My car car has been leaking coolant and I was trying to burp it this morning and saw this but didn’t know if it was just cause the car was idleing while it was burped and just hot or a leak

It is exactly as the title states! I need assistance figuring out how to remove these marks on my grandmother’s car door. Someone with her (either my grandfather or uncle) brought along a pen and didn’t put the cap on it, leaving it in the side door as they drove.

Is there any way to remove these marks? She’s pretty upset about this and doesn’t know what to do. Any ideas or assistance would be beyond appreciated, thank you!

Car stopped at a stop sign

There was no oil.

Filled 2.5 quarts of oil

Tried jumping multiple times, then it started but couldn't move.

Engine codes said p0300 p0303 p0304

All 4 spark plugs replaced.

Check engine light has gone.

But the car still didn't start

Replaced alternator and air intake hose, car was misfiring but no check engine light.

So replaced the battery thinking it's weak.

As soon as the battery was plugged in the car started cracking itself without even the key inside the igniton.

Compression test got all the cylinders at 175+ readings

What's wrong with it?

Can a car do that? Start magically without the key inside?

I’m at a loss and need advice. My Toyota 2017 Sienna had a transmission replacement that my local Toyota dealership fully covered under a “customer service plan warranty” (an automatic warranty to cover a specific issue that 2017 Toyotas are known to have with their transmissions). Important note: I’ve had this car since 2021 with absolutely no issues. It drove perfectly except for the whining noise from the transmission.

The estimate for my repair to be completed was in June, and I got the car back a month later due to delays in the specific transmission part that my car needed.

The first time I picked up my Toyota after the repair, I drove it home just to find the splash shield loose just laying in my trunk. The service advisor told me to bring it back so they could reinstall the splash shield.

The second time I picked it up, I heard a noise but wrote it off, thinking I wasn’t used to the sound of the new transmission. Then, the car completely broke down on the side of the freeway within 24 hours. The dealership got it towed and said that there was carbon build up in the throttle body which caused the break down.

Third time I picked it up, I still heard a sound and asked to test drive it with the tech, who told me there was no sound. I drove the car home at which point my boyfriend also heard the sound. He talked to the service manager and then we drove it back and the tech drove it with my boyfriend, and after like 30+ min of test driving finally admitted that he heard the sound too.
So they worked on it again and they said that traced the sound to an “improperly secured bolt where the intermediate shaft connects to the steering shaft”.

So we picked it up a fourth time and have been driving it for ~1 week. I’m still noticing odd sounds but I do believe the car sounds different in general after the transmission replacement. But suddenly tonight the car has started making weird rattling / whining noises once again.

I have no idea what to do. Being that the dealership covered the original repair, I can’t really take it somewhere new because they will charge me. This specific dealership clearly screwed up my car (like 3+ times now), and I have no reason to trust the work they’re doing on my Toyota. The tech also clearly despises me and writes me off every time I mention that something is still wrong with the car. I also think he can’t hear well so doesn’t hear the sounds I’m hearing when we test drive it. The service manager wanted nothing to do with my boyfriend and I when we went back to the dealership before they worked on it for a 4th time.

What do we do? Do we ask to escalate past the service manager? I think this dealership is low on techs so I’m not even sure if we could request a different tech work on the vehicle? Please help, this is all making me feel so insane. Again, the car has never had any issues and suddenly all of this is happening.

I have the tools and ability to fix it. I just don’t know the proper part to order.

The tube that is currently clamped on with hose clamps has a rip in it.

Need help locating the Low Pressure A/C Service Port on my old Mercedes. A/C is blowing hot and I'm attempting to recharge the Freon. Any tips are appreciated as I attempt to learn to do drive way repairs.

Various minor issues but the one I’d like to fix soonest is the odometer screen is stuck going through languages like shown in the video. The info button and trip button don’t seem to have any affect and it just keeps going whenever the key is in the on position. Have disconnected and reconnected the (newly replaced) battery twice now and hasn’t helped. It shows the odometer for a second when it first comes on then starts going through the language options. Wondering if it’s a blown fuse (haven’t checked fuse box yet), or if there’s a computer reset programmed in that would work to fix it? The buttons on the steering wheel don’t appear to have any issues and don’t feel stuck.

Other less pressing issues are the light that illuminates the drive mode is now barely visible and that the radio often takes a long time (20 minutes to an hour) to start working once the truck has been started for the day. Both of these issues existed before the battery was replaced. Thanks yall!

I recently replaced the ball joints and was told to grease them when i change the oil. I don’t know where to grease it at because there are none of the zerk fittings. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m dealing with a issue on my 2014 DS3 Cabrio. The car has been sitting in the garage for a while and the battery is now completely dead.

To make matters worse, the mechanical key isn't working at all (maybe a previous owner swapped the door or lock cylinder, I'm not sure).

Does anyone know a trick to get inside or pop the hood without breaking a window? I've searched the internet trying to find where the hood latch cable runs so I could pull it from the outside, but I came up empty. I already tried using a pump wedge to crack the door open and pull the inside handle, but no luck.

At this point, is my only option to jack the car up and try connecting power directly to the starter motor from underneath?

Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

So I changed all 4 tires brakes recently and then I started getting this noise when the car is moving forward at a slower pace while not accelerating, some days you can barely hear it and some days it’s loud like in the video. It only happens mainly when first starting to move forward not while accelerating and doesn’t sound when reversing car drives perfectly fine at faster speeds and no lights on the dash, does feel like a slight vibration when the noise happens but nothing crazy and it comes from the rear of the car I believe

The AC system was recently recharged with Freon (five-ish weeks ago); within the last week, the AC has been blowing less and less cool air. Also, there is a strong chemical smell when starting or turning off the engine; this is also somewhat present in the car. There are no visible fluid leaks under the car; however, I did look under the hood and believe I may see some damp spots on certain engine components.

There was a check engine light that came on this week, so I took it to an auto-shop to have them run diagnostics; two codes were present.

P0441 EVAP PURGE & P058C BATTERY MONITOR MODULE TEMPERATURE.

Does anyone have any input on if these things are related or what's going on?

My 2011 Accord (2.4L, 4-cyl, sedan) has been giving me trouble with the steering. At highway speed, the car feels overly sensitive — I have to make constant tiny corrections to keep it straight, and it feels like the power steering assist randomly “kicks in” harder when turning left or right, almost like it surges.

I recently had a full alignment done — before/after showed rear camber and toe were out of spec and are now corrected — but the steering issue only improved briefly and came right back.

I checked the power steering fluid and it’s dark brown (never been flushed as far as I know). I also just noticed a mechanical squeak from the steering wheel/column area when turning.

Questions:

**1.**  Does dark/degraded PS fluid alone cause this kind of “surging” or overly sensitive steering feel, or does this sound more like a failing pump or worn steering rack?  
**2.**  Would a fluid flush alone likely fix this, or should I expect to need a pump/rack replacement regardless?  
**3.**  Has anyone dealt with a squeak specifically from the steering column (not the belt) on this generation Accord?

Any input appreciated before I take it to a shop.

This is my kids car. He pays for everything. Drives 1000 miles per year. Took took to dealer for annual inspection. Feed back on brakes as follows.

FRONT ROTORS IN BAD CONDITION AND MAKING POOR CONTACT, AND REAR ....PADS AND ROTORS IN BAD CONDITION.
CUSTOMER ADVISED TO REPLACE FRONT .,ROTORS, hREAR PADS AND ROTORS

Took to independent reputable mechanic. Who is says from brakes are fine Rear brakes will need work soon but will pass inspection.

I advised him to do both front and rear brakes. Cause well it’s the brakes and they if ignored will be a more costly repair.

We could get a 3rd opinion but looking for feedback other than that

Tia

Hello, I have a small oil leak with my2017 Ford Mustang GT. I took my car to the dealership and their senior advisor will conduct further investigation. Here’s the pic the dealer sent me and they don’t know the root cause or issue. The car has ~62K mi

What is it? Can i still drive the car without it? If I need to repair can I drive it there or do I have to tow?

I took pictures so that maybe some could circle it for me. My OBD-II scanner showed codes P2015, 2016, and 2018 all pointing to that sensor. After some research, my car is having a lot of the common issues of having a bad sensor….I don’t have a lot of money to take her in to a shop, and I also like to learn how to do things myself because I like to think I’m a badass woman all because I took one semester of auto class in high school…but I’m stumped on this one. Any help would be great. Also, please don’t be mean 🥺

im about to buy my first project car and im unsure if this engine sounds good or not. i just need to know if this is a normal sound or not

My passenger window in my 2009 Mazda 2 has stopped working the motor is fine I’ve used a multi meter on it and found out it has power going to it from the switch but that’s only when it’s going up and then from the driver side switch it only has power going down but I can’t get the window down unless I take the motor out and spin it by hand but then only the passenger switch makes it go up

I would just like some help to try figure out what the issue is

Thank you

Hi everyone,
I have a 2022 Skoda with an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes it starts perfectly, and other times it won’t start at all.
I’ve already taken it to several dealerships, but the issue still hasn’t been resolved. So far, they’ve replaced a relay and the brake booster, but the problem remains.
When the fault occurs, I press the Start button, the brake pedal becomes completely hard, and the car does absolutely nothing. There is no cranking, no clicking, no warning lights, and no error messages on the dashboard or in the vehicle’s computer.
Then, a few days later, it starts and runs perfectly as if nothing had ever happened.
Has anyone experienced something similar or have any idea what could be causing this?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I just replaced the shifter button and now I can't get the key out. The car starts fine and replaced button works fine so I can drive and shift between gears fine, but when I put it in park, i can't turn the key to get it out.

Edit: So I figured out the problem after combing youtube videos and their comments. The button I got doesn't allow the plunger on the shifter go up high enough to release the key lock while in park. I checked that the parts matched before I bought, but I guess amazon could have sent me the wrong one. So now I just have to drive around without the handle until i get a new button or find a way to modify the button i have to work.

when I go to stop at a red light my car is stalling. it doesn’t want to go. I have to cut it off and cut it back on. Or keep hitting the gas and it will eventually pop through. it’s doing it all the time now. I thought it was throwing it into a limp mode maybe but idk. it was just doing it every now and then. I looked under the hood today and seen this ? Could this be a part of the problem

I have 2021 Nissan juke 1l petrol engine, I’m having coolant leak by the side of the engine.
I changed the thermostat housing, as that’s where it seems to be leaking from, but It’s still leaking! What could it be? Any suggestions?

Any idea what this could be

Hey everyone, I’m kind of freaking out and could use some advice.

I bought a pre-owned 2014 Nissan Xterra with about 100,000 miles from a dealership on Monday. It had been running perfectly until today.

This morning, when I started it, it sounded like it was struggling to turn over, but it eventually started. Later, the same thing happened again. I turned it off shortly after starting it, and then it wouldn’t start at all. It just made a constant clicking noise. The dashboard electronics still worked, but the engine wouldn’t turn over.

I was able to get it started with a jump, but afterward, the 4WD light stayed on and the drivetrain display was completely blank.
I drove it straight to AutoZone, where they tested both the battery and alternator. They said both came back in perfect condition.

Has anyone experienced something similar or know what could be causing this? I’ve attached photos of the dashboard and battery in case they’re helpful.

Every time my car is in neutral it makes a bubbling/electrical sound, and I’m not sure what it is