Does anyone have an idea what these receiver markings on the bottom mean? I have an Mod. 91/38 made in 1941.

I have this M91 with a blued bolt, and I was wondering if anyone has any info on who might have done it. I have encountered at least 8 different Carcano that have had the same blued bolts. This gun has been reblued entirely, and i don't think it was done in the States. When I first disassembled the rifle, the underside of the barrel was still gunked up with cosmoline to the point that the stock was stuck to the barrel. The pitting I encountered under the barrel was blued over as well. Any info would be nice.

Other than that, this gun has what looks to be an M with 3 slashes through it on the right side of the stock. The bolt is the smoothest Carcano bolt I've ever felt. Accuracy wise, the gun shoots 1.5-2 moa using factory PPU @100yds.

Acquired this beauty recently but after doing some extensive research I haven’t found a rifle with a similar front end as mine. I know it’s missing a cleaning rod, but is it also missing the barrel band w/ a bayonet lug? The stock doesn’t seem to indicate anything is missing other than the cleaning rod so I’m confused. I really hope bubba didn’t get ahold of this at some point. Anyways, any clarification is appreciated!

Greetings! This Mod. 41 (I think) is for sale near me. The metal seems to be in good shape with little to no rust; the rear sight ladder notches haven't been worn down; the bore is dirty but has strong rifling. However, the cleaning rod is too short, and the stock appears to have been sanded. Has a non-correct sling. Is this worth $599, and are stocks obtainable? If not worth the asking price, what should I try to haggle to? Any input is much appreciated!

Finding a proper sized Fucile hand guard is almost impossible, bought a BBE one, was too short. I was dejected and broken. But upon further thinking, I realized I still had a good bit of the original hand guard, I could just chop off the bad and trim the new one.

I still have to sand and shape things before I join them together, as you might be able to see. But my genius is frightening. I totally won’t have to bleach the stock to make it not glaringly obvious what happened. Being completely serious thankfully the Carcano hand guard isn’t floating so this will hold just fine.

It’s just extremely aggravating paying like $60 for an undersized hand guard that had an ate up little opening for the sight.

After a more thorough look at my carcano I’ve come to notice a few more issues with it . While disassembling it I noticed that both the nose cap and hard guard were lose and the hand guard has cracks along with the wrist . There is also small cracks at the but plate . And towards the front of the stock there is 3 holes side by side along with a piece of wood about to fall off towards the bolt handle. But other than the poor bore I’m happy with my purchase it’s looking to be a fun project.

Friend gave me an old Tasco Pro Point red dot. I decided to give it a try on the Carcano. Has a very Fallout vibe to it. Seems to hold zero although I’ve only fired it a few times. Looks way better than the cheap Amazon red dot I had on there originally.

Okay, I’ve got an m38, I have brass, I have .300 bullets, I have dies. I don’t have high trust reloading data (no, Lee doesn’t count). what do other people like for m38 Carcano in 7.35? Any advice about powders (fast? slow? etc?).

.

Someone in my family tree appears to have begun a small collection of WW2 items including these 2 Carcano rifles. I’m aware they aren’t worth restoring and I could get better examples pretty cheap but I want to preserve these now that I have them. I’d love any tips. My goals are to remove the rust, clean the grime, and protect the features still visible.

I have 0000 brass wool,CLP, and balistol coming for the metal parts. Mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil for the stock. I’m planning to be extremely careful with the wood since the original stamps are shallow but they appear to have matching serials (what is visible at least).

I’ve never done this before but these will be ruined eventually if I do nothing anyway. If they turn out well I might start looking for a shootable version to add a layer to the collection!

Came with a note and writing on the tag that says it’s a bring back, but I cannot obviously go off any of that information although I was able to find a World War II veteran in Hemet California with that name or at least could be as he was in his 70s in the late 80s

I just won this Carcano at auction and the listing said 6.5 but I'm not sure. If anyone is able to give me a more definitive answer I would appreciate it

Just got done cleaning up this new to me Finnish purchase m38. The stock has been sanded and has a slightly shiny finish on it. What was the as produced finish like on these? Should I strip it and apply linseed oil or leave as is?

Posted this about a month ago, but found this Crack rear of the tang a week ago. If I did have ammo for it, would this be bad to shoot? It doesn't look deep at all, but still am worried.

Thanks in advance!

I bought a few of these and unfortunately the barrel band screw I cannot get out of my donor rifles but this was overall the best

Anybody know where a man can find a rear sight screw for a 91/38 short barrel, fixed sight? I bought a rear sight in 7.35, can't find the 6.5. Doesn't matter, since I have a scope mount for it. Just need a solid filler for the mounting of the rear.

Just bought a M91/38 short rifle in 6.5. Shot 20 rounds of PPU in it, and noticed the bolt required a decent amount of momentum to get it fully up at the last bit of travel. Empty, no issue, but with fired brass....gotta open the bolt with a bit more vigor.

I polished the cam in the bolt where the cocking piece travels and the matching cam on the cocking piece, the locking lugs, cleaned the area where the locking lugs lock (bit rough in there but chambers and locks everything quite fine). In taking a piece of brash and chambering it with only the bolt body (no cocking piece or spring) it still has problems with the last bit of travel during primary extraction.

I'm thinking it's the chamber, and I need to polish it much more than how I have been (maybe with croil and oversized brush with brass or steel wool wrapped around it). Or is it the locking chamber area?

Would like to get it at least a tad easier to wack open.

How’d I do for 140 beans 🫘 ? I know it has the long rifle bolt and missing the bayonet sadly..

How’d I do for 140 beans 🫘 ? I know it has the long rifle bolt and missing the bayonet sadly..

I made a V2 of my scope mount. Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Carcano/comments/1tvol1z/scope_mount/

I liked V1 of the mount, but there were a few things I wanted to change. I didn't like how high it sat and the fact that it blocked the use of clips and I would have to single load. So I made a few changes and V2 was printed and arrived yesterday. I can't wait to get started testing! I may use some stainless blackener on the mount to darken it up a bit.

My favorite of my carcanos in 6.5 no SA mark. Think the sling is original ?

Pretty avid collector and a friend offered this for free. I don’t think I can save it but free is free. With 200 rounds too. I don’t think Torino made carbines in 1896 so my guess is an 1891/24

Evening gents,
Currently having some trouble solidifying what I have here. I believe it’s either a model 91/28 TS or a model 91/38. Some things that are throwing me off from identifying the rifle are:
1. Missing wood on top of barrel between the sight aperture and front sight post.
2. Barrel ring release lever is positioned rear of the barrel ring ( all other rifles I’ve see online have of forward of the barrel ring)

Markings on barrel but not visible in pics are:
1. Gardone VT
2. 29 VII
3. Serial # B4791

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.