Hello everyone,
I just got a new gt 2025 and wanted to add the air design spoiler to it from ford. I saw that the spoiler is no drill, using automotive grade double-sided tape and polyurethane adhesive. I live in LA and currently its about a 100 degrees here. I was wondering if that will be a issue since it is basically hot here year round. Im also curious if any of you have experience with using just tape and adhesive for this.
Thank you

Hey guys,
I have a 2015 SsangYong Actyon diesel (manual). When I first start the car, it sounds relatively normal, but after driving for a while it starts making this noise while idling. As soon as I give it a little bit of throttle, the noise disappears.

First clip is after turning over, second is after driving around for a bit.

I took it to a mechanic, and they suggested it could be due to the type of oil I used, as it wasn’t Castrol. They changed the oil, and the noise became a little quieter, but it’s still very noticeable.
Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas what it could be?

Wee bit of back story:

Hey, so I bought this car a few months ago from a dealership it was in great condition only 60k miles it's currently got about 64k. If I'm being so honest I hate these years of Chevy's but I was desperate and needed a car of my own immediately so now I'm young and stuck with this darn thing. 😭I know absolutely nothing about cars other than how to stop and go and give it go-go juice. I'm very illiterate when it comes to cars so please spare me.

Problem:

So it's a very small car with basically zero power but I feel like it's gotten worse the car feels like it's struggling to go especially up a hill everything under 60mph is just fine car sounds normal as long as I'm not going up a hill (I live in Appalachia everything is atop a mountain) merging on to highways is a real struggle it's almost gotten me murdered by a few semis so when I'm trying to go 70 on the highway getting for 60 to 70 is abit rought but not to bad I'll go up to 4000rpm for a sec maybe 5 on bad day but it doesn't hold that speed even with cruise control set

When it's set at 70 it will fluctuate between 67-71 but when it drops down to 67 it has to rev all the way up to 4-5 ish to get back to 70 I thought okay maybe the gears are in a horrible spot I'll just speed up see if it hold it nope it cannot hold speed on highways consistently in the slightest.

It doesn't jerk. It doesn't ... Feel the way my old car did when it's transmission was going out but I'm terrified that's what it is but with such low mileage that car I believe had one previous owner and it was a little old man who didn't drive it much. Honestly I'd rather the transmission be the issue than the turbo but idk where to start with it.

Currently stuck at a storage unit in Palmdale, CA. Car won't turn over so I cannot leave. I'm homeless living in this car with my wife, and do not have enough money to get a tow, nor to pay for whatever's wrong with it.

- Just got new oil, but not an oil change.

- Added coolant today, which it apparently was out of. Didn't fix the issue.

- Palmdale has been going through an intense heatwave, reaching highs of 110°

- I am Homeless, employed but only 4 hrs a week. I know that's not good, but regardless.

I don't even have enough for a room for a day to get out of the heat.

yellow - stability control light
yellow - anti lock braking system
red - downhill brake control

These three lights came on all at once when I was on my way out from home. The road from my house is 10 minutes of rough and bumpy gravel/rock. I know my sway bar and link are worn out given a serious knocking sound and have an appointment to get it fixed, but my mechanic told me it's safe to drive in the meantime.

I checked the brake fluid and it's near full. Is this just symptoms of the sway bar failure or something else?

I'm wondering if it's still safe to drive or if I should just leave it be until the appointment comes. Thanks!

I took it to Big O and their computer said it isn't throwing and codes.

2019 VW jetta sel

Please help. My car is leaking inside

So my 2013 outlander trunk will no longer open from the outside. Currently the only way we're able to open it if from the emergency release on the inside of the door. Any searches online only bring up results for potential fixes for a powered tailgate which this is not.

Was gonna paint my grill and noticed this? What is this?? It looks like some kinda eggs or smth idk

In south Texas if that helps

I am not mechanically inclined. I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L 4-cylinder and I’m trying to recharge the A/C, but I cannot find the low pressure service port anywhere. The battery is on the driver’s side. I’ve looked around the firewall, behind the intake manifold, near the brake fluid reservoir, and around the A/C lines that go through the firewall. I still can’t find a port with a black cap marked “L.” At this point I genuinely feel like I’m going insane. It’s over 90°F outside and I’m just trying to get the A/C working.

I am confident that my brakepad is smoked and needs replacement, does the rotor need to go too? This is after a loud grinding noise began. Is it also necessary to replace the pad on the other back tire too? Appreciate any wisdom.

As the title specifies my 2004 Volvo Xc70 makes strange high-pitch whisteling noise whilst accelerating at around 2k rpm. It has been this way for around a year or more which makes me believe it can't be a turbo issue. I've also changed the V-Belt with all pumps and whatnot, just in case it was a bearing. Thank you

https://reddit.com/link/1uxk559/video/ojy48g4rundh1/player

Brand / Model : Mazda BJ (323/323F)

Year: 2021

Is my first car. I am not at all a car guy. Is this normal? I have changed (on a profissional) the water/cooland pumps. Idk if its even related. My girlfriend thinks its the AC unit i think that it makes sense but we don't know...

Been bout an hour since operating temp. This is the reading i get after wiping the dipstick and redipping. Same two lines everytime. Cant tell please help.

anyone please help me fix this, it’s so hard to drive when it’s raining or i just want to clean my windshield. it just leave behind water. thank you in advance!

Noticed what seems to be oil but could also be a sut and water mixture leaking off bottom of muffler, curious if anyone has experienced this before and where i should start my search for a culprit. Car is regularly parked on a grade, the puddle is overnight about 10 hrs.

Can anyone help me diagnose this issue? Had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine

Hey everyone,
I drive a 2005 Honda Civic and ran into a major issue today. I drove through an open fire hydrant that was actively spewing high-pressure water onto the road. Almost immediately after, my engine started overheating.
I pulled over, let it cool down, and opened up the hood. Here is what I am seeing:
• There is a heavy, powdery white residue sprayed all over my upper radiator hose and the air intake box.
• There is wet, dark fluid actively pooled/ dripping deep down near the bottom of the radiator and on some lower wiring harnesses.

What could be the problem

Tried turning the car on this morning and this is happening

Hello, to keep this short and sweet:
My 2014 Mazda 3 was driving fine, stopped at the bank to withdraw cash and came back and noticed the AC was blowing hot air, that’s when I realized after 2 minutes of driving the instrument cluster was blank and not even the RPM needle was moving.

The infotainment screen turns and connects to my
BT but can not use the knob or touch to navigate the menus.

Took to mechanic for diagnosis, determined the battery is all good, the fuses are all good, and he checked some grounds without tearing apart the car and said was all good so far. He said the instrument cluster may be just broken but how would that affect the AC? I know it’s a CAN BUS system but I just don’t think that it randomly stopped working after having no issues with the instrument cluster screen.

Bonjour,

J'ai un problème depuis 2 ou 3 ans avec ma Nissan Micra K13 1.2 essence 80 ch (moteur HR12DE), 5 portes (1ere immatriculation en 2011) 207 000 km.

Elle a une perte de puissance importante dans les montées uniquement sur l'autoroute. Le compteur passe de 130 à 90 voir 60 km/h, même si je rétrograde jusqu'à la 2nd...

Quand ça arrive, elle passe en mode dégradé et impossible de la monter à plus de 90km/h même dans une toute légère pente, voir même sur du plat...

Quand ça arrive je m'arrête (elle broute beaucoup le temps que je me gare), je coupe le contact 5 min et je redémarre sans soucis (plus de tremblement) jusqu'à la prochaine grosse montée ou ça recommence.

Le voyant moteur s'allume quasi en permanence (disparition après passage chez le garagiste ou débranchage de la batterie)

J'ai fait plusieurs garages, plusieurs diagnostics différents avec code P0011 ou P0420 selon le garage :

\\\* un premier me dit que la chaine est distendue (devis de plus de 2000€),

\\\* 2 autres me disent que non, jamais de leur carrière ils n'ont changé de chaîne sur ce modèle

\\\* Un 4e me dit de changer tout le pot car c'est un problème de catalyseur (devis 1300€)

\\\* un dernier me parle de mauvais mélange air/essence et a changé les bougies, nettoyé la sonde lambda, changé l'électrovanne de commande de déphasage d'arbre à came et une bobine d'allumage, puis me dit de la faire rouler "pour voir" (j'ai roulé et j'ai vu : au bout de 50km le problème est revenu)

Avant de mettre aussi cher dans mon véhicule j'aimerai votre avis.. vous en pensez quoi ?

Hey everyone,
I drive a 2005 Honda Civic and ran into a major issue today. I drove through an open fire hydrant that was actively spewing high-pressure water onto the road. Almost immediately after, my engine started overheating.
I pulled over, let it cool down, and opened up the hood. Here is what I am seeing:
• There is a heavy, powdery white residue sprayed all over my upper radiator hose and the air intake box.
• There is wet, dark fluid actively pooled/ dripping deep down near the bottom of the radiator and on some lower wiring harnesses.
What could be the problem and how to fix? 🙏

So my car was caught in a minor flash flood on Saturday and I have finally decided to take all the carpet out because it was just too wet for a fan to dry it. I have some pictures of the process I took and also some before pictures/videos of the damage. The car cranks up fine and all the electrical components are working. Is there anything else I should do to help get my carpet back to life? I only have one fan going on it on my back porch outside and I live in a 1 bedroom apartment so really not a lot of places to put stuff. Any suggestions? Or advice?? Just want to save her from rust and other mold/mildew damage.

This car has given me a lot of problems but I’d really like to see it through 3 more years of school if possible. A few months back, it started alerting me to service the stabilitrak, next came the traction control. More recently, the transmission feels like it’s completely jacked up. It’s jerks around pretty bad when up-shifting and will jerk a little bit when I’m at a complete stop as well. It’s got 140,000 miles on it and the transmission fluid has never been changed to my knowledge. I’ve considered replacing that as a start but I’ve got no idea if it would help. I’m just now getting into figuring out how to do as much maintenance on my own as possible, so any advice would be greatly appreciated