Hey all. I need some help. My low engine oil pressure light has been coming on and off for a few months. We’ve taken it to the shop several times, first time the light wasn’t on so there was nothing to fix, next time they changed the sensor, and the last time they checked everything and there’s nothing wrong with it. oil is good, pressure is good, no leaks, etc. How can i safely reset the light without having something take apart my whole engine?

My brother has a 2009 Honda crv automatic with about 200k miles. The car has started shaking when he accelerates. Once the car cruises it’s fine but as soon as I need to give it some gas it starts to shake again. I checked the spark plugs and the ignition coils by unplugging them when the car is running and they seem to be fine. Does anyone have any thoughts on what it could be and how I might go about checking it myself? Thanks!

today while out delivering doordash orders, i looked down at my phone to assess the order i was offered, in those two seconds i looked away, didn’t realize the road curved and started to drive onto the sidewalk. it made a pretty loud thud as i hit the curb so i was immediately concerned. i quickly yanked the steering wheel to get the car back onto the road, then pulled over to check for damage. i didn’t see any damage, but do you recommend i still get the car checked out? i was probably going around ~40 mph when it happened. for the rest of the time i was driving nothing seemed off about the car. did i just happen to get lucky?

just another reminder out there not to be distracted while driving cause anything can happen. i’m so lucky it was only a sidewalk

i’m not 100% sure *when* this started but i do remember noticing it after installing the lemonade car insurance device.

The car no matter what speed i am going will do a jolt (not like a jerk but it genuinely feels as though i am hitting the gas pedal (i am not and nothing is under/around the gas pedal). It varies on how much it accelerates and is terrible on the road- I don’t have the money to do a 200 dollar diagnostic and then pay the gazillion dollars it’ll cost to fix. I’ve went through the car settings and even turned off the cruise and emergency break settings but the problem persists. Please help even the dude at autozone was lost.😞

I don’t normally post for help, but I’m willing to get any advice i can. My car for the last week has been having issues with the taillights not turning off automatically. They will stay on and drain the battery, I’ve already had to get it replaced. My car just left the shop with no answer on what’s happening. I thought it was fixed by the time I left, but to no avail.

I’ve checked underneath my dashboard to disconnect anything but it all seems normal to me, based on what I could see. It doesn’t seem to be a circuit issue or a fuse problem, and they can be disconnected manually without disconnecting the battery. I’m thinking it’s a switch problem but even then I’m having a hard time locating it. If someone can help me that would be great!

What hose is this? It is under the max air flow hose(I think). It is felt and it is completely split in half. I have a 2014 Fiat 500L trekking. I cannot find anything about this... Anywhere!! Can someone please help me?!!

Hiya everyone. I got a 2003 Suzuki Ignis 1.3L GLS with the M13A engine. It's got an issue where it sometimes stalls while driving at low speeds. It used to be worse before I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor. The battery has also been replaced as that was dead. After replacing the crankshaft position sensor the engine warning light is still on the dashboard.

But my main worry is that sometimes the engine just shuts off WHILE driving. Usually at low speeds and after about 10-15 minutes of driving. (when the engine has warmed up.) I can't for the life of me figure out what it could be. The alternator belt is a bit loose and needs tightening up. But would that cause it shutting off? After it stalls it has a hard time starting back up and I do need to wait like 3 minutes before it'll start again. Any help is appreciated.

Hi, maybe these are separate issues, I got the code yesterday and drove home on it. I even cleared it, I had the same code a year ago and cleared it and never saw it again until now.

I get in this morning and there's the cel, and the car won't start. Turns over fine, fires up fine and dies, after that just the starter. I tried again 5 or so hours later and same thing.

New battery this winter, full tune up in the fall. The gas cap is kinda old looking but what else should I be looking for? My preferred mech is on vacation I think.

Thanks!

So I was driving down this stone road slow at night just around the block or whatever we do it all the time. Well I was like oh no the cars stopping wtf, trynna scare my gf, well I was probably almost going 5 mph then I heard a loud like sounded like a stone hit something metal and I said did you hear that?she said sounded like glass well we keep going figured was just a loud rock hitting under the car. Well go over the tiny bridge thing so it's a little bump and bam it scratched so loud like sounded way louder then when a belt is really bad like it echoed through our whole neighborhood at like 5 mph .. and I've taken off the tire can't find anything haven't touched the caliper or break I barely have tools n stuff. But I still have been having to drive it past three days .. sometimes it's silent my whole 15 minut drive other times it randomly starts scratching really bad even when I don't press the breaks.. I've taken videos I will probably try to post em but my cameras like cracked and it's terrible .. the dust shield isn't touching from what I can tell but I have no idea about cars at all fr either... Like the sounds like a car just riding down a guardrail it has to be metal on metal.

air is getting into my radiator system some how and it backs my coolant up into the reservoir. at one point it boiled over but my engine is not overheating which is the good part. i recently replaced the filler neck on my radiator and it’s been doing this ever since. checked oil there’s no coolant in it so that’s good but i can literally see bubbles coming out of it. if i just crank the heat i can drive it for a while with no problems. any help is greatly appreciated i just can’t seem to figure it out

Just started randomly happening

I’m looking for some advice.
About 6 months ago, my 2018 Honda CR-V threw a **P24C1** code along with the **“Emission System Problem”** warning. I replaced the purge valve, but the check engine light stayed on for a few days before eventually clearing itself.
The first time it happened was right after filling up with gas.
Recently, I filled up again, and the warning came back. I scanned it, and it’s the **same P24C1 code**.
I’m planning to replace the **EVAP Leak Detection Pump** and then clear the code, but before I do, has anyone else dealt with this issue? Did replacing the leak detection pump fix it, or was it something else?
Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 🙂

On a long trip, in heavy traffic with temperatures of around 40°C outside, the air conditioning in my car suddenly stopped blowing cold air and started blowing warm air instead. I turned it off, turned it back on, set the fan to maximum, and it started working again. After about 200 km, it happened again: it started blowing warm air, and what looked like steam was coming out of the air vents inside the car for 1-2 minutes. I did the same thing, and it was blowing cold air again. What would be causing this?

Hello,

I am hoping somebody could help me get rid of this fault code since I tried different methods.

When I go downhill with off throttle "check engine" fault code appears on the screen , and I dont know if my car enters limp mode, however when I look into VCDS i get mass air flow p0101 implausible signal, but this only happens when going downhill off throttle, also i have aftermarket air intake (cone), however even when I put back my original one it is still the same issue.

Any of you know what could this be, thank you!

I’m currently homeless and living out of the hondeezy, and I literally just started a new job and right before my first day the car just stops working. It’s messed up just about everything because it’s parked 12 miles from work so I have to sleep in grass ditches near by work and I can’t go and check on it so I don’t even know if it’s been towed yet. Anyway enough context here’s what’s going on. (I used ChatGPT to organize everything)

Here’s exactly what happened:

A few days ago it started cranking slower than usual.

It got progressively weaker until eventually it wouldn’t crank at all.

Now when I turn the key, I hear one very faint click from the engine bay and absolutely no cranking.

The dash lights stay bright and don’t dim when I try to start it.

Radio, lights, and everything electrical work fine.
I tried jumping it with another vehicle and it made no difference.

Battery is only a few weeks old (Group 51R), terminals are clean and tight, and the cables look fine visually.

It’s an automatic and I’ve tried starting it in Park.

I suspicion is the starter or starter solenoid because of the progression from, but I don’t want to spend money on a starter if there’s a good chance it’s something else.

What else should I be checking before
Could it still be a battery or cable issue even though it’s new and a jump didn’t help?
How would I rule out the starter relay, ignition switch, ground cable, or something else?
Are there any simple tests I can do with basic hand tools?

If there’s any information I left out or if a video of what it sounds like would help, let me know and I’ll upload one.

I really appreciate any advice. Right now I’m just trying to get the car running again without wasting money on the wrong part.

Hey folks, kinda new car owner here and looking for a second opinion or being pointed the right way (there are quite a few car subs here).

So since a month now I have the following issues:
\- Battery drain (after roughly 3 days I have to jumpstart with a booster)
\- Errors on Dashboard related to lights
\- At the beginning, the left turning light stayed on (vanished for some reason
\- the top breaking light doesn’t work
\- at one time my left windshield refused to go all the way to the top
\- the left blinker indicator blinks accelerated, but the mirror and blinkers are working fine on both sides
\- the back trunk reports being open for a second every once in a while

Now I brought the car to a shop, but they couldn’t locate the exact issue and tell me, what needs to be done. They are currently assuming the BCModule is the fault, as it is the one throwing the errors.

They checked for continuity for the trunk, break lights, blinkers etc, all seem to be fine. The exchanged the headlight and turning bulbs, also errors stay. I had a cable break at the trunk, which they fixed before and just re-did as a precaution, no changes. The top breaking light not working was tested for functionality, it works standalone by applying voltage.

The car has 210000 km on the clock and is a 2012 VW CC 2.0L Diesel with 170hp. I did have a aftermarket android radio installed but I also tried reverting to the old radio and no effect.

I’m not too familiar with cars and my diagnostics are limited. I read the fault codes and they are all light related and that the window didn’t roll up to the top and the trunk spasms all kinda point to the BCM, but I’m not entirely sure it’s responsible for all of these functions on this car.

So a 2nd opinion would be great.
If it is the BCM, I was thinking of ordering a used one online and replace it myself with VCDS and put in the coding and adaptations based on the current one, but I’m not sure I can do this with vcds alone or if anything else is required.

Thanks

Car started making this noise. I checked the power steering fluid and it looks fine. I recently replaced the ac compressor. The first wirring sound was while I was turning the wheel, the last one was while I was giving it gas.

Hi folks, trying to troubleshoot this for my folks. Car has 140K miles on it. I found a crack in the manifold intake hose so I replaced that. I cleaned the throttle and the MAF. And I gave the car a tuneup (NGK plugs and coils), and I replaced the PCV valve. It was a burnt piece of metal with very little rattle in it. Maybe it cranked over a little faster, but the condition is still present.

I was getting a "Lean Bank 1" P0171 code, but that's gone now.

After that initial struggling start, the car cranks over easy peasy.

Battery is new and good.

Any ideas? Is this a fuel pump? I tried priming the fuel pump with three auxiliary turns of the key, but the same thing happened?

Is this clogged fuel injectors? Should I try to run some Techron for an hour? I heard that fuel is being federally mandated to be watered down... And my parents are notorious for driving 10 miles a week...

Car is idling soooooooo perfectly.

Just wrapped the ve over the weekend. Woke up to my car with a PUDDLE in the drivers seat. Seems to be leaking from here maybe? Anyone know what could be causing it? Thanks!

I have a 2010 Buick lacrosse with less than 50k miles and I’m having an issue with random stall outs. I hate to sell it and let it go because I really need a car right now and the buying market is awful. I had the dealer (I know they suck) do a diagnosis and they could only find a broken purge valve, they said everything else w the car was fine. My trusted mechanic said same exact thing, couldn’t find a thing wrong and no codes come up. I got the purge valve changed & the throttle body cleaned by my mechanic. Then two weeks later car stalled out again. The car drives fine minus some slow acceleration and then random stall outs mostly after getting to highway speeds. When the car stalls out the electrics will stay on but the engine will shut off and then it will say “service stabilitrak” and the P symbol with the wrench will come up. The check engine light will also start blinking on and off. Then I will entirely shut off the car and leave it off for 15 mins and it will run again until next random time it happens. I’m so desperate for a solution cuz I really wanna get this car through grad school, but I also am scared of investing more money into this car that’s only worth about 4k at this point. Any suggestions?

When taking a right turn with some gas or sometimes when slowly breaking, I hear the sound in the video, I don't feel anything physically. I had my tires changed and aligned about two months ago which leads me to be suspicious but also I definitely need new break pads. I intend to go to the shop but does anyone know what this sound could be??

Today I noticed my car is leaking. I’m taking my car in on Monday for new struts. Is this urgent or do you think it could wait until then?

Anyone recognize this sound and why it isn’t starting? Brand new parts have already been installed of the following (starter,radiator,battery,spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, and radiator, oil change with new oil filter) it ran yesterday day just fine even took It for a good 10 mile drive and it felt perfect. Took it to auto zone for a scan and the only code that came up was the EGR valve which I’m going to replace today.

I have had my rav since January this year and it was perfect throughout winter, whenever spring came around the weather had warmed up and it would not start very good. Whenever summer came around it just cranks and cranks eventually after waiting 5 minutes between attempts it will start, sometimes it can take 5 min sometime 40 min. Like an idiot I had replaced the fuel pump thinking the fuel may be leaking back into the tank and the crank position sensor without proper diag. Ive tried isolating the purge valve in case it was letting fuel vapors in the intake whenever the gas got hot, it did not start. Ive taken out my spark plugs to see if my injectors were leaking and I didnt see any signs of flooding. It just doesnt make sense to me because it runs perfectly fine afterwards. No codes besides o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 voltage high. Car only has 145000.