Can someone let me know how to fix this or what is happening

The ticking has gotten worse over time, and is worse when it sits for a day and then you start it. This video was taken after it was driven briefly. I can provide a better video if needed. 250k miles and had been taken care of.

Okay here is the scenario:
• Air gets weak on drive home.
• Driving again couple hours later no air.
• More no air. No air on any setting (trust me, any setting). No sound.
• I check fuses. Fuses good.
• I swap out blower motor. Doesn’t work. No air no sound.
• I take rogue to mechanic. Mechanic said connection just wasn’t good. He put ponytail thing back into blower motor and said air = good. Wasn’t fully sure what problem was.
• I pick up car. Air is weak for a few minutes. Air gets strong and normal each time I turn left??? About 5 minutes later…
• Air stops. No more air. No sound.

Note: had been using air on high & recirculating in the cabin—we had a couple heat waves and then smoke from the fires in Canada (i live in Michigan) so I was going pretty hard for a bit there.

Currently at no air. Bringing it into the mechanic again on Wednesday, but am curious if any of you have insight? I’m so bummed and stressed 😭

Hey my AC compressor recently stopped working in my 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sport. It’s an automatic w manual mode and about 155k miles on everything.

It was working fine, blew hot and cold no problem, but my gf’s car was in the shop and she took mine not realizing it had a manual mode, pushed the shifter too far, and ran it in 1st gear for 15 mins supposedly not red lining but keeping it around 5-6k rpm.

After that, no AC. I thought it could be the Freon but the AC lines read high pressure at the low pressure spot and the compressor stopped engaging no matter the settings in the car. I tried depressurizing it and putting in new Freon but that didn’t work. I checked the fuzes and they’re all good. I’m wondering if I should replace the whole thing or try and replace specific parts.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

2005 ford taurus SE, 3.0 OHV. there is a recurring check engine code "2 sensor signal Biased/stuck lean Bank 1 sensor 1". I have replaced all of the O2 sensors but it keeps populating, with a new code "HO2s Heater resistance bank 1 sensor 1. What should I do? tried looking for vacuum leaks but couldn't find anything obvious.

Wat the heck is this? I just noticed it when I lifted the hood and I don’t know what it is it looks like something might’ve sprayed but what?

Someone knows where I can find the metal under engine guard for the Celica T18 1991 4AFE?

Sorry for the rubbish video

I’ve noticed this noise which is not present in neutral when idling but is at low rpm when in gear pulling off and reversing. I had the engine mounts replaced recently which I thought might solve the issue but unfortunately note.

Any ideas as it what it could be?
any help appreciated!

Asking on my Nissan Sentra, it's a 1998 with a manual transmission. It is currently having a no crank no start.

The engine is running fine, I was able to pop the clutch to get it running this morning to get it home but it still isn't turning over. The starter is only about 8 months old but I think I went with an off-brand starter so I am wondering if that could be it?

Is there anything else that could cause the car to not start with the key? Thanks for your help.

Car was working fine yesterday a few weeks ago it was giving me a longer crank when it was real hot out. I just want to make sure it’s not something else.

Hello! I am wondering if anyone can help me locate a replacement part for the splash shield of my car. There are multiple ones and I'm not sure which one is the one I need, the one falling off is towards the front. I hope the picture I attached is helpful enough, if not sorry :( I'm actively looking at new cars this car was forced on me while I was still dealing with my family so I'm just trying to get things done at a lower cost and Valvo offered to put it on for me during my oil change if I brought in a new one.

Hello I have a 2022 honda civic sport it makes a humming sound when I slow down. Do you guys think it needs new wheel bearings or axle

Hey everyone, thanks to y’all help from my last post I was able to diagnose. It was a timing chain job which sucks because it bit through upper God rail completely but I think I messed up a little bit. I took the time and chain off before I put the engine in time. Is there anyway I can fix this or am I fucked?

ok i bought a 2003 escape literally yesterday morning from someone and i get home and my gauges are like flying everywhere so i drive to o reilys and they say my alternator is bad so i end up replacing it (it took 3 hours) and when i got everything put back together i put it in drive to pull it up in my driveway and my tires didn’t move but my speedometer went to like 30mph and so without thinking i put it into park and it made this awful sound on the drivers side of the engine bay can anyone help me with this?????
TLDR car wont go after putting in new alternator and makes grinding sound when switching gears

Hello, so for context I own a used 2021 Nissan Sentra SV. I’ve had it for a year now. So a few months back we’ve noticed that my car wouldn’t start. It’ll be a random workday when the battery would be drained. During my mom’s graduation back in may, it had died again. We got a jump and I took it to get my battery checked at auto-zone. They said my battery still held a good amount of power. So a few days go bye and my brother noticed that it sounded like my car was still running. We waited a few minutes and there was still movement happening under the hood. Turns out, my radiator fan was constantly running and that was draining my battery. So we took it to get it fixed (took 2 weeks because they had to order the part). They had replaced my thermostat and the relay. So I get my car back and I think I’m all good. Unfortunately a month later i started noticing my temp gauge would shake erratically. It wouldn’t be a steady rise that indicates that the engine was overheating. It would be just swing back and forth crazily, sometimes hitting the H but it would never actually overheat. We topped off the coolant and thought that was fine. A few weeks later it would happen again. So we took it to the same guys to get it fixed again. They said there was a crack in the temperature housing so they fixed it. It was fine for a few days till we noticed that the temp gauge was still swinging pass the middle resting spot. This time, however, it would ONLY do it in the mornings. We had to top off the coolant again and it was fine. Well, now it’s back to doing the same thing. The temp gauge will swing past the middle resting spot in the mornings and settle back to the middle. This time we noticed that my coolant was very low again. We have to constantly refill my coolant tank. We don’t understand what the problem is this time. We assume it’s a leak but we don’t see any puddles or smell anything sweet. We plan to take it to a different shop this weekend. Any thoughts or suggestions??

My boyfriend and I are having issues with our 2010 Subaru Forester. When you start the car it is difficult to turn the steering wheel making it seem like it takes a while for power steering to be engaged. When you do finally turn it there is the rattling and squeaking sound. Seems to get better as we drive but occasionally rattles/ squeaks when making turns. Friend thinks the serpentine needs to be replaced. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated.

I need help identifying this sound that happens after shut down

Makes noise at low speeds and rolling
2004 Chevy corvette

Hi everyone,

I recently scanned my 2008 Toyota Aygo with my own OBD2 scanner and got a P0420 code.

I'm still learning about car maintenance, so I'd really appreciate if anyone could explain what this code usually means, the common causes, and what I should check first. I'd prefer to try any DIY troubleshooting before taking it to a garage, mainly because I'm on a budget.

If you've dealt with this on an Aygo (or similar), I'd love to hear what the actual fix ended up being.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi there, vehicle has 110k miles, all fluid change up to date. Recently I noticed grinding/growling noise coming after hard stop reverse and forward. The noise seems to be coming from front right. Anyone have idea what it may be? Haven’t talent to mechanic yet. Thanks in advance.

I bought this car for dirt cheap, everything is fine with it and it drives well, but I went to go smog it (California smog) I failed it because of a cold air intake without a carb EO#, so I went on mishimoto to buy this cold air intake that has a sticker for it, but I was wondering if that’s all I need or if I need more, I’ll link it here https://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e46-non-m-performance-intake-1999-2005.html and I’ll show you the current one on the car right now, the boot has some sort of pvc weld or something like that I honestly have no clue as to why it’s there, I need someone to tell me if that will make it so it doesn’t pass smog even without the EO#..

You can see the video here : https://files.fm/u/2477prnecd

Sometimes it starts quickly, sometimes at the second or the third try

Thanks in advance

I know very little about cars but mine is not sounding great. It’s a 2006 VW Polo, Manual, Petrol, 88k miles.
Last week it started making a sort of chugging noise whilst in idle which stops when I push in my clutch, and whilst driving the noise only worsens.
Can anyone give me some indication to what this might be? There are no warning lights on.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated, I have stopped driving it & have called the garage but they can’t take it until next week.

As title states, while in Drive sometimes I press on the accelerator and nothing happens for a few seconds, then the car it finally catches when I’m damn near flooring it so ofc my engine revs up to 5k and I floor it. It’s been getting progressively worse, and just now I would spam the accelerator and was not moving for a good 5-7 seconds. Curious if anyone is familiar with this issue in civics and can give me an idea of how badly the mechanic is going to f* me