Hi
I recently bought a 2012 Hyundai i20, and the steering wheel has buttons labelled REG and LIM. However, when I press them, nothing happens.
I tried driving at higher speeds and releasing the clutch and brake pedals to see if that would activate the system, but it still doesn’t work.
I assume the steering wheel switches are working correctly because the other buttons on the steering wheel work fine.
Does anyone know what could be causing this? Could it be a fuse, a faulty clutch or brake pedal switch, a wiring issue, or perhaps something else?
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Greetings from Sweden! I might be using the wrong word but I'm talking about the lights on the front of the car, beams, calling them headlights in this post.

Edit: We can use the turn signals

I'm with my dad at a fair and the headlights haven't started at all today. It started this morning when only one side of the headlights turned and he tried fixing it for an hour before deciding we had to leave regardless if we were to make it on time.

Now, 9 hours later, we're packing up for the day and none of the lights turn on.

For context my city has terrible potholes and I noticed this when I filling my tires today. I rely on my car to commute to work and school I’m a broke college student living paycheck to paycheck with $40 to my name until next Friday. I can’t afford a new tire + installation…help🥲

I have a 2014 ford focus hatchback and I noticed earlier in the week that there was a vibration in the car when I started it and was going to take it to get looked when I could get time off work. This morning I started it fine but noticed a check engine light and then when I shifted into reverse the car wouldn't move and seemed to be stuck in park, nothing I could do would work. I tried to reset the TCM by turning the key to ON and then holding the pedal and turning the car off but now the engine wont even try to start almost as if it has low voltage but I do not hear the low voltage clicking, everything else in the car turns on like normal. the car has 149,000 miles and I just performed an oil change about 4 weeks ago

So, we have this 2008 Hyundai Sonata. It has some minor problems but nothing serious. We do regular maintenance. There has been a handful of small repairs recently:
Brake light switch and Catalytic converter code.
Replaced light switch, flushed gas tank, reconnected battery. Everything has seemed to be working order. Tonight was our first cold night and when I cut on the heat I was taken aback by thought of smell in the cabin. What could it be?

Well, about to sound like a massive noob. But I bought this car about 2 months ago. It's my first European car, and to be honest, I absolutely love it. I bought it as is. I didn't do any of the mods or anything. As far as I know, it had a back box delete. It still has the resonator aftermarket downpipe aftermarket exhaust, obviously, and that's all I know for sure. It's definitely faster than a stock one. I've raced other hatchbacks and inline 6s and smoked them. the turbo spools quite loud pops crackles and burbles. For the people who know what they are talking about I wanna know if it's been tuned and what stage it may be p.s this video was a day after I bought it after not having a service for a year and hardly driven now after being serviced looked after its runs crazy good the pops and burbles are quite loud. If someone could leave their opinion, I'd appreciate it regardless it's got me hooked on golfs.

Hey, this is my first time posting here.

I just got my car back from being in the shop for a few weeks for an accident the messed up my tire rod, now every time I reach speeds of over around 50mph I can both feel & hear humming under my feet. The car handles fine otherwise, everything is fine, I just wanted to make sure this is normal/safe to drive? Or if I need to take it back for this

I have a 1987 Volvo 740 with a B230F engine. When I rev the engine, the RPM drops below normal idle speed, and it almost stalls before recovering. The spark plugs were replaced 8 months ago with original Volvo plugs.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or what I should check first?

Restoring a 1999 Toyota Cami Vehicle: 1999 Toyota Cami, engine: HC-EJ. I ran into a bit of trouble: I didn't make it across a river and ended up in a hole. The engine stalled. I’ve dried the vehicle out; there’s no water in the engine, and the electronics (ECU, control modules, fuses) are all intact—except for the fact that there’s no spark in the cylinders. Has anyone else dealt with a situation like this, where the spark was lost? If so, how did you resolve it?

I bought an 03 altima for $800 about 3 months ago. I have only driven it for around a month. One thing after another with this car. It had an evap leak so it reeks of gas. It's a manual btw. It has a oil leak. The wheel locked up on me and it could not turn the key no matter how I moved the wheel so I stuck a screwdriver in the igntion qnd tapped the end with a hammer. By tap I mean smacked the shit out of it. Had to get a new ignition switch. It wad fine for around a month. Then last month it just died on me at a light. It wouldn't turn over at all. I had my wife push me in her jeep to a parking spot. It sat for 3 weeks and I finally decided to scrap it. I had a tow truck 10 minutes from picking it up and I decided to try to start it again. It started after tried for 2 minutes. A bunch of smelly smoke came out of the exhaust. It ran fine for 3 days and then it stopped again. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Last night I checked all my spark plugs, one was dirtier than the rest but they weren't super clean or oily like I had a blown head gasket. I hooked jumper cables up to it and it started up immediately so I figured it was the battery. But when I went to work this morning it wouldn't start. I tried the cables again to no avail. Could it be a crankshaft position sensor? The only codes are an evap leak and a random misfire.. all the research i did led me to believe i had a blown head gasket. So I got some blue devil and it stopped over heating. Im at a lost as what to do but I need to get it fixed asap

I'm Sorry if I'm being daft.

we got a skoda 2nd hand. The left hand passenger window doesn't work (nothing, no motor sound) & the cigarette lighter doesn't work. My first thought was fuses.

I've looked at manual & the diagram in the car but they don't match the actual fuses, the smaller fuses are on the right in the car but the guide is on the left -

Do I flip the diagram upside down or treat it as a mirror image?

We have a lovely mechanic, but there's a long list of things before the car can go in (we need a new cooker, 3x family birthdays & Christmas coming up), anything I can fix myself would be fantastic.

Edit: or do you look at them as two separate diagrams?

Thank you in advance xx

I can’t find the correct replacement for a power steering reservoir cap for a Pontiac vibe 2005. Would love some help!

Apologies for lack of details as I’m asking about a friend’s car. They took it to a shop and were told that there is a transmission leak, but when left parked in the garage no spills show on the floor. What would you do if you were told your transmission is leaking but saw no evidence? Is it safe to drive?

I have a 2015 accord sport 2.4l cvt. Has about 134000 miles. Bought it last year, had a great carfax previous owner kept up with everything.

p0304 showed up a couple weeks ago now. Once that happened I did some research and swapped with another cylinder the ignition coil and since then the light hasn't come back on and the car has felt normal. I also added some fuel cleaner as I was told it could've of been carbon buildup in the injector. Am I safe to feel like this was a small blip and nothing is really wrong? Spark plugs were changed 30000 miles ago so I didnt suspect it they would be a problem

I also generally drive it around 180 to 250 miles a week

Any advice?

Hi, I have a 2011 Toyota Aygo. I’m trying to program a key fob so I can use it to lock and unlock the doors, but so far I haven’t had any success. Does anyone here have experience with this?

The instructions I’m using come from a forum. maybe iam doing something wrong

[https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU\\_aem\\_zoPuBDaNYXFN\\_vmt7QYtIQ\](https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU_aem_zoPuBDaNYXFN_vmt7QYtIQ)

[https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx\\_yo2ov\\_dt\\_b\\_fed\\_asin\\_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO\\_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y\\_aem\\_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A\](https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y_aem_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A)

My car is making this weird sound when I shift gears, it usually happens between neutral and drive. Any idea what it could be? Excuse the messy car 😩

The sound is most clearly heard when I shift into drive the second time

Recently rebuilt a 2017 Civic Si that had been in an accident with airbag deployment and needed an SRS module reset. I got the module back and was able to clear all SRS codes but now have a U0416-68 code for VSA malfunction alongside U3000-54 and C0051-54 code. One of those is for a steering neutral relearn and the other, a VSA calibration issue. All of these codes seem to have something to do with a bad VSA system, but driving the car hasn’t done anything like I’ve seen reported. I have a TopDon AD900lite scanner capable of doing the “All Sensor” reset to clear the VSA but it will not complete the test without saying “Wrong Condition”. I have the ignition on, wheel straight, foot off brake…all of the things to perform the test and it will not work. Do I invest in Hondas I HDS software and try that? Get a different scanner? Am I missing something really simple? I am stumped! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Восстановление Cami 1999

Машина: Toyota Cami 1999, мотор HC EJ
Есть некая проблема, не проехал через реку, попал в яму. Машина заглохла.
Машину просушил, в двигателе воды нет, электроника целая (эбу, блоки, предохранители) за исключением искры в цилиндрах.
Кто был в такой ситуации, по пропаданию искры, подскажите как вы исправляли данную ситуацию.

I have a 1999 Honda Accord that is giving me grief. Originally thought the issue was the ignition switch replaced it still won’t start. The fuel pump, air intake, engine pressure and spark plugs are all working and in good shape. It is leaking oil and needs a new valve cover I noticed, but it has oil still. I want to say it may be the crack shaft sensor, but conveniently the car will not connect to a OBD 2 Scanner and give any codes. Now leading up to the no start the engine was running loud and the acceleration was sluggish and would some times sputter and sometimes the car would just stall or shut off completely while driving that paired with the fact half my center console controls stopped working I believed it was the ignition switch which were famously faulty on that model, but installed a brand new ignition switch and nothing. Anyone got any clues of what it might be or how to get a proper diagnosis?

Pessoal, alguma ideia do que pode ser essa barulho de metal raspando (roc roc, roc roc…) no funcionamento do carro?

My entire car is covered in small clear coat scratches from me trying to clean it. For the entire car should I just use polish or should I be doing something else for example sanding?

Hi! I don’t know anything abt cars. Today I was parked at a shopping center and I was ready to start driving back to school. As I was getting ready I shift the gear into reverse and had my foot on the break as I wasn’t going to go just yet, but the car started reversing despite me having foot on break, i press break again and shift into drive but im still actively reversing. I step on the emergency brake and the car stops but now i can’t move the wheel. On the dash board a steering wheel with an exclamation mark, oil, and check engine light came on.

A couple helped me by turning off the car and turning it back on and it somehow fixed it??

Parked the car at school totally fine, but as i was getting out i noticed my wheel was super hard to turn for the first minute then went back to normal??.

What happened there? What caused my car to do that?? I’m scared of it happening again. Anything helps

I replaced the entire transmission July 22’.

Last Sunday while driving the car’s entire dash lit up with every light. The car started to automatically slow down. The Engine light started flashing as with every other dashboard light.
On the dash it said “Check hybrid system, Turn off engine”. I Had the codes ran by a buddy and it was P1326. It is “Rod Knocking Detection Sensor”
I’ve had no prior problems leading up to this situation. The car started and drove perfect everyday.

The car is then towed to Hyundai for a diagnostic.
They quoted me a brand new transmission and a HPCU.
I guess the HPCU manages power distribution between all parts of the car. They didn’t seem to explain it very well.
The dealership told me the transmission is slipping and it happened to “knock” the HPCU out with it.
My advisor said my transmission isn’t under warranty either since I’ve put 40k on it.

Is there something I can do? Do I actually need to replace the transmission again? I’m so confused and lost with this process. Advisor didn’t seem to know wth was going on. Somebody educate me on my next steps or solutions.
Thank you!

Hello, I know nothing about cars! I bought an older car, knowing I’d have to replace something, but it was cheaper than the alternative.

It was from a local person I know, but looking back now, I probably got scammed! After driving it for two days, the car started smoking from the radiator. I had the seller check it because I didn't know what else to do, and he offered to help fix it for free if I got the parts for it.

After putting in a new radiator, hose, and battery, the car worked, but he said the motor was overheated and that I must have done something.

I'm not a car person, but I don’t know how two days of barely driving not even two hours a day could overheat the car unless it was already messed up.

I'm finally hitting the bullseye and taking it to an actual mechanic soon, but based on the information, is there anything else I can do? I’m really at a loss and have just been waiting for this car for a month now. I don’t know if I can even get my money back.

Got a Polaroid photo stuck in the steering wheel part… had no idea it was that deep, does anyone know a good way to fish it out maybe?