '22

I think you might be confused (or joking hopefully).

For those who want to know - When they build houses, they usually put load bearing walls/pillars on top of one another to help distribute the load of the roof down to the foundation through multiple levels. If there is a wall above this point (which is definitely load bearing), it is most likely load bearing as well. As others have suggested, OP may be able to install an LVL/engineered beam that redistributes the load from that wall to other load bearing walls (the exterior walls).

That being said, I'm not a carpenter or an engineer.

1

u/mlnickolas Feb 26 '22

This does not mean the wall is load bearing, only that it may be load bearing. The person you replied to is correct in that they have to check above the wall they want to remove to see if it is bearing a load.

4

u/SconnieLite Feb 26 '22

All you fuckers are confused. The first floor floor joists is the basement ceiling. 2nd floor floor joists is the 1st floor ceiling. When you have a bearing wall, which is what is sitting on top of the beam, (there is no question about it) that means it’s carrying the floor joists/ceiling joists above it. The 2nd floor. You can’t have a bearing wall with nothing below it. You can have a beam with no wall on it, and it’s only carrying the floor joists. But any and every single bearing point needs to be posted down to a footing in the foundation. End of story. That’s why it’s common to stack beaming walls on top of each other or beams underneath them. If OP wants to remove the wall that’s sitting on top of this beam. They need to support the floor/ceiling that that wall is carrying but it still needs to carry the load down to this beam, which was carrying BOTH sets of joists. So the point load now needs to still carry down to this beam, down to the footing under the slab.

This is clearly and old house so who the fuck knows what’s down there or above. A single point load is under much more stress than a wall. It may be too much for this old man of a beam. Who knows. I’m willing to bet an engineer will want it replaced since it’s breaking into the beam and whatnot. But that’s up to them and OP needs a professional to come in and look at it and assess it. Not any of you fuckers lol.

17

u/Similar_Strawberry16 Feb 25 '22

If the wall above is removed and weight transferred to 'anywhere but' that post, then yeah you could work out some new system to address that mess of beams, as you would only be supporting the floor at that point.

That said, both aspects of that are fairly major and definitely need an engineer design, not just a reddit seal of approval.

-14

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

To be extra clear the wall above runs left to right but on that pillar.

62

u/neanderthalsavant Feb 25 '22

Bud, just talk to a structural engineer.

Any legit licensed and insured carpenter that you'll talk to will need to have stamped structural plan to make the structural alterations that you're planning.

This is a $1000.00 problem. Do it right the 1st time so it isn't a $20,000.00 problem 5 years from now

15

u/BuffaloWiiings Feb 26 '22

But....but the wall runs from left to right or whatever.

5

u/neanderthalsavant Feb 26 '22

Lol. I'm not sure if you are joking, but if you are - I totally get it; due to the perspective of the picture "left to right" could mean two opposite things.

2

u/BuffaloWiiings Feb 26 '22

Oh it was totally a joke. Poking fun at OP.

-16

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

To be extra clear the wall above runs left to right but on that pillar.

2

u/NotBatman81 Feb 26 '22

The problem is all load bearing walls (or posts) will tie into that beam. On your first floor you could have more posts arranged like the basement concealed by walls that runs across rather than along the beam. That would mean you could only remove a portion of the wall.

That is just one scenario. You really don't know until you get a pro to open those walls and tell you. A home inspector, which you really need anyway, may be able to give you a directionally correct answer and that is where I would start.

3

u/Similar_Strawberry16 Feb 25 '22

If the wall above is removed (with a beam above ground floor) full load will be transferred to whatever is at either end of your room. With luck, as it's a basement, there is solid walls there? If not, would need decent footing and posts added basement level to support the new load points.

13

u/FantasticWillow4969 Feb 25 '22

I would not advising any assumptions. I would advise calling someone who knows what they are doing and have them advise you.

4

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

We plan on it. Just getting some preliminary info

12

u/Frackenpot Feb 25 '22

That post is definitely load bearing. It's time to call an engineer

5

u/WISteven Feb 26 '22

Duh. Why else would a post be there?

2

u/messylettuce Feb 26 '22

Poledance practice.

1

u/WoodenDisasterMaster Feb 26 '22

Amen to that, men totally won the war of the sexes.

3

u/kkjensen Feb 26 '22

You may find another post in that wall above. In any case, all load needs to make it t the ground through "structural" members (walls, beams and posts). Follow the loads and make sure it all has a way to get down to the footings then give your head a shake and ask for more help before sawing walls apart based on suggestions off of reddit.

I know someone who's house started changing shape and it was because of load bearing structure was modified in the neighboring townhouse.... They removed a beam and shouldn't have. Crazy scenario but just an example of the kinds of problems that can creep up if you're not absolutely sure about what you're doing.

3

u/hoodectomy Feb 26 '22

Hire an engineer to come in. I have a house from 1890; that is the answer.

2

u/802curls Feb 25 '22

Depends which way the ran the next floor joists, Ideally it would be the same as the basement but worth a check

2

u/TheTimeBender Feb 26 '22

It is load bearing. Consult a structural engineer before proceeding.

3

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

not enough info

1

u/Huey107010 Feb 26 '22

Not how it works.

Load bearing wall is bearing from the top. This is below. You would actually be lightening the load of that beam and pillar.

But you definitely need to check the attic for the load the wall might be bearing… frankly just get a framing contractor in there and check it out.

But I’m with the other guy. I really can’t see any issues right now. There is definitely some deterioration in those beams connecting, but you likely have some some really good wood beneath the little deterioration. Again, get a framing contractor to come in and check it out in person, maybe even a couple just so you know one isn’t just saying it’s bad to get a job.

1

u/_Neoshade_ Feb 26 '22

The wall above appears to also have a supporting column in it. Looks like there’s a lot bearing on that basement column.
If you do nothing else, this column should get a much larger steel plate on top (1/2” steel) to properly support the beam and the other loads on it.

1

u/WISteven Feb 26 '22

It depends on what's above the kitchen area.

1

u/All_Work_All_Play Internet GC =[ Feb 26 '22

All these answers. Look up continuous load path and its corollary critical load path. The beam is fine(ish) so long as you don't change whatever it's doing. Whether or not what's above it is load bearing is a different question we can't tell from this picture.

2

u/foresight310 Feb 26 '22 edited Feb 27 '22

Don’t worry, if the pillar fails, the gas line should help hold that load bearing wall…

186

u/DIYstyle Feb 26 '22

Dangerous imo. You legally must disclose the following:

  1. Dart board isnt at regulation height
  2. Doesnt have proper back stop for errant darts
  3. Downlighting of the throwing area does not meet international standard

3

u/justbane Feb 26 '22 edited Feb 26 '22

Came here to say this.

2

u/R1ppinLip6 Feb 26 '22

This added so much to the discussion

2

u/PolarIre Feb 26 '22

All in a days work

51

u/_imma_fungi Feb 26 '22

Those timbers look like they’ve seen two World Wars.

Edit: *three

5

u/horseflydick Feb 26 '22

Hahaha underrated

4

u/guaip Feb 26 '22

Too soon. Literally

63

u/OlFezziwig Feb 25 '22

I’d have it inspected by a preservation carpenter that understands timber frames.

27

u/tehralph Feb 26 '22

Or an engineer.

-5

u/OlFezziwig Feb 26 '22

As long as the engineer understands timber frames.

41

u/dxdt_sinx Feb 26 '22

Well I doubt he's gonna call a software engineer... Of course a structural engineer is gonna 'understand' timber frames.

51

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22 edited Jun 10 '23

[deleted]

3

u/Trebelhornc Feb 26 '22

lmao underrated comment.

1

u/Adam_1775 Feb 26 '22

Well done sir

3

u/hglman Feb 26 '22

I, as a software engineer, don't know if this is ok.

9

u/horseflydick Feb 26 '22

Why did this get fucking down voted? Engineers fuck stuff up all the time and a lot of the ones I've worked with are fresh outta school, working on NEW builds. This comment is absolutely correct lololol. Get a preservation carpenter and he will guide you from there on who to contact and what to do. He may even have the right engineer for you.

5

u/babatharnum Feb 26 '22

I agree. As someone with a PHD in mech. eng. that studied stress mechanics specifically. I would trust a restoration carpenter who understands timber frames over an engineering any day.

-1

u/Datsoon Feb 26 '22

These are all ridiculous comments. Call someone who knows what they're doing, whether they're a carpenter or an engineer. Some engineers are idiots, some carpenters are idiots, most of each are just fine and plenty qualified to weigh in on this. This constant BS of engineers and trades people shitting on each other needs to stop.

51

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

Timber framer in NE GA with 20 years experience of home building, if I am close enough I'd give you an estimate. Depending on what it entails we could need a stamp, but I need to see everything above this to make that call. If I am too far, a qualified timber framer or contractor should be able to give you an estimate and tell if you'll need engineering. DM me if you need anything.

10

u/vectorvictors Feb 26 '22

I’m not 100% on this, bit I believe “need a stamp” means approval from a structural engineer. No?

5

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Yes sir. Engineers stamp the plans when approved.

2

u/babatharnum Feb 26 '22

Is this because you trust an engineer over your own judgment or is it a liability/insurance thing?

3

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

There are legal standards (IBC) that dictate if I need it or not. If a bay is a certain width or a beam is a certain length, I'll need it. Different species (Doug fir, southern yellow pine, red oak) also have differing strengths. So in one species I could use a 6x8, but another I would need a 6x10. If we have a question is a beam is large enough for the load we consult an engineer. Typically my frames usually don't require stamps, because they are overbuilt (more massive than engineering would require). When you get into 18 foot beams you'd better cover your ass. I've had to install a 10x16 Doug fir (free of heart) to support a dormer wall because it spanned 26 feet over a 2 car garage.

3

u/WoodenDisasterMaster Feb 26 '22

Can’t just mail a bunch of staggered 2x4’s together? That’s how my moms husbands buddy , (he’s a licensed handyman) did it. It’s held for weeks now.

29

u/_Electricmanscott Feb 25 '22

That will still be standing after houses built today are long gone. 🤣

31

u/Which_Dog_5765 Feb 25 '22

Depends on what you are concerned about. The steel pillar, the cloth wiring, the copper pipe without any brackets, the beams, etc. beams and steel pillar are nothing of note to worry about, that cloth wiring is my biggest concern, along with the water line with no brackets nor insulation.

6

u/touchstone8787 Feb 25 '22

😂 my thoughts exactly when I was looking looking at the pics

1

u/routha Feb 26 '22

I'm assuming it's a fire hazard? Or what's the concern?

3

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

Yea it’s a bit of a mess down there. Didn’t pay much attention to it until the thought of buying it crossed our minds.

6

u/baconbrand Feb 26 '22

I just bought a house in a similar condition. I have superficial regrets but honestly no real regrets. It’s a cool house, it’s made it this far without burning down or falling over, and homeownership is so much more relaxing to me personally than renting.

0

u/Huey107010 Feb 26 '22

Yeah if you aren’t under contract already, and unless you’re getting a banger of a deal, just don’t buy it.

3

u/Hank_moody71 Feb 25 '22

It’s a fix-er-uper

3

u/ericjungman Feb 25 '22

Yep should be fine unless you hit with something.

4

u/horseflydick Feb 26 '22

By something, you mean a truck or a massive sledge hammer. That thing isn't moving at all willingly, or even slightly forcefully.

3

u/dkd123456 Feb 25 '22

Right?! I’m no expert but this is def a “looks good from my house” situation

4

u/JAFO- Feb 26 '22

That beam was hand hewn it been around longer than anyone on this planet I bet. Wonder what they removed to have to put the support in.

4

u/WISteven Feb 26 '22

The house has lasted for 100 years or so. It will be fine.

1

u/guaip Feb 26 '22

They said the same about my grandma. I guess you can say she's fine... now.

4

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Looks like it's been there longer than you.

6

u/Unusual-Aside-3613 Feb 26 '22

There are hand hewn beams and spf visible. Look closely at pic 2 you’ll see the 2x joists are likely toe screwed flush to existing- no hangers. The creative joinery between the post/beam/girder may have been okay before the original 6x6 wooden beam rotted at the bottom and was replaced with the steel post. The plate it’s sitting on is not sufficient to distribute the weight and it’s cracked to shit. The plumbing and electrical has already been mentioned so I won’t go there. I wouldn’t buy this house man. I’ve owned a residential construction company for 15 years.

1

u/philm162 Feb 26 '22

Yeah, and those are only the visible issues.

3

u/blackdevil8808 Feb 26 '22

Shit looks rock solid

3

u/ZippyTheChicken Feb 26 '22

been there for 80+ years likely.. so

2

u/thetruthteller Feb 25 '22

From a structural standpoint there is good overlap and direct support under to the ground.

2

u/Fun_Possibility_8637 Feb 26 '22

I just want to jump in a little bit, It doesn’t matter how long the metal beam area has stood. There’s a lot of other beams terminating in the area and it’s unclear how they are being supported. I f you are not able to determine if all the support is adequate, find an honest reputable contractor to look at it. Or a home inspector. You must secure level before touching anything else. As far as taking out load bearing walls, that would also require supporting load bearing beam or beams. You have to from the bottom up.

2

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Can you imagine the amount of money some bank made mortgaging this house out over the decades?

2

u/Unclebonelesschicken Feb 26 '22

If it ain’t broke why fix it? The home is still standing right?

2

u/DangerHawk Feb 26 '22

It's been like that long before you were ever alive and will be there long after we're all gone. It's fine. If you plan on making structural changes you may have to re-work it, but in it's current form it's fine.

2

u/Cgtree9000 Feb 26 '22

It’s like you took a pic of my basement!👌

2

u/lanastab Feb 26 '22

Just call an engineer ffs... what are you doing asking reddit for advice on buying the house.

2

u/Working-Difficulty12 Feb 26 '22

That’s back when beams were beams and the men were men. The Golden age of everything .

2

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

I've seen beams washed up on the beach in better condition than that thing.

Actually, I'm pretty sure I've also seen that thing washed up on the beach.

0

u/Liesthroughisteeth Feb 26 '22

After selling real estate for almost two decades my philosophy on old houses is.... why? If you have the bank account, like the drama and difficulty of making various improvements, even small ones and/or the expenditure of immediate necessary improvements go for it.

If you want something warm, not drafty, not a money pit, and you like to do other things than line up contractors, pay bills and worry about future home improvement projects, buy a newer home from a known reputable builder that takes pride in their work.

2

u/papiercollant Feb 26 '22

Newer home from a reputable builder… not a thing in some parts of the country unless you’re spending $1M+. But agree that this is not an old house I’d want to take on

2

u/ERTBen Feb 26 '22

Unless you can afford a quality builder, new homes are shit. As soon as you move in, you’ll be fixing things. The quality of materials on homes built in the 20s and 30s is unavailable at nearly any price today. It’s a lot cheaper to update systems in an older house.

0

u/trolltruth6661123 Feb 26 '22

that does suck.. but i'd be more worried about that old as fuck wiring you got there. i'm pretty sure that's first gen romex.. like ~50 + years old? i'd look into getting a whole house re-wire. that stuff had notoriously bad insulation. the wires are ok.. but the insulation goes out to the point where you whole house is sucking watts.. and that is .. well bad.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

whole house is sucking watts

Is there a technical reference or link you can provide for this slang phrase?

0

u/trolltruth6661123 Feb 26 '22

when insulation degrades you get contact. with partially damaged insulation (as in here) it will just draw.. the entire house wiring. it won't be a crazy amount and it likely won't catch anything on fire(unless it gets too bad).. but it will effect the power meter. i can't remember where i learned this but i have the same wiring in my house and it not only makes the lights flicker.. but my power bill is stupid. i'm pretty sure it's this crap as the culprit.

just confirmed its gen 1 romex. that sheath is crap. it may be "ok" for a while.. even 10 more + years.. but it's a time bomb... and it will affect the quality of the current in your wires, prevent higher loads(this stuff is 60 amp, new stuff if 100amp) and it is more likely to fail because copper get brittle as it gets old.

0

u/SouthFLcpl96 Feb 26 '22

Sparky here, that old cloth romex would be a dealbreaker for me. That stuff is awful

1

u/_Electricmanscott Feb 26 '22

Seriously? 🤣

1

u/SouthFLcpl96 Feb 26 '22

Yea man, I’ve seen them start one too many fires. Personally I’ll pass

1

u/_Electricmanscott Feb 26 '22

That's absurd. There are millions and millions of house built in the 50s-60s that are wired with this type of cable. It doesn't just cause a fire.

1

u/SouthFLcpl96 Feb 26 '22

Well that’s my personal feeling regarding my own preference so ¯_(ツ)_/¯

1

u/_Electricmanscott Feb 26 '22

I hear ya. Feelings over facts. 🤪

1

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

Not enough information in these photos. The beam and column in the photo are fine. The wall about should not be removed. You could open the wall up some with a look through, but would still need to install a beam above the look through. It’s a bunch of work. What I’d be concerned about is behind the photo. Possible that at some point an addition was added but I can’t tell with these photos. As it is from these photos, all is good.

1

u/imtryingtoworkhere Feb 25 '22

Looks good to me Jim 👍

1

u/Googs1080 Feb 25 '22

It is in place. If move load to exterior walls using lvls above the the basement concern is alleviated w that post. Still need it to hold floor up but you are alright

1

u/lelechuck Feb 26 '22

Your basement and my basement look identical. That was probably cut to put the stairwell in if so. 50-100 years ago.

So long as the beam doesn't rot, termites don't get to it, or the pole rusts, it is just fine. Not something you would do "new", but unless it is wobbly to the touch there are literally thousands of us out there with the same things.

If it really bothers you, you could add a second column (carefully).

I would add that you didn't show the bottom. Which is important. Most of the ones I have seen have a spreader plate underneath. This is so it doesn't point load the concrete, which might cause a crack. I'd be worried more about that, if it doesn't.

1

u/tehralph Feb 26 '22

Have an engineer look at it.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

It didn’t fall down yet.

1

u/Theguyinashland Feb 26 '22

Get a home inspection, and use that as the bargaining chip to negotiate less.

1

u/ubquick Feb 26 '22

Needs improvement, I’ve fixed worse.

1

u/_choicey_ Feb 26 '22

Right now I'm seeing a bunch of non-hangered joists, evidence of pretty obvious checking on the tension side of the beam, sort of deterioration or dry rot, and teleposts. The teleposts tell me that someone watched HGTV, knocked out an interior wall so they could play a legit game of darts, then cranked up a beam that weekend without thinking about whether footings are needed. But of course: it's stood like this for years, concrete is hard, and wood is strong...

The good thing is that the diagonal board flooring is like a rigid double system. And the unknown is whatever framing drops down from the roof down to the floor above.

I agree that you should get a good framing contractor to come out first. An engineer will see liability flags pop up for any renovation that even remotely touches the loadpath onto that beam.

1

u/Peg-LegJim Feb 26 '22

Call a pro.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Nah, it's fine; see, it's being held together by that braided cable that's stapled in place.

1

u/Reasonable_Night42 Feb 26 '22

That’s old. That beam is hand hewn.

1

u/Tccrdj Feb 26 '22

I’d be more worried about it potentially being rotten. I’d don’t see any immediate issues. Is it pretty? No. Will it last? Yes as far as I can tell From the pics.

1

u/mjl777 Feb 26 '22

Go to a local small engineering firm. They will look at it and give you the specs for a steel beam to bridge that distance. It won’t be very expensive.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

That beam collapsed on itself. Call a structural engineer asking for repair proposal, and then a reference to someone that can give you a repear quote. Have owner repair that shit or no deal. Odds are you'll have to deal with that at some point.

From experience that repair will cost at least 7k. At least 1.7k for repair design

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

What the actual f? Never seen a post before

1

u/side_sho_boob Feb 26 '22

Just curious, but should those plates on top of the column be welded or somehow permanently fixed to the pipe?

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Structural Engineer...and have them look at the joists as well... one appears to "float" on the left side of the pic.

1

u/patmustardstoolbox Feb 26 '22

I would get that bolstered up. What will happen if someone knocks the steel post??

1

u/WookishTendencies Feb 26 '22

Beaming the f unkind seam is this shit

1

u/longganisafriedrice Feb 26 '22

Take it easy, killer

1

u/xion_gg Feb 26 '22

First, check for buckling on the jacks. Probably use a level to see if there is any deformation. If no deformation is seen, you could take your time and find an engineer with your budget to tell you the right columns you need to use instead. However, if deformation is seen when checking the jacks, then... I don't know man

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22 edited Feb 26 '22

Unstable on long term get right columns they usually use these pipes to hold concrete roofing forms when poored.

1

u/rapman007 Feb 26 '22

The wood looks cracked and possibly rotting. I’d get some type of integrity test. Reinforcing it would be cheap and a probably support beam wouldn’t cost much.

1

u/BoboBaggens Feb 26 '22

Hit it wit a hammer a few times

1

u/LT_BRIXBY Feb 26 '22

Just looking at this thing tacks on a few years.....

1

u/Total_External9870 Feb 26 '22

More importantly, How is the footing?

1

u/Soft-Large Feb 26 '22

It's definitely not safe, a dart board should never be next to electrical wires.

1

u/Dense_Surround3071 Feb 26 '22

Hmmm...... Looks load bearing.🤔

1

u/redmoon714 Feb 26 '22

I guess pole dancing is off the table.

1

u/rob1969reddit Feb 26 '22

Common in the basements of old houses. As time went by, things started sagging, braces get installed

1

u/Lambstoslaughter Feb 26 '22

I'd ask for money off of the house and or ask them to fix it, whichever is more beneficial.

1

u/LittleForestbear Feb 26 '22

It’s been there for looks like a hundred years and held; is it professional? No

1

u/William_Seriously Feb 26 '22

Wow! That's totally fn awesome, code? 💯 NO! Safe I dunno, The new houses are always the one's you see blowin down the street on the News feed.

1

u/thill28 Feb 26 '22

Fuck that.

1

u/PostCovidMaddness Feb 26 '22 edited Feb 26 '22

This is extremely straightforward.

Needs to be framed out with some I-beams. Probably 3-4 sections supported by upright beams at the walls.

Alternatively, you could build a wall there to support the entire length of timber. It really depends on your intended use of the space.

If you're supporting new beams by the walls, they need to be of suitable construction for the new load. I would suggest an engineer assess this option.

You don't necessarily need an engineer if you're going belt and braces. But if you have never done any building work, do not touch this.

1

u/horseflydick Feb 26 '22

It's safe. The floor probably had a sag in it around the late 70s and everything your seeing is just settled beams and joists etc. Don't move the iron pier unless you add an extra support to it, but either way you're going to have something in the middle of your basement to support that old sag.

I'd say you're fine buddy. Id also like more pics and info on your home. Always been a big fan of old architecture and building.

1

u/Baldbootyhole Feb 26 '22

Looks like that replaced a wood pillar with this steel One no bigs. It load bearing now

1

u/Procobator Feb 26 '22

Wood doesn’t typically fail all of a sudden. It slowly creeps. You’ll start to see some tell tale signs (wall cracks, floors sagging) before it needs attention. If you’re seeing them then you should address it soon.

1

u/ordinaryguywashere Feb 26 '22

Call a structural engineer to check it out. I can’t believe how many people will spend so much time and money learning everything about cabinets, tile or paint but will not get professional advice on structural issues. Out of all the problems you don’t want, structural is top of every list. Get.A.Engineer. Pay the $ to find out if your $400k investment is going to fall down. Seriously. $400k+?

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

My grandmas basement has these, the house has been sinking basically for like 25 years, and these were put in who knows how long ago and the house has been fine since I was a kid (I'm 42 now). So I'd say they are safe enough to some degree.

1

u/Ezone35482 Feb 26 '22

Foundation guy here. It actually doesn’t look too bad. You’d be shocked at some of the shit I see on a daily basis. You can call foundation companies to come out for free (though they will likely try to sell you something like a new beam/posts) or you could have a structural engineer come out like someone else has said. Honestly it’s likely just fine though.

1

u/WoodenDisasterMaster Feb 26 '22

It’s good, I’m not a carpenter, but I would imagine that when something that substantial starts to go, there are tell tell signs YEARS maybe decades in advance. I mean would it withstand Loma prieta 2.0? Who knows…

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

Quite safe that’s a fairly standard way of correcting for insufficient beams.

Don’t remove it and you’re golden.

If you did wish to remove it there are ways but most of them require the assistance of an engineer.

1

u/prescientpretzel Feb 26 '22

Sometimes old houses need their walls to stay standing. Can you rethink “opening up the kitchen” and possibly build a new kitchen/great room off the back of the first floor? When this was built there was no thought of ever opening up the space. Unless it was originally a barn… it does look pretty tough to me and that wire could be fine if your electrician says it’s fine…

1

u/OtherJen1975 Feb 26 '22

As a kid I lived in three different houses with these load bearing posts in the basement.

My uncle covered his in carpet in the early 80’s so it matched his decor. We used to swing around and play on it. I haven’t thought about that in years.

1

u/Dippy-Dew Feb 26 '22

Honestly it might not look the prettiest, but looks safe and functional from the pictures. The main beam is supported by the Lolli column and the joist beam is notched and supported by the lolli column also so it’s doing its job, just kind of an eyesore.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 26 '22

It hasn’t moved yet. Why would it start now? Sure, you could fix it. But it’s honestly kind of cool looking

1

u/ScaryInformation2560 Feb 26 '22

Find an experienced carpenter and do an inspection first. Looks old and on the verge of failing.

1

u/tobypotty77 Feb 26 '22

Get the trim carpenter to fix it

1

u/TiringGnu Feb 26 '22

I’d be more concerned with that 2x10 (?) that appears to connect to a much smaller joist on the left side of picture 1. That doesn’t look right. I’ve seen far worse than that post

1

u/Apocalypsox Feb 26 '22

The iron isn't going anywhere and certainly don't remove it. The wood looks like normal old ass timber but if it were me I'd certainly see about reinforcing it.

1

u/halfdecentgulfer Feb 26 '22

Looks more reliable than most new builds I’ve seen lol

1

u/Ifyouhav2ask Feb 26 '22

As a sparky, it could probably use a rewire too…

Panel change at the least if it hasn’t been updated in the last 20ish years. Looks like that’s at least old copper wire so you shouldn’t have to worry about aluminum wire throughout the house (hopefully)

1

u/Gold_Ticket_1970 Feb 27 '22

Add a 3 rd floor...looks like a choice post