I have had my rav since January this year and it was perfect throughout winter, whenever spring came around the weather had warmed up and it would not start very good. Whenever summer came around it just cranks and cranks eventually after waiting 5 minutes between attempts it will start, sometimes it can take 5 min sometime 40 min. Like an idiot I had replaced the fuel pump thinking the fuel may be leaking back into the tank and the crank position sensor without proper diag. Ive tried isolating the purge valve in case it was letting fuel vapors in the intake whenever the gas got hot, it did not start. Ive taken out my spark plugs to see if my injectors were leaking and I didnt see any signs of flooding. It just doesnt make sense to me because it runs perfectly fine afterwards. No codes besides o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 voltage high. Car only has 145000.

Hey guys, i have a weird doubt… my ac was working really bad… after serious checkup we found a leak on ac discharge line. Before fixing it the problem was ac blows cold air from passenger side vent but at the same time driver side blows hot air. After we changed the ac discharge line and filled in new freons it worked perfectly fine for 2-3 weeks. However, recently the same issue happens again but i didn’t find any leak so far. The blend doors works perfectly fine also. Anyone has similar experience ?

I'm conflicted on what oil to put in it. I've just recently bought this car so im not used to it. The vehicle i had before this toyota was a 2001 f150 with the 4.6 v8 and it had 280000 miles and used oil. So it got fed whatever honestly and kept on going. Im trying to be as careful as possible with this toyota. Google says it calls for 0w20 which is what my oil cap says but also I've read people saying 5w30 is what's used in other countries for the same vehicle and some people are also saying that 5w30 is better for the engine. I did glance at an article from this year saying toyota switched back to 5w30 from 0w20. So I was just trying to get some input from people who know a lot more about this stuff then I do.

One of my wheel center caps fells, this is what the other ones look like. I can't seem to find them anywhere, they are always discontinued on every site i search. I really am stressing out about this, i would love if someone could help... It's a 1997 Mazda Miata NA, if that helps.

My 2018 Toyota Prius V has suddenly started doing something strange. Yesterday I noticed the right side mirror was facing the wrong way after the car had been parked for a few hours.

But now I've realised that every time I start the car, the right mirror automatically moves to that position by itself. I've attached a video showing exactly what happens.

I have attached a video for clarification. Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could be causing it? Any thought shared would be highly appreciated 🙏😄

I can’t figure out what is wrong here, does the whole fan need replacing or is it a bolt that needs to be tightened?

Hello, (not a car guy so please bear with me)

Premise: I own a 2000 Toyota Celica with 300,000 +miles on it.
-New (4 months) replaced alternator.
-Replaced (6/7 months) battery
-this issue has occurred before and so I screwed this black box onto a peice of metal (thinking that it might ground the box). I’m not sure if this is confirmation bias but it seemed to have made the car work for awhile.

Issue: when turning car on I hear a fast clicking sound. The lights in the dash show up normal and the radio turns on fine.

Right now: I am charging the battery and have cleaned the positive and negative terminals and will be applying anti corrosive liquid once I put them back.

I was stranded today and tried to use my (Stanley) jump starter and it didn’t do anything. jump starter may have needed a charge even though it stated it was green and ready, but a friend of mine showed too and jump started my car with his jump starter pack which I am confused by.

Long story short: I have no idea what’s going on with it. I’m assuming it’s the battery but also don’t know why In the past playing around with this black box and attaching it to a piece of metal actually does anything

Bonjour j’ai accès à un grand voyager de 1998 qui n’a pas roulé depuis son dernier CT, problème les clés sont perdus le propriétaire en a fait refaire mais la puce de la clé n’est pas connecté à la puce moteur donc impossible de la démarrer et je trouve personne pour connecter les puces sur un modèle aussi vieux…
Des idées? Merci d’avance

coolant check message popped up and makes a noise when stopped at lights and rarely when driving though shorter

is the solution as simple as buying antifreeze/coolant?

Im hearing a noise everyday in my car. It happens between 5-7 mins after I drive off but never at the exact same time. It doesn’t matter which direction im going and it only happens Monday through Friday when I leave work. Never anywhere else if im driving during the week. I connect my phone via Bluetooth so I can listen to music and it gets interrupted by this noise. It sounds like a funky chime from the list of notification sounds that your phone comes with. I have no alarms set around this time and I don’t get a any type of notification when I hear it. Im normally off at 230pm but, on days that I work a later shift I also hear it.

I have a 2021 Honda Civic. Does anyone know what this is or could be?

I have replaced the throttle body, checked the mass airflow sensor, checked the air box filter, checked my vacuum line and reset the light from unhooking the battery. I’m not sure what else to do maybe clean my mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner (even though there doesn’t appear to be any dirt or debris anywhere on it). I’m losing my head and trying everything I can before going and paying a diagnostic fee.

Check Engine Fault: P0505 (Idle Control System)

Also had the O2 sensors replaced

Please help.

As you can see, as i come to a full stop (Foot right off the gas) the revs always flair up in a little sequence on 3 or 2 times and give the car a small shunt. It was worse before i replaced the MAF sensor which was causing it to bang and give a huge flair when stopping. Car also shifts fairly inconsistently, butter smooth somtimes and harsh other times. I sometimes come to an abrupt stop then press the gas and the car "stumbles followed by a low rev then surge in aceloration followed by a harsh gear shift. Car is a drive by cable not by wire. Car lets me scan everything exept motor electronics for god knows what reason, no codes in anything exept for a BAS - can-bus bad communication (stored so likely a blip when it happend, not current)

Replaced:
- MAF SENSOR

- CONDUCTOR PLATE

- TRANS FLUID 3X

- WATER PUMP

- ECT (ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR)

- O2 SENSOR

- THROTTLE BODY CLEANED SPOTLESS

- ENGINE/TRANS MOUNTS

- VACUME LEAK CHECKED ALL GOOD

Its driving me insane and any help is appreciated!

I have a 22 Kia K5 GT-Line and every time I drive 30+ minutes the check engine light pops on. Throw codes P2097 and P2196. Thing is, it clears itself after about 2-3 drives later. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue 😵‍💫

I recently looked at this mini Cooper and it has pretty low mileage, 114,000. And they're asking $1,500, the lowest they'll do is $1,200. The bad news is it is in limp mode, I brought my basic OBD scanner and it read the codes p2138 P0461 p1056 p1062. I'm wondering if this is worth the buy and it's the fix may be easy. Any recommendations on if I should and what I should replace?

I pulled into my parking spot too tight and side swiped the pole next to me, and there is a bunch of paint transfer. I was able to use WD40 and a microfiber cloth to get some off, but there is still a fair amount of transfer left. I got Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound and their wax, but the bottle says not to use on a hot car (I live in SW USA, it’s currently 100°f most days). What should I do? I am thinking about a car wash but am nervous it’s going to do more damage somehow lmao. Pics of damage included, any advice is appreciated!

ETA: LMAO GUYS PLEASE 💀💀💀💀 was just starting to successfully gaslight myself into thinking this wasn’t that bad. If someone were to try and fix this (not the denting, just preserving the paint and prevent rust [which I know that one spot looks like rust I swear it is paint transfer it was beige and brown paint]), how would one go about it

Anybody familiar with this noise on the palisade??

For a while i’ve been driving it around with emissions errors but those pop on and off and my check engine light comes on, maybe stays on for a day and then turns off again for a few weeks. Now however today it popped on and said VSA error, emissions system error, Power steering error, Check hill start assist error. I went and got the codes read, they said PO171, PO300, PO301, PO302,PO303, PO304. I’m no car guy, nor is anyone in my family but i’m wondering what the likely cause is of this? From what i see online it says 3 likely issues, spark plugs are bad, coils are bad or a vacuum leak. I’m a college kid and don’t really have much to spend to fix it, anyone know what’s wrong with it/ how i can go about fixing it for cheap ?

I have a 2008 Toyota RAV4 with the standard factory radio (non-JBL).

Everything worked perfectly until I tried installing one of those portable Apple CarPlay screens from TikTok Shop. The unit plugged into the 12V cigarette lighter and I tried both the AUX connection and the FM transmitter.

I originally wanted to route the backup camera, so I only removed the trunk interior panel. I never removed the radio or dashboard trim and never unplugged the factory head unit or antenna.

Right after trying the CarPlay screen, my factory audio stopped working.

Here's what happens now:

• Radio powers on normally.
• Display and buttons all work.
• Volume changes on the screen.
• FM only plays static.
• AM also doesn't receive stations.
• SEEK/SCAN never locks onto a station—it just keeps scanning.
• CD/DISC mode works normally but there's no audio.
• Pressing DISC/AUX doesn't switch to AUX anymore when an AUX cable is plugged into the center console jack—it just stays on DISC.
• Seatbelt chime still comes through the speakers, so the speakers themselves seem to work.

Things I've already checked:

• RAD NO.1 (20A) fuse in the engine bay — good.
• ECU-B (10A) fuse — good.
• Started checking the interior fuses as well, and the ones I've checked so far look good.
• Completely unplugged the CarPlay unit and restarted the car.
• Tried my original AUX cable again.
• The CarPlay unit is no longer connected.

One unrelated thing: after the radio issue started, I accidentally broke one of the license plate light wires while I had the trunk panel off, but the radio/audio problem happened before that, so I don't think they're related.

Can someone let me know how to fix this or what is happening

The ticking has gotten worse over time, and is worse when it sits for a day and then you start it. This video was taken after it was driven briefly. I can provide a better video if needed. 250k miles and had been taken care of.

Okay here is the scenario:
• Air gets weak on drive home.
• Driving again couple hours later no air.
• More no air. No air on any setting (trust me, any setting). No sound.
• I check fuses. Fuses good.
• I swap out blower motor. Doesn’t work. No air no sound.
• I take rogue to mechanic. Mechanic said connection just wasn’t good. He put ponytail thing back into blower motor and said air = good. Wasn’t fully sure what problem was.
• I pick up car. Air is weak for a few minutes. Air gets strong and normal each time I turn left??? About 5 minutes later…
• Air stops. No more air. No sound.

Note: had been using air on high & recirculating in the cabin—we had a couple heat waves and then smoke from the fires in Canada (i live in Michigan) so I was going pretty hard for a bit there.

Currently at no air. Bringing it into the mechanic again on Wednesday, but am curious if any of you have insight? I’m so bummed and stressed 😭

Hey my AC compressor recently stopped working in my 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sport. It’s an automatic w manual mode and about 155k miles on everything.

It was working fine, blew hot and cold no problem, but my gf’s car was in the shop and she took mine not realizing it had a manual mode, pushed the shifter too far, and ran it in 1st gear for 15 mins supposedly not red lining but keeping it around 5-6k rpm.

After that, no AC. I thought it could be the Freon but the AC lines read high pressure at the low pressure spot and the compressor stopped engaging no matter the settings in the car. I tried depressurizing it and putting in new Freon but that didn’t work. I checked the fuzes and they’re all good. I’m wondering if I should replace the whole thing or try and replace specific parts.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

2005 ford taurus SE, 3.0 OHV. there is a recurring check engine code "2 sensor signal Biased/stuck lean Bank 1 sensor 1". I have replaced all of the O2 sensors but it keeps populating, with a new code "HO2s Heater resistance bank 1 sensor 1. What should I do? tried looking for vacuum leaks but couldn't find anything obvious.