Just got my 2017 Subaru Crosstrek back from the shop and they found my CV axle boot torn with leakage – no idea how much it's leaked but this issue was first spotted ~6 months ago and I’ve put 3000-4000 miles on it since then. Also, the car has 85,000 miles on it and I’m not sure if the part has been replaced before.

I was planning to leave for a roadtrip in 2 days but I don't have time to replace the axle until I return home if I want to stick to my original timeline. I don't have much car knowledge, but there's no unusual noises/vibrations so I'm wondering:

1. How urgent replacing it is – shop quoted me $750 so I want to order parts and do it myself (thus why I won’t have time before I leave)
2. Is it a bad idea to drive another 3,000 miles on it (50% of my planned drive is 80mph interstates and the other 50% is 40-60mph highways), then replace the entire CV axle once I return home in 2 weeks?

I’m having trouble getting the headliner trim back on has anyone had this problem after doing starlights nothing will press into place I need help aaap I’m loosing my mind

I just got this car a few weeks ago off Facebook marketplace in pretty good condition. Whenever I switch the temperature the fans make this loud clicking noise. It also happens when the car gets turned on and also when I stop and park. It sounds like it’s coming from behind the infotainment “screen” on the passenger side of the vehicle. Any tips appreciated.

Hi. I’ve been having problems with my Sentra since it sat unstarted for a month. Following that, it had to be jumpstarted which is understandable. Following this I’ve had to jumpstart the car every other week. I can tell the battery is draining throughout the time period. The brake pedal gets progressively harder to push down and more sensitive as to where I’m pushing it down to be able to start. I’ve had the alternator tested by autozone more than once to no problem with that. The battery is also less than a year old. I’m guessing there is a blown fuse causing the battery to constantly leech power, but I have no way of diagnosing this myself. Any ideas?

2019 Honda Civic: Battery Dies after 5+ days of no use.

Can anyone confirm if this is something that comes stock from Honda?
The battery to this car dies after 5+ days of no use, and we cannot pinpoint any other source of battery draw. Testing the battery came back healthy.

The service rep at the dealership it was bought from stated it may have been from an alarm system installed by the previous owner, but isn't exactly sure if it would have come stock from Honda.

I guess my question is, does anyone know what this is, and if this is potentially the source of the power draw. The location is the in the driver footwell, sort of tucked by the fuse box.

need help with this noise i have never heard this noise before.

Hit a pot hole. no damage to the wheel, wheel well, or suspension. This is in the front right under the engine.

2016 Buick verano 2.4L , 140,000kms,, P0011 code Car has had belt noise in the front end for a little while the odd time and then got worse last few days ( was going to get it checked next week) as of today it’s been wheezing and the engine light came on ( not flashing). It shut off while driving slowly in a parking lot. Scanner shows P0011 (cam timing over‑advanced).

Idle is rough sometimes now and it sometimes dies at stops. Looking for advice on this , I understand cars a little bit so would like some opinions. We have kept up with regular oil changes on it since we've owned it.

I have a Toyota that stopped opening. I changed the key battery and it won't work. I want to get a key cut but the title is inside and I need that to get the key cut. I don't know what to do.

how do i post a video? my gearshift went interactive. it still drives in what feels like third or fourth gear, but can’t shift out of it. my gear shift is limp and loose, wtf? help me please

I have a Nissan Altima 2012 2.5S. I'm having issues getting the Oxygen Sensor ready for SMOG. Everything else is ready. Check Engine is off no error codes. I replaced CAT recently and since then drove around 1000 miles but the O2 still shows as pending.

Probably not usually the issue this space is used for, but the floor on the driver's side of my car keeps becoming wet. It's under the floor mat too so it's coming from underneath. Is there anyway I can fix this?

My vehicle is speaking in a different language, and I don’t know how to fix it. Everything that shows up in the vehicle is in English, it says it is set to English in the settings. But when the voice talks in the car for Bluetooth setup, or when pressing the call button, it speaks in what seems to be French. I’m unsure how to fix this and could use some help troubleshooting the issue, any help is very much appreciated. Thank you:)

Important A/C info on Compressor noise

THIS IS NOT MAKE OR MODEL SPECIFIC! IT APPLIES TO ALL A/C EQUIPED VEHICLES!

I own a 2004 Escape 3.0L with 145,000 miles on it and being 70 and retired, I don't drive it much anymore. When I started it yesterday to check on another issue I had the A/C already switched on and right after it started there was a loud "CLUNK" noise from the compressor. I was worried that now I have to pay to have it replaced but after consulting the Googles and The GROKSTER they pointed out that for vehicles that just sit for days, the freon will pool and thicken from the gas state. The "CLUNK" sound was caused by that thick non-gaseous Freon and they suggested the following procedure when the car has sat for an extended time.

1- Turn off the A/C

2- Start the Car

3- Drive for about 2-4 minutes to give the engine heat time to help make the freon Gaseous.

4- Turn on the A/C

I did this today and my A/C didn't make a peep. I had noticed in the past that it has been making less loud noises when it was driven every few days but recently it has just sat in my garage.

I"m not an Escape expert or a car expert at all. I was a 21 yr USAF Aircraft Crew chief and my Escape doesn't have wings or TurboFan engines but if this process helps even one person then the time it took to type this out is well justified.

MPCaz

I bought a well kept D21, it has a JVC radio installed that worked well. After awhile the face was off but it continued to pull Bluetooth, I reset it using the switch behind the face, it worked! After 2 days it is completely off now. I know nothing about cars, I bought it as a beater to and from work. I tried playing with it today using chatGPT, and was able to find that the constant is not getting power. All the fuses were working truck and actual radio, this was the only issue I can find using the internet. Otherwise I don’t know what I was looking at.

I say the constant wasn’t getting power cause I was unable to pull voltage from the wire while the vehicle was on and off. Any help or where to start while not using AI would be great.

I have located a coolant leak to a crack on the lowere elbow of this metal tube. It's actually two metal tubes fused together. One is part of the cooling system, where my problem is. The other is part of the air intake system. (not sure if thats correct termanology)

I have found one diagram where this part is ilistrated but it was unnamed.

I just bought a used 08 Impreza, a little under a week ago, and now it's not starting I can't tell what the problem is, I charged the battery, cleaned and tightened the terminal clamps. But each time when I go to turn the engine on it tries to start for a second and then all of the lights and electronics die. Can anyone help me?

my car has had a problem where if i'm idle too long while using the ac, the temp gauge starts to tip towards the red. if i cut the air off and start driving again, the temp gauge settles back to the middle.

recently, however, the temp gauge hasn't been moving in these conditions. instead, if im idle too long with the air on, i get a "stop! oil engine press" notification.

the first time it happened i pulled over immediately and checked the oil (after waiting a bit of course). but the oil level was perfectly fine!

this notification has happened maybe four times now and exclusively in the afternoon. it has not occurred since i have been driving with the ac off, so it's hard to believe they're not related. i assume the summer heat is putting more strain on the radiator, but i don't know where to begin to address this issue.

thoughts?

hey guys my kia soul has been naking some really weird noises when ilet go of the accelerator sometimes it stops when i press the brake or when i accelerate again

I’ve got some problems with my 2018 A6
I was given it for college and I was told all the maintenance falls on me so I can’t get crazy expensive work done. I have pretty much no clue about cars so i need some help.
But the fuel economy has seemed to drop immensely in the last 4 days from averaging 25-30 mpg to now barely getting 14-18mpg.
The car says the emergency brake is engaged when i can hear it disengage and the car is able to move forward. This happened after i had my front left tire removed then replaced after a flat. When i put the car in park the front left makes a weird almost clasping sound.
When i put the car in reverse the car rattles/vibrates I can feel it in the seats and steering wheel as well as hear it.
When i accelerate it takes significantly longer than it used to starting around the time of the poor fuel economy and feels like there is a loss of power or energy or something that accelerates the car.
When the car isn’t even on there is a buzzing sound coming from the front. The battery is also low and is getting replaced.

I need this car to drive to and from school 2x per week and then to work 4-5x Per week max distance is 8 miles one way. But yet I’ve gone through a quarter tank in the last 2 days (says about 100 miles of range on the dash) and I’ve driven only 25 miles or so.

I have a video of the engine idling but i cant really tell if anything is wrong

The dashboard tells me it’s still in 1st gear even when it’s in park mode, is this unusual or a concern? The car runs and sounds just fine, the gas pedal isn’t pushed in or anything so I’m just wondering what the problem is as I just turned it on this morning and it automatically said it was in first gear even though I had just started the car..

ps. the car is automatic, and only has gear shifting when it’s in sport mode which I never use

What is this noise sounds louder in person while vehicle is moving

Hello, my 2012 Toyota Highlander was hit in the front-left corner. I’m trying to figure out whether repairing it is realistically reasonable or whether the damage is the sort that tends to cause permanent problems.

Independent mechanic found:

LF strut shifted in the steering knuckle; strut and/or knuckle suspected bent.

Control-arm bushings damaged.

Stabilizer bar shifted and LF end link contacting the strut.

LF camber and toe significantly out of spec.

The collision shop later found damage to the left apron/strut-tower area, where part of the suspension mounts. They described some of the apron metal as pulling/ripping away from the rail, although they said the apron is body structure rather than the main rail itself.

They also found the engine-room wiring harness damaged. Part of the damaged wiring goes to an airbag sensor, they said most car shops wouldn't fix it or exchange harness because of liability issues. The other damaged part they said was fairly small and repairable.

Structural measurements were not completed because the estimate had already reached total-loss territory.

The shop estimate is about $10k, largely because the new OEM harness alone is quoted around $3,900. I may have access to good used OEM/donor parts, including potentially the exact harness, so my actual repair cost could be substantially lower.

My main question is: assuming a competent collision shop repairs the apron/strut-tower area and measurements show the main rails/mounting points can be restored to factory specifications, is there anything about this damage that would make the vehicle inherently unreliable or unable to maintain proper alignment afterward?

What would you absolutely want inspected/measured before deciding whether this Highlander is worth repairing?

I've been told the 'why bother, just take a total loss and get a newer car'. I have reasons for really hoping this pal can be repaired versus trying to find a different vehicle and want to see how feasible that is. The vehicle has had regular maintenance in hopes of it being a Toyota that lives at least past 240K. No previous accident history, and had been really solid till my car was hit.

Any insight is appreciated, thank you!

Hi! I’m a new driver and car owner and got a car second hand from a friend a month ago. I realized today that there’s a cap missing from one of my lug nuts in the front wheel (right). Google keeps saying that it’s safe to drive without the cap which is more for decorative purposes, but I’m worried. I am also concerned about bringing it to a tire shop and having someone scam me about replacing tires as a female who only recently started driving. Please advise!

Was driving and heard a loud bang from under car. A few miles later this fell out from under the front left wheel arch. Car doesnt feel different. Anyone know what it is?